http://www.thingiverse.com/MkMan/likes Fri, 30 Jul 2010 23:51:11 +0100 FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net) en-us Copyright 2010, Thingiverse.com http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3617
So I recently saw a blog post on hypocycloid gears on the Reprap Blog ( fabricationsofthemind.com/2010/07/09/extruder-design-1-printable-1001-hypocycloidal-gearbox/ ) .

Some really good info on them can be found here:

zincland.com/hypocycloid/

Also do a search on youtube for hypocycloid reducer. Lots of vids.

They seem to be perfect for a robot arm joint. I want to make a robot arm. I started to put one together in OpenSCAD. I have way more than I'm uploading here, but this is just the arm joint. The outside layers are fixed and the inside four layers rotate as the gears turn. I wanted to cut this using ponoko bamboo, but there is no way to go from OpenSCAD to ponoko bamboo (that I know of). I don't have a makerbot yet.

Hopefully someone can pick this up and run with it. The file needs to be edited quite a bit to print it out on a Reprap or something. Drop me a message if you want to print this out and I can help you understand the file. ]]> bkorsedal Mon, 26 Jul 2010 20:43:12 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3617 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3554
This is a design for a /really/ inexpensive linear axis mechanism for an open source selective laser sintering 3D printer that I've been designing (but it should be generally useable for anything that requires a one or two axis system). This is a follow up to the selective laser sintering alpha one dual Z tables that I recently posted ( thingiverse.com/thing:3390 ).

The innovations in this system are its extremely minimal vitamin count -- only a handful of bolts, washers, and nuts are required. It also uses several long pieces of kapton tape as a linear slide bushing, to dramatically reduce friction and drag (though regular old scotch tape may work just as well ;) ).

]]> peter_ Fri, 16 Jul 2010 01:50:59 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3554 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508
A c-clamp in any size you want. The provided STL file is for a #8 nut. ]]> LogicG8 Fri, 09 Jul 2010 03:46:11 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:838
Shotglass MK2The original shot glass was not to size. I did a little more research and came up with this version. It is the exact dimensions used by a catering company. Check out the images supplied. There are some details about the dimensions and size of the build. Enjoy :) ]]> CidVilas Tue, 28 Jul 2009 07:02:54 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:838 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3472
This is more of an experiment than a practical object. The idea was to create a structure made from a printed frame with a thin plastic skin stretched over it. ]]> degroof Sat, 03 Jul 2010 01:08:32 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3472 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3210
This is a chess set that I designed for my dad for his birthday this year.

My dad taught me how to make, create, design, build, program, and solder from a young age. This year I finally remembered that parents don't like their children to buy them expensive things, they like their children to build them things. And you could end up making the worst looking thing ever, but they'll love it, just because you made it.

Happy birthday dad. ]]> peter_ Mon, 24 May 2010 00:02:06 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3210 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207
A product of my quest to find the most efficient way to cut cookies and minimizing the amount of remaining cookie dough. My attempts have failed thus far because cookies expand in the oven. (Expansion = good for cookies but bad for Escher-like designs) ]]> bpijls Mon, 24 May 2010 09:25:28 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146
This parts is support for your electronics hobby. You are able to make a "LED light buttons" with tact switch. ]]> rerofumi Sun, 16 May 2010 14:57:04 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2597
I was reading through some of the forums and discussions regarding different ways to build PCBs. I started thinking about the midway point and had the idea to build a breadboard.

I ran up a quick block of 20 rows (no power rails for this test).

I've left a Slot under each row 10mm deep this is where a strip of metal is put in to form the contact.

This is an experiment I intend to print when I have a bot.

Primary design concerns are:
* Will it print cleanly enough for use?
* Has enough space been left for the metal contact strip?
* What strip type would work best?

I've included the SKP file.

NOTE: IF this works, selecting metal strips out of metal that will take solder would mean that the board could be turned over and components soldered into it to make it permanent. And then you could just print another one!


]]> whowhatwhere Tue, 27 Apr 2010 14:38:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2597 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476
A ruler designed to measure Legos. One side is bricks one side is studs. ]]> zanew Fri, 23 Apr 2010 00:36:09 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2433
Here is my robotic arm made of 4mm hardboard with a 3-axis cnc, it is also printable. The servos are the most cheapest ones (TopLine standard servo RS 2 J/R and TopLine mini-servo ES-05 JR).

