A 90 degree mount for putting RAMBO on a Prusa i3. The RAMBO mounting holes fit great, but I never got around to putting in the right holes for the arduino side. Mine is just drilled to match the holes on the frame.

Re-did my handle in Inventor Fusion (just to learn the tool) and I think I like this version better anyway.

Untested, not printed yet. Will try in the next few days.

Handle for the Prusa i3 frame. I've heard the metal frame is hard to carry as the edges are sharp. This was a quick (not really, since I'm bad at OpenSCAD) and dirty (definitely) attempt at a handle for the frame.

Totally untested so far. Will change status once I try it (likely today / tomorrow)

Please read the instructions before downloading files!

All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.

Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm

And to check in on some competitors:

- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm

With the swapping of just 6 pieces*, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

How much bigger is it? The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches. The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches. (Unofficial) Replicator XL? 500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).

I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’

Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129250268/in/photostream

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129224609/in/photostream/


The smooth rods I used are: mcmaster.com/#6459K112 (8mm x 400mm)

Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame) for helping with my meager DXF editing skills. Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with broken firmware.

Just a quick one to have another car to bring for the Nerdy Derby at World Maker Faire NY.

It'll be super slow unless you fill it with something heavy - but sometimes it's not about winning, it's about rolling in crushed-velvet style.

Designed to fix a wobbly bookshelf, but it could be scaled to work as a generic corner brace for just about anything really. Most of the existing designs mount inside the shelf / cabinet, but I needed one that was rear-mount.

Two part logo for a certain NFL football team. Made for a friend.

Based on Sandy Noble's Polargraph: polargraph.co.uk

This is the first pass at a printable gondola for a Polargraph. It works, but it could use some tweaks.

Anyone looking to improve it: the lower section arms are a little thin, and the spot for the captive nut isn't exactly sized right. I'd also beef up the upper chain mounts, as there's not much plastic outside the hole.

The motor brackets and pulleys I'm using can be found here: thingiverse.com/thing:12403

Lots more photos of the whole process here: flickr.com/photos/jabella/sets/72157627888557352/

This is a ball-chain pulley for 3.5mm ball chain, intended for use as part of a Polargraph:

polargraph.co.uk/

Regular metal ball-chain was easier to locate versus the type that Sandy had used on his Polargraph.

I use a slightly modified version of Ed's stepper motor mounts as well:

softsolder.com/2011/08/23/nema-17-stepper-motor-mount/

The ball-chain I'm using came from here: kitkraft.biz/product.php?productid=8353&cat=&page=2

Update: The gondola I printed for mine is here: thingiverse.com/thing:12557 - and it works!

My first real test with Meshmixer, it's the hippo head on the standard Stanford Bunny. Seemed like a good idea at the time?

Made in meshmixer - OBJ file attached.
Bottom surface sealed in Blender - .blend file attached.
Cleaned up a little in Meshlab - .stl file attached

I probably could have smoothed out the neck seam a bit more, it looks a little gnarly when I look at the file in RepG.

Updated - Model cleaned up via netfabb.

Modded the original down for those of us with 70mm Deal Extreme LED light rings. I also have 90mm lights, but I think they'll hit the extruder arch mounting bolts....

Just took the original, imported DXF info Blender, exported as STL.

Then cleaned up in Meshlab, re-scaled, and centered it.

Designed in Tinkercad, this is a simple 20mm x 20mm stand with a cross or "groin" vault bottom. Printed vault-side up, should come out nicely.

Cross vault: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groin_vault

Reminiscent of Wajazn's relay board mount: thingiverse.com/thing:4106

Tinkercad file: tinkercad.com/p/acc0019a5f672961

The 'gangsta', smashed down 4 or 5 times into a blocky, angular form.

Used the same method as the Tron Bunny, for decimation. Only 374 faces, the normal model is 6,000.

The classic gangster mashup vs the 2011 surveillance state! I'm a rank amateur at openSCAD, so use this at your own risk.

Combination of the following items:

Gangsta (cleaned up) - thingiverse.com/thing:6891
Surveillance Camera - thingiverse.com/thing:6652

The two files are:

camsta2.stl - regular camera on the gangsta body
camsta2-lo.stl - low-rezzed camera on the usual gangsta body

Just a replacement for the stock 'bb' part on top of the bot. One of our used bots had the stock ones glued on, and we needed replacements.

Only after I made this did I realize I could probably get one from here: thingiverse.com/thing:3285

This one is an OpenSCAD extrusion of the stock .dxf cutfile from MakerBot.

NOTE! This isn't a weapon, or intended to be used as any kind of projectile. It's a model only, it'll probably break your firearm if you try to load it, it'll probably break your printer if you print it, and knowing my abhorrent OpenSCAD skills, it'll probably blow up your computer if you download it. Don't be stupid.

OpenSCAD script for generating bullet models. Amateurish code, but it seems like it'll work. Handy for making snap caps, or for designing other parts. And for people who will say 'that's a cartridge, not a bullet', I know.

Print this and it'll fill up the M shaped hole on the front of your bot. Print a few in different colors and swap them around on a whim. Prints in no time at all.

This thing will let you clip your Motorola Droid X phone into a normal Garmin Nuvi GPS windshield mount. Since Google Navigation has realtime traffic and better routing, there are a lot of times when we get better navigation info from the Droid X than we do from the Garmin.

No need to buy a $30 windshield mount if you've already got one around for a Nuvi. This just slides onto your phone, and clips into the Garmin mount like a GPS would.

Tested with Garmin Nuvi 200w and 205w mounts, which are probably the same as a ton of other Garmins.

This is a replacement for a broken part on the ping pong table at work. Both original parts are broken, so I modeled a new one in Sketchup and printed replacements. The part fits and worked on the first try. Pictured are the OEM broken piece, the part it goes into, and comparisons to the final printed part.

Designed by wajazn ( thingiverse.com/wajazn ) and cleaned up by me, it's based on the old token design (see: images.nycsubway.org/tokens/token2.jpg ). This is a simplified 'coin' style version.

This is one of the files we're printing for handouts at the 3D Printer Village at MakerFaire NYC.

3dprintervillage.posterous.com/

For people running the smaller z-axis drive pulley with ACME threaded rods, the normal range of adjustment for the belt tension is just BARELY enough. These pulleys have oversized hubs so that the adjustment will be back to normal ranges.

The ACME Rod install and tuning is documented here: abella.net/?page_id=306

Drawn in Sketchup, just a badge for my laptop bag for The Next HOPE in NYC this weekend.

Great for slipping into your phone before you hand it off to a child to play a game, this just blocks the 'home' button. This one is sized for an iPhone 4.

Don't lose your page, it's a bookmark! Works well, isn't too thick. We went through at least 5 revisions, but this seems to be the best version so far.

Modified kickstand for the new iPhone 4. Since nobody's got an iPhone4 to test yet it's obviously just based on the specs only, but it should be close enough to work. I'll print one and hit the Apple store when the phones are released. Note: Updated with better size, should fit fine now. Also fixed the round tail section so that the overhangs will work.

Similar to the design of a popular commercial iPhone stand, I drew this in SketchUp from scratch. Holds an iPhone 3g / 3gs in either landscape or portrait orientation. It can be slid up / down the phone to change the angle and seems to hold great. I also added a small hole to it so it can be tied on a keychain or anything.

Again, just learning Sketchup, but though this might be useful to someone.