A textured Sphere with a Reaction-Diffusion simulation of 2 chemicals.

The relief parts are 3mm thick while the cavities are 1.5mm thick thus allowing more light to pass thru

Size: 150x150x144mm
Thickness: 1.5~3mm

At the base there is a 40mm cut-hole to mount your lamp stand.
Use 40W bulb or 3W LED.

Dizingof
3dizingof.com

This is a toy safe that I designed for my nephew Derek. Seeing as young Derek is a bit of an escape artist, I thought that he might enjoy learning how locks work, so this safe comes with a working lock, and lockpicks designed to work with this safe (so that he can apply his new knowledge of lock mechanisms).

Note: there is a second set of pins available for download, with 8mm diameter. These may require some sanding down to get close tolerance in the holes. I added these because the original 7mm diameter pins sometimes skewed and jammed in the tumbler.

Admittedly, there is some room for improvement, but considering it's a prototype, it works really well. My first print was easy to assemble, and the key opened the lock. what more can you ask for?

additional parts required: 3 springs (from clicky ball point pens; some superglue/epoxy glue; two 4mmx50mm bolts & nuts (other solutions possible, see instructions)

I've included the Solidworks files, so that you can view the assembly, and customise the pins and keys

Here are some regular patterns to be used as infill and internal structure for 3d models using OpenSCAD.

Version 1: Cone tubes
This structure consist of separate tubes with double cones. The tubes are arranged rectangular.

Version 2: Sphere tubes
This structure consist of separate tubes with spheres. The tubes are arranged hexagonal. The calculation is time intensive.

Version 3: Octahedrons
My favorite structure consist of linked octahedrons. The octahedrons are arranged rectangular. The wall size is at minimum.

It is my new Mechanical Excavators V2 with more parts and more style.
You can download the Zip file in one time or each parts separately.

NASA landed a pair of these spacecraft on Mars back in 1976 to search for signs of life. The results were inconclusive at best. It was NASAs first successful landing on another planet.

The source for this model is the NASA 3D Resources website: nasa.gov/multimedia/3d_resources/assets/viking_c.html

Model of NASA's Galileo Solar System Explorer.
Print parts and assemble with glue.
I will provide the assembly instruction as soon as I have one printed.

This is Joffrey Baratheon's crown from the Game of Thrones show. More info can be found on my [instructables](http://www.instructables.com/id/Game-of-Thrones-Joffrey-Baratheons-Crown/).

statue of maltese falcon

This is a 340mm diameter prototype VAWT that's intended to be a scalable demonstrator. It accommodates 3 blades which are stolen directly from scrap vinyl vertical blinds. (Yes, those ugly fat ones that hang) You just take the single blinds and insert them in to the slots. I put a dab of 2-part epoxy to keep them in place, but the fit is tight. The blade arms attach via 3x 3mm screws or bolts. The central hub is sized to use a 7/16 shaft (I use 1/2" threaded rod that's cut down with a lathe in just the right place so I can put a 1/2" nut below to support the turbine). Note that there's a 20-tooth gear face on the hub, if you'd like to drive a mechanism- though I doubt you'll power more than landscaping lights until this is optimized. That being said, I have included the solidworks part files so that you can change the blade angle, etc. if you'd like. Oh, and you could print more than one set and drive a multi-tiered version with really long blinds if you like!

I searched the Thingiverse for a simple hinged box that was parametric and printed all in one piece. I couldn't find one. I did find some really neat parametric boxes and lids though. I used none of their OpenSCAD code for this.

I've printed probably a dozen one piece boxes with hinge during my testing. I wanted a tight hinge that would reliably print and NOT fuse together. During my testing I experimented with different speeds, temps, and tolerance values in my SCAD files. The attached OpenSCAD files prints reliably on my printer. The resulting hinge is a bit loose but it reliably does not fuse. Changing the tolerance by .1 does make a much tighter hinge, but sometimes I could not break it free. YMMV.

Saw these for the first time in Thailand a couple years ago but they cost $30 for even the simplest. Now you can print your own!

Three STLs uploaded are 5cm tall, 10cm tall, and 15cm tall giving you your baby, mama, and papa lamp shades. Yeah, have fun printing 30 of those 15cm pieces! First one to do so gets a pat on the back.

Scale the parts to your liking for different sizes and piece thickness.

I also added DXF files for diversity

UPDATE:
I finally finished printing a full set of 30 - 10cm pieces to make the sphere and found the diameter to be 18cm/ 7 inches, a little small for my liking. I'll work out the simple math soon so that you can scale accordingly, but just keep that in mind!

The title says it all ;-)

This is a pure mashup of existing good ideas. The fan guard (angled grating) prevents broken fan blades by random hex keys. Merged that with the pusher bar (sweeper) and added Makerbot logo. I provided a Makerbot version and non-branded version.

I made these trophies for my cub group's annual cub car races & and best of show competition.

Here's a simple hinge design that does not violate the 45 degree overhang limit rule -- no spans either. The hinge mechanism uses conical pins on the narrow fingers mating with conical hollows in the thick fingers. This makes a very cleanly operating hinge which goes between a flat 180 and 90 degree positions, and is easy to print.

For now, this is just a test/demo using the customizer; a more parametric version is coming....

A small and handy safe box with a built in combination lock. The whole box prints preassembled (inspired by emmett) including hinges, the only thing to add are the combination lock dials and rods which easily slide into position.

Two hexadecimal dials ensure a completely safe solution with 256 different possible keys (that is about as safe as WEP). Choose your own favourite key!

