Fully parametric NACA 4 digit Airfoil/Wing profile calculator

NOw includes Eliptical and semi eliptical wing profiles too!

Copyright 2011. Author: David Buzz. email: davidbuzz@gmail.com

for more details, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_airfoil

The default profile is 8412, which is a popular profile.

This is a direct drive extruder mechanism that fits with the hotend and dinos of a MK5-6. I wanted to move to a stepper drive extruder but didn't want to wait three weeks for makerbot to ship their new beefy nema 17. I also had a lot of issues with the delrin plunger.

I liked the idea of a ball bearing to provide the pressure between the filament and the drive wheel as in a wade's but didn't like the 4 bolts to adjust to change filament.

My other design goals were to leave everything as accessible as possible and provide some mechanical advantage where it makes sense. The worm grove in the drive gear is made very close to the face of the motor while the motor shaft ball bearing rides at the end of the motor shaft while having the shaft pass completely through it. I also increased the length of the teflon guide tube to come to right below the drive wheel.

The pivoting arm that applies pressure to the filament forcing it against the drive gear allows one screw and spring pair to take the job of four. It also means that the screw can be backed off completely and the arm rotated out of the way to provide access without having to be completely removed. The relative positions of the bearing and tensioning screw on the arm give something like a 2:1 advantage of filament pinch strength vs spring force.

I also included a hat that accepts a piece of sponge or similar to remove dust from the filament as it is being drawn into the extruder. The hat as well can pivot out of the way and has a sloping bottom to make it simpler to feed new filament through.

The sizing for everything is imperial in this case but I can make other versions is people have specific requests, I'll also include the source files.

After many little pieces, I am finally able to construct a delta robot that is mostly made of printed parts.

This thing is a delta robot frame. There is the basic frame, mounted motors, arms, tool holder, and the like. The arms closest to the motors are printed plastic notched spans. The longer arms are wood dowels, with tape on their ends to enhance the friction fit into their fittings.

Steel rods in this case are 5/16". The size doesn't really matter, you can select any size as long as the vertices match.

the size is 2' on edge. that's a pretty huge build area if you decided to use this robot as a 3D printer.

It's a good platform for experimenting with various delta robot ideas. The arms will be replaced with carbon fiber. The 'bearings' will be replaced with brash, with 1/4" axles, the motors will be replaced with servos, etc.

At any rate, at least a model can be built, with not too many different types of materials. There isn't a fastener on the whole thing. Of course if it were actually moving, you'd probably find places where you'd want some fasteners, but that's the whole point of the experiment anyway.

Some interesting aspects of the design:
This is an endoskeleton. It can take a 'skin', but it's not required for structural support.
The tetrahedron is a fairly stable self supporting structure.
No threaded fasteners, other than the threaded rods themselves
Use zip ties to hold the little motor board in place. That board could be gotten rid of entirely if the motors mounted to the rod instead

UPDATE: 05022011
Changed male and female clevis part counts. They were 24 ea, and they should have been 12.

UPDATE: 06022011
Created a page on RepRap as this is more of a development project than I think is appropriate for Thingiverse
reprap.org/wiki/PolyBot

UPDATE: 27022011
There have been many parts updates. I've included a new picture with the servos and new arms, as well as the base plate in place. I've added a video on YouTube of the thing in action: youtube.com/watch?v=VzWJDWvJvqo

A simple tool for an old job: making nets (whether for fishing, hammocks or other purposes) from thin line of some sort. See my short description at
runcnc.wordpress.com/2010/12/03/modern-tools-for-old-crafts/

The SAE variation of the Prusa Mendel is in a constant state of development, and that being true, Thingiverse is not the appropriate places to hold these files. Please go directly to the prusa mendel github at:

github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

I strongly suggest you follow the calibration routine Prusajr describes in this video:

youtube.com/watch?v=kwQzp2hvcBI

This will insure that your fasteners will fit correctly.

We all need a great moustache from time to time..

But if you happen to posses a double X chromosome configuration it is highly unlikely you will ever grow a full blown moustache.
But do not worry! This moustaches can be clamped to a bottle of your favourite softdrink or beer and give you instant manliness.

