This is a series of nightlight covers for anxious types and insomniacs. Suitable for use in our neurotic times. They snap onto a standard $1.99 nightlight from the hardware store.

There were a lot of possibilities for subject matter in designing this. I finally settled on these four:
1. Economic Instability (or Your @$%$*! Mutual Funds)
2. The Lawyer Next Door - (Maybe he's trolling Thingiverse looking for your Lego or Tintin Derivatives) (Sorry I don't have the resolution to get the Porsche logo on the sunglasses)
3. Bedbugs! (Are you itchy or is it...?)
4. Argument That You Lost in College - This one comes from a study that I read about a few years ago where they interviewed Yale students to find out what they were thinking about in times of introspection. The researchers were surprised to find that they weren't thinking about sex as expected but about winning arguments that they had lost. Hence the ultimate humiliating College Intellectual put-down - "That's a Tautology Dude!"

Some outtakes include:
Did I Unplug the Makerbot?
Arcane Skeinforge Settings
Fried Twinkies and Beer Dinner
Your Family
Weird New Weather
Cousin Hank's Political Views
Massive Solar EMP!
Weird New Politicians
The Top 1%
The Bottom 99%
Cher Earworm

This is the first iteration (third internal) of my attempt to make printable Velcro. It is pretty nice to hang things, probably this small piece will resist much more than a kilogram of weight (hanging weight) and it is very easy to remove.

3d printing revolution is just starting, I don't say this is a flawless piece but I really consider it is a very good example about a very sweet future about us modifying our brains from "search-buy-adapt" (frustration included) to "think-design-print" (self-pride included :D ).

Quick demo video: youtube.com/watch?v=BtLSMI3xVDY
Quick demo #2 (perpendicular): youtube.com/watch?v=eLehgIfjmpA

This was an object that did not exist in our 3d printing world, so I like to think this is an "upgrade" from real world to a better virtual&teleportable world ;)

This project is what inspired my Gear O' Clock gear profile. A very simple continuous .075 radius. Formula below for making your own...

youtube.com/watch?v=VHtRhu262zk

Print out all or a few of the gears.

Grab a mechanical pencil, Sharpie Pen, or an similar fine drawing utensils.

Hold outer gear, place utensil in any one of the inner gears and draw many shapes.

Feel free to use my design to make any new gear designs you wish. I only ask that you share working ones and upload them as derivatives. The designs can be endless. Squares, ovals, rectangles, blob shaped and any combination can be made.

The diameter of the gear teeth is .15 inches. (See drawing.)
You must calculate pi by first determining how many teeth you want.
So basically 31 teeth x 2 = 62
62 x .15 = 9.3" which = The Circumference
9.3"/ pi = 2.962 which = the diameter to base your teeth off of.
The diameter refers to the pitch circle or center of diameter of your gear teeth.

Just a simple hommage to the Reprap project. Ice cube tray in the shape of the Reprap logo. So next time you have a 3D printer party (I know you guys do!), make sure you make a few of these...cheers!

Not totally sure this would work yet since my Prusa Mendel is not here yet :(, but let me know if it does (or doesn't...)

Just wanted to make something fun to start with when I do eventually get my Prusa Mendel...

UPDATE: I remade this from scratch (again) in OpenSCAD so it's now Parametric and super precise...and you can fiddle with it. Also, the new version in OpenSCAD is a little different that these renderings.

Used some code for the logo shape made by raldrich thingiverse.com/thing:11944

For programming the AVR ATtiny45 and ATtiny85 microcontrollers from Atmel without any additional circuitry or components. This acts like a USBtinyISP (http://ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/) but provides an 8-pin socket for placing the ATtiny45/85 directly into the programmer. The firmware is a combination of USBtiny (http://dicks.home.xs4all.nl/avr/usbtiny/) and V-USB (http://www.obdev.at/products/vusb/index.html).

This is a spring designed for 3d printing.

Watch the video to see it in action!
youtube.com/watch?v=UxwbQSMbEIA

The more you scale the spring, the smaller the spring constant.

Increasing your filament width increases the spring constant.

The spring can be used in tension or compression, but it must be fairly short with comparatively thick filament width to be used in compression.

It can be made extremely flexible and it is very fun to play with.

It's form was discovered by accident, as it was originally auto generated support for the middle of a hollow cylinder.

I'm still perfecting the design but it works quite well in it's current state.

I will be uploading different sizes (and source files shortly) over the next few days.