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=gfsLu1iuLRg

More about the electronics and other info at:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/
]]> jjshortcut Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:15:47 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2433 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2414
A gripper compatible with a standard servo. I used a RS 2 J/R servo from modelcraft. My model is made with a 3 axis CNC milling machine but it's also printable. It's made of 4mm hardboard.

For a little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=HPPdbNW-OvI

For more pictures and more info:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/ ]]> jjshortcut Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:26:16 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2414 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2415
A gripper compatible with a mini servo I used the Topline ES-05 JR, I milled it with a 3-axis cnc machine but its also printable. Made of 4mm hardboard.

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=7CUNx4kPw6w

For more pictures and info:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/ ]]> jjshortcut Tue, 20 Apr 2010 19:06:25 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2415 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2089
A robotic arm printer to be used with geared hobby motors ]]> galaxyman7 Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:38:27 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2089 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2031
Using a file without a handle on is a potentially dangerous concept, what with this spike being moved around rapidly in front of you and with great force, often in the squishy part of your palm. Much safer and more comfortable to use a handle on it. Also you can hang them up with the loop provided in the handle, or use the handle to stop them dropping through your tool rack.

Two sizes are provided as STL's below in the traditional manner; too big, and too small. Fortunately they scale well. ]]> vik Sat, 20 Mar 2010 03:15:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2031 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2033
Robot Shield v2.1I've felt a need for a way to very quickly and easily attach sensors and motors to an Arduino to prototype simple robots. I love ladyada's motor shield but was frustrated by it's inability to easily connect to sensors.

So far I've tested the board on my sumobots and a prototype fire-fighting robot and it works perfectly.

This is my first prototype and I'm in the process of iterating the design once more. I'm thinking I may use a NAND gate to free up an extra two digital lines and perhaps not include a built in potentiometer and speaker and instead have a mini prototyping area with .1" spaced pins. I'm open to suggestions... What do you think this board needs?

The eventual goal is to sell kits to help fund more robotics projects here at the Tufts Robotics Club (see: tuftsroboticsclub.com ) and hopefully help robotics enthusiasts turn their ideas into reality just a little more quickly and easily.

I have a few extra boards which I might be selling in the near future. Let me know if your interested in a board/kit at langfordw[at]gmail[dot]com ]]> langfordw Sun, 21 Mar 2010 04:57:02 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2033 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1877
Hand-carved numbers on a D6 is cool. Hand-carved numbers on a mass-producable, shareable D6 is even better!

On Monday the tutorial for making this in Blender 2.51 will be up! ]]> MaskedRetriever Sun, 21 Feb 2010 18:52:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1877 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794
A printed spur gear driven extruder for Mendel or Darwin. ]]> Wade Thu, 11 Feb 2010 00:26:12 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1741
This is my first attempt at a Sarrus linkage suitable for a Z axis. It has room for a skate bearing, 10-32 threaded rod, and 10-32 nut to drive it. In practice, this mechanism is not quite stiff enough for good printing, but it might be useful for other things.

The total range of movement is just over 100 mm. ]]> fdavies Thu, 04 Feb 2010 03:09:00 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1741 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1719
This is an scad file that will generate connectors for geodesic domes, hopefully. ]]> c60 Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:50:47 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1719 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1710
This design is intended to use non-printed 6mm balls as rolling elements. If you don't have any, you should be able to pick up more than you will ever need at a sporting goods store under the name of Airsoft BBs. This draft has no race, if it turns out it needs one tell me and I will whip it up.

There are two sets of stl, the alt.stl files are in ASCII format and the others are in binary.
NOTE: The stls are scaled so 1 unit = 1 meter. You will probably need to scale them up to be able to print. ]]> Corwin Sat, 30 Jan 2010 03:02:00 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1710 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1716
Bus Pirate V2 EnclosureThis enclosure was modeled using OpenSCAD. The model is partially parametrized, meaning you can adapt the parameters given at the start of the file and an enclosure will be generated to fit your inner volume, holes, material thickness etc.

The script generates DXF for laser cutting.

I will probably generalize this model further whenever the need for a similar enclosure arises.

