This thing is used to grip the Nerf barrel extension port on some Nerf guns and couple it to a piece of 1/2in PVC. The scad file in the src.zip file allows you to change the diameter of the pipe if you find your local supplier is of a slightly different size.

With the release of the new line of nerf guns the older models have gone on clearance at many retailers. The pictured Rayven was more than 2/3 off MSRP at walmart. Although they may no longer be up to snuff compared to the newer models stock they contain at least their cost in parts for modding.

Since this is a flywheel based blaster it is trivial to run it at higher RPM for more range. Unfortunately this make it considerably less accurate. As per common wisdom one can theoretically compensate for this with a longer barrel. Nerf does not sell barrel extension pieces separately so this is a quick trial piece.

Quick unscientific testing shows that this gets ranges better then my newer Nerf guns and has comparable accuracy. It does seem to also make the gun more picky about which darts it will fire. Of course I plan to trim the barrel extension and paint it orange to comply with local laws but it's picture this way for maximum ridiculousness.


The src.zip file contains the scad script for generating the piece, the dxf file that corresponds to the locking mechanism, and the sketchup file used to draw the dxf.

Update 1/13/12
I added a modified version for use with a thinner walled pipe. The older version uses pvc with an outer diameter of 21.5mm and the newer one uses a tube with an OD of 18.5 mm. This allows it to nest further into the barrel and fire warped darts better since it reduces the internal ridge. The newer tube I'm using is 1/2in steel electrical conduit.

Demo video: youtu.be/op9gaBjJMwA
Cheap little camera won't let me turn off the time stamp.

Since my particular 808 camera records at an upward angle I mounted it upside down on top of the gun.

See the 808 thing in the history for more details of 808 cameras.

The new line of Nerf guns come out recently and I've been upgrading my arsenal. I didn't have any of the clip style ones previously since I like having a place to put collected darts. I note the existence of an older “Flip Clip” accessory for Nerf guns which doesn't seem to be really available anymore. This is my answer to that allowing to use a clip style Nerf gun while still collecting used darts.

Note that I'm using the “ring solid.stl” version. The other ones are included mostly for completeness and have not been printed.

I'm not sure if this will fit with all Nerf blasters. It's pictured with a Stryfe.

This is a ratchet action style semi auto rubber band gun. It's designed for 6 bands but they tend to tangle on each other when packed that close. In my testing it works best with 3 or 4 shots. Started as a project for a side arm in the ongoing nerf war.

Demo Video: youtu.be/9XTkK8GNwKM

Print area on my setup isn't sufficient to print the barrel. Stronger/cheaper/easier to just dremel some slots into a wooden dowel then try and make it multi section. The two wooden rods need to be squeezing together a bit tight for the ratchet to work.

This is a rough 1/8 scale model of my teams entry into Punkin Chunkin ( punkinchunkin.com/ ). There is a good deal of tuning which goes into a trebuchet and it's difficult to work it all out full scale since we only get some many shots between repairs. This model is to facilitate tuning work. Also just for fun. We enter purely for fun and our budget it way on the low side to be competitive but that's no excuse not to tune up.

At full scale the treb is 12 feet tall to the pivot and uses 1000lbs (1400 with add-ons) counterweight to throw 8 lbs pumpkins. Simulations show a maximum range of a bit over 800 feet. Our best throws are only a bit over 400.

At 1/8 scale it's about 18 in tall to the pivot, uses 2lbs counterweight and throws .25 ounce marbles. The first few days of throwing show a range of about 55 feet. The simulated max range is about 100 feet so there is tuning to do.

Give enough time I would like to add a more efficient whipper style arm to the model/machine.

I was in need of a brain slug to improve the classiness of my hard hat for this upcoming weekend. Originally I just indeed to clean up the geometry in 7777773's original. I was having a good day so I just rolled with a redraw. Then it was now and then I don't know what happened.

I made it an easy print by keeping the geometry solid and the bottom flat. The antennae are intended to be bent with a heat gun so I could make them easier to print. Don't forget to bend them; they look awful straight up.

You can adjust the polygon count in the scad ($fn) if you desire more or less.

This is a 2 disk magazine for the Nerf Vortex Proton disk gun. That is ordinarily a single disk gun so these allows for 3 shots (2 in the hopper and one loaded) between loading.

Video: youtube.com/watch?v=K0igyOdNCVE

You can see it jam a little in the video which seems to be caused by the safety systems Nerf builds into these things. It acts up about the same without the hopper attached. The next step would be to remove these safety mechanisms which is covered by other people online. Larger clips can be generated from the scad file if you desire.

