Ok I'm writing this all for a second time as I accidentally deleted evrything. Noooooooooooo.

This mod doubles the X Y axis’s accuracy on Reprap Mendel. It does this by creating a double pulley system. I have noticed that there is significantly less lash on my x axis now and everything seems to move more sharply. Another benefit is this mod allows your machine to run at exactly the same speed as before.

youtu.be/vVHvbCfxZdU

You can see the first test here and get a good idea of how it goes together. The only difference now is the Y belts brackets have all captured knuts and countersunk bolts.

The goal of this project was to develop a low cost, open source inkjet printer utilizing standard inkjet technology, for personal use. This project was partly in response to the fact that there are no DIY inkjet kits available. There was a kit available from Parallax parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/robo/InkjetKitDocs-v1.0.pdf. This kit is no longer made and the book amazon.com/Inkjet-Applications-Matt-Gilliland/dp/0972015930 that was written to use that kit is now out of print.
The prototype design used a carriage assembly constructed from steel rods that were assembled using connectors that can be printed on an FDM machine. The entire carriage system is driven along the x-axis by a belt attached to a stepper motor. The print cartridge, taken from an HP point of sale printer, is driven along the y-axis by another stepper motor belt drive. The electronic controls use an Arduino Mega to run all of the printing systems.
The design resulted in a working prototype that fulfills all of the design constraints. The rod frame carriage design is lightweight, easy to assemble and easy to integrate with the other systems. The Arduino used in the electronics has a large library of resources available to perform things like LCD, SD card, and stepper control.
Areas where future work should be focused include making molds and casting printable parts to bring down the overall cost, developing host side software, and optimizing the speed.

There is a video of this working here: youtube.com/watch?v=fYeYeTGkvJM
There are additional pictures here: flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157626730985822/

This was a group project involving:
Patrick Hannan
Jared Knutzen
Nicholas C Lewis
Joy Markham

We produced a couple of Clonedel ID tags or key fobs or zipper pulls, etc. Our students requested that we design an ID tag to hang on their new Clonedel (you could use the bar-clamp or the end-stop clamp from the Clonedel).

The Clonedel is Item: 6788

thingiverse.com/thing:6788

This is a screw driven peristaltic Paste Extruder. It is still experimental, so before you decide to build it please check the following videos to see it in action:

- extruding polymer blend (hair gel):
youtube.com/watch?v=1XWYLSRCcq8

- extruding viscous chocolate glazing:
youtube.com/watch?v=qIFkw5RNXqQ

- extruding polymer blend at 16mm/sec, 0.5 mm nozzle, 250 micron layer:
youtube.com/watch?v=axAP0btw4Lk

Some pictures of the printing head: picasaweb.google.com/ioan.festeu/ReprapPasteExtruder?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJnau7ew38qs7AE&feat=directlink
You will find a 3D pdf file attached so you can easily inspect the pump.

Also I have attached a dxf file for the laser cutted acrylic mounting plate for Rapman 3D printers. Sorry... for Makerbots and Mendels you will have to find your solution :)

CAD drawing picture shows in yellow the printable parts. The rest of parts are stock M6 threaded rods, nuts and washers and two inexpensive 606 bearings. The stepper motor is a NEMA17.

For the tubing and pumping elements I used two sets of cheap perfusion kits. The pumping elements (shown in creamy colour) are elastic latex tubes you will find in the kit. Idealy you may use standard peristaltic pump tubes.

The reason I am using two elastic tubes (dual chanel) is because peristaltic pumps suffer from the so called "pulsing". That is, when the screw leaves the tubing the corresponding void (where the tube was pinched) will suck back a little bit the pumped fluid at the outlet hence pulsing. But using two chanels arranged in anti-phase pulsing is reduced to almost zero.

Total parts cost (except the stepper motor) is less than 10 Euros.

I will come back later with a complete parts list and instructions.

NOTICE: I didn't uploaded yet the "pressing pads" (two small parts that press the elastic tube over the screw shaft) because I need to make some minor changes, but don't worry I will post them asap. UPDATED

P.S. If somebody needs the early CAD files let me know. I will gladly send it to you so you can adapt to your machine. I am working in Alibre Design PE and I can't save in other common formats so you must find a way to make the conversion.

P.S. 2 I have uploaded the file "pressing pad". You may want to put some rubbery material between the pad and elastic tube to be sure the screw shaft will completely close the pumping tube but not strangulate it. Otherwise the pump will loose the pressure.

Also I have updated the 3D pdf file.

