I really liked how buckyball's jigsaw blade handle felt in my hand, so I designed something simillar for regular metal saw blades.

The latter are thinner and longer than jigsaw blades and have smaller teeth usually. They achieve better results in specific cases, but they must be used with care so as not to bend them too much.

Actually, it may be convenient to break or cut a blade to make it shorter (or recycle a broken one!).

This is the filament driver I used (together with my hobbed bolt) sucessfully on my Ultimaker for the last 10 months (and this is PLA!)

This thing is in progress, though it is currently revision 5.3: I just should stop spending days on it since it is extremely reliable (much more than what I had stock).

It is written with openscad and it is fully parametric (incuding height, average thickness, bearing diameters...).

People may be interested in the unusual features I think it has. Check my blog for the details.

I know, there are already tons of them. But I had some specific needs and I simply like to play with customizable openscad designs.

It would not be worth if it was not versatile so you will be able to design yours according to your needs. I publish it anyway: having more choices never hurts and people may even find that it suits their needs better in some case, who knows ;)

By the way with one wing only, you can make wrenches!

Here is the hobbed bolt I have been using for the last 10+ months with better results than anything else (check also the complete feeder at thingiverse.com/thing:73082). Time to share!

Though it looks like "old school", it is extremely reliable and could prove useful to makers that do not want to buy expensive machined bolts, or that build their own filament feeders or extruders.

As for me it compares favorably to MK6 and ultimaker drive bolts. Grinding and slipping is something I *never* experienced in the last 6 months but once with a brittle wood filament.

This is a flexible library for GoPro mounts. I made it also customizer-friendly so you can design your very own mount and print it directly.

Of course you'll get the basic 2- and 3-arm mounts (to build upon), but it also features useful extensions such as handlebar / seat post / threaded rod mounts and options. Check the pictures and the customizer!

This holds a Garmin GPS device on one of my two bikes for the forthcoming holidays. It is sturdier than I thought (see youtu.be/WCfcyDthPXo)

I had some slight longitudinal free play in my rods. Some were making noise when the head brutally changed its direction on a diagonal movement. It probably did not help making better prints also.

So I re-designed my caps once again. This time I embedded one nut in the internal side, and it becomes very easy to prevent any rod from moving on its axis.

Update (thingster derivative): you can also add an external secondary nut in order to lock the screw very tightly (as show on the first picture). Else you may like the thicker but more efficient derivative by thingster which embeds a nylock nut.

Script to generate texture via temperature gradients to get horizontal stripes that "look like wood".

The owl is Cushwa's popular design at thingiverse.com/thing:18218

It was printed here with LAYWOO-D3 wood filament thingiverse.com/thing:30552
It works also somehow with some other filament (just tweak the temperature), with a less drastic effect.

This is a piece of source code of mine, originally made for Skeinforge within Cura 12.08, now part of the official releases, and is now also an independent standalone Python script.

This is a simple longer version of chasmaker original smaller stepper gear. This one will not move on the axis and it is very robust.

The picture shows it after 10 month of use and kilograms of PLA. No wear so far! It works very well with my big gear at thingiverse.com/thing:25501

This is a drop in replacement for the Ultimaker, though it should prove useful on other printers with belts with an X/Y moving head, such as the makerbot (it is all parametric: belt, rods, bushing etc)

It also embeds a novel and precise belt tensioner thanks to a sliding banana. No? Really!

Just have a look at the "exploded" STL view to know why!

Just wanted to give a try of the thingiverse customizer, which may help people looking for some specific adapters :)

That's obviously no peace pipe, but a convenient tool to hold the nuts where they must go, such as these incredibly tricky corners and rod caps on the printers...

Update: I have added customizer support for your own needs (check the button above). I took the idea of opening the head laterally from peteruithoven (see derivations), thanks!

This is an improvement to precisely set and keep a given belt tension by pulling the stepper motor downwards with a spring.

Some people were asking for it in the original design, mainly to reduce the risk of over-tightening the belt.

So here it is: obviously you'll need an appropriate spring and a fews more nuts & washers.

Additionally, it might even compensate belt length variations during print if the stepper is kept slightly loose

Update: I've added a 4-screw version, probably required if you do not have the wooden plates but 4 cylindrical independent spacers.

