A bracelet for everyone who likes it...!

Print and give away as a present!


see also facebook.com/europerminutedesign

This is a derivation of the "Enclosed Cable Carrier" by Landru

It is larger.

Hinge geometry changed for better movement, it takes more force to separate the links.

Completely redrawn (I've forgotten all that I changed).

Two styles of end pieces created.

This i my new version of the polygon tool for openscad
How it works ?
See:

youtube.com/watch?v=WKc6qX1RTyY

It generates a openscad file but this time it writes modules so you can use it as a library.

O there is also a online version
protorabbit.nl/flash/polygonrabbit/PolygonRabbit.html

You can now:
move the points :-)
delete points
add point
add points to a closed path(shift drag in add mode)

add modules
delete modules
duplicate modules (handy)


dont forget to set openscad in automatic reload for more fun instant update

Please let me know what you think of it


UPDATE:2011-11-29
Oeps the air updated te air app uploaded here from version 0.6 to 0.7 (0.6 should autoupdated but it did not have to look at that when i have time). So update the app with the file here or from my website.

This is a little screw cap that you can print on your UP Printer and then glue onto the heads of the screws that hold the print platform to the heater base. This allows you to easily remove the print platform without needing the Allen key. I use epoxy to glue them onto the screws andput it in a little vice until the epoxy dries.

This is an UP printer spool adapter. This adapter allows larger diameter wound abs to fit on a used UP printer spool.

this 12 inch mirror reflects lots of light from an addressable LED strip. I sized it to match the exact length of 1m 32 LED strip. I also cut spacers to make the mirrored surface and the front surface exactly parellel. this makes for a very nice straight infinite tunnel effect.

Some receptacle forms for slicing/hacking.

Here are 15 basic printable (without support) shapes than can be produced in 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 100 sided versions.
That's over 300 basic shapes before scaling, chopping, merging, etc.
I've posted up the 100 sided versions as STLs and some examples of the others so that you can just print them if you don't feel like playing with OpenSCAD. If you can't find the one you want, let me know the shape and how many sides and I'll pop up an STL for you.

I think that's enough for now - maybe I'll make some lids for them another time.

Use these connectors to connect dowels and make kites of your own design. Can also be used for anything that uses dowels as well.

The pins in this version are a little stronger and their slightly different shape makes them easier to insert and less likely to break. It also lets you make pegs which are printed horizontally so they are much stronger. Pegs can be used to join two parts that have holes in them. The pinholes also now have a small bevel in them to help make it easier to insert.

The syntax is totally different as well. It was kind of dumb to use global variables in the last version, now you pass the variables to each method so it's easier to have pins of various sizes in one project.

This is the same item as hippiegunnut's thingiverse.com/thing:12307, tweaked very slightly with an optional lid added.

Pimp your bot ! These instructions detail how to build software controllable RGB Mood Lighting for your ToM. The mood light is controllable via a new menu on the Gen 4 LCD Interface or via GCodes in ReplicatorG.

Your bot can now show it's build status via the color of the mood light.

Video (showing functionality):
youtube.com/watch?v=g3D0ScY6-dg
Video (mood light to music):
youtube.com/watch?v=FQDFPfnHu9o

Additionally, you can set your own RGB color, pick from a predefined list. Also you can pick animated color scenes, for example a Thunderstorm complete with Lightning flashes or signal S.O.S.

This is a beginners level project, with a tiny bit of soldering, and is designed for ToM Motherboard V2.4 (the version currently shipping).

Required parts are a BlinkM MaxM, RGB Led Strip, a couple of resistors and some bits and pieces you likely have lying around. (full parts list in the pdf).

You'll also need:

- The new Gen 4 Firmware: thingiverse.com/thing:15380
- BlinkM MaxM Holder: thingiverse.com/thing:15374

This bracelet has no clasp; instead you can stretch it over your hand and onto your wrist. It was inspired partially by the Springamathing: thingiverse.com/thing:12053. The design on the outside was inspired by MakeALot's link bracelet: thingiverse.com/thing:7354.

UPDATE: At the request of nycdesigner, a couple of alternate designs are now also available.

Carefully hand modeled in C4D, this lovely box cradles your BlinkM controller in loving ABS. You'll need a rubber band or something similarly classy to keep the lid on, though it fits pretty snuggly. There is also no built-in means of attaching it to anything (like your TOM's z-stage assembly). Finally, there's nothing really holding the board in place, so it can jiggle around. Easy solutions abound. I settled for double sided mounting tape and a test cylinder.