Remember: With great mustache comes great responsibility.


I found a picture of a similar design on the internets and made this svg myself.
As I dont know who had the idea for the original design i was not able to contact the original designer. If you find out let me know =)

Here is my take on merging the lowrider and the mendel inspired y carriage for the cupcake.

link to bearings:
vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/3mm/623ZZ10-1

I went with smaller bearings than the Mendel because it allowed me to do everything with M3 screws and it allowed me to drop the height a bit.

This design is shorter than the standard platform by 10mm, I was pushing for more, but the bearings killed the height gains. It does mean that you can gain back about half of the height that you loose by putting in the automatic build platform.

Also, the y rails have been separated to 70mms so hopefully that means that the platform is a bit more stable.

I attached the solidworks file for people who want to play (WARNING - the file is messy and I was bad and made all of my parts in one part file). If you would like any other formats like .igs, .step and the like, just shout.

Should have all of the holes teardropped later today. - Truncated teardrop holes are up, that's a pain.

Update:
The stl files from solidworks would not slice in Rep G, I have no idea why, if you know please tell me.

I reuploaded all of the stl files and tested them in Rep G 19 they seem to work but I will not have a chance to print until Monday.

I have all of the parts, now on to the debug... so you do not have to...

The updated files are in the zip file, I got rid of the first generation of parts. Things were moved around a bit and these are the updates after printing round one and putting it into the makerbot. I should have all of the gen 2 parts printed and through debug tomorrow.

Update 2 - I got the bearings in and other that a few "What the hell was I thinking..." moments that were easily repaired with an X-acto knife, everything went great. I'm in the process of printing the gen 3 parts and everything should be cool now. I'll post pictures and video once the final draft is printed.

Update 3 - In process of using gen 3 platform to print gen 4 platform. Once I have printed and assembled it, I will upload files. I think that will be it for variations.

Update 4 - Gen 5 files are out and I can now say you can download them and print!

Update 5 - Instructions are up.

Update 6 - I just uploaded the gen 7 version - I have not had a chance to print it yet, I was getting annoyed with the slight curve in my heat spreader and decided to rip it apart and lap it until it was flat.

This update addresses:

Adding nut pockets on all adjusting screws for bearing tension to make adjusting easier (do not have to hold nut in place)

Back X bearings cluster has been reworked so the is less interference with the X pulley.

Back X bearing adjustment screw head has been nested into the plastic to have less interference with X belt.

Interference between Y belt attachment nuts and plastic bodies has been addressed

X belt attachment point has been lowered.

First shot at integrating endstops have been added.


I think that that is about it. I will shout when the directions have been updated, everything should be the same except the endstop part.

If you have already printed this and do not want to reprint, reprint parts 09 and 16, those have to do with X belt and pulley issues. (and they are small)

I just sent out the third package of nuts, washers, and screws. If anyone else wants them, just message me.

Gaffertape kindly updated the files so if you are using the older repG and skeinforge, use the resaved gen 7 files.

Update: Finally updated for mechanical endstops, instructions still need to be updated though.

Depreciated: This item has been replaced by version 2, a 100% printable spool holder, located at thingiverse.com/thing:8317 Please refer to that file, which is a much better design.

I liked BrokenToaster's idea of a bearing-driven filament spool holder, but that version was too big to fit on a Makerbot print bed. I separated the arms from the hub, making a tight-fitting dovetail joint to connect the pieces without any hardware. It now fits on a Makerbot print bed!!!


EDIT: At Wajazn's suggestion, I added a version that integrates a printable bearing from thingiverse.com/thing:4312 . Disclaimer, I have NOT tried to print it, but it should work.

UPDATE: (1/22/2011) I added a solid version of the integrated bearing hub that has no spokes to avoid the problem people were having with one of the hollows printing solid. I just skeined it in 0035 and it looks good.

This is a ring from the Improbablecog: Division of Human Adornment line.

