MORE PRINT VOLUME:

- Increased the lateral separation of 234 mm to 250 mm.

- It has moved 10 mm heated platform down.

- The resulting print volume depends on the platform and the extruder that we place but you can easily get a size bigger than 190 x 190 x 100 mm.

MORE ROBUST:

- The thickness of the acrylic has risen to 6 mm.

- The introduction of a crosspiece to give more rigidity.

- In the attachment points of the rods can be placed brimmed washers (DIN9021).

DESING MADE CONSIDERING THE WIRING:

- The electronics is on the left side of the printer, it is placed horizontally to get the cable up coming from above.

- Parts acrylic have holes or slots provided for wiring.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Like last time, the magnificent infographics have been made with Cinema 4D + VRay by PIKELO.

SPANISH VERSION AT:

reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire#PRUSA_AIR_2.2C_Redise.C3.B1o

ALREADY PUBLISHED THE NEW VERSION PRUSA AIR 2 AT thingiverse.com/thing:14204

Since I discovered the RepRap project I was surprised how much knowledge could be stored in an Internet community. I was impressed as a practical invention was able to born and grow in the network through the collaboration of specialists in various fields such as mechanics, electronics, computers ... all around the world.

In the mechanical field, It was a revolution when Josef Prusa got dramatically simplify the construction of a RepRap Mendel, current resulting Prusa, that has become a standard in building a RepRap. This also achieved make it much easier a person to be able to build a 3D printer.

The Prusa Air drinks from this spirit and tries to give a twist to the construction of a 3D printer. Its design is based on three basic principles:

1) To simplify the manufacturing and assembly (KISS principle).
2) Designing parts the cheapest way to be able to meet the requirements.
3) A little beauty.

With these guidelines, the use of RP parts is reduced for "commercial" pieces but always bearing in mind that they were readily available worldwide.

The changes are basically:

A) Most of the frame rods and RP pieces has been replaced by three pieces of acrylic embedded between them. They have followed all the design dimensions of Prusa, so for size, trips, electronics, firmwares... it works as a Prusa.

B) One of the sides of the typical Mendel triangle has been removed, resulting in a work area more accessible.

C) The holes for the rods have been changed so that the rods can be removed without having to completely unscrew the nuts.

D) The X and Z axis haven’t changed, they are exactly the same of a Mendel Prusa, the Y axis, as the guides are placed in the same way, you can choose to place a traditional Y-axis or mount a Y-axis with integrated heated platform like this: thingiverse.com/thing:11657.

All the infographics was made by Pikelo with Cinema 4D + Vray.

There is a wiki page writen in Spanish: reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire

This is a pretty quick & simple variation of Emmett's original design.

It's simply his original body geometry with a few holes added to conserve plastic & help minimize warping. Nothing all that fancy... but does look pretty neat and does help with warping.

Thanks to Emmett for his excellent design! Everything worked great!

This moon rover is pretty simple; the real point is the treads. The idea of turning my Stretchy Bracelet into tank tracks is thanks to BenRockhold. Turns out it works really well: if you push this around on a slightly grippy surface like carpet, the tracks roll easily.

In fact, the track keys into the wheels so well, this could probably be used as a timing belt or chain.

Very much a work in progress! This is an odometer for filament! It should measure filament by the centimeter so you can have a real measurement for filament used! The base it attaches to slides on to the counter assembly, so you can chose different mounts for it, but the first mount is for a ToM endcap.

I'm currently printing the first set of parts to validate the design, after some tweaks, I'll upload the first working design to share and build from!

The next version will have a second resettable counter. I will also provide just the counter mechanism as a separate "thing" once I make sure everything works okay.

One Box with one hinge and a second box with two hinges

This is a derivative of the Folding Wood Booklet, a great implementation of living hinges in wood.

I redrew the design and made it into a box, suitable for trinkets, cards, photos, small papers.

The hinge is quite durable, but not ineducable. I don't feel like I would wear it out with frequent use. It's also surprisingly flexible for being made of wood.

I plan on using more living hinges in wood from now on.

My printer 3d (Orca v0.2), has a cooling fan (40x40) that blows air towards the top of hotend (extruder motor area). I realizzaro this project to add air jet on the pieces that are printed, to prevent warping, especially if they are of small size and high print speeds. This project allows you to use a single fan (60x60) for both goals. A flow diverter, activated with a lever, you can choose whether to send only hotend air with the fan running slow, or also on the piece in print. In this case, a microswitch bypasses a resistance and the fan runs at full speed.

So for the project you need a resistance of 40Ω (approximately), and a microswitch (I salvaged from an old mouse).

Unlike the simple cooling fan directed on the piece in print, this directs to flow where it is needed, avoiding hotend cool.

