This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, H, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.
Not printed yet... I'm away for the weekend! I'll upload some photos when I do, on Monday.

While looking for new interesting things to print using water soluble PVA support, I decided I want to try to make a Hilbert Cube: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hilbert_cube

After trying and failing to do it in openscad, I worked around it's limitations by writing a ruby script that generates openscad code. This ruby script can create a 1-3 iterations of a hilbert curve in 3d. I borrowed code from a Processing script by Thomas Diewald at openprocessing.org/visuals/?visualID=15599

Unfortunately after doing this, I realized it wasn't really a hilbert cube as the shape is not one continuous curve. :( Still it looks cool and is pretty much impossible to print without dissolvable support. It would be awesome if someone smarter than me would make a proper parametric hilbert cube generator, plz!

I also found a really nice and proper curved hilbert cube by Carlo H. Séquin at cs.berkeley.edu/~sequin/X/Hilbert_Cube/ I resized it and made a support model for it. I don't know what the license is on it, hopefully he won't mind me reposting it here. The problem with this model is that it is curved in a way that makes it a more difficult print.

See also this hilbert cube print from shapeways: youtube.com/watch?v=9cdWpQ2D-O8

This is a stand for tips of an electrical toothbrush of Braun/Oral B.

We had a toothbrush stand, but it was designed for normal toothbrushes, hence it was to deep to fit the tips in.

So I designed this stand that fits nicely and that can hold 4 tips.

This is the Quantum ORD Bot. It is 3D printer mech platform made from MakerSlide linear bearing. It is extremly ridged and very easy to build. The design can easily be scaled in X,Y and/or Z by simply changing the Makerslide lengths plus belt and leadscrew lengths. This is the mini or 'Quantum' version. The parts other than MakerSlide are either off the shelf standard items or easily fabricate with a laser cutter, 3D printer or CNC router. There is a blog post giving a lot more detail.

buildlog.net/blog/2012/01/the-quantum-ord-bot/

As a reference point, this size uses less than $15 worth of Makerslide extrusion. You also need about $45 worth of MakerSlide wheels, spacers, etc. The Makerslide parts are available at the MakerSlide store. Be aware the rail is released in weekly 'production batches' and sells out very quickly. It is 'restocked' on weekly basis.

I have attached the complete 3D design in STEP format plus a DXF of the flat parts. If I can generate enough interest, I may have about 50 sets of parts fabricated and offer kits. That would be for the mechatronics platform only. The extruder, electronics, etc would not be included.

Why spend $200 for a set of printed parts when you can have everything you see here, including motors, belts, pulleys for about $200?

Planned changes.
1. I plan to change the crossbar handle thing to an extrusion to make it more scalable.
2. The 'quantum' design currently uses NEMA14 motors. I plan to tweak the parts to be compatible with NEMA17. This just adds a second pattern to some parts.

This template makes it easy to create George Hart's 72 pencil sculpture. georgehart.com/sculpture/pencils.html

This thing is the end result of an ongoing project to manage the wires coming off the ThingOMatic Heated Build Platform. I needed to print objects which were near the maximum size of the TOM build envelope, and found that when printing at the corners of the platform the cable would frequently become pinched between the build platform or Y stage and the TOM enclosure, stalling the servos and ruining the print. I also didn't like how the cables would rub against the Y stage smooth rods and pully sometimes, and wanted to do something about a strain relief for the HBP connector.

This Thing is the result, a system of parts which completely encloses the cable and forces it to move in a predictable path that stays out of the way of the build platform and Y stage, and also acts as some degree of a strain relief for the build platform and Y axis endstop connectors. With this Thing my TOM can print objects filling the entire print volume reliably.

The chain link is anchored in three spots. The X stage end anchors to the wooden rib on the right side of the build platform. This will require a small hole to be drilled for a bolt to hold this piece in place. A zip-tie is used here to secure the HBP cable.

The centerpoint piece attaches to the right side of the Y stage. This requires removing one of the rod endcap plates and attaching the printed part in its place. This is the most annoying part of the installation as you have to partially dissassemble the end of the Y stage to get this piece in place.

The baseplate anchor is the easiest to install, it just snap-fits into the square hole in the corner of the clear plastic plate.

