Ever wonder why all the iris boxes on Thingiverse have five leaves?

With six or more leaves, the leaves have to overlap each other when the box is opened. That requires a more complex leaf shape, but also opens up some interesting design possibilities.

This 8-leaf iris box can be printed with the upper and lower parts of the leaves in contrasting colors. When the box is closed only the top part of the leaves are visible. As the box is opened the bottom piece is exposed. I printed this with black tops and yellow bottoms, and the effect in the pictures is striking.

This model requires no screws or other hardware, though some glue may be needed to hold the two parts of the leaves together depending on the tolerances of your printer. All parts print without support.

This is a simple standard model of a dice where one STL file represents the dice body and the other represents the dots.

The Bukobot Fly was originally made to test out some features of my Bukobot 3D printer prototype and experiment with thin layers. Then I got curious to see if I can actually make it fly..and I did!

First 3D printable hand glider?

Not sure if it's the first flying 3D printable mini airplane, but I couldn't find one anywhere that was small enough to fit on 8x8 platform and didn't require motors.

The Bukobot Fly has a 9" wingspan and 0.4mm thick wings.

VERY CHALLENGING PRINT!!!
This might be a tough print to do. It took me a few tries to get a decent first layer for the wings because the crappy PLA I had was very inconsistant in thickness... But if your platform is level and your material is good, it should work. Layer height should be set to about 0.1mm with a very flat platform and I recommend using PLA for the stiffness. Also, platform needs to be at least 7x7 inches to print at 100% size, not sure if it'll work any smaller, but should work bigger possibly.

Printed on a Bukobot 3D printer thingiverse.com/thing:21746

UPDATE!!! I got video of it flying!!!
youtube.com/watch?v=xQsI0d0aw8Y

I originally created this 3d file about 12 years ago for an old PC game project called GL_Tron. When I received my Thing-O-Matic last summer, this model kit is one of the first projects I thought about creating. After many hours modifing the original model it's finally it's done!

EDIT: I have now included individual part files per request.

This a regular icosahedron built in one line in OpenSCAD using no libraries, and only the value of phi as an input. I made it into a D20 by generating and placing the numbers on the surface, all in one additional line (with TBuser's bitmap font module as an input: thingiverse.com/thing:2054 ). I also included a version with all twenties to satisfy Makerblock's challenge ( makerbot.com/blog/2011/09/29/openscad-challenge-regular-icosahedron/#comment-15998 ) and take home the imaginary prize for the most efficient/elegant solution (I only took on the challenge because I wanted to see how short a script I could write to do it).

I wanted to generate the numbers numerals myself, and I considered roman numerals, seven-segment numerals, and various binary encodings, but I ended up using the library because I realized that there just isn't (currently?) an elegant way to generate numbers in OpenSCAD (and I'll give my 9000 internet points to anyone who can convince me otherwise).

Because the real point of this Thing in my mind is the conciseness of the code, here it is:


include ;

phi = (1+ sqrt(5))/2;

scale(20) translate([0, 0, cos(atan((phi - 1) / phi)) * phi]) rotate([0, atan((phi - 1) / phi * 2), 0]) difference() {
intersection_for(a = [0:4]) rotate([0, 31.75, 72 * a]) intersection_for(r = [[0,0,0],[90,90,0],[90,0,90]]) rotate(r) linear_extrude(height = 10, center = true) polygon(points=[[phi,1],[phi,-1],[0,-phi],[-phi,-1],[-phi,1],[0,phi]], paths=[[0,1,2,3,4,5]]);
for(n = [1:20]) rotate([180 * (ceil(n / 10) % 2), atan((phi - 1) / phi * 2) + atan((phi - 1) / phi) * 2 * (ceil((n - 5) / 10) % 2), 180 + 72 * n]) translate([0, 0, 1.5 - .1]) scale(0.008) for(d = [0, floor(log(n))]) translate([0, 35 * floor(log(n)) + d * -70, 0]) 8bit_char(str(floor(n % pow(10, d + 1) / pow(10, d))), 10, 100, false);
}

Relying on a quirk of Blender's subdivision operator, I found I was able to make a fairly attractive dot-based D4.