I have attached a picture of the "perfusion set". Don't know the exact terminology in English, sorry. Some sets also have a Luerlock part connecting the needle and the latex tube. My Luerlock file supports that part. Obviously you can use any kind of support that fits you better.

UPDATE 1: watch my third video (I have listed above).
I will upload asap a new screw rotor design. I am not very happy with the current one since it seems it have some bugs: it creates some extra pressure when the rotor leaves the tube hence altering the low pulsation feature.

UPDATE 2: I have uploaded a new screw rotor design (Screw Rotor New.stl). Screw pitch was decreased from 12mm to 10mm so motor rpm will increase just a little bit. It should perform better than the previous one. Will come back with my own results.

UPDATE 3: Uploaded the file Screw_Rotor_New_Support.stl. Unfortunately this file must be printed with support (soluble PVA, PLA?). However this rotor leaves a smaller footprint on the elastic tubes hence less dead volume (less suck back). Still working for the perfect match to bring pulsation close to zero.

UPDATE 4: Check my photo album: picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oN2Z_e3g6u7eHZYbbXj2nQ?feat=directlink
It is printed using the part "Screw Rotor New.stl". Pulsation is so small I think is a good print. Just a little bit of adjustment is needed. The trick is to find the perfect match when the helicoid is fading (leaving the contact with the elastic tube)such as the dead volume arising is compensated by the incoming volume of the same chanel. Meantime the other chanel is pumping normaly. And so on. For the perfectionists I promise I will fix this to make it even better. Meantime I am preparing new .stl files for the final version. I need to clean up the bugs in some of the parts (there are plenty) and may be to make the pump smaller and with less nuts and bolts.

UPDATE 6
About the cheap latex tubes: very short lifetime, losing elasticity. So, go proffesional peristaltic tubing. The pressure will be perhaps around 0,7 bar with those tubing. Now I am waiting for the tubes to be delivered (2-3 weeks). Meantime I will try to cast my own tubing from RTV silicone. Keep you updated.

The Clonedel RepStrap was inspired by the Prusa Mendel (see the related article).

open3dp.me.washington.edu/2011/02/prusa-mendel-and-the-clonedels/

It came about due to necessity of students wanting to build RepRap style machines faster than we could 3D print them. It took about a week outside of class to redesign Prusa parts for mold production. Most of the parts required only minor modifications, but several parts, such as the X-Carriage assembly, required redesign. All modified parts were placed on mold pattern plates to allow for the production of silicone RTV molds.

All of the STL files are now posted here and on GitHub as an Open3DP fork off of the Prusa tree.

github.com/open3dp/PrusaMendel/downloads

They are to be considered Alpha release (and we are already working on some changes). However, we am quite sure that you will be able to use them to print master forms to produce molds (because we have produced molds and we have used the molds to produce RepRaps).

These mold plates represent the current best practice as provided by reprap project, prusa mendel, jnfisher, whosawhatis, rustyspoon1121, etc.

Further, Metrix Create Space has already created molds sets and cast parts. Metrix Create is already making them available.

metrixcreatespace.com/post/3587952561/clone-factory-bootstrapping

{P.S. Several people have had trouble with EndStops and XMotor. I uploaded them to NetFabb Beta to fix them. I have uploaded _Fixed versions. Please let me know if these files are better.}

I improved the overhangs (they are now 45°) and added mounting tabs.

I've been asked to post this by araspitfire

This is an improved idler bracket for the herringbone geared extruder. It has been designed to be stronger than the original. In addition, the idler now also constrains the driven gear bearings to prevent any movement during extrusion.

Final update: I have uploaded the source scad and DXF files, and an archive with all the STLs, including the improved ones by nicholasclewis (thank you!). I lost some of the source files for the first models by accident, and the bunny idler was not made in OpenSCAD, and I don't have the source for models made by others, but most of them are there. Have fun building, and don't forget the contest!

Starting today, December 2nd, I will upload a new STL each day. Print one per day and you'll have a Prusa Mendel (with extruder) on the 24th. The prints that take longer are on the weekends, with shorter ones during the week. Some of the parts are special holiday-themed. I'll try to arrange them so you can build as much as possible with the ones you already have. All of these will fit on a normal Makerbot build platform. For more information on the Prusa Mendel, see reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

For the source code for the models, see github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

Superlative update! Ruben (sikko on IRC) of ikmaak.nl is organizing a contest for everyone who is printing this. The best resulting printer gets a free set of electronics, and the runner-up gets free filament. So if you are printing this, check ikmaak.nl/eenblog/2010/12/06/the-holiday-mendel-build-contest/ for the contest details.

