This is a small Japanese "hirajiro" plains castle from the sengoku period. Castle bases were simply made of earth so for the castle to survive the vagaries of weather and earth quakes, superstructures had to be light. Hence we see simple walls, small houses and open-work towers. The model is meant for use when wargaming, and will be suitable for campaigns in Japan in the 1400s and 1500s - I will use it for the Kawanakajima campaigns.

I have made it for use with 10mm wargaming armies, though it would work equally well for larger or smaller scales. The ashigaru figure I placed in the courtyard for scale is 10mm foot to eye. He is a ripoff of Erik's excellent
bride and groom from thingiverse.com/thing:3495 (and he's based on the bride, no less!).

I finally made a re-design of the extruder assembly of a Beta
Ultimaker.
The design was on my mind for a long time.
The advance is the bigger diameter off the "bolt" (20 mm) and a bearing as a pressure roller.
Also the wheel has just straight grooves so I don't have to clean it anymore.
Because the grooves are straight it's not grinding in the filament
anymore.
I print for many hours without cleaning.
My parts are looking better also because of the constant transit of
the filament.

The only disadvantage is that you have to make some parts in steel.

Geo Hagen
hagentb.nl

Helicopters are complex machines. They require high quality parts that are strong, lightweight, and accurate. Those are terms typically not associated with parts made on home 3D printers.

But could they be?

We all know home machines are getting better, but could you actually print a working helicopter on a home 3D printer? The obvious place to start is the blades. They must be thin, light, smooth, and strong. If you can't print blades, you can't make a helicopter. So can you?

Well, spoiler alert: you can. But do they actually work? Or do they fly apart when they spin up, or generate too much turbulence to actually fly?
See for yourself:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXlUSWrVzys

Printed on my Ultimaker 3D printer, using Netfabb "Ultra" (0.08mm) profile, 100% infill, 100% speed, no raft. Takes about 26 minutes per blade.

The helicopter is the "JXD 340", or sometimes the "Drift King" because unlike most cheap helis, it can fly sideways. Its a pretty awesome toy for $30, and much better than most cheap helis I have seen. Personally, I recommend it. Have a link:
amazon.com/Indoor-Infrared-Control-Helicopter-Gyroscope/dp/B004OGBNJ8/
And no thats not an affiliate link, I just think those toys are sweet.

SAFETY NOTE: I recommend PLA because it sticks well and works well with small layer heights. HOWEVER, PLA is brittle, and when these blades break, they tend to shear off and send a sharp piece flying. The pieces are light and it may not be an issue, but you have been warned. If you're about to crash, cut throttle power so the blades stop spinning and the amount of energy put into them is reduced. They've survived plenty of nicks on things, but if you crash under power they will break. Ultimately though, I am not responsible. Print at your own risk.

A while back, a friend of mine asked if I could make her a version of a Fox 40 whistle.

Originally, I tried to make one in Google Sketchup but the result was unprintable. Then I made a close replica in OpenSCAD, but that didn't print well and didn't make any sounds.

So, I decided to go after a design that accomplished the same thing (2-tones & pealess) but had a more printable form. It took me 8 iterations, but I finally got it :)

Now robots can be gangstas too. This is a gangsta model with the Ultimaker robot head. I know I'm a little late to the party here, but I really wanted to do a mashup anyway.
Of course the original gangsta is here: thingiverse.com/thing:5367
My apologies for the crudeness of the model, but I don't know how to use 3d modelling programs to smooth. This was done 100% in OpenSCAD making use of the 3d hull() function which will be part of the upcoming release.
I had to run the gangsta model through Netfabb to get OpenSCAD to take it, so I uploaded the fixed version.
This is also a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:14472

EDIT: I loaded it into meshlab, which made it pretty easy to smooth the line at the base of the neck attachment area. I uploaded a new version with the smoothing, which is a lot smaller for some reason.

It's a double-ended hook. Rather like a shower curtain hook.

This is my take on the worlds oldest continuously played board game Go. Dating back over 2000 years.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_game

This started out as a way to make a Go board that could be played in a moving vehicle, but it quickly morphed into what you see today. This modular set of Go board pieces can be used to create any n*n size Go board you want as well as arbitrary shapes. If really adds a new dimension to playing Go when you have obstacles or other shapes.