Sometimes the story behind the object that you create is more valuable than the object itself. You see, my wife is chronically organized and must keep a clean house always. I, on the other hand, have a great deal of chaos in my blood. Moreover, if I am not reminded of an object by seeing it, I forget that it exists.

The case in point illustrates this perfectly. My wife and I went to the library a few weeks ago and I got a half a dozen books. At home, she immediately put them in a basket and I promptly forgot about them. I was only reminded of the books 3 weeks later when the library emailed me about renewing them.

In the shower this morning (where I do my best thinking) it occurred to me that I should put them on the desk in my lab where my dear wife does not willingly tread. Then I thought that the books would get in the way unless I could organize them. Of course! I could print a book end! And then the mental leap: I could print a Laurie Anderson book end!!! I jumped out of the shower to write it down so I wouldn't forget it before I dried off.

Of course it doesn't have to be Ms. Anderson, it could be Bre, Tony, Colbert or any of the other great busts.

Place of Origin: India | Karnataka state
Style or Ware: Hoysala
Date: 1200-1300
Medium: Schist

Credit Line: Gift of the de Young Museum Society Auxiliary
Label: Crowned and bejeweled, as befitting his status as one of India's most beloved gods, Ganesha is represented grasping objects frequently associated with him: a battle axe, a lotus (now broken), a bowl of favorite sweets, and a broken tusk. Ganesha's elephant head, like his multiple arms, is a mark of his divine nature, and various myths explain how he acquired it. The most popular recounts how the goddess Parvati desired a child and single-handedly created Ganesha. Her husband, the god Shiva, mistakenly beheaded Ganesha but restored him to life by replacing his human head with that of an elephant. Elephants carry complex symbolism in the Indian cultural world. Because they are thought to resemble rain clouds in color and shape, they have long been associated with fertility and prosperity.

I usually transport my 3D printing related tools in a side mesh pocket of my giant laptop backpack. The pliers themselves have sharp metal edges that were starting to eat into the mesh, so I decided to make this Thing to protect it.

Works great on a small spring-loaded set of pliers from Harbor Freight, but should be large enough to fit bigger ones.

This luggage tag is designed to fit a standard business card, but maybe your business is non-standard! So of course you can customize it to fit whatever type of card you want. It's a 2 piece print that bolts together at the corners and the pressure clamps the card in. And just for fun it has an open-source hardware logo cutout in the back.

Here are two icosahedral pencil holders.

They were constructed by replacing the triangular faces of an icosahedron with triangular motifs like those in thing 75045 - Desk Ornaments. The topmost face of the icosahedron was deleted and a prism added to the base.

Stl files are:

icosa_holder_4.stl
icosa_holder_12b.stl

and the openSCAD code is: icosa_holder.scad.

The Vase was created with the program Cinema 4D and finished with a UP 3D printer.

This low power electrical switch is part of a reading lamp that I'm designing.

My design goals are:
- no vitamins (i.e. completely printable except cables/electrics/electronics)
- easy printing (avoiding excessive overhangs, etc.)
- easy assembly

I wanted to make an electrical switch with push push mechanism, similar to the ones that are known from ball pens, but completely printable. This is the result of several weeks of design, trial, error and redesign.

The main idea is to have two cable ends connected and separated inside the mechanism, so it will propably only be save for real low power applications (like powering a LED).

The mechanism is complete except the part that connects the cables.

Update 2013-05-02:
Yesterday, I tested if the switch will still work after longer activation time. I set it to "on" (springs in compressed state) and let it in this position over night. Unfortunately, the big spring seems to have permanently deformed over this time and can't get back to full decompression, so the switch is stuck :(

Seems I will have another try at this one... propably more space and a longer spring will do, but I want to check other options first.

This Dalek model is derived from guydebored's models. I wanted to print a larger sized Dalek on my TOM, so I sliced up the model, but I didn't want to glue the pieces together.

I've always wanted to connect split up parts with a pin connector, so this is the first time I've tried something like that. I used the PLA Cube Gears as a template for creating my pins and sockets.

The added benefit of using the pins is that each section, including the head can spin.

The models, especially the bottom part, aren't perfect, but I've ran them through netfabbcloud, and they slice and print without any issues.

I built the open source MONOCHRON clock designed by Lady Ada:
ladyada.net/make/monochron/index.html
I built it on perfboard using a KS0108-display and parts I already had. Note that my display is smaller than the display from the kit. I built the clock two years ago and now that I have a 3D-printer I could finally create a nice casing for it!

The Actual Tardis has all the signs, handles and a keyhole. "Keith It!" to make it bigger on the inside.

Visit me on Cubify.com

This is a small robotic claw designed to pick up a can of Red Bull Shot. It was really an exercise to make the simplest possible mechanism that would get the job done, with the least number of parts and as small as possible. It works quite well, even though the pincers could do with a little bit more friction for a better grip (add rubber bands?)

Check it out at: youtu.be/IM5oRUVfCBY

3:1 gear stages that can be assembled to get a gear ratio to any power of 3.

I needed to reduce the speed of a motor by a large degree. My first tries used a a worm gear, but I didn't have my support settings dialed in well enough to print one yet. I went with this design so it would be easy to add or remove stages depending on the desired gear ratio.

For my current project, I am using 6 stages of gear reduction. 3^6=729 so I have a 729:1 reduction in speed. Included with this is a 1:729 increase in torque.

Version 3 now available. thingiverse.com/thing:91720 much easier to put together.

Almost as effective as my first vibration isolator but is fully printable and does not require any extra parts.

It reduces noise every effectively

I have print these in both ABS and PLA. They both work well.
ABS works slightly better as it is softer but is not able to support as much weight as PLA.

I sliced and diced and now you can print it without support.

Now with alternate LARGER version!