This is a helical version of Ed Lenz' Lenz2 turbine blade. His homepage is here windstuffnow.com/main/lenz2_turbine.htm

Dimensions: this should give a 120mm diameter, 160mm height windmill.

2013-06-09: Hey look, I made a larger one - thingiverse.com/thing:99132

31-5-2013: I managed to print the last layer last week and the turbine is now spinning in the wind. I started thinking about making a larger version of this that i can still print on the 200mm print bed.
The larger version that i am working on is going to be mounted on a electric bicycle brushless 3 phase hub motor of about 200 Watts. It will also use aluminium arms (20×2mm flat) instead of the plastic ones.
The new thing id will follow later.

18-05-2013: Crud, broke the pulley on my 3D printer, posted the picture of it on a wooden stick on the back of my shed. It only has 2 layers now, 3rd one later when I fix the printer.

18-05-2013: Just uploaded a double bearing holder so I can mount it on a 44x44mm wooden pole. The bearings I am using have a 32mm outer diameter. They are not really the correct size for a 12cm diameter windmill. I'm planning a larger one for later. The bearing holder doesn't print very well, word of caution.

I've also reuploaded the single blades for 30 and 40 degrees which now have a 1 degree resolution. Same thing, looks nicer, takes longer to slice.

Also turns out you can print 3 single blades and a hub on a single 20x20 bed. When printing on scale 1:1 you can apparently print these without support which makes them look a lot prettier.

Printing a single blade at 0.3mm height takes about 1 hour 45 minutes here. Printing 3 at once with hub is about 4 hours. Seems like a good deal.

16-05-2013: Uploaded a hex center hub to mount the single blades on. I'll probably add a hex nut cage on it for easier assembly. Perhaps nut cages on the blade mounting hole would make sense too.

15-05-2013: I just uploaded a new single blade with mounting hole which can be mounted on a central. That way you can mount 3 of these for a single 1/3 rotation (40 degrees of 120) 53,3mm high helical form. This allows for making a larger version(s) with the limitation that 3D printers have in build volume.

With repetier host you can easily scale a single blade by a factor of 3 to get a 160mm high single blade. That would result in a 480mm high windmill! Still working on the central hub, still evaluating CAD programs to do my bidding.

14-05-2013: I'll be adding seperate blades with different heights and a hub carrier so it's easier to print larger versions with the restricted print bed size. Should have this done this week.

I don't recommend printing the entire helix with supports, as these will overlap with the next blade. (That won't be a issue with seperate blades)

The model is a bit too complicated for Sketchup, which it also imports every dimension multiplied by 25,4. That means it is doing the unit conversion wrong. That is a issue with the STL importer for Sketchup.

These STL files are hole free and should go through Slic3r without warnings.

A mount for 80mm fans, to be bolted onto a wood or plexiglass surface. Intended to be pointed at a print in progress for cooling, but other uses are-.... permitted. If you ask nicely ;P

This was done as a fun, group build at the Chicago Hackerspace, Pumping Station One. The goal was to make a super simple very small delta. It was more for the fun of the build than anything practical.

We used a stationary extruder and a moving build area because it actually made more sense at this size. The build area is about 100mm diameter and about 50mm tall.

To satisfy the people who said it looked upside down, we actually tried it upside down...it worked. See the video here.

youtu.be/mS2b9j2ok0M

There is a bolg post with all the details here and the complete source files are available.

buildlog.net/blog/2013/04/the-quantum-delta-3d-printer/

Click view full size on the images because Thingiverse is cropping them in the preview window. On most screen it might actually be full size :-)

Update: I added some recent features.
1: Magnetic base. This makes it easier to get parts of the base.
2: I lazy susan filament feeder.
3: Some lighting.

Read about the upgrades here.

buildlog.net/blog/2013/04/quantum-delta-3d-printer-updates/

I have access to many types of printers and this little guy is making the best prints of all of them.

Just somenthing to kill some time.
Maybe it's usefull in case I must to go out for a long time and in the meanwhile I want to print a full kit.

Update: added the plate for the extruder (body, gears) and 3 bearing guides.

WORK IN PROGRESS!

