Continues the theme of thingiverse.com/thing:3272 :)

The spheres stack into each other like Matryoshka dolls en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matryoshka_doll

I made these for fathers day a while back (printed out my dad's name) but they actually came out really well. They have a nice sound and feel to them. Since then I've just been printing out random letters and rediscovering the joy of playing with blocks.

**Just uploaded the whole alphabet. Enjoy :)
I've just been designing the letters as I need them but if you have a specific request just let me know. (I haven't quite worked out how to make parametric models easy to share)

This is George Hart's reconstruction of a 16th-c. wooden puzzle, currently in the Schloss Ambras Museum. Print out 76 units and reconstruct the original! A full description is available at georgehart.com/rp/torzle/torzle.html.

If you have ever used a 3d printer like the Dimension SST, you'll notice how there is little human interaction with the actual machine. When you set up a print, the machine takes care of running a test extrusion and then cleaning the nozzle before centering itself. With this in mind, I decided to try and get this working on my cupcake. Skeinforge already has support for nozzle wipe, I just had to make the bracket.

So far I've gotten an initial center, extrude, wipe start file for skeinforge semi-working. I've made one print in which I started my machine cold and just clicked print. I'll post it just as soon as the v2 firmware starts playing nice with my cupcake.

The Extruder controller on my MakerBot has been erratic lately by shutting down during prints. I read on the MakerBot wiki (http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1) for the Heated Build Platform, that getting air flowing over the Extruder controller pcb will almost always keep it from shutting down.
I designed a low profile enclosure that mounts a 40mm by 40mm 12VDC sleeve bearing fan at the side of the Extruder pcb. This side mount design provides reasonable air flow over the board while maintaining access to the reset button and terminals which are not easily accessible with a top mount design.
I have uploaded the STL, G-code and SolidWorks assembly (.zip) files. With the uploaded G-code files, the total build time is approximately 47mins (24 mins for the funnel and 23mins for the fcover).

Simple box/adapter for a 15 x 15 x 15 cube of sponge to clean the filament before it enters the extruder. Helps to also keep bugs out (yes, i do get bugs flying into my bot, into my extruder and smearing their insides all over the insides of the Mk4)

I am proud to announce that my MakerBot has given birth to a bouncing 44 gram, 7 cm mini-maker.

This is a 3D mini-MakerBot replica.

Included is a family portrait with the proud parent.

The Google SketchUp file contains the parts at both full size and scaled to 0.2 to fit the MakerBot print platform.

I printed Zaggo's whistle twice as big in PLA and it works!

A simple tool holder like thingiverse.com/thing:1509 I could not get skeinforge to parse IHeartRobotics' STL file so rather than futz with ASCII vs. binary issues I used it as an excuse to learn OpenSCAD and design my own. The design is parametric and hopefully easy to customize.

Completely useless plastic incarnation of a stickman, which pops up on the CD covers of my band 3rd Man (http://www.acmerecords.com/thirdman.php). A little big for a key chain but could be easily resized. This version is about 65x46x10mm in size. I have one hanging in my car and they can be given to fans along with a CD sale.

This is a knob that screws nicely onto the M8 threaded rods for the Z-Axis on a Makerbot. Inspired by Zaggo's thingiverse.com/thing:975, this knob is quick to print.

This is a small piece to be attached to the back of a desk. It can hold 3 cords, and keeps them from falling behind the desk when they're not being used. The ring diameters are custom for my cords (ethernet, vga, and audio) but they may work for you or you may be able to adjust the diameters to suit your cables. It's attached with two wood screws through the cylindrical standoffs.

NOTE: THING:4599 IS AN UPDATED VERSION OF THIS WITH A LITTLE THICKER TRAILING EDGE FOR DURABILITY.

This is a rubber band powered flying thing. Range 50 feet using a standard 3" x 1/8" rubber band.

Per Natetrue's recommendation, I rounded the ends of the blades. File: flying_thing_100601b_rounded.stl has the rounded blades. see last image.

See images "flying_instructions_page_1/2.jpg"

--- SAFETY WARNING LABEL ---
Use appropriate eye protection especially in the case of inter-office warfare. Care should be taken to avoid unprotected non-combatants.

This is NOT a child's toy; any use by children should be under close adult supervision.

