A 40mm x 40mm x 34mm Planetary gearbox designed to be mounted to a Nema 17 motor. It's gear ratio is 4.444:1 (40:9 for those who dislike decimals).

Version 2

Now supports an M8 bolt for the output by default.

Changing the output size no longer requires reprinting the entire assembly - just print the top half of the planet frame, and the cover.

If you want the M6 version, print m6_output.stl as well.

If you've already printed the M6 version, and want to convert it to M8, print m8_output.stl.

Warning! This is difficult to print. Unlike Jag's design it doesn't have a lot of overhangs, but the gear teeth require a lot of precision.

I was working on a derivative of: thingiverse.com/thing:5830 when I realized I could make a printable linear bearing for it.

This is that bearing. It provides three inner racetracks rolling against the inner axle. The length is adjustable to increase the number of ball bearings in contact with the inner axle. Longer length will be more stable therefore.

To approximate the stability of the reprap based xy rider designs, you'd want at least two of these 35mm or greater in length on each axis.

Fully parametric - I exported samples for axes of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". The included .scad has a lot of sample lines commented out at the end if you want to experiment.

Currently untested - but I believe this is the design that will work.

Please note, there are a couple overhang violations. I believe the bottom of the raceway in the center should be ok with bridging - but might have issues... and the tops of the raceways violate overhang rules like crazy. I put the fill holes there to get rid of the worst offense, so hopefully it'll come out somewhat-usable. I do NOT want to try internal support on those raceways! lol... Plan B is to split this thing into two halves and print it that way.

UPDATE 2/7/11: I fixed some previous axle issues. The raceways were being positioned completely wrong, forgot to divide by two to account for the difference between diameter and radius. Also really tightened up the feed tubes to be just a few mm long.

UPDATE 2/11/11: I tried printing this last night. No dice, the inner raceways are too small. Just read nophead's blog post about polygonal holes (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6118), back to the drawing board!

In the comments from MakerBlock's blog post on the MakerBot blog, tre3 had the idea of making a linear bearing from plastic. Since I really like how my ball bearings turned out using steel BBs, I thought I'd try designing a linear bearing using the same bearings.

The first step was to get the basic BB function working. I designed a "racetrack" so the bearings could make a loop and only contact the bar in a straight line. My original idea was to have three racetracks arranged so that the BBs contacted the bar in an equilateral triangle configuration. This proved very difficult to adjust.

After failing with the three racetracks, I decided to try a flat version with four racetracks. This would be nice and compact in one direction (typically vertically) and be easy to adjust. It would also only require two parts because each part could have two racetracks built-in.

The racetrack is designed so the groove gets larger when the BBs are away from the rod. No reason to constrain them as tightly until they are contacting the rod.

Pictures to come!

This is an update to my Accessible Wade's Extruder.

The idler is now hinged using an M3 screw.
I have also added support for the central part of the 608 idler so that there is no need to use washers to space the bearing away from the plastic.

I have been using this design for a while now and love it.

Changing filament is a simple as compressing the spring then whipping out the old filament and poking the new one in.

UPDATE: 6 Aug 2011 - Add arcol (cory75 thing:10532) and wildseyed hotend mount options. Im not overly happy with the asymmetry of the arcol option.

A busy few hours after my first attempt at a useful OpenSCAD design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9446) and I've totally re-written and refactored the code into a parametric part library. It's still early days, but it already contains the basic building blocks and a bunch of basic parts (segments, nozzles, base plate).

There is also a demo section in the library that will generate a full set of example parts. Or you can un-comment the lines at the bottom to render individual parts and export the STL.

Module Structure
Basic building blocks are defined as chainable modules, taking at least one common parameter - the bore of the hose. Thus alternate hose sizes are trivial to generate (1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, etc).

Global Variables
- tolerance = controls the distance between the ball and socket surfaces
- definition = this defines the number of facets for curved surfaces (sets the $fn parameter)

Parts in the Library
- Hose segment
- Extended hose segment (user defined length of "waist" between ball and socket)
- Round Nozzle (user defined nozzle diameter)
- Base Plate (user defined screw dia, defaults to M3)

Feedback
Any and all comments welcome, it would be great if someone could print off a few segments and let me know if they work!