KEEP CALM and BERRY ON!

Printed the first copy with ZPrinter 650. Fits like a glove!

INFO:
Two hole sizes of 4.2 and 3.2 mm. So you can tap the 3.2 hole for M4 hex socket bolt. Used black hex socket bolts on first design.
Original font of KEEP CALM and CARRY ON.


TODO:
- Need to remove heat sinks (was designed for aluminium)
- Need to add *.DWG for lasercutting the plastic for LED.
- Add colour codes in description.

Rather than spend time printing springs for a project, I made this little mold to make them out of raw 3mm PLA filament. It measures 3/4" by 3" tall. Since there are no shear planes in this twisted filament, the springs it creates will be a lot tougher than anything printed.

I think this concept could be used to produce torsion springs as well as conical compression springs with different molds.

If you wrapped the filament around a dowel with the sides of the filament touching, you could make an extension spring instead of a compression spring.

After purchasing a Panelolu from Think3dPrint3d I decided to shrink it down and incorporate it in my new Prusa i3 frame!

To be able to embed the display in the aluminium frame I had to down size the LCD to a 16x2 which I had lying around.

This is now fully up and running on my printer.
Enjoy!

I needed a way to connect RotoScan's cable chain to my ShapeOko. These brackets clip onto the X and Y steppers to provide a simple connection point for the cable chain.

I made some feet to space the Rostock printer a little higher so the Electronics and power supply had a bit more room and to aid airflow

3mm version of thingiverse.com/thing:44291

directly fixed to the motor fast/easy/light !

SUPREME EXTRUDER !!!!

with 624 and 605 bearings.

more infos on 3dita.blogspot.it/2013/04/miniextruder-fala-i3.html

The definitive EXTRUDER for i3 !!!!
-improved x stability
-improved design
-less part to print
-less size

TRY IT !

For more test and design history and improvements
3dita.blogspot.com

ive modified twelvopros design with the back braces to fit m10 threaded rod on the y axis, and upgraded alot of printed parts to be CNC cut out of 1/8" aluminum to match the 1/4" CNC'd aluminum frame. i3XL (300x300mm) is in development, look at the derivative for a sneek peek!!!
note: the stl files are from twelvopro
to mount a buda schnozzle or prusa nozzle to the x carriage use-- thingiverse.com/download:147063, (the buddasch_i3 file)
to mount a j head use --
thingiverse.com/thing:8252, ( the wades wildeyed mount file)

This is a printer frame based on the Air 2 by Mecano.

It can increase your print height by 60mm or 2.3 inches (depending on your hot end)

The printable height has been increased to 150mm (w/ Budaschnozzle) by extending the laser cut frame and flipping the z axis motors to the bottom of the printer. This printer can be assembled with the same smooth and threaded rods used for an Air 2 (The photos show a printer using 395mm smooth rods on all axis. The renders show the frame with the original Air 2 rod lengths)

This is a work in progress. Any and all suggestions for improvement are welcome.

**EDIT: Added low-poly versions of frame and motor brackets for faster slicing.**

Features:

* 190mm x 190mm x 150mm print area

* z motors flipped to bottom of printer

* printed braces for increased frame rigidity. (all braces moved to rear of frame for cleaner aesthetic.)

* the top acrylic brace has been extended to the back of the printer to ensure square and make room for printed braces.

* the crosspiece has been heightened / widened to increase strength and open up the build envelope

* cable / filament routing

* additional threaded brace / filament spool holder. (this is optional, but it seems to stiffen the frame. it is similar to Airwolf3d design but moved outside of 150mm printable area in z axis)

* all curves from RepRap Air 2 design removed in favor of chamfers

* unnecessary holes / slots removed.

* can use same "vitamins", smooth and threaded rods as or Air 2 (as shown smooth rods on z are cut to 395)

Design based largely on RepRap Air 2 by Mecano, ideas and parts from Lulzbot, Airwolf3d, and RepRapPro. thanks!

This is a linear delta 3D printer based on Johann's Rostock which has been enlarged to acomodate roughly double the print volume.

All of the 3D printed & laser cut parts have been made thanks to the Artilect Fablab Toulouse.