The cable links snap together, and can be installed after you have the anchor pieces in place. I use 9 links between the build platform and the midpoint anchor, and 10 between the midpoint and the baseplate anchor, but you may find different numbers work better for you depending on how long your cables are. Each chain link has slots where you can zip-tie the wires in place if you desire, although I haven't found that to be necessary. These chain links may also be useful by themselves in other applications where you need to control the movement of a moving cable bundle.

This Thing can be attached to an existing TOM without having to disconnect any cables in the process.

This is my take on a smaller reprapable version of the Ultimaker. I was going to wait until I had it 100% working but there have been a few gantry systems posted and I wanted to get it out there. Here's a list of the current inspirations, I'll add links later: Ultimaker, brutestruder, bowden cable, mendel bearing setup and Makerbot.

The printer's external dimensions are currently 8.5inx8.5inx10in and the build area is 100x100x175mm.

The main reason I started working on this is most printer designs that have been coming recently have been getting larger in footprint. I want something that'll easily and conveniently fit on my desk, I also have no problem with the 100mm square cupcake build envelope.

Where I'm at: I have had problems with friction in the gantry and am in the process of redesigning all of the moving components. I would upload files, but I just trashed them all as not good enough. So, you'll have to wait until they are good enough. That being said the printer in the photos can easily do around 30mm/s. I just want better.

Here's a couple answers to questions that I know I'm going to get:

Yes, all of the parts fit on a makerbot.

Yes, there are diagonal supports that are not in the photo.

No, it's not a fab at home derivative, I haven't seen the workings of that until yesterday. (Has anyone else actually read the Stratasys patent from 1992?)

I attached an edrawing if people want to look at it. I'll post an stl of the full assembly later.
edrawingsviewer.com/index.html

Yes, that's a Makergear compact plastruder head. It's just so small, it fits perfectly. The new version will have two heads whose nozzle tips will be 18mm apart.


About timeframe, looking back on the last 3 months, I've (spent way too much time screwing around with the Makerbot) wife's quote. Now I have to get some real work done since screwing around on the makerbot doesn't pay the bills. I would expect something in a couple weeks.

Update: Here's a link to a video showing the new center gantry unit for the MiniMaker.
flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/5659332598/in/photostream

Update: Working on minimaker2 right now, here's a video of the X-Y gantry running a calibration cube at 400mm/s!: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/6550391991/in/photostream

This is a tubular drive mechanism. It is designed to use 1/2 inch aluminum conduit. This is a work in process, and I am already working on a newer version that will use dual rails. I think that this type of mechanism will work well as an linear axis drive mechanism when combined a stepper motor, and magnetic linear encoder would provide high accuracy large scale positioning.

Tubular Drive Test Fixed Drive
youtube.com/watch?v=k0G8B77UOJs

Tubular Drive Test Fixed Conduit
youtube.com/watch?v=70dTRN7zSpU

Lampara modular Reigada, formada por ensamblajes de 12 piezas ovaladas + 2 piezas base circulares

I was looking for a cable holder to attach to the side of my work bench to hold a bunch of smaller cables. I couldn't find one that was exactly what I was looking for so I made my own. It has three screw holes for easy mounting to the surface of your choice and will hold smaller cables (like USB cables) quite nicely.

It is 125mm long with 12 5mm wide slots. The ends have a 4mm raised bit to help keep your cables from sliding off.

I've included my SketchUp file if you would like to modify it to suit your needs.

Gadget freaks need batteries... Lots of batteries!

So the sensible thing to do is to use a rechargeable batteries and to keep a stock of charged batteries ready for action.

If you like me keep your charged batteries in a drawer or box, you will know that they roll around, short one another out and of course you never have any idea as to which batteries have been charged first and last. Add in a few other items, i.e. a set of keys or two, an old spare mobile phone and charger and a few favourite take-out menus and finding those batteries during for instance a power cut becomes problematic also.

I was not happy with this and put my mind to coming up with a solution. Well here it is...

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser will create a vertical storage solution for all your cylindrical battery storage needs. It contains dimensions to create AA and AAA sized dispensers but as it is near fully parametric, you can create in theory a dispenser for just about any cylindrical battery. Limitations of your 3d Printer though are likely to restrict you to smaller battery sizes.

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser prints in two halves to make it as easy as possible to print (little to no overhangs). I found the best results were to use 50% infill and 3 additional shells on my Prusa using PLA, YMMV.