Updates
22 Jun 2011 - Uploaded v0.2 library, includes reduced wall thickness and increased distance between ball/socket surfaces (based on feedback from bohnded). Also added DoubleSocket module. For comparison, I've added a cross-sectional view of the latest hose segment alongside the loc-line part by charlespax - the ball/socket offset on my model is obviously still a bit tighter than charles', but not sure whether I should increase it further...?

After a long lead up, this is the PolyBot Raspberry Edition. Reduced production cost, increased accuracy.

This thing is a bunch of modifications to the first PolyBot design from 4 months back. I wanted it to be my 100th design, and so it is.

The essential design remains the same, it is a delta robot housed in a tetrahedron frame. I have experimented with many tetrahedron frames over the past few months. The one presented here is based on the vinyl tubing vertices: thingiverse.com/thing:8306

There is heavy usage of zip ties as well. These have proven to be as strong as any other fasteners, and you simply can't beat the ease of use, or price.

It also uses the modified servo mounts, and improved male/female clevis pieces. The way the pieces are designed, there is very little wiggling around, so the arms are fairly rigid in their motions.

I have included all the plastic pieces here in one place for easy download/print.

I have also uploaded a massive collection of photos, and even a rudimentary instruction manual. If you look carefully, you'll notice the Arduino Sketch in the 'code' directory (wiidemo). There is also an 'Alternates' directory which contains various other odds and ends like a different effector base, options for vertices (using ball/socket if you prefer).

I have had my wife build this thing a couple of times now, and it goes together in a couple of hours, once you have your plastic parts printed.

Also of note, there are tighter tolerances on parts this time around. I've used nice steel pins for axles, and brass sleeve bushings in places for 1/4" steel pins to rotate. Nice and smooth! Although everything is pressure fit, and stays in place nicely, I've used some nuts and screws on the servo mounts to make them extra sticky.

Just a lot of little improvements here and there. The instruction manual is actually for a socket/ball joint based frame, but for the most part it will apply to any tetrahedron you choose.

Enough words... On to the files.

UPDATE: Some blog posting to go with it...
williamaadams.wordpress.com/2011/06/14/yazzo-polybot-raspberry-edition-take-one/

Here's a more polished, production-ready update to the domekit 3d-printable geodesic connector system. We refactored the central hub to feature a rounded edge and use less material. The strutcaps are shorter while being more durable, and include an integrated thumbscrew (with captive nut) that locks the strut to the node. This makes the structure easier to assemble, because you're not trying to snap the balls into the sockets — just slide the strut into the shaft and turn the screw.

+ + +

please visit domekit.cc for more details

Was "Analog Sine/Cosine Calculating Machine", but then I found the actual name for this device, which I really like.

It is a thing to hold, enjoy turning the crank, and look at. If you can't find your calculator, and need to know the sine or cosine of an angle real quick, you can dial in the angle and read off of the Scotch Yokes. It also works in reverse.

I plan to paint one up, hang it on my wall, and use it to help explain Trig to my kids. I have built and assembled one.

This was initially going to be a simple design to help me learn Alibre. Simple was lost at some point, I'm afraid. I am thinking about adding a paper feed and pencil holder, so I can plot with it.

I've included a photo of two prototype versions, where I worked out the mechanical details. You can read more about them here, along with notes on why I'm making my own printed screws: swampcastle.blogspot.com/2011/06/sincos-prototypes.html

I also added photos of some now-funny-looking prototypes that helped me get the design to where it is today.

There are various other articles about this project on my blog: swampcastle.blogspot.com/

This is the 5th version of my printable linear rail, I've gotten everything to finally work correctly. This can be used as a drop in replacement for a 3d printer's X or Y axis. It's rail system is designed to connect together to form any needed length.

This machine hopefully will be my entry for the Gada prize.


Update 06/16/2011:
I worked out a few modifications to the shuttle. Now the lower half of the shuttle can be printed as well, this removes:
4x 5/16(8mm) nuts
2x 5/16(8mm) bolts
2x 5/16 washers

-The next to go is going to be replacing the front 5/16(8mm) hardware with all printed parts. I'm trying to pare this down just the motor and the printed parts.