This is still work in progress so below you will find a blog like story of the build & set-up:

- 15/06/2009 Refined calibration
- Refined the calibration of the extruder folowing the process proposed by:
- Triffid Hunter: reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide
- Tantillus: tantillus.org/Tutorials.html

- Performed retraction calibratio, After fiddeling with various retraction values & extra lengt values I did not notice much improvments or even much difference until I stumbled on this discussion forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,156806,157207 and this Blog: systematictechnology.net/?tag=calibration where I understood that my max feedrate should be around 10mm/s and before it was set to 100 or 200mm/s which was way to high but it did not strike me as Repetier you set filament speed around 100 but mm/min & not mm/s.



- 09/06/2013 Some Updates
- Demonstrated the printer at the Artilect Fablab Toulouse on the 03/06 (Picture of it being re assembled there). artilect.fr/
- Added cable tentioner to allow speed increase without shacking
- Insulated the hotend to be able to perform efficient cooling without affecting hotend temperature thingiverse.com/thing:101104
- Chased play in the wade extruder drive.

- 25/05/2013 First Perfect Print !
- As on small part there were thermal issues I decided to test larger prints.
- I went for the 6 sided Vase from
MaakMijnIdee thingiverse.com/thing:18672
- Printed with blue PLA 0.2mm layer thickness, 207°C for first layer & 197°C for the others, speed 40% of prusa std settings (5hour print time)
- The result excellent :) It will be time to accelerate...

- 22/05/2013 Biger & More precise but stil thermal issues
- Slightly tightened the belts to improve acuracy
- Went for the large Lucy the cat (in blue) with no ventilation & still at low velocity
- Low parts where excellent with a good prescision of the layers
- One can notice a problem around the head of the cat which give it a frog attitude. This was due to excessive softening of the material & partial colapse.

- 21/05/2013 Post mortem & Back to life
- Went to see the E-Motion Tech people with my dead J-Head and after post mortem analysis they figured out that the termistor reading was not correct it should be around 90k Ohms and was 120k. They where very kind & helped me to restore the head.
- Now back to life calibrating properly the thermistor.

- 20/05/2013 The J-Head lost it's head!
- Trying to print another lucy the cat after tightening the belt to get a bit more prescision, Extrusion was not going well again. I tried to do a manual extrude, temperature was set @ 210°C, there it felt strange the extruder stepper's seemed to force significantely jumping some steps but the PLA was only going out lazily.
- Sudently I the head started to move & poped out before I could stop the mains power.

- 19/05/2013 Fighting with the Cat
- Today I tried to print something beter than a cube but still relatively small & simple So I went for Lucy the cat thingiverse.com/thing:24255 which is small & rather low difficulty.
- Yesturday wen printing the cube I realised that it required cooling so I installed a PC fan (which was the cause of follow up difficulties)
- As you can see on the second row of the picture there has been several failures before getting something that looks like the STL. To make a long story short temperature is measured on the top part of the Brass part of the J-Head hotend, which hsa been a bit isolated with layers of kapton tape. however the tip of the hotend is not insulated and would get some degrees colder suficiently to reach very hygh viscosity of the PLA dramatically reducing the flow.
and at the same time cloging the teeth of the filament pushing axis.
- Increasing temperature by 10° & cleaning the extruder was the solution.
- Looking at the last Lucy printed it is not yet perfect the layers are not well alligned, so my next task will be to fight the play to ensure everything is alligned.
- In addition I need to work on the extruder as for the moment the Wade's extruder sit on top of the platform limiting the movment of the printers and I have not yet ordered the tube to make the bowden extruder which was initially planned. As I start to realise that booth systems have different advantage & weekness. I guess the solution could be to devise an interchangable system able to do booth.