I've added a 5 disk version which I have not had time to test fit. I've never printed that particular file.

All of the trademark terms are property of Hasbro and this is not affiliated with them

From the list of things I can't believe I didn't make myself sooner.

Screw holes are small all around since I didn't know exact sizes when I was cadding. All holes will need a quick drill through. ATX supplies are threaded at #6-32.

I've been convinced by some friends to pull one of my old miniatures armies out of retirement. In the interest of avoiding intellectual property snafu's we'll call it a space zombie army. The game has changed a lot since I last played and I now need to update my supply of models. Ever since the company that makes the game got too DMCA happy on the fan who posted a tank here, they are blacklisted from companies I can purchase from; it's all custom models from here on out. Anybody who would use this can no doubt recognize the game and army I'll be playing without me using any trademarked/copyrighted terms.

This is the first model in the series. Eventually I'll be making a cannon to sit where the pilot is in this model to play this as a related model in game. After that I'll be scaling this up to make the larger aircraft in the army. Everything will be based on this model and I thought I would share it now in case any one better at CADing cannons wants to jump on board. Here's to hoping...

Obligatory: This model uses no non original artwork. No part of the posted STL files is property of any one other then me. This model is not actually intended to resemble the official models closely. The design of this model is based on asking 3rd party judges at the local tournaments what it would take to have a proxy they would accept. This model is not even intended to comply with the official game rules other then through the proxy rules at local 3rd party tournaments. Please don't DMCA me.

In honor of the Borderlands 2 launch it was requested I make this.

I don't see any one else needing to make this but in the spirit of open source hardware I'm documenting the replacement part.

A friend of mine is building a lasersaur (http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/ ). The original design for this bracket calls for 2 sheets of 6mm plastic to be laser cut. Being in the US we used what was readily available and approximated the thickness with 5 sheets of 1/8 in. Everywhere else in the design the approximated thickness plates worked out fine. At this location there was enough inaccuracy in the thickness that the sleeve for the pulleys bearings torqued out a bit under the belt tension. With the pulley sitting at an angle to the belts path the teeth were catching causing uneven feeding and the wobbly path pictured.

This pieces is a replacement for the original bracket. It fits very tight and well need to be press fit while using a heatgun to get the bearing sleeve in.

This is a mounting bracket to hold a piece of sheet plastic to a metal surface (e.g. a refrigerator) for use as a whiteboard. I’m using a piece of sheet acrylic I had formally been using as a cutting surface when cleaning up prints. I spray painted the backside white but I’m not convinced that helps when attached to a white fridge. If you do so, do not use more than one coat as many spray paints will peel off acrylic when the second coat is applied.

The openscad file should be parametric enough to easily change for whatever size magnets or plastic thickness you have available. I used 6mm x 1.5mm disc magnets (dia x thickness) and plastic about 2.3mm thick. The number of sockets is overkill for the strength of magnets I’m using. The magnets are all press fit in and no adhesive was used anywhere.

Support structures are included in the stl which make it suitable for printing in this orientation on my printer. They all pop off easily with a set of pliers.

There are a lot of other quads here on Thingiverse. I started by building the Pl2Q Hugin by Swepet but I routinely was crashing it hard enough to break its arms. I decided to migrate to something a bit more able to bounce without breaking and be faster to fix even when I do crash. The electronic setup of this is the one I used from my Hugin and is heavily based on Swepet’s work on the PL1Q Vampire. The frame of this is a continuation of Octovir’s work on his carbon fiber arrow shaft based frame for an Arducopter. Unlike many of the quads here I can say exactly what parts I purchased and used in this if other wants to make one from scratch.

I have had a few catastrophic crashes and even in the worst cash I’ve had the quad repaired faster than I’ve had the battery recharged. This even includes print time of new parts when required. Originally I wanted to go with aluminum arms but sourcing 5/16 aluminum rod locally wasn’t possible. I used left over tool steel rods from building my printer and even with that weight it flew fine. Those were a bit on the over kill side so now that I’ve toned down my rate of hard landings I’ve switched to all wooden dowels. It only takes ~5mins to replace a broken arm now and ~30mins to reprint and replace a leg both of which cost less than $.25.

The frame is considerably more rugged then I thought it would be. In my worst crash I nailed a tree at full speed 3 stories up and it tumbled straight down. I saw that it landed right side up so I just gave it a go on taking off again and it was still able to fly around. I ended up breaking 2 wooden pieces, a leg and mangled a prop bad enough it needed replacing. Even with all that damage and the battery dangling loose below it, it could fly. On the limping, wobbly side but still… Even that was fixed before the battery was charged. I tried to make the legs shock absorbing and I can tell you that subjectively it can crash fairly hard and still be undamaged.


