This is part of the tweet controlled ping pong ball launcher made for the BBC world service radio show "Click"

This is the 5th redesign on the device, as designs that included a hopper were prone to jamming.

A video of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=iPG-ji3zt7A

ElectricLaboratory.com

This is a mdf made linbin.

Plastic linbins arn't cheap, and you can't just buy a few fold-able cardboard ones. So lasercut them instead!

Designed for 3mm material. I make mine out of mdf!

A device for holding open the pages in big books with your thumb while you read them.

A coworker saw something similar in one of those 'crazy product designs from Japan' articles. She asked if I could print her one based solely on the low res photo she showed me.

It's a fairly simple design so I quickly drew the 2D outline in Illustrator then proceeded to use a very convoluted process to ultimately get it into OpenSCAD using a number of techniques I'm still learning.

I'm sure there is a much easier method to build the model so please feel free to share any tips.

UPDATE: Of course after I post this, I discover that it's not the first...not having any terminology to go by, I was looking for the wrong thing. Looks like this was here first: thingiverse.com/thing:1120 and this is newer and closer to my design: thingiverse.com/thing:1747

This shield allows you to connect a HP C6602 inkjet cartridge to your Arduino turning it into a 96dpi print platform. It only uses 5 pins which can be jumper selected to avoid other shields. It is designed with a Arduino Mega footprint but fully supports both the Arduino and the Arduino Mega. It uses all through-hole components to make assembly easy even for beginners.

Features
Compatible with Arduino and Arduino Mega
Uses only 5 user selectable pins
Stackable (up to 11 Inkshields on Ardunio, 15 on Mega)
On-board 20V boost converter for inkjet head
Accepts 9-12V input via optional power connector or from the Arduino Vin
Auxiliary input header offers support for other microcontrollers
Auxiliary output header supports an extension cable to the inkjet head
Power and Pulse activity LEDs
ISCP header and Reset button
All through-hole components

This will be the first official release location. For the most current information visit:
nicholasclewis.com/inkshield/
github.com/NicholasCLewis/InkShield

A production run of this project was successfully funded via a Kickstarter here: kck.st/oAGeza

Description of files:
InkShieldLibrary.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (You should download the *NEW* version)
InkShieldLibraryNEW.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (updated version - found a few bugs when finishing the Mega version)
InkShieldMegaLibrary.zip - Arduino Mega Libraries/Examples
InkShieldLiteLibrary.zip - Minimal Arduino Libraries/Examples
InkShieldPCB.zip - Kicad Schematic and PCB Layout

Hello World! (My first Thingiverse upload.)

This is a printable, interlocking drying mat. 3D print / lasercut as many as you like and connect them together.

Changelog

V2
- Shelled the object (1.5mm wall) to reduce material usage and shrinkage when printing by FDM.
- Kept the bottom face (which tends to be smooth when printed on a heated platform) because it looks nice (to me). If you want to laser cut the part, remove this face or just take the top profile as your cut pattern. You may need to add a few more ribs to better connect the interior features to the outside loop of material. ;)

V1
Hello World!

2mm acrylic case cut on a laser cutter for a Nanode (http://www.nanode.eu/ and thingiverse.com/thing:7463).

Designed to be small, light and able to have a removable lid.

There are two models, one that is simply a case the other has a base that include mounts which allow the Nanode and case you be attached to a wall.

The design allows all the parts to be cut on an A4 size sheet of 2mm acrylic.

The height of the case allows for headers to be used and supported by the case, meaning shields can be used nicely.

The design works well with 3mm thick material too but you need to move the tabs out by 1mm to make it all fit nicely. If you don't feel like moving the tabs out it still works well however.

Equipment needed:
1 x A4 2mm thick acrlic/perspex
2 x M3 12mm Screws or M3 12mm Socket Cap Screws
2 x M3 Nuts
3 x M2 10mm Screws
12 x M2 Nuts
4 x 6mm rubber feet (optional)
and a small amount of Super Glue

USB90μC: a minimal development board for the Atmel AT90USB162 USB enabled microcontroller.