- 18/05/2013 Geting a bit better...
- Just made two more print reducing temperature & extruder feed and now it start to look as a very small cube 10mmx10mm. (see the picture)

- 17/05/13 First Print!!!
- After fighting without sucess to have Repetier working I guess I will need to get an atmega1284 to replace the 644 that came with the Gen7 but which lacks memory for Delta printers.
- I finnaly manage to get a 10uH self to replace the 100uH original one and got rid of the brown outs
- Over the week I had to transport the printer a few hundred kilometers by car and apparently it did notlike it as play started to appear on some components and notably the joints.
- Very late tonight I finally manage to attempt a first print: a 10mm cube, there was to much plastic feed and the hot end was too hot, so the result is not great see the picture and the video youtu.be/8jBBFH91Mn0.
- Still some work to do to have high quality prints. Any way I'm very happy to be finnaly able to have a first print.

- 12/05/13 A bit frustrating
- I finnally managed to have the repeter firmware heating the hot end (the temperature measurement will need calibration)
- For some strange reason it needs to be on the bed sensor plug & not the extruder, I guess I'l need to go & see in the Pin layout of the firmware.
- But with repetier I do not manage to get the axis moving !
- So I have the axis moving on the Marlin & extruder heating on Repetier...

- 11/05/13 Trying to get it hot
- Assambled the hot end
- Assambled the extruder (Wade) initial plan was tu use it deported (Bowden) with a Teflon tube to link it to the hot end but I do not yer have the tube so it will be mounted directly on the platform. limiting speed & amplitude in the mean time.
- With a friend we assembled the hot end to the extruder and then tryed it on the board. We were quite disapointed to see that there was still a 0°C temperature reading. I just realosed now that on the 06/05 the quick fix that I used to stop the broun out problem disables the temperatures. and I could not yet purchace the termistance to definately correct the brownout problem.
- Therfore I tryed the Repetier-firmware with the lower memory settings & it seems to work. (it still needs to be configured properly for the rest.
- Tryed again the heater with the Repetier-Firmware and there it was displaying -55°C which felt strange as earlier we tested the thermistor resistance & it was around 114k Ohms.


- 10/05/13 Plenty of problems & some solutions:
- After all the problem described bellow it finaly made some first decent drawings see the video: youtu.be/04nmR4zaZQw
- Marlin Configuration Files & Test STL used for the drawings added to the downloadable files.
- Found the solution for the homming problems from yesturday Had to reduce Max speed in the firmware.
- Still one of the axis was not moving properly. At first I thought it was losing steps so I tried to increase the Driver's Current without sucess, I even switched the Drivers without results, to finnaly find that it was the pulley that was not tight enough.
- Once that was solved I went back to drawing experiments and for some reason the drawings were to small & the overal movements where shorter than expected, after verifying all the set-up of the firmware was more or less correct found one error on the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET which was 22 on the original rostock & now is 28.0mm but this did not solve the main problem. Therfore I started to measure the belt pitch which was 2.5mm as expected and I went to count the numbers of teeth and there I understood where the problem was comming from: The pulley which I thought was an 18teeth one was in fact a 16teeth one. Once this corrected in the firmware It gave much better results.
- Still some issues of steps lost from time to time
- Glonally it looks rather sensitive to the speed the 400 steps per revolution & the 16 teeth T2.5 pulley means that it is hitting the maximum steps/s limits of the arduino
- On top of that there is some issues of repetability of the starting height due to the endstops set-up which is not yet perfect
- With all this I did not get a chance to try again the Repeter Firmware.


- 09/05/13
- Installation of end-stops
- Start of calibration
- It made it's first drawings (It is not great for the time being)
- Some issues with homming: when moves comands are sent it moves correctely but when homming the steppers vibrates and nothing moves. I assume it is a error in my ste-up of the firmware, or too low current in the stepers drivers TBC.
- Had some feedback on the issue with Repetier forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,206320 which should come from an excess usage of memory so I will try to lower the memory useage as advised and I will let you know.

- 07/05/13 Platform fitted & moving
- Diagonal rods Cut from The carbon Arrows & glued to the Jaws
- Got some extra MDF to rigidify the structure at some later point
- Fitted Diagolal rods & Platform to the Printer
- Tried some movements: it is not perfectely flat yet nor rapid but it is going the right way. Here is a video of some of the first moves youtu.be/qAyjTx0MV_U
- The Z stepper seems a bit week I will need to adjust the power on the driver.

