I have been in the pursuit of getting the best print that I can, and as I learned skeinforge and learned what worked on my bot I noticed a wave coming from the wobbling of the z-axis rods. This thing will isolate the z platform from the wobbling of the rods and relies on two precision rods and bushings to eliminate the wobble.

Note: This will not work with the x-axis endstops, since they would be in the same place.

Here's a link to a video of it working: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/4500694961/

Incase I screwed up the part inventories, here are the links to the rods and bushings: Can't go wrong with rods for $6 each!
servocity.com/html/1_4__precision_shafting.html
servocity.com/html/bronze_bushings.html

Wilson was kind enough to flip my ascii stl files to binary, I didn't have a problem with ascii and forgot to check the stl submenu when exporting. Here are his links:
thingiverse.com/thing:2536
thingiverse.com/thing:2535
thingiverse.com/thing:2534
thingiverse.com/thing:2533
thingiverse.com/thing:2532

Torleif and I are claiming parallel simultaneous innovation just for the similarity of our two designs even though they have different intents. link: thingiverse.com/thing:2149

Have you ever wanted a Gothic Cathedral of your very own?

Are you intimidated by the centuries long construction schedule, and the punishing job requirements of being a European Bishop during the Dark Ages?

Then We Have a Thing For YOU!

The Gothic Cathedral Play Set!

This is a somewhat improved Sarrus linkage based Z axis. It is much stiffer than the first one. I also have added a threaded rod drive. For more details, see objects.reprap.org/wiki/Sarrus_Z02

I saw Makerblock's topic about the ball joint, I thought openSCAD was suitable and adviced it, but thought I'd give it a try myself. This is a very quick hack, but it can be easily modified since it's just code.

In OpenSCAD, you can choose to see an animation of the ball joint in action. Do this by uncommeting "demo();" and commenting "print();". To print it, choose the latter, press F6 and export to STL.

For a very cool implementation of this 'part' used in a camera mount, see thingiverse.com/thing:2631

The ultimate spare parts kit to keep your extruder printing day in and day out. Enough parts to make a complete heater barrel assembly, or replace replace other key components.

DXFs of the Cupcake CNC y-stage and z platform modified for cutting on a CNC router with a 3mm bit. Slots have been resized for 5.2mm plywood.

A couple of notes:

1) Holes for the magnets are round, but should still be a tight fit on the corners of the magnets. I don't think this will be enough, so I'd recommend using epoxy glue or something similar to fill the gaps.
2) Like the x-rib, instead of a series of slots for timing belt engagement the y-rib has a recess for permanently gluing a short length of timing belt. I've included a STL file for this part - if anyone thinks of a better way of doing this, please let me know.
3) some of these parts are small and delicate, so take care while cutting. I haven't tried it yet, but I will as soon as I have the chance.

Related things:
Routerized Cupcake body panels: thingiverse.com/thing:1864
Routerized Cupcake X stage: thingiverse.com/thing:1881

Hotproceed sells the platform heater of this type.
It is a plan of March that I sell this heater.

Lets be clear this is a laser man bracelet. Not a bracelet. However women can wear this if they choose. It still is a laser man bracelet.

I was trying for masonite chain link\\\\\\\'s however I am stuck on making a matching sprocket. You can see from the photo that it goes.

2 Holes, 3 Holes, 2 Holes.... This is a funky hard to make sprocket.

For now its a laser man bracelet.

Here's my first attempt at 3-d modeling. The Banana slug is one of the most unusual creatures living in the Pacific Northwest (U.S.). Since my transplant here a decade ago, I am still amazed at how big they can get - up to 8 inches. I've made ceramic slugs and crocheted slugs, so a plastic one seemed like fun.

Body DXFs of the cupcake modified for cutting on a CNC router with a 3mm (or maybe a 1/8") bit. I also resized the slots for 5.2mm thick plywood, since that's what seems to be available at hardware stores around here.

I haven't tried these yet, but I will as soon as my friend with the CNC router finds the time.

Related things:
Routerized Cupcake X stage: thingiverse.com/thing:1881
Routerized Cupcake Y and Z stages: thingiverse.com/thing:1882

CrashSpace is a Los Angeles Hackerspace (Culver City actually). This is a version of the logo generated by tracing the b&w image in sketchup and extruding, then running it through SkeinForge (SkeinFox actually) to create the GCode for printing on my Makerbot (Goldbot).

The Gcode is set to print at 245degC with a raft, because thats what works on Goldbot. If you want something different, run it through skeinforge again.

Can this shape tile the plane? It is not easy to guess by just putting the shapes together. With a little thought however there is an easy proof. It can't. How far can it go though? How many rings of tiles can you build around a first one. This is called the Heesch number of the tiling.

The Reuleax triangle has puzzled mathematicians from the dawn of time, I you print this out, you too can drill square holes in the ground with ease, this is only a sketchup file, so feel free to alter and morph the bit to your sizes and expectations!

I WANNA SEE SOME VIDEOS PEOPLE!!!

The waxuum is sort of a reverse-extruder. The idea is that a heated hollow needle is used to remove material from a block of wax in a controlled manner, analogous to conventional machining using an endmill. A vacuum pump* pulls the molten wax through the needle, after which it is deposited in a reservoir where it can be recycled. The wax part can then be used directly, or more likely it can be used as a pattern for a mold. Below is a basic overview of how the process might work in a well-developed system. See video of a simple test at youtube.com/watch?v=rnKD9oIzcnM .

1. A heated basin is filled with wax, which is then allowed to cool. This big block of wax forms the working material for our little setup.

2. A waxuum mounted where the extruder usually goes on your 3D printer carves a master pattern (including containment walls) out of the wax block.