The idea here is that you have one position with three dots facing up, one with two, one with one and one with zero. To me at least it looks lovely and science-fictiony, for all you space-rogues out there...

After seeing the original design I wanted to make versions for some different phones, unfortunately this wasn't possible with scaling alone so I decided to copy the design in OpenSCAD and make if fully parametric up to and including the design of the TOP and the embossed LOGO.

My wife and I both use Crest Spinbrush toothbrushes but our new bathroom doesn't have a great place to set them. We decided to use a little soap dish alcove but out toothbrushes kept falling over and onto the floor. It was time for a solution. Modeled in OpenSCAD this holder will fit 2 toothbrushes and give them a solid base to not fall over.

As a gift for two friends of mine who's wedding I am officiating, I slightly modified and printed these two owls based (almost completely) on the excellent model by Cushwa.

I just added the top hat and flower head-band.

Enjoy!

Although the Galaxy Nexus Dock by tlipoma ( thingiverse.com/thing:15805 ) is solid and has served me well, there were some problems that were nagging me:

Problem #1: My phone didn't sit snug--it would wobble around. This is tantamount to "wonk", which should be avoided at all costs.

Problem #2: The USB cable would not stay in the channel that runs out the back of the dock. It would come out if I undocked, and I would have to manually align the cable with the channel every time I wanted to re-dock the phone.

Problem #3: My phone doesn't do anything cool and "docky" when I dock my phone!!! I want dock mode!!!

Solution to #1: Get some Sugru and wedge it into the corners of your dock. Wet the Sugru down with soapy water, dock your phone, undock your phone, and let the Sugru cure. Thanks, Sugru! sugru.com/

Solution #2 to #1 (not implemented here): Make some adjustments to tlipoma's Dock2.stl in OpenSCAD or something. This is a lame solution to be posted in a derivative, as tlipoma should adjust the dock width himself and post in his thing page. Hey! Your Galaxy Nexus is the same width as mine, tlipoma! You should be feeling this pain as well!

Solution to #2: Put some cable guide clips in there. This works amazingly well, and was a no-brainer to add to tlipoma's design.

Solution to #3: Put an NFC sticker on the dock's backrest and write some Android code that performs some cool "docky" actions when it detects the NFC tag. Note: Please contact me if you want to see my android code. It's pretty straightforward if you know your Android API, but a nightmare if you are a beginner. My example code will help. :)

The Mendocino Motor is a solar powered, magnetically levitating electric motor.

I've used this project in my classroom for a while. Since I no longer have a woodshop in my class, I'm reworking it as a 3D printed design.

Here are photos: flickr.com/photos/connors934/sets/72157629433089119/ The pictures show the process of iteratively developing the idea, and not all designs will be represented in these files.

2-24-12-This zip file contains some developments. The most significant part added is the four way connector that fits inside the magnets, and also has three holes sized to fit a standard pencil.

3-6-12
Connectors4 and MirrorConnectors are the two 3D printed parts you'll need along with two standard pencils to make the base.
The G code is for a Makerbot Cupcake with Heated Build Platform.

3-31-12
Video: youtu.be/gR2-wXdhSDc

I found lots of issues with thing:19026 when I tried to slice it. The positioning of the parts in the model appeared to be eyeballed and it required a lot of unnecessary supports. This one should print without support, and of course it's completely parametric.

with the experimental firmware and upgrades that are on my bot right now, I haven't managed to finish a print of this yet, and I probably won't get another chance to try for a few days, so I thought I'd post it now and see if anyone else wants to try.

Here's a visualization of roughly what it should look like in action: plus.google.com/105535247347788377245/posts/cB7JWab1Mo4

Simple three-gimbal gyroscope toy.

Inspired by the awesome Skill Badges from Adafruit, It only seemed right to have a 3D printable version of the 3D printing badge.

Now you can REALLY earn that 3D printing badge!

Customize your bot with these cool robot arms!

Attach them to your Makerbot Replicator and increase its carrying capacity.

Great for when you need that extra set of hands.