- 06/05/13 IT MOVES!!!
- Did not work on the structure today
- Temporarly gave-up on Repieter Firmware and moved to the modified Marlin by Johann
- Got Brown out issue on Marlin as described in the following thread github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/issues/174 Got to change L1 on the Gen7 V1.4.1 as explained on the last post. I used the temporary fix from the first post as I do not require heating.
- Had to invert the Pinning of the steppers for them to turn on the correct direction
- For some strange reason the M80 comand needs to be entered manually
- Now all the three axis moves corectly on delta mode!

- 05/05/13 Now it looks like something
- Installed The belts & Steppers on each axis
- Assembled the Three Axes with the frame
- Still fighting with Repetier Firmware to make it work in delta mode

- 04/05/13 Start of the assembly
- The three columns of the printer are now complete
- All motors & endstops are properly wired & tested on cartesian mode
- Configured & uploaded the delta mode of Repetier but for some reason the stepers do not move in delta mode. Still need to beter understand config...

- 03/05/13 Back to the printer after a forced pause.
Today I have been playing with the Gen7 & the stepers:
- Ran the Test set-up with sucess
- Installed the repetier firmware 0.82.2 & tested with sucess the cartesian mode steppers turning ok.
- Started to set-up the delta mode of the repetier firmware but haven't had the time to test it today.

Enlarged version of Johann's Rostock adapted with the folowing features:
- 400x400x500mm expected build area
- 0.08mm theoretical vertical presision (400step/rev + 18 teeth T2.5 Pulley)
- Carriages with self tensioning & play elimination

It is just the begining... Almost everything is available now it is time to start building.












To be Continued

My first attempt of creating a 3D printer. It is for my A-Level Product Design and loosely based on the MendalMax - but all my own design. The only two parts that are a near exact copy of other parts are the direct drive extruder by *raldrich* and *droftart's* parametic pulleys. I have simply converted the extruder to use a NEMA 14 stepper rather than the geared motor.

The idea was to make a simple to build printer using as few nuts and bolts as possible and maximum printed parts. Also I wanted to have a double extrusion system as well. Build volume is 200x200x170mm on one extruder or about 200x150x170 with both extruders

I have no guarantees that this will even work - but I plan to eventually build it. I would welcome any constructive comments to improve it. Also any suggestions for a better name would be great ;)

Once I start to order parts I will update a BoM on here. I have tried to keep it so that all the parts are the same throughout the printer (same linear bearings, bearings, 8mm rod to all axis' etc) to reduce the number of different parts to order.

Attached is the SketchUp file of the complete fabricator - again I will update with STL's of parts as I start to build.

**Update 16/06/2013**
Finally finished the design and have printed, and built, all of the printer. Currently updating this page with all the new STLs and SketchUP file. Now I have to wait until I can afford to buy the steppers, electronics, power supply and hotends! STLs have now been uploaded.

*Update 12/06/2013*
Continued building the machine now have the Y and Z axis installed. Did make a small error of forgetting to put the bearings on the rod before I installed them! I am hoping by the end of the week that I shall have all the parts printed and ready to go. I will then be waiting on steppers, electronics and the hotend.

*Update 31/05/2013*
Changed from using the MXL pulley gear from *RepRapPro* to *droftart's* parametric T5 one.

*Update 29/05/2013*
Started build. Pictures uploaded of frame progress.

*Update 21/05/2013*
Started ordering so here is the link to the [BoM](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkDkay4qK0WYdGVGTmZ2c2RKeHVka1U1U2 U3enRjd0E&usp=sharing)

*Update 18/05/2013*
Added the STLs. The carriage is still not complete as I have yet to decide on a hotend etc. Also haven't added the extruder yet - although the current design can be pulled from the SketchUp file.

This is a simple drill or spindle mount which fits onto a standard Prusa X carriage in place of an extruder/hotend (I use . It is made for tools that have a standard 43mm mounting neck. I use an old Minicraft MB510 mini drill (9-18V, 60W, 20000rpm), but since the 43mm collar is quite standard, I assume that the mount will fit many other tools as well (eg. from Proxxon or Dremel). Just make sure that your tool is not too heavy and that mount and x-carriage do not occlude any ventilation holes of your particular tool.