The Openscad file will generate several different styles of dispenser depending on the options you pick:

1. The simplest design that comprises just two runners. This was my original design and I have printed it. It works well enough, but I found it to be a little flimsy when secured to a vertical surface.

2. The tabbed version (main photo) which is the version I decided on using for my own battery dispensers. This is has nice broad mounting tabs at the rear of the dispenser that can be sized to match double sided sticky foam. Perfect for mounting on the inside of cupboards etc.

3. The mounting plate version (untested). This version has a mounting plate that is split into two halves, Theoretically, it should make it easier to space the two halves of the dispenser to each other but it uses more plastic and I don't think its as handsome as the others

4. Spare runners. (unfinished) These are functional, but only match the simplest design of dispenser. As I can get a reasonably sized dispenser to print on my Prusa (big enough to hold 8 AA batteries)I don't really need this now. I left it in as an option though.

5. Calibration piece. There is also an option to create a small segment of one half of the dispenser. Print this to double check that the dimensions you set print well on your printer

There are also options to add mounting holes if you are using either the tabbed or back-plated styles of dispenser. The mounting holes are nominal values right now, so you will have to set the variables to values that match your screw dimensions and printer.

I am marking this item as finished as it exceeds all my cylindrical battery vertical storage requirements but you may have other improvements you wish to make. If so I apologise for the code, I am positive it could be better optimised.

Inspired by the cantilevered Z stages of the Thing-O-Matic and Ultimaker I designed this upgrade for the Makerbot Cupcake CNC. It should be possible to get 140mm of z travel with a standard x/y stage.

I've designed it to fit a standard reprap extruder. There's room for any extruder, the mounting holes for the makerbot extruder are just a bit too wide.

In addition to a bunch of m3 nuts and bolts you will need a few bits of new hardware: 2 x 268mm lengths of 8mm smooth rod, 3 x LM8UU linear bearings, and an M8 Coupler. You will also need to print one of thingiverse.com/thing:9622 to couple your z motor to the z rod. For the z rod I just hacked down one of my z rods to 185mm.

You also need a popsicle stick, an m3 x 30 bolt (fully threaded) and a printed z-endstop-adjuster part.

If there is sufficient interest I've been pondering making an upgrade kit available.

I never had any luck hobbing a bolt using the tap method. When I used my rotary tool by hand, the teeth came out uneven.

This work in progress jig should allow for either a 8mm, or 5/16" bolt (or rod with nut) to be indexed to 19 positions. The ratchet head was edited from this excellent thing: thingiverse.com/thing:8752

I put up a short 30 second video of this jig being used. I was holding the camera, and using the rotary tool and making sparks fly all at the same time. With some practice, I feel I will be able to make many bolts for my army of 3D printers.

youtu.be/KpnZK_AJLgM

- Edit -

The idea for this thing came to me after seeing many great ways/things to hob bolts. (That and after the snow I didn't want to go out to the cold work shed) My thing is an amalgamation of many of the ideas found here on Thingiverse:

thingiverse.com/thing:9291
thingiverse.com/thing:10360
thingiverse.com/thing:10110
thingiverse.com/thing:11275

I drew up some quick replacement jaws for small ratcheting clamps.


These have a 90° groove and teeth on one side for easily clamping round items.


The other jaw has is angled to account for flex in the clamps. This helps the jaws to clamp parallel.

Sorry these aren't parametric, it was just a quick Rhino sketch.

addon to ball bearing in V shape at 45 degress angle.
The angle inside the v is 90. simple trigonometry.

A thing which you can hang off your door... then hang your shirts while you iron!

(This is a work in progress but thought I would throw this up here and then add some derivatives later on)

Well, this is my first attempt.
This is a capodastre for folk guitar but it might also work for classic.I haven't printed it yet because I haven't finished my printer. No idea if it's thick enough to resist pressure. But if anybody feels like trying...

hold the toothpick as a sword and fight for that olive.
:)

Official Write-Up at protoparadigm.com/2011/12/abs-glue-weld-cast-texture-and-more/

Here's something that should make plastic life a lot easier. Fuse parts, smooth, shine and texture prints, even cast ABS at room temperature.