Each piece contains a 5 mm magnetic ball and is free to rotate inside the piece to create a perfect alignment with the center of the grid. I would imagine this board would be useful for people that lack the fine motor skills to accuracy place pieces on a standard Go board.

Video demonstration of board and pieces
youtube.com/watch?v=NZMIMVO_rrA

I always wished they would make this one.

Update: I cleaned up the merged area of the trilego so that a 2x2 block can attach to the bottom. Also added flat (1/3) block STL files.

Want to make your own clothes? Have a Makerbot? :)

This is a design from a chilean designer called Mauricio Rojas, design is called "Telar para Valentina". I (my makerbot) made the plastic parts. This is a work in progress (soon I will add the details for the wood)

I used aprox 1 lb. of white abs 3 mm plastic (pieces printed in 30% fill). About 4 days of printing (20 hours). The big parts (regletal.stl) require a very nice calibrated machine, this is why I used: thingiverse.com/thing:14174 to achieve outstanding quality!

FabScan - Affordable 3D Laser Scanning of Physical Objects

The images on the left show some scans made by the scanner.
The software allows to automatically produce a .stl of the scanned pointcloud.

For more information on the project check this site: hci.rwth-aachen.de/FabScan

Just simplified the script a bit and added an offset for extruders like wades. For my Printrbot-Variant I am working on tesla893.blogspot.com/2011/12/printrbot-part-1.html .

Here's my standard 100x160mm sized PCB heated bed. Since I couldn't find a heated bed this size I designed my own. If you supply it with 12V it get's about 125 deg. C.

I also made a manual temp. controller for it using a 555 timer ic, because my printer supply couldn't give more power to also supply the heated bed. The temp. is controlled by the 555 timer duty cycle, you can change the temperature turning the potentiometer.

More info about it at jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/11/21/555-timer-controlled-heated-print-bed/

The ultimaker, at least the one I got, doesnt come with a cable clip for the heater and temp sensor cables. So I made one.

This bracelet has no clasp; instead you can stretch it over your hand and onto your wrist. It was inspired partially by the Springamathing: thingiverse.com/thing:12053. The design on the outside was inspired by MakeALot's link bracelet: thingiverse.com/thing:7354.

UPDATE: At the request of nycdesigner, a couple of alternate designs are now also available.

A tool to convert PNG images into 3D models. It currently exports models in STL and OpenSCAD formats and has a variety of parameters to control the output.

It has several kyllikki.github.com/png23d/examples.html examples and good kyllikki.github.com/png23d/ documentation.

The Images and files I have provided here are from the tools examples and are just scratching the surface of what can be achieved.

An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

This is a working zipper mechanism. I printed it as an experiment, inspired after the zipper on my wife's coat broke. (I don't think I can print a replacement, yet.) There might be applications to join small sections of a structure to make a large object, but mostly it's a toy.

This thing is derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:1528 and thingiverse.com/thing:12278

For those who would like to dine with Doctor Who.

The latest version of the Ultimaker lasercut drawings.
Material description is included in the file.

A derivative of the classic labyrinth game, my "New Art/ New Idea" toy improves upon the original design in that the user now has innumerable game top surfaces to master. With my included .stl file of the maze surface, users can upload, redesign, and print a completely new maze top to be reinstalled upon the existing base. 3-D printing can now push the boundaries of this pre-existing game concept. It’s Thing-a-verse-tastic!

Dun dun dun DUN DA DUN dun da dun…

Now you can have your very own Imperial Star Destroyer! This is a very long and challenging print; it took me about six hours with 0.2 mm layer height, 30 mm/sec perimeters and 50 mm/sec infill. Try it in silver PLA for that authentic Imperial feel!

This is an adequately close model of Magneto/Shaw's helmet from x-men first class. Total print time is about 25hrs.

Designed for a 7.5" head width. In hindsight it is a bit too big, and I would scale it by 7/7.5 if I were doing it again.

The first one was printed on a Fablicator.

fablicator.com

To those who have emailed me about the lack of files.. I'm updating the files please be patient no one is paying me to do this so progress is slow. My printer is also under repair and it will take some time to test my mods. The reason for the mods are to correct some problems and to back out changes made for the museum challenge as the entry was unsuccessful.

is my first attempt at a printable prosthetic hand. I have yet to finish the forearm and servo mounts... it all takes time. I have uploaded a 60% scale model for two reasons. One it has to fit within the guidelines of a particular competition and secondly it demonstrates the unique ability of 3D printers to rapidly produce the right size part for end use. eg from a child's to a very large man's hand. It also gives the user ability to upgrade or repair at home for a mere fraction of what this type of prosthetic currently costs. If any company or individual is interested in this work feel free to contact me.