Smaller version of my previously uploaded cheap CNC

Presented worm gear reducer with module 1.5 and 60x10 (6:1) teeth on driven gear and minimalistic frame that hold all details together. Also included motor adapter that I used to connect motor to worm part. All details connected using M4 bolts and nuts.

A small earbud spool with a box area to protect the buds from crush damage.

Prusa 3 16mm wood printable parts

- Parts are one-per-file so that you can print the number you want
- The z top is now designed to fit a bearing to fix the threaded rod. Thanks to cadesigns.
- The y-axis-bracket is slimer to better-fix the bottom rods to the box

Most of these parts are originally by Josef Prusa, this is just a collection of them.

Inspired from the Thing thingiverse.com/thing:33102
i wanted to see if it is possible to make an 100% (or so) printed Parkflyer

Started at 1st of Jan evening the maiden Flight wasnt done till 6th due to weather so Build time is netto 20 Hours
Version 00 Just a try to learn and see if it does
Learning after 30Years Modelling changed a lot ;)-
Folies suck 100 times
The guy in the model shop sayed this motor will rip out of the model ,.. so i give it an try and we´ll see then i make it pretty ;)-

This is an end mount that I made for tosjduenfs' cable chain. It will screw into my bed mount plate with two #6 machine screws, and will guide my heat bed and thermistor wires, keeping them out of the way.

I have had an issue with my heater cables breaking where they attach to the heat bed because of the repeated flexing each time the y axis moves. This mounting plate will not let the cables flex until they reach the cable chain, which will in turn limit the diameter of any bends.

Wheels for 28mm (1/48) train wagons

This "thing" is a stub for the laser cut files for the Prusa i3 printer frame for use with wood, acrylic, and other thin material. Published under GPL v3, same as the Prusa i3.

Grab the files from my Github repository: github.com/sgraber/Prusa3_LC

I have provided three file types: dxf, eps, and pdf.

I wanted to make an enclosure for my desktop 3D scanner/turntable, so I don't have to turn the light off every time I want to scan something.

I managed to get some 3mm perspex covered in black vinyl, some at 400mm x 300mm and some at 300mm x 300mm. With these panels in hand, I thought maybe I can print some corner blocks and straight rails to join the panels together to form a black cover over my scanner/turntable. The key thing I have to achieve is to make sure no light is allowed into the box, so they have to join perfectly without any gaps.

Just for fun, something to keep that special someone in your life close at hand;-) Printed in PLA at 40% infill they are quite sturdy- although breakable in a pinch (a requirement in anything that encircles the neck). The rings work well with paracord.

The Large Collar has a 14cm internal diameter.
The Large Manacle's internal dimensions are 5.6 cm x 6.5 cm.

The Small Collar has a 12cm internal diameter.
The Small Manacle's internal dimensions are 4.9 cm x 6 cm.

This is a derivation of Josef Prusa YCorner for his Prusa i3. You can raise the smooth rods, giving more space to place your electronics or power supply under the heated bed.

It is reinforced by allowing to use nuts and bolts for tightening the smooth rods.

Finally is parametric, you can choose the height of the rods, as well as their radius.

Updated STL is for M8 threaded rods and M10 smooth rods. The smooth rod is placed at 75mm.

A self starting Vertical Axial Wind Turbine intended for domestic wind harvesting, but could be scaled to any application.

NACA 0015

This Arduino-controlled open-source automated filter-wheel changer is set up to move to 8 different filter positions. Normally these devices are used in scientific experiments that need good optics. Commercial versions cost over $2,500 and you can make this yourself for less than $50. So if you make just one -- you more than justify the purchase of your own open source 3-D printer!

This component is part of the open-source optics project, whose goal is to radically reduce the cost of scientific optical hardware: appropedia.org/Open_source_optics by the Michigan Tech's Open Sustainability Technology Research Group. mse.mtu.edu/MOST

This project was featured in an article in Science. Pearce, Joshua M. 2012. “Building Research Equipment with Free, Open-Source Hardware.” Science 337 (6100): 1303–1304. Listen to the podcast here talking about the future of open scientific hardware: sciencemag.org/content/337/6100/1303/suppl/DC1

Steam engine