This is a cleaned up version of a home-designed-and-built development board used to learn how to interface to and write programs for the AT90USB162 microcontroller. A pic of the first home-built version can be seen at flickr.com/photos/everydayinventors/5368101007/ .

With the exception of the AVR mcu, all parts are through-hole for ease of assembly.

If you don't wish to manufacture a bare PCB yourself, you can get one from BatchPCB: batchpcb.com/index.php/Products/61022

Nanode provides lowest cost web interconnectivity for microcontrollers and smart sensor networks.

It is compatible with the Arduino programming environment.

It combines ATmega328, ENC28J60 ethernet controller and magjack ethernet connector on the same small pcb. All components are conventional through-hole so that it can be assembled by anyone with basic soldering skills. It can be built for under £20 (US$32) which is half the cost of an Arduino with ethernet shield.

The Nanode has additional I/O connectors which bring all of the I/O from the ATmega328 microcontroller and power to the top edge of the pcb. This allows it to be plugged direrectly into a standard breadboard making prototyping easier.

It is compatible with most Arduino shields -such as the Nokia 3310 display shield shown'

In addition to ethernet connectivity, Nanodes can be connected together on a low cost wired serial bus which allows them to be distributed around the home, for example, in a home automation or energy monitoring system. The serial bus allows Nanodes to communicate with one another or via a Master/Slave heirarchy. The Master device normally has the ethernet connection, and may also have real time clock, User display/interface SDcard storage etc.


The Nanode platform is an ideal project to introduce web connectivity and networking. It's low cost and ease of assembly makes it an ideal college or Hackspace project.

Nanode allows applications for internet remote montoring and control to be developed on a familiar low cost platform Applications such as web servers, web clients or for data exchange and control using services such as Pachube.

Nanode is based on an earlier ATmega/ENC28J60 design and firmware by Tuxgraphics.

This is a puzzle box. To open it you need to perform a certain gesture and press a button. Here is a video: youtube.com/watch?v=6EqoSPFPsjg

Someone who doesn't know how to open it will struggle for a long time, especially if you give them no clues. Once you've learnt the gesture, you can open the box in a couple of seconds.

The gesture is defined by the shape of an internal ball bearing maze. This can be easily changed to customise your box.

Many thanks to London Hackspace, and everyone who has helped me out with learning how to use the laser cutter!

This is a full set of tetris blocks that tessellate rather well. Made from 4mm MDF.

This has been replaced by thingiverse.com/thing:6430. Some of the pins on the Mega were incorrectly labeled. I also re-arranged some pins so that they made more sense.

These are modules for both EESchema and PCBNew in KiCad. They will allow you to make PCBs that have the appropriate header positions for a Arduino shield. I adapted files I found on the KiCad yahoo group (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/kicad-users/files/Library/ArduinoShield.ZIP posted by axtz4) adding a version for the MEGA.

I have found many Eagle librarys but very few for KiCad, I hope this encourages others to use this great tool and share more KiCad files.

Small box for carrying an Arduino plus a shield. The bottom of the box has a swivel piece to lock it in place.

Nothing fancy but it did come out well and can be used as a starting point for other projects.

Missing from the pictures are the standoffs for the Arduino. I'm going to use eight little circles with a hole in the middle and build up four little stands. Same technique as the bottom feet.

A classic laptop stand for a 13-inch and below laptop. Now with added giant cephalapod.

I designed it as a kraken, but it could also be Cthulu. Or an even a giant squid of some sorts.

Nick Starno, MakerBot engineer and outdoor enthusiast asked if public USGS mapping data could be modeled. I knew that Chris K. Palmer would know how, and within an hour an .stl file arrived in my inbox. Palmer is a resourceful guy!

So I printed one on my MakerBot in clear ABS.

This is the second incarnation of my Mecanum wheel design. It's a derivate of thingiverse.com/thing:2348 which I accidentally designed based on the wrong ball bearings (80034 instead of 624).

This design is now based on the (originally intended) 624 ball bearings. I was able to shrink the whole design, so the center wheel now fits on a standard Makerbot build platform and can be printed in one piece.

See my blog post at pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/04/23/its-printable for more information on the project. This post also contains a video showing the assembly process.

Box-o-tron 1.0

Python box creator

Now with extra Awesome. boxotron now includes, command line interface and stored config files.