See also the OpenSCAD source code for more info.

NB! Requires openscad-2010-01-31 or newer (for project() and ceil() functionality) ]]> kintel Sun, 31 Jan 2010 04:25:24 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1716 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1704
This is the first draft of a mostly printable linear bearing and a printable linear rail setup. I make no guarantees to prinability, usability, or sanity.
I don't have a 3D printer, so I can't test it myself. If you try it, let me know! If you can't make it work, let me know! I'd like to make this work, so if you'd like to help me, help me help you help me help us all by telling me about it here or on the reprap forums. The non-printable part is the recirculating 6mm balls. Note on where to get them below. ]]> Corwin Fri, 29 Jan 2010 19:26:40 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1704 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1703
This is an alternative toolhead to allow milling with a RepMan 3d printer.
Feel free to adapt it to other printers like Mendel, Darwin and Makerbot.
It should work fine for milling 3d-objects (Skeinforge) and PCBs (visolate) or for exact drilling (drill holder attachment) and cutting (90° attachment and cutting-disc).

You need a Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment (Model 225) and a Dremel as well as an M5x95mm(or longer) screw or threaded rod for this.

Documentation: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_PCBs
Forum-Thread: bitsfrombytes.com/fora/user/index.php?topic=517.msg4459

Update: I made a Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOt_yXAkMrs) of my first tests of PCB milling using this toolhead. It performed well given that I fitted a way too large milling-bit and did not tighten/block the springs holding the print-surface.
Update: Experimental Skeinforge settings for milling are documented here: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_in_3D
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=7rdkIjtuiYA

Challenge:
(Details: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=User:MarcusWolschon/Challenges )
Get 10 small mendel parts or 2 larger ones or your design printed for
adapting this RepMan Dremel milling-toolhead to fit the Mendel.

See:
objects.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_X-axis
Note that you will probably have to design a new x-carriage-lower_1off or even also a x-carriage-upper_1off due to the poor design of the Mendel x-carriage regarding mounting alternative tools that are wider then 22mm.
5 additional small or 1 large parts if you can do it so extruder and mill can be switched with 4 or less easily accessible screws. ]]> MarcusWolschon Fri, 29 Jan 2010 18:50:07 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1703 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1699
We needed a shower drain with a height of about 3 cm and a vertical outlet channel which was difficult to find so I decided to print one. ]]> bruno Fri, 29 Jan 2010 11:10:34 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1699 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1689
this is a VAWT I made at the local fablab(protospace)
according to the labmanager the twist in the blades removes the pulsating noise
the normal darieus makes.
it`s made in openscad but the code is a little messy.(apart from openscad I only wrote some hello world like things for python tutorial exercises)
]]> random Thu, 28 Jan 2010 14:47:23 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1689 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1678
Ok, so this is a 2d object for a postscript printer, instead of a 3d printer.

But we have rulers and protractors in the tool list, and there are those out there who may not be so endowed. So if you've got a printer, and no protractor, you now have no excuse.

I wrote this years ago when I was learning postscript, thought it would be useful here. ]]> ssd Wed, 27 Jan 2010 17:17:49 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1678 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664
This is Thing-a-Week #3, previous things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

This is version 0.0 of a modular case for an Arduino and other electronics projects. After testing I am going to look into getting the pieces injection molded in bulk.

They are designed to fit 6 across in a 1U Rack, or 4 across turned the other way.

There is room for most shields, and space in the front of the case for a display circuit board. The end piece with a cutout is designed to hold a 3mm thick plate you can laser or hacksaw out of acrylic, wood or whatever.

I think the Makerbot versions should work if your printer has problems with overhangs. Let me know if I forgot anything.

Feedback is greatly appreciated. ]]> IHeartRobotics Mon, 25 Jan 2010 16:13:29 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1630
This is a Peristaltic Pump designed in Sketchup. I have tried to design it with an eye towards printing on a MakerBot, but do not own one so I cannot test at this time.

It should accept 3/4 inch hose with a 1/8 inch wall thickness.

]]> Leland Thu, 21 Jan 2010 03:19:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1630 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1658
Modular Boxes.

Print boxes and drawers and combine them as you want. ]]> Domonoky Sun, 24 Jan 2010 15:43:56 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1658