The STL for 02. December is now available.
It's a Wade extruder idler by nophead, thingiverse.com/thing:3462

The STL for 03. December is now available.
It's three of the universal rod clamps that you need for the Y and Z axes.
The snowflakes are from thingiverse.com/thing:1321
You can hang them from your frame top bars if you like.
This is the Prusa Mendel bar-clamp part.

The STL for 04. December is now available.
If you can have a vertex with a foot...
then why not have a vertex...with a boot!
This part is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot in the Prusa Mendel

The STL for 05. December is now available.
The irregularly shaped hole on the y motor bracket just got more regular.
This is equivalent to the y-motor-bracket

The STL for 06. December is now available.
Courtesy of GregFrost, we have a decorated vertex that proudly proclaims the name of the remix's designer. Print as it is, and don't worry about the missing bits on the first layer - they're there on purpose.
This is equivalent to the frame-vertex.

The STL for 07. December is now available.
For all of you who were waiting for the other shoe to drop - here it is.
Should print better than the one before - less of the boot is hanging in the air.
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

The STL for 08. December is now available.
This is a tree-star vertex. While the front of your bot has boots, why not have something nice for the back too?
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

Once you've printed this part you are ready to assemble one of the frame triangles. Take this part and the one from the day before it, and the crown vertex, and follow the instructions on the wiki page linked above.

The STL for 09. December is now available.
We've already got bar-clamps, why not star-clamps?
Sadly the thumbnail does not show the most interesting bit.
This is the Prusa Mendel bar-clamp part.

The STL for 10. December is now available.
Another lovely vertex by GregFrost. Print as it is, and don't worry about the missing bits on the first layer - they're there on purpose and spell out the model name.
This is equivalent to the frame-vertex.

The STL for 11. December is now available.
Another tree-star vertex.
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

You can now build the entire frame! Have fun!

The STL for 12. December is now available.
It's a gift and motor holder. It holds your z motor and a bunch of gifts - and anything else you put on it. Using clothbot's parametric LEGO buttons at thingiverse.com/thing:1005 makes this part LEGO-compatible.
This is equivalent to z-motor-holder.

The STL for 13. December is now available.
Since the LEGO bits from yesterday turned out so popular, here's more of that.
Four belt clamps, two rod clamps, two bar clamps. Enjoy!
(There was an error in this file. If you downloaded it before this message appeared, please download it again. If you already printed it, you will need to reprint it. Sorry! My mistake!)

The STL for 14. December is now available.
These are the prusa bushings. They work best if printed in PLA, so if you have access to PLA, use that for this part.
These are the bushings for all three axes.

The STL for 15. December is now available.
These are pulleys for the X and Y axes. Use the shooting star pulley on the X axis, and the other on the Y.

You can now build the entire Y axis.

The STL for 16. December is now available.
This is a quiet little street behind a purring Z axis motor.
This is equivalent to z-motor-holder.

The STL for 17. December is now available.
Two little trees to hold your leadscrews in line.
This is equivalent to coupling.

The STL for 18. December is now available.
tbuser's lovely scanned gnome thingiverse.com/thing:4693 finds its way back to the real world, guarding your x axis motor.
This is equivalent to x-end-motor.

The STL for 19. December is now available.
I was so impressed when the Stanford bunny appeared on thingiverse as thingiverse.com/thing:3731 and immediately printed 4.
This one will sit on your idler and watch your prints for you.
This is equivalent to x-end-idler.

Now you have all the parts you need to build the X axis and attach it to the Z axis.

The STL for 20. December is now available.
It's an x-carriage...with a beard. More on this theme later.

You can now attach the bushings and belt for the X axis.

The STL for 21. December is now available.
This is the small gear for a Wade's extruder - with a candy cane on top.

The STL for 22. December is now available.
This is the body of Wade's extruder, only with a hat!
(could you, would you, with a hat?)

The STL for 23. December is now available.
This is the large gear for the the Wade's extruder. It's meant to look pretty cool with the other extruder parts and the bearded carriage.
Moustache profile from thingiverse.com/thing:4626

You can now assemble the entire extruder.

The STL for 24. December is now available.
These are the endstop holder sleighs.
Racing through the bed.
On a one-stop open axis.
Who will reach it first...
At G28.

You can now assemble the entire printer. Tomorrow, you get OpenSCAD source and a zip of all the models.