Does tab and slot and "Cupcake" style T joins
Usage: boxotron.py [options]

Options:
-h, --help show this help message and exit
-l LENGTH, --length=LENGTH
Length of box in mm
-w WIDTH, --width=WIDTH
width of box in mm
-d DEPTH, --depth=DEPTH
depth of box in mm
-t THICKNESS, --thickness=THICKNESS
thickness of material in mm
-c CLEARANCE, --clearance=CLEARANCE
clearance between panels of material in mm
-i INSET, --inset=INSET
inset to middle of slot material in mm
-s SLOT_LENGTH, --slot_length=SLOT_LENGTH
length of slot in mm
-f FILENAME, --file_name=FILENAME
file_name
-j JOIN_EVERY, --join_every=JOIN_EVERY
join every x in mm
--type=TYPE box type = slot , bolt
-b BOLT, --bolt_size=BOLT
bolt size in mm
--bolt_length=BOLT_LENGTH
bolt length in mm
--bolt_clearance=BOLT_TAB_CLEARANCE
clearance between bolt and tab , multiple of bolt size
--nut_multiplier=NUT_MULTIPLIER
nut size - multiple of bolt size
--nut_depth=NUT_DEPTH
nut depth - multiple of bolt size


(hint , specify a non-existent file name and it will make a default one of that name )

This is a doorbell for the London Hackspace.

It has a large red button, speaker grill, bi-coloured LED, and the hackspace H logo engraved on the side. It is controlled by an arduino, and when pressed it makes a noise, flashes the space's lights, puts a message on the LED notification board, and also sends a message to the #london-hack-space IRC channel.

This was made with the box-o-tron script, then tweeked and extra parts added in qcad.

This is a fully moveable model of a KUKA KR180 industrial robot.
Its about 5x5cm at the base and about 20cm high if the arm is full upright.

You can find more about it at ifeelbeta.de

Perhaps one of the funnest projects we have attempted around the .:oomlout:. offices. A five degrees of freedom robotic arm. While we have spent many hours twisting knobs to move pop cans from one point on our desk to another sadly it has not progressed much further.
The main reason for this is the sum total of math knowledge around the oomlout.com offices is about 4 (don't ask us to show our work on how we calculated this) so inverse kinematics is well beyond our reach.

We are releasing it in an imperfect form in the hope that the clever Thingiverse denizens will be able to make it better.

Why this isn't quite ready for sale:
-We lack any inverse kinematics program which makes moving the arm intelligently nearly impossible.
-Without software limits on the servos it is capable of stripping the low cost hobby servo motors (this is alright for testing as they are only five dollars) (we have stripped two in the life of our arm and both happened when we were asking it to do silly things) (this can be fixed by upgrading the servos)
-We haven't completed the 3d model or assembly instructions just yet, but by studying the photos it is possible to assemble. (think more jigsaw puzzle than lego set)
-The gripper, lets just say the gripper needs a little work.

That said it is an amazingly fun toy to play around with, and a good starting point if anyone has ever had a desire to make the perfect robotic arm (it is open source so you'd be free to make and sell your own)

(shameless plug)

For more details about becoming a Robotic Arm Developer visit our blog
(http://www.oomlout.com/blog)

Nope, not Dash Rendar, Ponda Baba, or even the young Lando Calrissian. It's your favorite smuggler Han Solo lovingly packed in carbonite for convenient shipping and storage. Enjoy Han Solo by yourself or with friends. Han makes a lovely conversation piece and will be certain to make you the center of every party.

I owe a special thank you to Sci-Fi 3d { scifi3d.com } and the awesome free STL editing package Netfabb { netfabb.com }

A calling card with working planetary gears. Astound your friends, frustrate your nemisii.

(Update: I've moved the gears slightly to the right, reducing the number of cut parts to assemble.)

This is Thing-a-Week #4, previous things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

This is a small pan and tilt servo system for the Logitech C600 webcam.
It is designed for two Hitec HS-81 Servos

Wood screws may be useful to hold the 3D printed parts together.
iheartrobotics.com/2010/01/fastners-for-3d-printing-screw-it-well.html