Designed by Todd Blatt

This is designed to fit CDMA version with the extended battery and cover. erikjonpeterson designed it to snap on an existing Motorola suction cup mount from a droid bionic car dock.

forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23902144&postcount=16

Disclamer - this isn't my design. I just posted it here to hopefully give it more visibility.

This a Teensy based IR blaster that lets you control most IR receiving devices from a computer via a serial port (emulated over USB by the Teensy).

Print the lid using transparent filament so you can see the cool glow of the on-board LED!

See for details:

friday.com/bbum/2012/03/17/teensy-based-ir-blaster/

I don't like the long spur on the front of the top part of the case. It doesn't print well. As the overhang isn't that great, printing a simple hole on the front of the case would like be a better alternative.

Modeled with ViaCAD; files included.

UPDATE: Added "Simple" variants; the simple variant includes a tighter, simpler, lid without a long tab and the box has a simple LED hole instead of the slot.

UPDATE2: Even more simple; I discovered that the IR LED is powerful enough that it can broadcast through the translucent filament material without issue. Thus, no more hole needed for the LED!

A pill bottle for a keychain that will hold 3 - 4 8mm or so diameter pills. Designed for a co-worker that is allergic to bees and has to carry some pills around.

This is the next version of the 3D printable quadcopter.

youtube.com/watch?v=MtMYRgkvqsk

The PL1Q Vampire was the first. Now continuing on the mythological creatures naming-scheme here is the PL2Q Hugin. I have put a lot of thought in to this one, but i fear it will fly away one day..

Love Risk? Hate those toy soldiers the new versions come with? Or have you just lost too many pieces?

Here are two different classic style risk men. My personal favorite or the roman numerals. They make counting the units in a territory quick and easy. Then there are the star form. As I didn't know exactly how many pieces a player needs, I did some heavy google searching to come up with a rough ratio.

Star form => 40:20:10
Roman Numeral form => 40:16:16:8
You will need to print 2 sheets of your desired form for each player


3 peaks => 1 army
4 peaks => 5 armies
5 peaks => 10 armies


I have included the source SCAD files for those who want to adjust the size or style. You can actually fit all the pieces onto one print with the Thing-O-Matic, IF you do not need a raft.

This is Derivative from dataman android. I made a niche within the body. The head became a detachable part.

Hey everybody! Who likes Box and Lid?

Golly, I know I do!

If you do too, here's a Box and Lid for you!


Note: I gave the lid a little wiggle room in the .scad file, so experiment if you want a lid with a tighter fit. The smaller wiggle_room is, the less of it there is. Default wiggle_room = 1, so you might want to set to wiggle_room = 0.75 or something.

Single walled low res hi quality cup, printed is 17min 12 sec...!

see also facebook.com/europerminutedesign

A twisting triangle-to-circle portal to beverage and/or pencil holding bliss.

Tiki scan with and without cup cut into it using the attached OpenSCAD script. Tiki Cup should make a cool pen holder.

Scanned with Spinscan thingiverse.com/thing:9972

This is a cup for playing liar's dice:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liar%27s_dice

Someone said V-12 and I heard you! This one is very simmilar to my V-8 but with the addition of a modular section that allows you to make any size; want a V-24? no problem, want a V-6 ? You got it! Perhaps something strange like an in line-8 or 6...weird! Motor on demand!

There is a complete single tray file for those who have the printer footprint for it other wise single part types per tray for colour printing and I have added the source file so you can play, enjoy!

I am printing one today (started 11:30 am Sunday) I will have pictures tonight!

All done! 7.5-8 hours of printing time and 15-20 minutes to assemble.

UPDATE I have added a larger piston. It should fit a bit tighter but requires good settings.

I use the metabrick by wizard23 as my standard "quick print to flush a colour change through". Since I have a bunch now, I thought I would whip up some compatible parts for a bit of variety.

Clip them together to make bigger objects

This is a simple stand to allow you to charge and have accessible a Nexus one phone upright. Will work with any android phone that has a micro usb charge point at the bottom center of the phone.

I've included the SCAD file so that you can widen it for other phones including iPhone.