The spring was prototyped on a Fablicator.
Fablicator.com

This was originally designed to be a copy of a Vandoren B45 but the CAD work and precise measurements proved to be too complicated to do it justice

Instead, this is a just barely functional clarinet mouthpiece.

youtube.com/watch?v=5L0RddOFvb8

Printed on a Fablicator
Fablicator.com

A stamp in a case for embossing paper and card. The stamps are changeable with two examples included.

The top includes slots for storing the spare stamps, which also provide rigidity even when the skeinforge fill settings are low. For similar reasons the bottom includes "pillars" that help transmit the force evenly across the whole template area.

The design is in OpenSCAD and fully parametric including the size of the design area, the thickness of the base and templates, and the gap between the lid and the base, which should be based on the thickness of the rubber you use (see instructions below).

A single unit of houndstooth. These are 1/8" thick and the center square of each one is 1".

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houndstooth

Built with a Makerbot Cupcake.

NEW VIDEO! youtube.com/watch?v=gCGmpHHC0Ag

It's a 3D printed clock! WOOT!

It consists of 12 number plates, 2 gears, and 1 mount.

All units are inches.

In the zip folder are two versions of the main drive gear and clock base (10" gear). The gear I sectioned into four pieces (print two of each) and a version of the drive gear that does not need supports.

This should main clock base should fit on most hobby printers. I made everything so that it requires no support and fits within a 4x4" box.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler."
-- Albert Einstein

So I made this Keychains "As Simple As Possible" (and hopefully not simpler!)

This is a fun little mechanical gadget. I think it is called a fast return actuator. Turn the crank clockwise and the bird swings back and forth with a very satisfying pecking motion. I made something similar out of wood years ago, pretty fun to be able to draw it in sketchup and print it out.

This is a 100x150x68cm box made with openSCAD.

EDIT 09/30/2011 : I've added the .scad files in the .rar. The names are in French so I hope it's clear enough. I've made the shoulder and the arm after i've fixed my box size, therefore if you wish edit parameters everything might not realign correctly.

EDIT 10/09/2011 : I've cut the bottom part and the shoulder in half to be printed on a Makerbot.

Another model that was inspired by my kids. Classic logs to stack, sort of like Lincoln Logs, but I don't think they are the same size as Lincoln Logs. 3 different log styles and a roof. These things are easy to print and roll right off the automated build platform.

We have had some debates around the house about the cost of these logs, I suppose given the amount of plastic in them, energy used to make them, etc... they are pretty inefficient. My point of view is that at this point in the evolution of 3-D printing we're still trying to discover what is worth printing, so with that in mind, figured what the heck might as well post these since they are kind of fun.

Thanks for the comments! Pretty interesting to see the math behind the cost. Makes me feel better.

I have a big floor fan that constantly tipped toward the ceiling because the adjustment nuts on it were loose. It came with knobs, so the nuts could be tightened by hand, but those knobs fell off and got lost. So now, new knobs!

Hopefully I correctly understand what "parametric" means. The .scad file contains a single module call whose parameters can be adjusted to change the size and shape of the knob. If I misunderstood the point there, go easy on me, as this is my first Thing! Hope you like it!

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:11326

I'm not proud of the design of this. It's rather ugly. But I thought I'd still upload it to see if it could inspire someone else to make a nicer version. I hope maybe someone find the simplicity of it quite cute.

It's a common design of a 4 servo biped walker. It can be controlled with an RF remote, an Arduino, an MSP430 Launchpad or similar. It walks, dances... well moves around.

I've posted a video here:

lars.roland.bz/2011/09/08/3d-printed-simple-biped-with-4-servos/

I haven't included an upper body yet. I'm just using a Lego plate on the video, but I'm planning to build a proper body for it. I thought I might add some arms and some mini-servos to control those also...

The original was a good start, and good for a moldable form.

This thing represents some simple modifications to the original design to make it more easily printable. There are two primary changes.

1) There is now a central hub that is a cylinder instead of a sphere. This looks interesting, and serves to give a nice anchor point to the design.

2) The part that connects the flanges to the central part is now the same diameter as the widest part of the flange. That eliminates the largest 'overhang' part when printing on its 'side'

Other than that, the attached .stl files are for tubing that has a 5/16" inner diameter. It works great with vinyl tubing of that size. Wouldn't it be funny if someone filled those tubes with a hardening epoxy after connecting it into an interesting shape?

UPDATE: 07092011
Added a couple more pictures where the hubs are used as semi-rigid joints with vinyl tubing and wood dowels.

This is a library of useful connectors and parts that can be mixed and matched to create interesting linkages and body shapes for toy robots. I'll be adding new bits and pieces to this over time.

Uses OpenSCAD so everything is parametric and hackable to make your own custom parts that snap together using all plastic pin connectors.