Update 7/23/12:
I added a new version of the legs. When I originally tested them I made them such that in hard crashes the leg and the wooden arm would break at about a 1:1 rate and then backed a bit off the leg strength since I would rather replace the legs. I decided to make the legs a bit stronger now since I haven’t broken an arm in a while but I still go through a number of legs.

Update 10/24/12:
Added my camera mount. It's based on the 808 camera mount by kenwshmt; which is now in the ancestors list. STL added in the top level of the easy to print (support-less but will need glue to assemble) print I used. Glue-less and separate pieces STL's are included with the scad in the zip. You will need the STL from kenwshmt's thing to render the scad directly.

The camera I'm using was purchased from the supplier in kenwshmt's thing. It's only a $10 camera and has quality that's representative of that. That is to say that it's perfectly adequate for a flight recorder but don't plan on any nice photography.

Sample video from on board camera: youtu.be/sxnny5DqIak

I made the triforce necklace and gave it to my girlfriend and she requested additional choices. This is the first one I got around to.

I was repacking my backpacking kit now that hiking season is going and needed something to wrap some duct tape around. Typical hiker wisdom is to wrap it around your water bottle, stove fuel, trekking pole, or similar item. After an experience last year where I wanted to just give my roll away to someone who was repairing stuff as I passed by I decided to wind it around something I could hand off this year.

This is the SVG by plasma2002 extruded out 1/8in and converted to STL for 3d printing. I made this so I could print them and figured it may save some effort for other people.

The original scale is not preserved. These are scaled to approximately fill my useful build area (160mm in X). Smaller machines are probably out of luck.

This is a simple token based off of the public domain geocaching logo. I needed something to leave behind in the ones I visit.

If you take a look at the Wikipedia page on geocaching, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geocaching, you can see the logo I based this on.

It’s intended to be a keychain but the single joint between the outer ring and inner logo may make it too fragile for that. I haven’t carried one around for long enough to tell.

This is a mounting bracket to hold a piece of 5/16 inch (8mm) threaded rod at a right angle to a wall for holding a filament spool. It uses a captive nut in the back to hold the rod in place.

I plan to coil small sections of filament cut from a bundle on this after the current spool runs out as the humidity control in my apartment isn't the best and I don't want to expose a full roll to it. I'm going to add a winding handle to make that easier but my printer is down for emergency repairs.

This is a modular game board with slots cut out for placing stones or marbles. I’m sure you could use this with any assorted stone placement game (go, tic-tac-toe, or whatnot).

I’m using this to learn what the friends and I decided to call “5-ago” you can read about the similar commercial game Pentago at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentago or pentago.se/ENRules.pdf

This came out of a discussion with friends about things I could design for printing. After the talk of cheaters/weighted dice we moved on to the topic of the most useless and comical item. Therefore we have here the weighted one sided die. Guaranteed to always roll a 1!

The larger piece has a flat face with a “1” cut into it. This is oriented to be flat on the print bed.

It's a traditional fish and chips bumper decal...

I think every one losses all the ammunition for their assorted foam launching weapons. Plus isn't it better in hard plastic?

These are intended to spin and fly through the air in what one may call a 'vortex' like fashion. Unfortunately these have more of a tendency to misfire into a inaccurate wobbly flight then the originals.

I noticed a 'patent pending' stamp on the shooter. I'm not sure what they are trying to claim intellectual property on but I can't imagine a slightly rounded hollow plastic disk would be the thing. Without a patent existing I can't read it to see. I'm perfectly willing to delete this think if there is a problem

Like any good engineer should I often look at my tools and ask myself “How could this be more awesome AND more dangerous at the same time?”

The obvious answer when looking at a Dremel was “add a propeller.” This work is inspired by, but not derived from, the [now defunct?] Prop Rocket thing by James. I’m the wrong sort of engineer to design a propeller with any sort of real efficiency but it’s my hope that this will make some one more knowledgeable give some tips or upload their own design. Since I’ve now lost a few of these out my window, I guess it’s reached “flies well enough” status.

I showed this to a friend who requested a clarifications. This is a variation on those old toys which had a separate propeller press fit on to some type of handle. When the propeller is spinning fast enough the lift it provides over comes the friction fit that holds it down. At that point the propeller pops off and flies away. This is a version of that spun by a Dremel. It is not intended to fly away with your Dremel.