3. Elastomer resin is poured directly into negative pattern in the wax block.

4. When the elastomer cures, it is peeled off the wax master and used as a mold to crank out large numbers of parts.

5. The wax master is remelted within its heated basin. The removed wax in the reservoir is added back. The basin is cooled, and the wax is ready to use again for a new master pattern.

--------------------
ADVANTAGES

1. The wax is melted instead of cut, so high forces are not required at the tool-tip. The low force requirement means that the XYZ positioner can be much more flexible (and cheaper and easier-to-make) than is normally required for conventional machining. Unlike conventional machining, there is no need for chip removal.

2. In many cases the surface finish on parts is better than that on filament-extruded parts, due to the smoothing effect of the hot needle moving over the wax. There are also fewer warping, delamination, and anisotropy problems.

3. You get a mold instead of a part: casting from a pattern can produce parts at a much faster rate than printing. You also have a greater choice of materials (plastics, metals, ceramics, and wax can all be cast in silicone molds).

---------------------
DISADVANTAGES

1. You get a mold instead of a part: there are several additional steps and materials, including the manual work of pouring resins. Sometimes you really want to just print your parts and go.

2. Limited geometry: unless you make multi-part molds with cores and such, you are limited to relatively simple geometry. Hollow and concave parts are difficult.

3. The waxuum is relatively unproven compared to the many filament extruder designs currently in use.

------------------------
RESULTS

The test showed it was feasible to use a tool of this design to make wax patterns. The most important thing to consider seems to be optimizing heat transfer from the needle to the wax, while minimizing heat loss due to movement of cool air through the needle. The thin-walled brass tubing is just barely acceptable for this purpose. The next version will use a material with higher thermal conductivity, such as thick-walled copper tubing. The heater should probably be located outside of the case. Possibly two heaters should be used - one for the needle and one to keep the wax molten inside the case.

------------------------
*Update March 6 2010: See this cool article on converting an aquarium pump to a vacuum pump garage-shoppe.com/wordpress/?p=109

This shape is a world record holder you need 20 tiles before it will tile the plane periodically (10 up to symmetry). It fits together in an amazing variety of ways but can easily block itself. Making it a fun puzzle.

The tiles were found by a massive computer search by Joseph Myers. Look for this and other puzzling shapes at: srcf.ucam.org/~jsm28/tiling/

The idea to make physical tiles was originally from Chaim Goodman-Strauss: mathbun.com

12 5-sided polygons that fit together to form a dodecahedron. This is probably the smallest buckyball that you could realistically make. There a solid version, and a "wired version", which is way way easier to put together. This is to mess with you geometry-lovers out there.

Glasses inspired by "flat glasses" Drawn on techsoft and laser cut from 3mm light gathering florescent acrylic then bent on a strip heater.

This wasn't designed by me. I just converted it to STLs for people to use
blog.reprap.org/2010/02/mini-me.html

Also, I dont know if it has been tested at all yet.

I got all the Reprappable part(I think) converted, and the sheet parts are there too. I didn't convert the bolts and i have no idea how many you will need. :) Have fun

--Added full model in stl form.

a little rotot in stl format... ;-)

This is an scad file that will generate connectors for geodesic domes, hopefully.

I lost the little SD chip shaped plastic slug that fits in my laptop, so I modeled and printed another. The only physical feature this SD dummy doesn't have is the little sliding write protect lock. I designed the piece so that it will always be considered write protected.

For more stuff about things, check out my blog at makerblock.com

This is the first draft of a mostly printable linear bearing and a printable linear rail setup. I make no guarantees to prinability, usability, or sanity.
I don't have a 3D printer, so I can't test it myself. If you try it, let me know! If you can't make it work, let me know! I'd like to make this work, so if you'd like to help me, help me help you help me help us all by telling me about it here or on the reprap forums. The non-printable part is the recirculating 6mm balls. Note on where to get them below.

This design is intended to use non-printed 6mm balls as rolling elements. If you don't have any, you should be able to pick up more than you will ever need at a sporting goods store under the name of Airsoft BBs. This draft has no race, if it turns out it needs one tell me and I will whip it up.

There are two sets of stl, the alt.stl files are in ASCII format and the others are in binary.
NOTE: The stls are scaled so 1 unit = 1 meter. You will probably need to scale them up to be able to print.

Using the same model from the full body, i made some modifications and printed just the head for better detail. Enjoy:)

Four of these feet will support a Mendel deposition bed. The semi-circular recess rests on the Y rails, so no bearings are required. The bed can be levelled by tightening the 2 Nylok nuts on each foot, thus compressing the spring structure.

The heads of the two M4x40 machine screws are recessed into the attachment bracket, and three small holes are provided. These nicely take No.4 3/8" to 1/2" countersunk or pan-head woodscrews - the SCAD file has an option for it. The M4 screws are held captive by two nuts which are recessed, so no washers needed there.

This allows just one layer of bed to provide an adjustable flat upper surface for deposition.

this is a VAWT I made at the local fablab(protospace)
according to the labmanager the twist in the blades removes the pulsating noise
the normal darieus makes.
it`s made in openscad but the code is a little messy.(apart from openscad I only wrote some hello world like things for python tutorial exercises)

We needed a shower drain with a height of about 3 cm and a vertical outlet channel which was difficult to find so I decided to print one.

Model for a small x-wing fighter from Star Wars. Currently does not have the laser things at the end of the wings.

It uses some of the 3mm filament as a connecting 'dowel' for the two pieces.

Modeled in Vector works.

As soon as I have tie this weekend I will print this and post a picture. Also I will make the laser things for the wingtips. After that I will post the source files.