There are holes for DC power, 4-pin out to your RGB lights, and 4-pin in from Arduino or a LinkM. The LinkM fits right in there.

I just wanted something to hold our blinkM in a happy box. Said box could be improved in a million ways.

This is a prototype animatronic tail, OpenScan designed 3D printed on a 3D printer and controlled by Arduino.

This is a small test:
youtube.com/watch?v=d1k9p1P4s8I

I attached in a text document the code that use to control the servo with arduino.

Uses the number of vertebrae that want, i use 10 plus the final. I put a rubber cord in the side holes to keep the tail as, in the other holes, i put a normal string attached to the wheel. And so that the rope does not slip from the wheel put some small aluminum rings.

I hope you like ;)

Quick and dirty Alien Egg like lamp design to test my new Ultimaker... this is a real challenge to print without getting stringing in the side holes.

Tri-Track robot chassis is based on Sublime 100mm wheel base track system. This design incorporates dual servo motors that are mounted above the chassis. This design allows for mounting a robot body or arm between the tracks. The battery pack and electronics will be moved as the design progresses.
Frame has been significantly strengthened to accommodate for the added stresses and to increase weight capacity.

UPDATE

12-20-11
Added platform base for mounting robot body or arm.

12/21-11 Added additional files

1-08-12
Rendered BaseLeft and BaseRight in two pieces, this enables them to be printed on a MakerBot. The two piece files are: BaseleftP1, BaseleftP2, BaserightP1, BaserightP2

There are errors in the Tri-Track Frame file. This fils is still printable. We are working on correcting errors.

1-12-12
Redesigned and added New Tri-Track Frame for Solid Axle construction. File Name: Tri-Track Frame For Solid Axle v1

Short video of Tri-Track in motion:

youtu.be/KcNyt-GK2NU

My plan is to build a two armed robot around this motorized platform.

CREDIT

Original Track design by Olalla
See thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Servo Mount is by Hoeken. thingiverse.com/thing:5165 This is printed horizontally for strength.

Official Write-Up at protoparadigm.com/2011/12/abs-glue-weld-cast-texture-and-more/

Here's something that should make plastic life a lot easier. Fuse parts, smooth, shine and texture prints, even cast ABS at room temperature.

A simple piece of Acrylic with bolt holes to secure an Arduino and space to attach a 400 point breadboard beside it.

(it seems silly but they're really helpful)

(shameless plug)
We like to describe ourselves as a plucky little design house. We focus on producing delightfully fun, open source products.

Don't have access to a laser cutter and in the UK? We've opened up our web shop.

http://www.oomlout.co.uk

(we also sell other lovely Arduino bits and bobs)

Order the Botmobile Kit from the MakerBot Store at store.makerbot.com/makerbot-botmobile.html and you'll have all the parts you need to get your printed Dune Buggy going in no time!

The wind in your hair... The sun on your face... The sand in your teeth... Everyone loves a day out cruising the dunes in their trusty Botmobile Dune Buggy!

The Botmobile Dune Buggy is an open source 3d printed remote control car that you can build at home. Using the Botmobile chassis the Dune Buggy was built from the ground up as a completely new type of remote control car

See video of the Botmobile Dune Buggy in action: youtu.be/tQIfChZZTog

Introducing: The MakerBot Dynamo!

Ever wish you could convert some of that youthful energy into something a bit more useful? Well using the MakerBot Dynamo kit, store.makerbot.com/makerbot-dynamo.html now you can!

The MakerBot Dynamo is worlds first opens-source, human powered, energy creation device!

Just crank the handle to create real, honest, hardworking electricity.

How do you know its working? Well there's an LED that lights up or course! See your effort in action as it's converted from motion to electricity to light!

And if a LED not exciting enough for you, just think of all the other wonderful things you can power, one hand crank at a time.

See Video of the Dynamo in action: youtu.be/8Brkd5BL_gU

Turn your pencils into a couple of stacked cooling towers, very cool(ing)
I got the idea from a suggestion by relet thingiverse.com/relet

A Moineau pump is a type of positive displacement pump with steady flow (no pulsing). This type of pump is common in the food processing industry because it can efficiently pump slurries (like soup) without crushing the contents. This one pumps 32 cc/revolution (neglecting whatever leaks back through the seals) and is capable of pumping water (milk is shown for contrast).

I thought this might be useful as a paste extruder or something of that nature. It's better than a peristaltic pump because no flexible hose is needed (which tend to reduce efficiency and wear out), plus it doesn't pulse.

This is a small ball caster to be used on robots or other things that need to roll.