Includes a modified inline version of Parametric Makerbot M by br3ttb thingiverse.com/thing:11105

It's a kind of evolution of my Mars Exploration Rover thingiverse.com/thing:10057

This is an electric motor made from a printed circuit board, some 3D printed components, 44 magnets, 44 steel washers, and a handful of electronic components for drive circuitry.

It is similar in design to thingiverse.com/thing:802 but it is much easier to make and the performance is much better. Maximum mechanical power output is about 600 mW. Top no-load speed is about 2000 rpm. This is probably enough power to do something useful.

Also provided is an open source script that runs on Matlab or GNU Octave to generate custom motor coil patterns. The script will export CAM files in KiCad or EAGLE format, so you can fabricate coil patterns of your own liking.

While this motor used a commercially produced PCB for the coilplate, the idea is that users can produce functional motors using nothing more than their own 3D printers.

See reprap.org/wiki/Automated_Circuitry_Making for an overview of using Reprap-style printers to fabricate circuit boards.

Videos of the motor in operation are at
youtube.com/watch?v=aIj4dKaEXnU
youtube.com/watch?v=Gj_GX-TvAQU

This work was presented at ASME IDETC 2011. The paper citation is DETC2011-48602, Design of an Electromagnetic Actuator Suitable for Production by Rapid Prototyping, by Matthew Moses and Gregory S. Chirikjian

A revision of my previous joint for a Bunraku Style puppet. This version has less printed parts and less hardware.

Box with many small compartments for storing things.

Completely parametric, number and size of compartments as well as the wall thicknesses can be configured in the SCAD file.

Friction fit top with configurable tolerance for achieving suitable fit.

Last but not least, the top has matching grooves for the walls of the bottom part to prevent even the smallest parts migrating between the compartments.

ER16 collets are a fantastic toolholding system for small milling machines like the Taig, but keeping them organized is a pain. I needed a better storage system than the 'jumbled pile on a workbench' method that I had been using, and I've never seen any caddies or organizers for ER16 collets for sale.

I whipped up a simple box in SolidWorks to hold 15 collets with a matching lid. My original plan was to have hinges as part of the actual model, but I was in a hurry and just used the smallest hinges I could find at the home improvement store. However, hinges are entirely optional as the lid is keyed to the box with hemispherical bumps.

Here is a fantasy bottle I designed by digitally sculpting a form by hand, if you will. I used 3dCoat, so the process is very organic. The point of this excercise was to depart from a mathematical look, and see how organic a form could be executed. I like it :)

LICENSE CLARIFICATION: You have the right the print this out for your own personal use as per the Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives license indicated below. In addition, you may also rescale the item in any direction to fit your needs.

Folks, if we are to get to the Diamond Age, we are going to have to start printing furniture. We simply cannot shy away from destiny or from Mr. Stephenson's vision. A humble end table is a good place to start, then on to desks, chairs, beds & beyond. This end table has the following dimensions: Tabletop 11.75” square, 1/2” thick. Height of table with 5 inserts and a base and a top: 19.75” With 6 inserts: 22.25” tall. You can add or subtract inserts to vary the height.

Furniture can actually be art. If you search for table art in Google images, you can see stuff that's a lot more creative than what I'm doing. But I would submit to you, dear reader, that because the table is, near as I can tell, the first Makerbot printed usable end table without using wood and because the puzzle design of the top is mildly interesting and because the table is sort of aesthetically pleasing that it is (in its own way) art. I mean, c'mon, Warhol used soup cans!!

This design is simple using only 6 different printed parts. There are aspects of this project that can be used in other efforts. One of my fondest desires is to break into the custom computer case field. Becoming facile with easily assembled larger structures is crucial to this. The puzzle piece method can help to get me there. Also, the legs may be sturdy enough to implement into a chair design, but I'm not sure yet. A stool could be made with only a few modifications.

The limitations are only time and plastic. From design to print, this project took two weeks.

This is a collection of the entire human spinal column. I have used netfabb to slice each of the vertebres in half so that they can be printed out and then glued together. I am trying to complete the entire human body. I have scaled these to be slightly larger than the normal human size to increase the accuracy of the print. I will soon be adding the left hand. Please tell me what you think or give me suggestions . Thanks!

What started off as a section of straight train track has turned into a large train set. To be honest this was a great project during Hurricane Irene weekend. Was also my birthday when I did this, so something fun to do on my birthday. My kids have gotten a kick out of them. The ones in the photos are straight off the printer, no cleanup needed, some tips on that below. This stuff all pretty much snaps together, so not much in the way of post printing work required. These train works great without tracks. I was excited that the body design worked as well as it did and suprised that the Makerbot did so well printing the tall axle towers. Would be fun to modify the wheels for more of a monster truck look. Maybe during the next hurricane...