I really like the flex box, but it lacked a little in size. So I sized it up, gave it press fitting parts and an unobtrusive snap-lock for the lid. On top of that, it was the last day at work for my colleague Siert (who will be working at Ultimaker from now on), so I made this as a gift. Unfortunately Siert himself was ill at the day of his going-away party/mourning, he will have to find out about my gift through thingiverse :)

To those who have emailed me about the lack of files.. I'm updating the files please be patient no one is paying me to do this so progress is slow. My printer is also under repair and it will take some time to test my mods. The reason for the mods are to corrects some problems and to back out changes made for the museum challenge as the entry was unsuccessful.

My redesign (derivative) upgrade of a classic toy from my childhood, the original one still can be purchased in shops but they do NOT fly horizontally. This one does, in fact it can even fly over houses and get lost! Lucky we can print another! It improves our world because when you pull the cord and it flies off horizontally the gyroscopic effect tracks it straight and level and gives you a big grin. Smiling people are happy and happy people make the world a better place. It takes advantage of the accuracy with which a 3D printer creates parts to produce a very precise aerodynamic and balanced flying toy that only works well due to the precision of a 3D printer. I'm designing different Prop Rockets for it say tuned :-) bigger faster further!

Updated to identify the aspects for the new museum challenge

This is a toilet paper holder. You can use it to hold toilet paper. This is a good thing to have for when you have toilet paper, but nothing to hold it with.

This is a mounting bracket and bowden tube connector for two 5ml syringes.
They are fixed to the right side of the ultimaker extruder head. it is designed to be light (when not in use), so it can be left on your printer. It does reduce your maximum x-stroke a bit.

It is designed to print chocolate (or any other material).
You may use the bowden tube, future alterations might include a pressure dispense connector or lead screw drive (work in progress!)

Update: Newer version with encoder schematics: thingiverse.com/thing:15081

This panels enable you to set parameters from the firmware (e.g. max-speeds, accelerations and such, and store the settings in eeprom).
You can choose file from the sd card, and print them.
Also, you can home, monitor temperature, and do other fancy stuff.

It requires my fork of the Marlin/reprap firmware:
github.com/bkubicek/Marlin
In the configuration, you have to enable ULTIPANEL

For true autonomous printing, you have to connect a 12V fan output to Vin pin on the Ultimaker PCB, so the arduino is powered by the 12V created from the 19V supply. Direct connection is not recommended, 12V is safer.


The design is rather bad, and a new panel is in nearly finished right now.
The large PCB are makes in unreasonable to produce.
Its a proof of concept mainly.

There are two single-sided PCBs, one carrying the LCD, the other the interactive parts.
The are videos of the whole thing in action:

Initially the menu used all available keys
youtube.com/watch?v=B9uFdrKghi0

Now marlin features a new menu system, that Joris helped design. Its only uses the encoder to turn, and one click button, that in the production version will an encoder-push-button.
youtu.be/4pL8Y0NA92c

Fully printable, functional mini clamps. Capable of maintaining up to five pounds of clamping force.

Mini Clamp with 85mm clamping capacity

Mini Spreader Clamp with 110mm capacity

Changes made:

Slightly shorter to better fit the TOM build platform

Jaw changed to slide more easily on Bar

Lip added to Jaw and to Wedge for easier one handed clamping/unclamping.

Three more sizes of Wedges. Wedge2 is the standard size. If the jaw fits too loosely or too tightly, try one of the other sizes. The "ClampWedges" file has one of each size of wedge so that you can test the different fits.

Added the Spreader Clamp

Added 140mm blank Bar

Today's mission is for all of you to go to the Brain Slug Planet, and just walk around not wearing a helmet.

Inspired by:
paperkraft.blogspot.com/2008/04/futurama-papercraft-brain-slug.html

*EDIT 9/19/11* Uploaded lowpoly flat-bottom version and SKP file so you can edit to your heart's content.