While redoing my end caps and adding a hole, I realized it started to look like Sid...

So I added some hair to make it clearer, though Sid only has eyebrows.

I finally got rid of the very annoying and varying short belt sloppiness on my Ultimaker.

betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/11/short-belt-tensioner-for-nema-17.html

This two-piece tensioner is simple, robust and it lets you adjust the belt tension with both precision.

It also protects your case from abusive screwing/unscrewing of the stepper bolts.

Disclaimer: please make sure never to over tighten your belts as it becomes very easy to do so... It will not make your prints look better and you most probably would ruin the belts and/or your bearings! Simply proceed with care as usual!

Update: if you want a spring-loaded tensioner, this variant may better be what you want: thingiverse.com/thing:40041

Update: added a version to hold the stepper motor by its 4 screws, in case you use 4 independent cylindrical spacers on the other side of the wall. It will help pulling it straight.

This is an openscad script to generate a pulley for strings and ropes. It uses a 608 ZZ bearing (the cheapest and most common ones, used for skateboards and rollers, about $1-2 on ebay).

With the source, you can tweak most of the properties, or use another kind of bearings.

The groove cover, attachment leg and top housing are optional.

I use these to lift bags of bird seed in my garage, out of reach of mices!

The pulley is to be screwed or nailed to a support on its own axis. However, the optional top cover makes it possible to hang it. The last picture show how I reinforced one that lifted about 50Kg.

I just ditched my printed bowden clamp for a blind rivet nut.

They are less bulky than standard nuts, and they also feature a very convenient shoulder, to be embedded in printed parts.

The result is incredibly solid.

This thing lets you design an adapter to exchange different kind of batteries!

The STL here is for an A13 zinc/air battery in place of a LR44 (or SR44), because it happened I had these around, otherwise useless to me.

Make sure that the voltages are compatible though! (here I have 1.44 volts instead of 1.55: lower is safe but may not work properly)

New: check the customizer version at thingiverse.com/thing:44850 !

This is a parametric hose coupler through a webservice. It can create STL files directly for adpators (adapters?) that couple two hoses or pipes. Hey, you can even make funnels with it!

Just provide your own dimensions and get the file!

I had a very large adapter to plug my vacuum cleaner hose into the skimmer of my swimming pool. And it finnaly broke (UV?). So I designed this smaller one.

It consists of two opposed cones, so they just plug in a standard 40mm pool hose (well, that's a standard here) and on the other side to the bottom of the skimmer (which is probably not standard!)

Update: tweak your own according to your printer and setup: thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=25636 !

I had some trouble printing an acceptable cone for the two bowden clamp things: they were a bit slippy on the inside unless I destroyed them in the riser by screwing them too much...

This one:
- features inner rings to add radial but non-uniform clamp force on the tube, which works really nicely
- is (still) fully parametric so you can tune it to your tube diameter, riser internal diameter and printer fuzziness...

Thanks to owen of course for this very nice thing :)

The teeth of my stock plywood wheel are slowly wearing out... I'd better print a replacement now that I can ;)

This is just a use of LeemonBaird nice library with added holes (esp. the big nut slot in the center).

Licence = CC BY-NC 2.0

Yet another set of feet for the ultimaker!

Update: use the customizer for your own height: thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=25438

These are fully parametric, so that you can adjust the height and more from the constants. You can even tune the edge roundness ;)

I needed them for a 50mm power supply upgrade, and those I could find on thingiverse did not suit me (imho, either ugly or non parametric, or both).

There is a hole tailored to the bolts that come with the ultimaker, so you can add a soft pad below the feet then, or just screw one for a thighter fit.

Tired of the feeder that wants to detach itself from the ultimaker frame each time you push the filament upwards manually?

Scared that it falls off each time you move your box around?

Just stick this thing in the free space above the extruder arms to lock it in place.

OK the best surely would be not to have to push the filament by hand at all, but at least now I do not need both hands to do so :)

The original Ultimaker caps add useless friction to the X/Y axis bearings, so I designed these instead.

Update: added rounded/smoother version, slightly bigger and with optional bearing access hole (eg. to oil it if ever...)

This is a replacement for the plastic pin that holds the elastic band on a a Dell Laptop power supply.

This way of storing the cable is great, and this print replaces a broken or lost pin.