For Maker Faire this year I made a second version of my BlinkM Cylon: BlinkM Cylon mkII. This is not a very cost-effective way of getting a Cylon effect. It however is a good way of showing how to wire up multiple BlinkMs with a long cable, using the new WireM cabling kit for BlinkM. And unlike normal Cylon circuits, this has full RGB color effects and gradual fading.

It features a snap-fit laser-cut enclosure.

For details on the circuit see:
todbot.com/blog/2011/05/29/blinkm-cylon-mkii/

This is a more pyramidal form of the original CrashSpace 3D Logo. thingiverse.com/thing:1770

I thought a pyramid form was better from a build standpoint (fewer strings) and I think the pyramidy aspect of it is appropriate for this logo.

Here is a simple enclosure for a LinkM USB-to-I2C adapter for programming BlinkMs. ( linkm.thingm.com/ ) Normally LinkM comes with an enclosure, but if you want to make a custom one for yourself, you can use this as a template.

The enclosure is made so it will snap together and not need glue. (Though adding a dab of glue once assembled will make a strong fit)

The basic form of this enclosure will likely work for other USB "fob" sized devices. Make custom enclosures for your USB thumb drives!

A small stand suitable useful for things like watching movies on the iPad. Made of three pieces of 1/4" (6mm) acrylic. The pieces friction-fit together and the stand can be quickly broken down and set up, so it's easy to toss in a bag.

The spacing of the stand legs is narrow enough to not get in the way of the dock connector, or the power button or volume buttons if the iPad is put in the stand upside down.

Feel free to add your own engraved logos or images to the side legs!

Here is a simple dock made from acrylic, machine screws, and an existing iPhone/iPod cable.

It is made of four slices of 1/4″ acrylic (actual width 0.22″). The top two slices have an oval opening just snug enough to fit the ipod connector and keep it in place with friction. The third slice has a channel for the cable to escape out the back, and the bottom slice keeps the cable from falling out and provides some pushback when the iphone is inserted. It’s held together by four 1″ 2-56 machine screws with nuts. I was a little concerned with the nuts scratching the table, so I’ve since added little hot glue feet to the bottom of each nut.

I didn’t add an additional layer at the top to provide lateral support of the iphone because I didn’t have long enough screws. And besides, it doesn’t seem to need it. If I get longer screws, I might make one that has the extra layer, which would also make the dock bigger, to encompass the bottom of the iPhone. And that would be good because it adds more mass to the dock, making it more stable.

Also, see: todbot.com/blog/2009/07/15/quickie-laser-cut-iphoneipod-dock/