I print them in stainless steel through the Shapeways service, and have also made them available to be printed at cost at: shapeways.com/shops/improbablecog


This piece has been released under a Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike License, through funding collected via Kickstarter, due to the support of the following patrons:
BJ Becker, Boon Sheridan, brepettis, Brian Hawkins, CatFord, Edvard Immonen, Edward Henderson II, GothicCharmSchool, Helen, Ian Nusbaum, Jack C, Jake von Slatt, James Ian Burns, Jess, Jezcabelle, Johnny B Jackson, Katt Tewksbury, Kim Dancy, Lastwear, Leila Smith, Libby Bulloff, Lucas Richter, Lyssa Chartrand, Malcolm Tredinnick, Marguerite Kenner, Melody Burdett, morbidity.unlimited, Nick Setten, Patrick Ball, Peter Simon, Raymond McCauley, Robert Schouwenburg, Sara Mitchell, Sigrid Ellis, strand, Sue Jackson, Theodore Minick

Because of their contributions, you are free to print this model at cost, download the original model files use it, modify it, and even sell physical copies, with the following restrictions:

- All derivative work must be released under the same license.
- You must attribute the original design to Noah Beasley or Improbablecog, and to the URL improbablecog.com

Also, if you do anything cool and interesting with this model, please drop me a line and let me know about it! I would love to promote your modifications, and point people your way to see it.
If you do decide to sell physical prints of this model, that's also allowed so long as you attribute the design. I would be glad to list you as a local reseller on my website as well if you let me know about it :)

That's it, otherwise have fun!

For more information about the work I do, check out: improbablecog.com

These are the files for the first prototype of a clay extruding print head for a Bits From Bytes Rapman. Its a slightly improved version of the one we use for printing our initial ceramics objects (http://unfoldfab.blogspot.com). The design is based on the Frostruder by Zach Hoeken from Makerbot but uses one double action solenoid valve instead of two single action ones. It is important to note that it was never designed with elegance or easy printability in mind, its just a quick and dirty prototype.

"temporary water supply" This one is for a gem faceting machine. Also valve on recycled water jug cannot be adjusted; its either on or off. The Vader Clamp allows the water flow to be metered or adjusted.

Here is a squeeze buckle like you normally have on a backpack or hiking gear. I removed all of the supports for a strap on the fork part, since it just wasn't printing properly.

Also the fork fits into the sleeve in only one direction, due to the edits I had to make to make it printable.

Enjoy!

I found a couple of Mr Potato Head bodies in a box the other day that were missing almost all the parts so I've set out on a quest to design and print replacement parts, as well as completely new parts.
So far it's just the standard ear, a kind of fantasy stye elf like ear (or Vulcan), and but I'll add more as I go.


The "Bionic Potato" name comes from Andrew Plumb aka Clothbot and I thought it was pretty cool!

Our upstairs neighbor is Aoki Sushi, and I was challenged to make a sake box. I made this design out of 6mm cherry plywood, and am currently gluing it together. I'm pretty sure it's not water tight, and Elmers wood glue is not the answer for holding in sake, but who knows, it might work :)

If you know of a good food and alcohol safe wood treatment, please leave it in the comments.

A hook that you can clip onto then end of a horizontal surface, such as a tabletop, bookshelf, etc. to hang things on.

I'm using it for hanging a basket with filament on. I'm using Vik's Y-bearing holder to make sure that it can rotate (see thingiverse.com/thing:921 ). I put a loop of rope through the two holes that hang over this tabletop clip.

Version 2.3 has some improvements, the hook's lowest point is now nearest to the table. A cord will tend to rest there causing minimum torque on the hook-clip.
It is made stronger at the two 90 angles that have to withstand forces. This is a more efficient use of material and builds faster.
A hole under the hook where no material is required for an adequate strength of the hook.

Version 2.3_thin is simply for a thinner tabletop/shelf.

Still in the draft stage but the best extruder I have used yet. Two opposing motors. this give a rock solid grip on the filament.

Next revision will be making a tighter fit on the empty space around the pulley on each side.

You may need to addjust the screw holes for the motor, if they get too tight the filament wraps like crazy (don't ask how I know)

Future will see this design refined and printed on the CupCake, two pieces, the one side will hold a motor including entry /exit for filament and hold the nozzle. The other side will dovetail and slide so the motor pulley can be adjusted for tightness to the other pulley, Im thinking it should have a bolt in the direction of the motion with a wingnut for adjustments. See sketch.

