Tri-Track robot chassis is based on Sublime 100mm wheel base track system. This design incorporates dual servo motors that are mounted above the chassis. This design allows for mounting a robot body or arm between the tracks. The battery pack and electronics will be moved as the design progresses.
Frame has been significantly strengthened to accommodate for the added stresses and to increase weight capacity.

UPDATE

12-20-11
Added platform base for mounting robot body or arm.

12/21-11 Added additional files

1-08-12
Rendered BaseLeft and BaseRight in two pieces, this enables them to be printed on a MakerBot. The two piece files are: BaseleftP1, BaseleftP2, BaserightP1, BaserightP2

There are errors in the Tri-Track Frame file. This fils is still printable. We are working on correcting errors.

1-12-12
Redesigned and added New Tri-Track Frame for Solid Axle construction. File Name: Tri-Track Frame For Solid Axle v1

Short video of Tri-Track in motion:

youtu.be/KcNyt-GK2NU

My plan is to build a two armed robot around this motorized platform.

CREDIT

Original Track design by Olalla
See thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Servo Mount is by Hoeken. thingiverse.com/thing:5165 This is printed horizontally for strength.

A few people have wanted to import the parts into OPENscad but the files were not manifolded. Netfabb would not repair them correctly.

I have gone through all the parts and corrected the meshes. Afterwards I ran them through Meshlab and then through Netfabb and then back through Meshlab again.

I then made sheets for a Mendel size printer. (less than 200 x 200)
I have provided the Blend file with the three sheets laid out in case you would like to rearrange them or remove any of the parts.

I would make sheets for a makerbot but I don't really understand how to stack things up for printing without them becoming one piece? (All parts will fit individually)

The zip file contains all the parts for the Lathe and transmission individually.

Prodos is the second prototype robot from Project Biped (http://www.projectbiped.com) whose goal is to create an open source 3D printed dynamically balancing walking robot. Prodos was designed to demonstrate how to coordinate simple limb chain actuation using a microcontroller. It has 8 degrees of freedom (joints) and can perform a simple walking action. The servos used were selected for economy and aren't powerful enough to bear the robot's own weight, so Prodos must be externally supported while it is executing its walking action. See a video of Prodos in action at projectbiped.com/prototypes/prodos/walking-analysis

Prodos has the following features:
*Uses an Arduino Duemilanove microcontroller
*User interface via OLED display and 4 button panel
*8 degrees of freedom
*Detailed assembly instructions

This is a complete two-leg walking mechanism of Theo Jansen.

To build a complete walking Robot, you'll need this Thing 4 Times and some Construction for the two Motors and Control of them.

If you are missing steps in the X or Y on your Prusa, it could be because the belt is getting caught between the fender washer and the bearing. The best solution is a belt guide such as GregFrost's (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8574), but those require you to disassemble your printer before you can install them.

These belt bushings aren't quite as good, but the simply slip over the rod, so you can install them just by loosening a couple nuts. They fill the gap between the bearing and the washer, and are a bit slipperier, so they should help reduce binding.

Inspired by a design by Wilson (http://www.thingiverse.com/wilson).

Printable version of blddk's great idea.

A collection of standard Lego bricks, plates, bricks with holes, an axle (not splined) and 2 wheels.

27 files enough for a structure or a vehicle or ... Well, Lego has always wanted you to be creative ....

Build something cool & upload image.

Enjoy !!

While talking to Zach I got inspired to model lego bricks in order to create custom bricks - the ones you always wanted but thought you never could get. Well now you can!

Of course it does not snap in place as nicely as original lego bricks but it should be good enough to create the custom lego piece you always wanted.

This year instead of sending Christmas Cards I decided to use my Makerbot to make something unique for my friends. And naturally the project took on a life of its own.

The final result was 20 Lego Men at 4x the normal size. Each inscribed with a holiday greeting.

Before dispatching them off to the world, I decided it would be nice to take all 20 brothers on a photographic tour of Kansas City.

picasaweb.google.com/skimbal/LegoMenOfKansasCity?feat=directlink

Happy Holidays to all of the Thingiverse Community.

-Michael Curry

How do you make a great idea like Makerbot-printable (clothing) buttons better?

Why, make them Lego Compatible! Naturally.

Update 2009/10/04: In the design files, the knobs are 5mm in diameter. I remeasured my source Lego disc after getting back some Shapeways test prints and the Lego knobs are actually closer to 4.8mm in diameter. I lucked out with my MakerBot-printed buttons; shrinkage brought them down to about 4.9mm in diameter. The Shapeways printed versions are more accurate, 5.00mm diameter, +/- 0.05mm. There's enough give in the plastic materials for them to still fit 'regulation size' lego blocks, but the metal one was simply too wide a diameter.

Update 2009/11/07: I've been playing around with OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/) and came up with the attached DiscButton_20091107 variation. I even added bottom "sockets" to this variation. It's almost too easy when it's all code!

Disclaimer: LEGO is a trademark of the LEGO Group and these explorations are in no way associated with LEGO Group. Heck! The files are CC-licensed; nothing to stop them embracing and extending it themselves if they so chose! ;-)

it's a giant spider to battle the preying mantisasaur. Saur fight!

This is an alternative extruder hot-end design for the makerbot, though it may work for other 3d printers as well.