The openscad file is set up to easily tweak values for commonly changed parameters:

Ball Diameter
Airgap - How much play between the ball and the wall
Ball protrusion - How much the ball should stick out of the housing.
Total Height.
Base thickness.
Mounting screw radius.
Spread between the mounting screws.

I've started playing with a parameter to switch between two different mounting types. This isn't done yet which is why the part is marked as a work-in-progress.

Ears will create a part as shown in the picture. Meant to be mounted with two external screws.

Center Screw would have a counter sunk screw in the center of the main cylinder. The caster could then be screwed in before the ball is snapped into place.

My reprap isn't particularly well tuned but the ball spins freely.

I'm incorporating this design directly into scout. thingiverse.com/thing:13042

Scout is a printable tribot designed for teaching the Boy Scout robotics merit badge. scouting.org/scoutsource/BoyScouts/AdvancementandAwards/MeritBadges/mb-ROBO.aspx

I've marked this as a derivative of MiniSkyBot because I was inspired by it and because Scout still uses the wheels from that project.

The frame itself is a complete redesign with similar but different goals.

Goals:
Provide a kit that meets the merit badge requirements with parts totaling < $50 USD.

-Minimum printed parts
-Minimum vitamins
-Accommodate an arduino diecimila or nano.
-use a 9V battery.
-Flexible enough to allow boys to improve and extend the design.

The frame is a single printed piece. The tabs for holding the servo motors can be tapped with a 4mm tap to avoid the need for nuts.

The top holes can be tapped with a 3mm tap to screw on an arduino without nuts.

The bracket will hold a 9v battery with just friction. The rear battery bracket has a friction fit cup for a ball bearing caster.

Large holes in the bracket minimize the amount of plastic needed and allow wires to be routed up to the arduino.

Cost
Since affordability was a major consideration, here's a run down of the final project cost.

The plastic cost is just the cost of a roll divided by the number of kits we built. There was lots of plastic left over and the boys are using it to design improvements.

Frame & Wheels $7.86 (plastic from Makerbot)
Tires (2) $2.36 (Hardware store o-rings)
4mm bolts (4) $0.84
wheels screws (4) $0.96
Servos futaba (2) $8.38 (purchased new in bulk on ebay)
Arduino Nano $18.99 (purchased new on ebay)
Ultrasonic $3.90 (purchased new on ebay)
9v connector $0.81 (Radio Shack)
DC power plug $1.86 (Radio Shack)
9V battery $1.25
Total: $47.21

The arduino hardcase is a lasercut acrylic case that protects your arduino's ports and headers from being knocked off in a bag or backpack. It also provides a standard bolt pattern for mounting the arduino on another project. Holes cut in top piece allow easy access to the headers and the reset button, and with slight modifications shields could be added/enclosed.

This is a trick dovetail joint. When assembled it looks impossible, but it's trivially simple to open.

I've searched online and found lots of other people have independently invented this mechanism, probably going back over a century. Some designs have added latches and machinery, but some details are universal!

This is a small stand for the Arduino UNO for testing code and/or connecting to senors and other projects.

In the book -the Da Vinci Code- a cryptex plays an important role. The cryptex is a cylinder with an important document in it, protected by a code word which can be set by turning rings around the cylinder. This thing contains the files to print the parts which make a fully functional cryptex which can be printed on a 3D printer.

Three other cryptex designs are on thingiverse: thingiverse.com/thing:1751, thingiverse.com/thing:2695, thingiverse.com/thing:2708, but this design was started independently based on ideas found in instructables.com. The other thingiverse designs do not contain pictures and seem to have some design issues which probably means they were not completely finished.

A short video showing this cryptex in operation can be found on youtube: youtube.com/watch?v=BjUNWvj0Q68

The printer used is my repstrap printer which is documented in the blog: pasutx.blogspot.com

My adapted version of the Cyptex. This version has its own 'pins' built into the inner tube so you don't have to worry about sticking in bits of filament. This one is also slightly smalled (87mm high) in order to fit easily on my Huxley.

This is my first version of a R/C steerable bristlebot. I was inspired by the Evil Mad Scientist Labs' design(http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/bristlebot), but I wanted to make a cheap, vector-steerable bristlebot, and this is what I came up with. Powered by two vibrating motors and two toothbrush heads (read the EMSL post to see more about what types of toothbrushes work), this little bot scoots around the floor at delightful speeds. It's like the scrubbing bubbles mascot and a hummingbird had a kid.

Video of an early prototype doin' its thang is here: flickr.com/photos/bridgewalker/6276616359/in/photostream