ANYONE please feel free to design that mount, I am not terrible good at setting up parts with accurate screw holes etc. :-)

"Type R" as in BMW motorbikes, two opposed cylinders slightly offset.

The little plastic clips that you run a screw through to hold a mirror on the wall.

Use this to guide your cables with.

This is a bearing race for a thrust bearing. It just needs two M8 washers and 8 x 4.5mm (0.177") ball bearings of the kind normally fired from BB guns. It was designed for the bearings of the RepRap Darwin Z axis, but is a generally useful little widget. Including washers, it occupies approximately the same space as a 608 bearing.

A set of 4 of these bearings has been in constant use for 1 1/2 years with no issues.

This is a gear that can be driven using the 4.5mm beaded belt, or ball chain obtainable from many hardware stores. This is useful for general drive applications, but was originally designed for the Z axis on RepRap Darwins.

This is a design of the RepRap extruder drive that is compatible with the Darwin quickfit clamp system and the Ponoko lasercut kit. It will take either 16mm PTFE or heatsink based heaters. It is designed to be made with no lathing or machine tooling. An opto sensor may or may not be fitted to regulate rotation speed - I found that this was definitely required with an all-metal heater assembly. If you develop software to do that, we'd love to see it!

Back in July Switched.com challenged us to design and make a set of salt and pepper shakers, all in one day! We took care of the design end, and the shakers were made by awesome 3-D printing technology from MakerBot.

We've always wanted to design a set of salt and pepper shakers to match Egg Pants, one of our most successful products. This finally gave us the chance to do it. We bring you Salt and Pepper Hats! We're so happy with how they turned out that we will be taking them one step further and turning them into a product for our line, which should be available by winter 2009.

In the meantime, we're offering up the files for our prototypes - download away and make your very own! Want Egg Pants to go with them? Get a pair here: designglut.bigcartel.com/product/egg-pants

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

This is a notch width test pattern, with notches cut into both sides from 0.100" to 0.150" wide in 0.01" steps. The idea, obviously, is to straddle the 1/8" or 0.125" nominal thickness of the material.

Since 0.01" should be on the same order of magnitude as the kerf (material lost to the laser's cut), I didn't think we needed more precision.

The first of a series of molds to be made with a makerbot to make chocolate polyhedra. Modified to lay down so there are no overhangs during build. Makes an Icosahedron 3 cm from corner to corner.

Say goodbye to SMT component identification misery with this pair of active tweezers that plug right into your trusty multimeter!

As you pick up an SMT component to put it onto the solder paste on a PCB, these tell you what the component is automatically.

Two part hollow. Try this first. Modified to build from back so there are no overhangs.

edit: fixed by hoeken to make it printable.

The renderer might be down.... check out flickr.com/photos/24375810@N06/3605186452/ for some pics.

When my brother came to me with a proposition to make a lens hood for his old Yashica I honestly wasn't sure how well the Makerbot would be able to pull off a task that required such fine detail: I needed something that would twist and lock onto three flanges. After just a few design iterations though, I could see that it was going to work.

For me what was so awesome was that the Makerbot allowed a very natural and intuitive design process/flow. I quickly mocked up a rough design and printed it out. This allowed me to see where problems were going to come up. I thickened it in areas and adjusted some dimensions and printed another. I went through another two iterations to finally come to the perfect design. This all happened within five hours of my brother even suggesting the idea while still having time to watch a full movie and eat dinner.

Definitely one of the most satisfying designs/things I've made especially considering this is something that is very hard to buy these days.
Thank you Makerbot!

This is an omnidirectional wheel. If you know what this is, you know that they're a real pain to find, and expensive when found. They're expensive because it's a niche item, not because it's terribly complicated or hard to produce -- an excellent candidate for home replication.

Unlike commercial omniwheels, this comes with a Futaba-style servo mount already in place -- it's designed to be screwed directly to the servo. If this isn't your style, replace the object named "Servo Collar" in the Blender file with the mount of your choice.

v1.1 Update: Based on input from Simon Kirkby, I've enlarged the centers of the roller wheels and changed the axle mounts, which no longer need drilling.