The big advantage is that it does not require an insulator (usually PTFE or PEEK), which causes problems for some (or perhaps many). Instead, a stack of washers and nuts is used as a heatsink to reduce the temperature.

It worked really, really well for me, no more stalled extruders, stuck filaments, half-way prints. It heats up rapidly less than 1 minute from 25 to 220 degC), and I haven't had any problems with it (yet..).
I've only printed ABS so far, so I have no idea if it will work with other materials.

My original version used an aluminum heatsink (bottom image), but I thought that might be a bit hard for others to duplicate, so I built this one. Works just as well, just looks a little less fancy.

You'll need a small fan, stainless steel M6 bolt as well as a stack of M6 nuts and 25mm M6 fender washers in addition to asome components from a standard makerbot extruder.

caruKlip is a fork of the Klimentkip firmware for RAMPS, which is in turn a fork of Tonokip.

I rewrote the G1 algorithm and added configurable acceleration and deceleration.


You can see my Prusa Mendel printing at 184 mm/s with no loss in quality, no vibrations and no machine stress here: youtube.com/watch?v=IsGtEQwLLPc

NEW: you can see the x-axis moving at 400 mm/s in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=axxVYoQkKD0

NEW(2): and here's a Huxley with both axis moving at 400 mm/s: youtube.com/watch?v=gEpq4SxCbuc

NEW(3): AND HERE THE X AXIS MOVES AT 750 mm/s!!! youtube.com/watch?v=Au_9ns1-fHU

NEW(4): This is my best result so far. I called it "crazy prusa". See why: youtube.com/watch?v=07sBUrnVmuo

The first image in this page shows a Prusa Mendel frame vertex while being printed at 130 mm/s.

The image with gears, on the bottom 145 mm/s, then 155, then the top 2 at 165. As you can see, you couldn't tell the difference. The blobs are caused by CPU/serial lags (it was under heavy load for other things). Either leaving the CPU with less work or SD printing totally avoids that.

The 2 gears printed in the crazy prusa video at 180 mm/s, with 290 mm/s travel speed, are of the same quality.


Many people ask what is the difference between caruKlip and Klimentkip. At the time of this writing, there is no difference at all. In the future, caruKlip may contain test features, while Klimentkip would be the stable fork.

Me and Kliment are the active developers currently. Thanks to Kliment, with this firmware you can preload all the gcode on SD card directly from repsnapper, and then print from SD with no worries for CPU lags.
There are also other developers and some users who contribute in many ways this project. Thank you all!

I made this derivative from JJShortcut's files ( thingiverse.com/thing:2415 ), but the original gears were giving me some grief, so after the second micro-servo broke I redesigned the thing with involuted gears. Operation should be much smoother now.

A gripper compatible with a mini servo I used the Topline ES-05 JR, I milled it with a 3-axis cnc machine but its also printable. Made of 4mm hardboard.

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=7CUNx4kPw6w

For more pictures and info:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/04/19/my-mini-servo-grippers-and-completed-robotic-arm/

I've been seeing the cable chains for reprap and cupcake, and thought I would share my mill-able file.

Cable chain for 3d milling, one link complete.

This is the skeleton for a basic pentapodal robot.

I'm currently using cheap HS-311 servos for all joints. These don't really provide enough torque for the up/down shoulder joints as currently designed. I plan to shorten those members, and get more powerful servos to support them.

This is the first of my flatpack action figures. I've made lots of prototypes so that the tolerances are really tight and they basically snap together. If by chance you force it to much and it breaks, it is easy to fix it with a drop of superglue.

The MK-1 is a monkey on a mission to defeat the evil kitten empire.

With cymbals to clang and a knife and fork to eat with, the MK-1 is accessorized to make some noise and eat some dinner.

A prehensile tail means that it can carry the accessories in it's tail too!

One very special thing about this monkey is that you can hold it up to the light to see the skull inside it's head.

These are not for small children because they have small parts that are rather sharp.

If you have an iPhone and watch long movies (usually from ripped DVDs) leaving the phone in the dock doesn't cut it, the iPhone needs to be horizontal. I usually have CNN, ABC or a few hours of news on my phone and like to leave it on my desk while I work but you can't watch these in the dock since it's turned the wrong way. Long plane / train trips with a tray made me want to make this too.

So - here's an iPhone stand I made, you can take the file to a place like TechShop in SF or anywhere there's a high powered laser that can cut acrylic. Believe it or not there are lots of these lasers in most cities, definitely at a lot of campuses now too. Universal and Epilog are usually the only two brands you'll come across.

I figured this is a good beginner project for getting starting with your own little "FabLab" like project. Variations on this model will work with other phones too, all depends on the size and dimensions of your phone of course.

I made this stand as a snap-to-together / press fit and it can be reproduced cheap, if anyone designs a better version send me the file and I'll post it up here on MAKE. I put a hole on each leg so the USB cable could fit through, it seems to be a better way to hold the sync/power cable.

Here we go... Get some acrylic, I bought a sheet of 12" x 12" clear acrylic (1/8th" thickness). You can get these sheets at local plastic stores in most big cities or online - Link (McMaster-Carr $6.48). Cast (not extruded) tends to be more scratch resistant and better for projects like this.

Download this file, it's an Adobe Illustrator file (black and white vector line art, included are other formats if needed) - Link (ZIP with AI//CDR/DXF). If you want to make a lot of these just copy and past the 2 shapes over and over.