I drew this stuff in Sketchup and then exported to the stl file. If it is useful to anyone I happy to post the Sketchup files. The curve track was tricky to draw, for some reason it tends to warp up a bit on one end when printed. I think probably due to by build platform being sort of warped (need to replace the belt on my ABP...).

Update 9/24/2011:I just replaced a large number of the stl files with new versions that are a lot cleaner, and should print a lot better. I also removed earlier versions that I didn't think were worth printing because the new versions were much better. All the files I've loaded here have been tested and should print well on a Makerbot.

Well I mix plaster, paint and silicone all the time and I hate having a different mixer for each job. So I came up with this design that mixes very well no matter what your trying to mix. I found that this mixer mixes far better than the ones you get at Home Depot and the cool thing about this is that you print it out...

Update: I've changed the blades so that you can secure them together with screws and nuts. Print out the V3.1 blades if you want to use this method.

Update 2: 9/16/2011
OK I was told that the blades were not aligned when put together so I looked at the design again and I know what went wrong. When I changed a blade size length everything was misaligned but still could be used. Now in Version4 everything should be correct. Please let me know is there is any other adjustments or changes that you all would like. Thanks again for all the input.

A simple sphere made from three interlocked rings I made one day to show the whole process to a friend.

The dimensions of the rings in the provided stl files are 60mm outer diameter, 20mm height and 3mm thickness. They have been generated with one face at every 2mm of the perimeter and also, a gap of 0.4mm in the slots which gave a nice fit for the rings printed by bot1334.

The zip file contains two more examples (40mm diameter, 5mm and 10mm height and, if I'm not wrong, 2mm thickness) however, I was not using any "gap" parameter for those so... they'll need some cleaning to fit properly.

Some more pics: flickr.com/photos/aubenc/sets/72157627518857918/

UPDATE:
Replaced the OpenSCAD file with v2 version which includes a production plate for the 3 rings in one build.
(I find the multiple colors a much nicer option though...)

Also added:
- A set for three rings that should fit in a Cupcake, their diameter is 48mm, height 16mm (thickness and gap same as above) and they are distanced 2mm.
- Another set for larger build envelopes with huge dimensions (180x60x4dot5.zip)

I have NOT printed those, hope they work fine, good luck if you try them!

BTW, feedback (and picture too) for the big set is highly welcome !!! specially if it doesn't work so no one else will waste time, plastic, energy... trying it out !!!

I printed only part of the big gear (n=49) due to time issues. It was enough to ensure a tight fit. The STL's are complete gears.

The gear ratio is exactly the same as the Ultimaker's extruder. No coincidence.

Rev 2 @
thingiverse.com/thing:11060

Post with working links on my blog: eclecti.cc/bytes/reprap-controlled-time-lapse-photography

YouTube example videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=T3j5oXpqWCk
youtube.com/watch?v=GFZXgxcfdHQ

While capturing the time-lapse last week, John and I ran into two irritating issues. The first is that the moving platform causes the object being printed to come in and out of the focal plane of the camera and makes for a jarring video. The second is that because the interval between photos is constant, some large and slow layers will have multiple shots taken while several consecutive quick layers can be skipped entirely. The solution to both of these is to dynamically remote trigger the camera from the printer.

I wrote a Skeinforge photograph plugin that inserts a new G-code command, M240, which tells the printer to trigger a photograph. The module offers three modes. End of Layer, as demonstrated by Yoda below, is the simplest. It takes one picture at the start of the first layer and then another at the end of each layer of the print, resolving only the second of the aforementioned issues. Corner of Layer takes a picture at the minimum Y,X of each layer. Least Change between Layers tries to take shots that are as close as possible to each other from layer to layer. I had the most visually interesting results with the last setting, as shown in the Flower print above. The module can be downloaded from github, and installation instructions are included within its text.

The other half of the control scheme is triggering the camera from the RepRap. Since I didn’t want to risk coupling my T2i directly to the printer, I went for emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote, which has been thoroughly reverse engineered. The hardware is simply an 850nm infrared LED in series with a 180 ohm resistor connected to one of the I/O pins on the Arduino Mega. I chose pin 23 because I could solder to it without pulling my RAMPS board off. The software side is equally simple. For this, I forked the excellent Sprinter firmware to respond to M240 and send the correct pulse over the IR LED. My fork is on github, but the diff that adds M240 support is the interesting bit.