Warning: This is not intended to be a toy or even really be safe to use. Don’t attempt to use this unless you’re sure of your capabilities (are you certain your single walled print can hold blades together at Dremel speeds?). Even then I take no responsibility for you making one.

This is the first round of 3d printed terrain for tabletop gaming that I made. It's clearly based on the classic concrete 'jersey barriers' seen along highways.

I've included a complete one and 3 variants of blasted ones. The sketchup file is provided if you want to modify the blasted shapes.

The full model is 33mm tall. It looked too big so the other 2 are printed at 75% scale. At 75% scale its ~25mm. Note that this is important to many games as less than 1 in makes it passable terrain. All files are 33mm in the stl.

The rubber band powered penny launcher is a staple of engineering inter office warfare. Although it could just be the graduate student research group setting. In any case I saw a few similar disc launcher things but nothing that really suited my needs. This is just a simple version I quickly tossed together. The range is easily across the lab using standard rubber bands double wrapped on each side.

For those not in the US, the penny is about 19mm across and 1.55mm thick.


Update 3/1/12
I’ve added a version with fixed geometry. It slices without any errors and warnings for me. If you somehow get an error please let me know.

This is a derivitive of “Tatooine Jawa” by abydla in the sketchup warehouse. sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=b9a6824e74a017033f217b945a063dd2&prevstart=0

This is the next unit of grunts I’m making for my all printed warmachine army. Same set of changes as the others:
1. Removed unprintable details
2. Simplified other details
3. Stitched together some sections
4. Removed some self intersections
5. Mild 'artistic' changes (adjusted relative scaling)
6. Removed the hands – they are totally printable but it just looked better to put the hand as part of the weapon bit instead

I’ll be playing them as gun mage style infantry but they look a bit more cultist then I originally imagined. I’m sticking with them this way because ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn.

I debated having different arm positions in the unit. After trying a few I’ve come to the conclusion it’s easier to just bend the arms after the model has been printed.

I'm not satisfied with the weapons bits so far so I didn't include them yet.

This is a derivative of “World of Warcraft - The Lich King“ by mandun in the sketchup warehouse.
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c2108ac26e7cec1046f463434f849d53&prevstart=0

I'm working on making both of those models easily printable. This one was much less involved hence it being first.

It's pretty much the same set of changes as the other models I've posted from the sketchup warehouse.

1. Removed unprintable details
2. Simplified other details
3. Stitched together some sections
4. Removed some self intersections
5. Mild 'artistic' changes (no more jokes about his belt buckle being his 'package'!)

I'll be playing him as my sub commander type model in my warmachine army. I haven't done his weapons yet and don't plan to for a while.

Note: Warmachine and the related terms are property of privateer press. This model is not intended to actually look like or be the model they provide but is simply my proxy for it.

This is the initial set of tokens I made for my warmachine army. They include:

shield – armored
X – wrecked
explosion – special ammunition
eye - hidden/spotted
fire – on fire
Cross hair hexagon – action point
wet floor – knocked down


Some of these are traced from publicly available images (Eye hieroglyphic, wet floor sign, etc)

Update 1/23/12
I've added some other tokens based on feedback from friends. Now includes:
skull – for units that collect heads
sprocket – special action
plus – stat bonus
chevron – unit commander

Note: Warmachine and the related terms are property of privateer press. This is not intended to actually look like or be the tokens they provide.

This is a derivative of "World of Warcraft - Nightelf Death Knight" by mandun in the sketchup warehouse. sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=a71ca1aada5552e6b480d8a0fa501a4b&prevstart=0

This is the first grunt unit I put together for my all printed warmachine army.

I modified him for printing including:
1. Removed unprintable details (cloak/ears/etc)
2. Redrew the sword. I made it cartoonish intentionally.
3. Reposed for some variety in the unit.
4. Some modification for printing. He has clown feet now so he stands up better.

I'll be playing this unit as proxies for stormblades.

Note: Warmachine and the related terms are property of privateer press. This model is not intended to actually look like or be the model they provide but is simply my proxy for it.

This is my blast template for tabletop gaming. My plan is to use this with my all printed army in warmachine. The rings are at 3, 4 and 5 inches. The cutouts start at the actual distance (e.g. the inner disk is 3in and then the cutout occurs). The underside in the print has scatter markings for rolling a d6.

My test print was not going to come out well due to bed leveling problems over the large size of this. I canceled that print and have not had a chance to try again. If your print bed is sufficiently level it should print fine though.

I’ve also included a simple 3 inch template separately since I plan to need several of the 3in size concurrently.

Update 1/18/12
I added a 4in and 5in simple marker to.