This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

Johnson polyhedra have faces composed of regular polygons: triangles, squares, pentagons,hexagons, octagons and decagons. There are only 92 such polyhedra. Instructions for making paper models are available, but with stl files one could print more durable examples.

I recently came across the netlib library of polyhedra at

netlib.sandia.gov/polyhedra/

which includes the Johnson polyhedra. I was pleased to see that it would be easy to convert the files to openSCAD polyhedron comands. Polyhedron commands are
a compact way of describing a polyhedron and, when executed, output an stl file.

I wrote a fortran program to convert the files; however a few files had errors. I had corrected most errors with openSCAD's unusual, but marvelous, "thrown together" mode when I was informed that the errors had already been noticed and corrected by George Hart

georgehart.com/virtual-polyhedra/netlib-info.html

There is a link on the George Hart page to a set of VRML files which display the Johnson polyhedra with color coded faces. References are also given.

Using the corrected files I was able to finish the conversion. You will find the 92 scad files in Johnson_Scad_Files.zip and the 92 stl files in Johnson_Stl_Files.zip.

To get a large version of the polyhedra it is best to print a hollow structure. Five examples of hollow polyhedra stl files are included here together with a sample openSCAD file, hollow_j03.scad.

Introducing the Thingiverse's first fully printable flying object, the Whirligig. Just like its wooden toy ancestor, the whirligig will fly like a helicopter several meters when spun by hand.

Here's a video of the Whirligig in action: youtu.be/Ly2nxN80kGs

As promised here is the second instalment.
I like the 20mm size Im making them all that size. if you need a bigger size let me know and i will try to make it so.and thanks to protoparadigm and dkennell for there printer designs
thats why Im making 20mm t-slots
hoping it will help everybody that use t-slots and mabeyit will inspire more people to use them.

Various OpenScad files of T-Slots. These are very similar to Misumi T-Slots. The OpenScad file allows you to pick your size and shape of you T-Slot. Examples are 2020, 2040, 4040, 2060, 2080. You may have trouble with the HUGE 2080. The 2060 x 100 took 9 hours to print on a TOM!

The Nuts portion is a work in progress so don't expect too much.

time to straighten things out a little. next something different.

I thought we needed some half slots.

130mm RC PLA printed Buldozer
with servo motor and gears
laptop batteries
7805 voltage regulator
"all functions" each thread and the arm.

T-Slot beam more versetile than just a single beam.
uploaded new files .

Helicopters are complex machines. They require high quality parts that are strong, lightweight, and accurate. Those are terms typically not associated with parts made on home 3D printers.

But could they be?

We all know home machines are getting better, but could you actually print a working helicopter on a home 3D printer? The obvious place to start is the blades. They must be thin, light, smooth, and strong. If you can't print blades, you can't make a helicopter. So can you?

Well, spoiler alert: you can. But do they actually work? Or do they fly apart when they spin up, or generate too much turbulence to actually fly?
See for yourself:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXlUSWrVzys

Printed on my Ultimaker 3D printer, using Netfabb "Ultra" (0.08mm) profile, 100% infill, 100% speed, no raft. Takes about 26 minutes per blade.

The helicopter is the "JXD 340", or sometimes the "Drift King" because unlike most cheap helis, it can fly sideways. Its a pretty awesome toy for $30, and much better than most cheap helis I have seen. Personally, I recommend it. Have a link:
amazon.com/Indoor-Infrared-Control-Helicopter-Gyroscope/dp/B004OGBNJ8/
And no thats not an affiliate link, I just think those toys are sweet.

SAFETY NOTE: I recommend PLA because it sticks well and works well with small layer heights. HOWEVER, PLA is brittle, and when these blades break, they tend to shear off and send a sharp piece flying. The pieces are light and it may not be an issue, but you have been warned. If you're about to crash, cut throttle power so the blades stop spinning and the amount of energy put into them is reduced. They've survived plenty of nicks on things, but if you crash under power they will break. Ultimately though, I am not responsible. Print at your own risk.

as it says a flying dragon set up as dxf for laser

Fully printable, functional mini clamps. Capable of maintaining up to five pounds of clamping force.

Mini Clamp with 85mm clamping capacity

Mini Spreader Clamp with 110mm capacity

Changes made:

Slightly shorter to better fit the TOM build platform

Jaw changed to slide more easily on Bar

Lip added to Jaw and to Wedge for easier one handed clamping/unclamping.

Three more sizes of Wedges. Wedge2 is the standard size. If the jaw fits too loosely or too tightly, try one of the other sizes. The "ClampWedges" file has one of each size of wedge so that you can test the different fits.

Added the Spreader Clamp

Added 140mm blank Bar

I'm considering making a fully printed miniature wargaming army. These are the bases so I can compare them to various models for sizing. They are sized and marked for Warmachine. I gave them the facing markers since I'm going to be playing (more then) a few empty base proxies while I work on the army.

The scad lets you turn the markings off and resize. They are face down for better printing.

The model was created in Autodesk Inventor 2011, using only 90 degree angles to maintain its rigid appearance. It was designed to stand up on a desk or computer, and was inspired by the increasing popular game called Minecraft. Additionally, the design was meant to test the makerbot. The Creeper is a close to exact scale model of the one in the game. It was supposed to have 4 legs instead of 2 but I decided to have 2 because it would be more structurally strong.