Laser cut case for the TubeClock IN-14 6 Tube Nixie Clock kit: store.tubeclock.com/index.php/nixie-tube-clocks/nixie-clock-kits

FabScan - Affordable 3D Laser Scanning of Physical Objects

The images on the left show some scans made by the scanner.
The software allows to automatically produce a .stl of the scanned pointcloud.

For more information on the project check this site: hci.rwth-aachen.de/FabScan

The MK7 released and I was like, huh, why get rid of the 3mm filament? I have about 20LBs of the stuff and I want to keep using it. Wouldn't it be nice to be able to do dual extrusion with 3mm filament? The next day, Makerbot put the MK6 pluses on sale. Sometimes fortune smiles...

Here is my take on a Dual MK6 plus extruder.

Here are some salient points:

Nozzle spacing of 20mm (the smaller the spacing, the larger the build space you have left that is covered by both nozzles)
Bearing idler wheels
Fits through the upper opening on the cupcake
No springs needed for tensioning
No screw plunger to have release on you in the middle of a print.

NOTE:
You will need to drill a new metal retainer plate.

Video is up: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/6273051824/ You too can hear me sound like a dork.

NEXT STEPS:

Until I get my second EC I can't see what is going on with temperature migration across the heads, there is insulation between them but I'm not sure. The reason I care is because PVA has a lower melt temp than ABS.

Based on Sandy Noble's Polargraph: polargraph.co.uk

This is the first pass at a printable gondola for a Polargraph. It works, but it could use some tweaks.

Anyone looking to improve it: the lower section arms are a little thin, and the spot for the captive nut isn't exactly sized right. I'd also beef up the upper chain mounts, as there's not much plastic outside the hole.

The motor brackets and pulleys I'm using can be found here: thingiverse.com/thing:12403

Lots more photos of the whole process here: flickr.com/photos/jabella/sets/72157627888557352/

Connects a pair of quick clamps (Silverline) together, extending them to allow you to work on larger pieces.

The nut is held in place and allow it to tighten up directly onto the bar to pull it tight.

This is the first release of the Boot-strappable Open Laser Cutter project that I've been working on for the past few months. The goal of the project is to construct an open design laser cutter with a large cut area (about 1 meter square), for about 5%-10% of the cost of a commercial system. The design draws heavily from other open laser cutter projects out there (such as the Buildlog 2X Laser Cutter) in using inexpensive aluminum extrusion and optics for most of the structural frame, while here most of the custom parts are 3D printed from ABS.

The printed parts represent about 10 hours of total printing time on a Makerbot or Reprap, and have been designed with the hope that they would be of general utility to anyone printing out a large CNC system -- not just a laser cutter. These include parts such as NEMA17 motor holders that mount onto t-slot, idler brackets, pillow block bushing mounts for motors, idlers, and shafts, and so on.

With Arthur's Day coming up, a Guinness themed coaster.
It's the Guinness harp logo extruded 5mm in height to be used as a coaster.
It's my first Thing, productive feedback will be appreciated.
Please publish pictures if you print this.

Thingiverse seems to be unable to render the part for preview, but it appears just fine in Blender, MeshLab etc.
Update: Seems SolidWorks eDrawings exports STL in meters and not mm.
Uploaded Guinness_Harp_Coaster_Large with the correct dimension and orientation.

What better way to eat a cookie, but for it to look like Domo Kun or the Rebel Alliance logo!

I suggest a shortbread cookie or something that doesn't change shape that much. This recipe works pretty well: joyofbaking.com/shortbreads/shortbreadcookies.html

I have included Inventor project files as well as the original DXFs to extrude your hearts desire.

Check out the blog post for more details here:
blog.ponoko.com/2011/09/01/fabblab-episode-15-cookie-cutters/

This mount is resized to fit the Droid X and Droid X2. Its a close fit but seems to hold the phone well.

I printed with PLA but only because my supply of ABS not yet come in. "Evo bar mount.stl" is just a re-upload from the EVO multifunctional mount design. No changes were made but I included them here for easier access.

This a pair of snap together pliers that I designed as a demonstration part to teach other students how to use the university's 3D printer. It was designed in Solidworks and built on a Stratasys 3D Printer.

I don't have a drill-column at my disposal so designed this Dremel attachment to center the 8mm bolt while hobbing.

Pictures say more than words....