The photo with the two cubes 10x10 (printed at 130 mm/s), show the difference.

Well, one printed part anyway. You still need to put in some tubing. After having some trouble with the first peristaltic pump I tried, I did some Google-ing and came across this:
microfluidics.stanford.edu/Publications/Micropumps_Cooling/Shkolnikov-selfpriming-rollerfree-minature-peristaltic-pump.pdf

It is basically a diaphragm pump with the check valves and diaphragm integrated into a single piece of plastic. The best performing version so far can be viewed here:

youtu.be/fRKeDQPz7xw

With some more tweaking I'm sure it can be made better. The nice thing about it is that it requires very little plastic, and is very compact. In the paper they drive it with an eccentric cam. Naturally I want to make some computer-controlled colored-water tubing thing with a bunch of these now. Also, real 3d-printed squirt guns.

Update: There is currently a problem with this pump that doesn't arise until a few days after assembly. Presumably due to creep, the downstream valve slowly loses its ability to seal completely, resulting in greater backflow and then failure. I will experiment but I may not be able to solve this problem without adding pieces (thinking of a set screw plunger sort of deal).

Version History:

V2 (11/1/2011): Improved stroke volume and reduced backflow.

These are velcro mounts for the GoPro Hero video camera. They were designed to easily attach to RC plane fuselages and wings. I have since used them to attach the camera to my leg and helmet. They work remarkably well.

I used these mounts to film this video of my RC glider: youtube.com/watch?v=3jVroP8jzSQ

Update: After numerous flights, and other unplanned uses, the mounts are holding up well.

Slope Combat: youtube.com/watch?v=hyWu5y56QWc

This is my design of a peristaltic pump or hose pump if you translate it directly from german.

I built this pump for reseach to gather basic hands-on knowledge of the inner workings.

If you have a MakerBot/3D Printer you can start right away. I built it in a few hours with common parts i had at hand.

Unfortunately you definitly NEED a very flexible silicone tubing, to get it really working. I did my first try with a short piece of tube i cut from our fish tank - this was definitely to hard for the ABS. unfortunately i was to eager to pump some water, so i did, but the contraption got too hot and broke.

The Pictures are from the rebuilt, but this time i'm waiting to get the silicone tube.

Currently there are no mounting holes for a motor. i used my electric screwdriver for testing. Gearmotor is planned, but i had to determine the required torque with this build.

An enclosure for the Arduino and Ethernet shield that can be laser cut from sheet acrylic. Provides access to the USB port, DC jack, Ethernet port, SD card slot, reset button, and pin headers.

The enclosure is based on the standard Arduino enclosure:
thingiverse.com/thing:5029

It has been resized and has additional port cut-outs. Furthermore, the hole for the rest button has been moved to align with the button on the Ethernet shield.

The case was designed using measurements from an Arduino Uno board and a Arduino Ethernet shield v5.

Made at the London Hack Space:
london.hackspace.org.uk/

This is a completely customizable Arduino case made with OpenScad. You can configure the height and thickness of the walls and bottom of the case.

How many times have you wanted to mount your arduino in a project in a non permanent manner but weren't able to because you didn't have the right hardware or spacers? Well, I have had that happen a few times, and it sucks, so I made a printable holder that you can simply clip the arduino into.

I'm thinking of adding onto this project and making project cases that this slides into, or battery holders, or robot legs. Hell, I don't know, with this technology practically anything is possible.

EDIT: I have added a .3DS and .SKP version as well, so if you see ways to upgrade it or want to modify it to better fit your own project, please feel free to do so!

I liked Darthwahl's version but wanted the extra post. Also, my board fit REALLY tight inside the clips - enough to cause the bottom to warp. I adjusted the clips a little and added a post. Once I consider a few mounting options, I plan to either add screw blocks or holes for mounting.

I needed to add a cable chain to my homebuilt CNC machine. A little help from Corel Draw and my Full Spectrum 40 watt laser I made my own. Settings 30% speed 70% power. Material thickness is .08

This simple noisy gadget uses a method known since the 19th century to generate the notes of a scale: the number of teeth on each gear corresponds to the frequency of a note, so when you let something buzz against each gear, you'll hear the corresponding note. Here's a video of the thing in action: flickr.com/photos/ranjit/5472598312/

This set of gears creates a just intonation diatonic scale - all the pitch ratios are related by simple fractions. The gears have 24, 27, 30, 32, 36, 40, 45 and 48 teeth.

You could use an optical sensor like a photo interrupter to pick up the pitches, or if you cut the gears from steel, you could use magnetic pickups like the Telharmonium did back in 1898! synthmuseum.com/magazine/0102jw.html

This gauge measures the roundness of a corner of a part. This is useful when trying to reverse engineer the dimensions of a part.