A quadcopter frame on 1 sheet for easy lasercutting. Files are from the arducopter project
( code.google.com/p/arducopter/source/browse/#svn/branches/jpkh/frame )

1x BatteryHolder
1x CarrierBoard
1x MainSQRE
4x MotorMount Lower/Upper (8pc total)

Matt says to me, "make this", he draws a Spy vs. Spy object on a whiteboard and erases it.

These little bits of plastic will let you mount sheet metal endstop flags and then adjust them with as needed.

I have been having trouble with the plastruder motor stripping out the
filament. Here i\'s my take on an upgrade.

There are three points of contact between the gearing and the
filament, so no one spot should strip. All of the gearing is moving in
sync.
I did try holding the filament in some pliers while the motor was
running and the filament broke by the pliers. I am slightly concerned
that if for any reason my heater stops and the motor is still running,
it will break my heater.

Currently this is setup to move slower than the standard printruder
mark 4 (I am trying to print really thin layers and the other one was
too fast) but I can reformulate it to go faster.
Next steps:

Make mounting supports:
thingiverse.com/thing:2435

Test pull force of gearbox (I just ordered a 110lb fish scale, dumb
thing is not supposed to get here until the 21st. If anyone has a fish
scale in Boston and they would like to loan it to me, please give me a
shout!)

I am also thinking of putting in a spring powered emergency disconnect
in the gearing right by the motor that I can dial in how much force
this will exert.

Anybody have any advice?

Thanks,
Aaron Double


UPDATE:

It is done now :D

I got my fish scale and ran two pull tests with ABS. In both tests the filament broke where it was tied, not at the motor.

First test: 48lbf 213.5N
Second test: 47lbf 209N

I have done one test with PLA, it went to 62lbf - 275.8N! then the filament snapped by where it was tied to the scale. The filament still has not stripped out yet! The image of the PLA running through the gearing was taken after the filament snapped where it was tied, same for the detail shot of the PLA.


This was tested with 2.8mm diameter filament that was purchased by MakerBot. Rick over at Makergear mentioned that he has been seeing filament as large as 3.1mm diameter going around. I don not have any, so I can not test that. I do not think it would be a problem, it just means that the filament will have larger teeth marks.

One of the nice things about this design is that you do not have to set the pressure on anything, just drop the shafts with the gearing and bearings in and you are done. The spacing is set in the stl file.

Does anyone know a better way to attach the filament to the fish scale? I still do not know how strong this is.

All and all I am happy. Stl files are updated.

Update 2:

I went down to visit the Botcave and met the makerbot folks (they are pretty cool and mellow, the only thing that I did not expect was how tall Bre is.) The important thing is they happily let me play with their force test rig! thingiverse.com/thing:3198

I only did ABS because of time constraints, and after the sixth test I decided to change how the drive was mounted to the rig. After remounting the drive and cleaning it, I ran 22 tests without cleaning it in between!

Here are the 22 results in Newtons:

290.2N
272N
263N
278N
292.4N
268.8N
298.8N
288.6N
281.8N
267.8N
244N
281.8N
286.6N
238.2N
257.8N
287.8N
288.4N
280.2N
289.4N
283.2N
262.4N
276.4N

Which gives it an average of 276.5N WITHOUT CLEANING! I added an image of the drive taken apart after stripping it 22 times.

To put it lightly, I was very happy!

This little plate will let you mount a RepRap extruder to your MakerBot.

File updated: fixed back line segment.

I'll post my fixed production files here as I find and fix the broken ones.

Edit: Spacexula has now officially posted my fixes for #3 and #6, so you can just download them from the original page, no need to replace them as they are the same files as posted here! I heard #17 has a few problems, so I'll look in to that and post my fix when I have one.

Simple holder for flexy shaft (I use the Einhell flexy shaft but Dremel one should work too - the inner dia of the hole is 21mm). It can hold a marker or a pen too.

This tv stand will hold your phone instead. he's pretty sturdy, and he'll do it with a smile.

4h40 m
136mm

This is a puzzle box that you can cut on a laser cutter and assemble with no additional parts.

The panels on the cube faces move, and if you move them in the correct sequence, you will open the box!

This is an adaption of Bruce Viney's "Cubey 2" for the laser cutter. His original plans (requiring traditional woodworking tools) are here: homepage.ntlworld.com/bruce.viney/plans.html

A single-digit split-flap display, like the displays in old train stations. Rig it up to a stepper motor and you'll have yourself a low-power retro-cool display. This Thing doesn't include any controlling electronics. Big ups to Metrix Create:Space, where this was designed and made.

"Brass" Knuckles made with ABS plastic using a Makerbot and Blender.