After my initial not so successful attempts to create a snapping sphere I had a chance discovery when I tried to put a ball inside the two sphere halves and noticed that although the two parts of the sphere don't hold onto each other they both snap to the slightly smaller ball in the middle...So I went back to the original symmetric Demi-Sphere thingiverse.com/thing:3068 for the shell but added an inner sphere (without the hard to print top and bottom tips) to hold the two demi-sphere parts together. Snaps like a charm.

Similar to the design of a popular commercial iPhone stand, I drew this in SketchUp from scratch. Holds an iPhone 3g / 3gs in either landscape or portrait orientation. It can be slid up / down the phone to change the angle and seems to hold great. I also added a small hole to it so it can be tied on a keychain or anything.

This is a handy implement for conveniently carrying a couple of beer bottles on your occasional jaunts.

Did Apple sell you a phone that doesn't work so good as a phone when you short out the antennas if you "hold it wrong"? Do you have a 3d printer? Well if so become your own factory and fix the problem yourself!

For those whole like to ban things, this is a printed speldge hammer with the word BAN reversed out of the face.
Post about it on my blog: eagleapex.com/2009/11/01/ban-hammer-3d-printed/
Made at hive76.org

They're height adjustable to make it easy to level your bot and has a slot on the bottom to add a rubber band or washer of some sort to help cushion it and reduce vibrations and noise.

I'm not sure how much quieter it is, so might need thicker O-Rings on the bottoms.

The holes are tricky to get right so that the nuts and bolts fit snuggly, might need editing for your makerbot skeinforge settings.

They attach to the MakerBot by tightly squeezing and pinching onto the side panel so they're pretty easy to take on and off.

Could also design different bottoms to screw into them. I might try making something like the RepRap Anti-Vibration Feet: thingiverse.com/thing:808

just cleaned up the stl so it is manifold. Clean as a whistle :)

Make sure to properly feed your MakerBot else it might get angry. This laser-cuttable feed spool will make the job easier.

Updated:
- Widened the base to make it more tolerant of skew
- Reduced the inner splines diameter to make it easier to load filament.

I saw Makerblock's topic about the ball joint, I thought openSCAD was suitable and adviced it, but thought I'd give it a try myself. This is a very quick hack, but it can be easily modified since it's just code.

In OpenSCAD, you can choose to see an animation of the ball joint in action. Do this by uncommeting "demo();" and commenting "print();". To print it, choose the latter, press F6 and export to STL.

For a very cool implementation of this 'part' used in a camera mount, see thingiverse.com/thing:2631

My wife saw my cupholder (thing nr 1791), and said "It's not something that'll ever win a design award...." So I went to the basement and came back with this salt bowl an hour later.

She still wins, though :(

This salt bowl is inspired by an Ursula bowl from Royal Copenhagen.

This is my first model to this forum, so be nice :)

I design this her wind turbine for the desktop. There has been a solar panel which generates electricity on to the little engine that sits up in the turbine head.

youtube.com/watch?v=FkYCw5SYI6Q

This is my first attempt at a Sarrus linkage suitable for a Z axis. It has room for a skate bearing, 10-32 threaded rod, and 10-32 nut to drive it. In practice, this mechanism is not quite stiff enough for good printing, but it might be useful for other things.

The total range of movement is just over 100 mm.

VIDEO HERE: youtube.com/watch?v=D7nDykz6R1o

Step one: Print one of each, but you will need two caps.

Step two: Assemble wheel onto base then cog wheel.

Step three: Press or glue pins on axles.

Step four: Spin wheel in amazement!

This is a spindle to hold you filament while printing. This version is more robust than thingiverse.com/thing:1188

youtube.com/watch?v=k7Zzq97feIM

This is parametrized Box model. It can be adaped to your wishes by changing the parameters like height, diameter, screwing angle, grip height, and curve parameters. In case you just want a screwable jewellery box I included 3 versions of the box as stl files.

Well, I'm not sure what to say about this. Its the head of Walt Disney. You can print it. You can play with it. You can even put it on a robot and have said robot storm through a major metropolitan area and cause havoc. Just don't make it Brooklyn, thx. ;)

Oh yeah, I got the original model from here (cleanup was required for printing): davidoreilly.com/2009/01/walt-disneys-head-on-a-plate