Due to the laws of physics, the original print didn't turn out exactly as i wanted it to. As you can see by the attached images, the mouth sagged a bit because the Makerbot was forced to extrude the plastic in mid air (as it prints layer by layer). I then refined the original design to prevent this from happening by increasing the width of the bottom of the mouth.

It's a big seven segment display :) I used three 5mm LEDs per segment with the intent that they could be wired in series and driven straight from a micro-controller output pin. Connecting my orange LED's wired up that way to a 5V supply gave a reading of 13 mA. A micro-controller should have no trouble driving the three leds without any transistors or resistors or anything. Depending on the voltage drop of your LED's you may need a small current limiting resistor.

I'd like to do a clock with this sometime soon. So I'll have to add an additional front plate with a clock type display instead of a decimal point.

Eventually I'll try for an 8 inch display using interlocking segments. Once the prusa is running I could do an 8 inch display all in one print. Of course the ultimate goal is a 12 inch display like evil mad scientist labs has for $50 each. Then world domination. (cue maniacal laughter)

I used Mineways to export a chunk of a minecraft world, and print it. The model I printed is attached to this thing.

Here's a video that explains the process. youtube.com/watch?v=K3Un7uCm3Jg

youtube.com/watch?v=mXaDjmFQ4RY

Built in Minecraft.
Exported with Mineways.
Printed on a RepRap Prusa.
Starring my sudo mallet.

In retrospect, I don't know if I could've done this faster in OpenSCAD. So there you go, Minecraft is a valid modelling option it seems.

My first Robotic Hand (version 2.0) was designed with no 3d printer in mind. Version 2.0 had many shortfalls and difficulties. Since then, I've gotten a TOM and have learned how to design with its limitations and benefits in mind. I present to the 'verse Robotic Hand Version 3.0. Ver 3 requires less non-printable hardware, it requires less plastic to print, less printing time, less post-print work (very little sanding), and far less pull force is required to manipulate.

Version 3.0 Video of the Robot Hand in action:
youtu.be/7AlyGPnU6U0

Version 3.0 Flickr Set:
flic.kr/s/aHsjxvAHJg

Version 2.0 for reference:
thingiverse.com/thing:2408

Very much a work in progress! This is an odometer for filament! It should measure filament by the centimeter so you can have a real measurement for filament used! The base it attaches to slides on to the counter assembly, so you can chose different mounts for it, but the first mount is for a ToM endcap.

I'm currently printing the first set of parts to validate the design, after some tweaks, I'll upload the first working design to share and build from!

The next version will have a second resettable counter. I will also provide just the counter mechanism as a separate "thing" once I make sure everything works okay.

An Octocat with some minor improvements. I used meshmixer to smooth it out a little and to make a more gradual slope on the neck to reduce the droopy overhang.

Original Octocat is a mashup of Bucket o' Octopi thingiverse.com/thing:7900 and The Cat thingiverse.com/thing:1283

This is a prototype animatronic tail, OpenScan designed 3D printed on a 3D printer and controlled by Arduino.

This is a small test:
youtube.com/watch?v=d1k9p1P4s8I

I attached in a text document the code that use to control the servo with arduino.

Uses the number of vertebrae that want, i use 10 plus the final. I put a rubber cord in the side holes to keep the tail as, in the other holes, i put a normal string attached to the wheel. And so that the rope does not slip from the wheel put some small aluminum rings.

I hope you like ;)

You will need to buy some 1/8inch tubing and you will need 1/4inch dowels. I am using two layers of 1/4 peg board to place the dowels in separate the two layers by 1/2 inch so the 1/4 dowels will not fall over.

The 1/8 tubing fits into the Ball_with_large_hole1.stl
The bracket_large_holder_rotate.stl Attaches to the 1/4 dowels and the Ball_with_large_hole1.stl.

The Ball_no_hole_1.stl is to be used to maintain the proper distance between the two tracks or tubes.

You can use a marble or a 3/4inch ball bearing. Just check that it will pass over the holders for the tubing.

The Ball_with_large_hole_10mm_high.stl is to be used if you need to join two ends of tubing.

made in Rhino works with most train sets. Its always annoying when it doesn't work because you have the wrong connectors. I have added both inny and outy bits

Goofing off mechanical model in rhino.

I like the cat bust by SteveCooley. With its small ears it looks like an Egyptian cat representation. I downloaded it and found that it was perfectly sized to fit into an ornament frame from a previous post. When I tried to modify it in openSCAD I received a "winding error". After sending the stl file to netfabb Studio's cloud and cutting a sliver off the bottom the winding error disappeared. The file smallcathead_fixed(Cut 2).stl can be imported into an openSCAD program.

When I showed the ornament to my daughter she said: "Very nice. It would look good as a bust."

This is for my son to shoot with a Nerf Dart Gun. It is a little larger (60mm diameter) than Vik's and has rings on it. The OpenSCAD is included so that you can make your own in any size (the rings are optional).

Prototype mount for a TowerPro brushless motor intended for Brooklyn Aerodrome's Towel RC plane design.

It's very important to let others know the hazards of operating dangerous equipment, especially automated equipment, and especially when specialized safety equipment may be necessary. This warning label lets people know to be careful around your laser cutter, lest they be blinded by awesome.

Happy New Year 2012!
Print a gift to your loved ones!
All toys are printed by me on Prusa Mendel.

A friend of mine has two young kids, and, as is normal some of their toys aren't indestructible.

3D printing to the rescue, and there is now a compatible corner part for "Free Time 4 Kidz" Tent.

She also suggested the excellent category of "Replacements for stuff that kids break"