-I also redesigned the Large helical gear to incorporate the 608 bearing embedded inside of it. think this is an advantage of trying to use 2 bearings in the pillow block. The large helical gear is also now held in place by a printed 8mm bolt 40mm long. This removes one additional piece of hardware.

-The shuttle top now has 4 mounting holes, although I'm just securing the motor with 2 at this point.

-I printed 2 new 3-segment rails, redesigned lower half of shuttle to be printed.
-I also added 2 new pics of the x/y gantry system and uploaded all new parts - I should have another video.

Update 04/30/2013
It's been brought to my attention that the rack file was missing from this. I have uploaded both the rack stl and scad file. Enjoy!

Here is a youtube video of it in action:
youtube.com/watch?v=ScJMPw6UPtw

Comments and feedback are welcome.

Update 04/07 : Just upload an fully monted picture and my work file with all the SolidWorks Files.

Hi,
Here is my second version [truly printable] of the 3D printed pinhole box !

On the picture of 3D printed part it's all the test and fail print I do before I have an good one, the final parts are on the front.

The pictures are my first test film, taken with this printed box.


Sorry for the short description, I haven't time for the moment to write an real instruction notice.

Print all the part, bobine two time.
Build your own pinhole or buy one.
I buy mine at stenocamera.fr (use 0.26mm pinhole) but you can easy buid your own, there is a lot of tutorial on the web.
Glue your pinhole on the center of the BotierB part.
Glue some dark fabric on all the part that will be in contact with film, and on the inside of boitierA et boitierB, the top of Bobine et under the Bouchon.
Fix an hexagonal screwdriver head on the bouton part for pull the film.
When it's done you can assemble all piece with ruber band.
(sorry I haven't picture fully assembled, I lend my copy of it for summer before take some...)

You can use this pinhole box with both film or photographic paper
For the expose time you can use this little sofware for conversion : pinhole.cz/en/pinholedesigner/

For the rest your alone, I'll work on a true description with pictures and an real corected english on in september.
I'll upload the design file (SolidWorks) as soon as I can.


If you have some questions do not hesitate to ask.


For commercial use please ask me before.

This is a work in progress for an x-carriage for Mendel.

I used similar PTFE bushings for my build platform with great success so I’m trialling it on an extruder carriage. The PTFE thermal barrier is located with a M6 nut & grub screw.

This is the standard spacing so it should fit huxley without modification.

Also can be used with my x-axis replacement: thingiverse.com/thing:4831

Follow my build log on: strelly3d.blogspot.com

I got featured on Thingiverse! Also, now for sale on Shapeways!

A fairly simple sculpture of DNA, built on a stand so you can use it as a nerdy desk ornament or as a teaching aid. Or as an aspirational goal, if you're anything like me ("I will best you yet, DNA!")

The Makerbot-printed versions are not technically correct, but all told, it's a modestly accurate representation, although the real thing is more dense and complex. And constantly under assault/revision by proteins and nosy scientists. I've included a version of the molecule which roughly corresponds to the common, active form in cells, called "B-DNA".

If you've only ever seen those pictures of DNA that look like a ladder twisted along its virtual axis, welcome to the slightly quirkier reality! If you like this kinda stuff, check out DIYbio.org. If you live on the West Coast and want a Bio-Hackerspace to play in, support "Biocurious" on Kickstarter!

I have put this model on Shapeways for those who might want a premium model in acrylic, glass, steel or plated gold!
shapeways.com/model/134213/dna_sculpture.html

This is the second half of my openscad.org gear sets.

I couldn't get the top and bottom parts of the double helical to union properly, so I ended up offsetting the bottom piece by 0.1mm :( It skeins and prints fine though.

This thing is part of a set:
- spur gears: thingiverse.com/thing:1336

UPDATE: I'm printing some gears and noticed a couple mistakes on the openSCAD script: the variable 'orientation' wasn't doing anything and the value 'extrudeInDiam' was in fact being used as radius. They're both fixed now and I uploaded a new version of the script.

A calling card with working planetary gears. Astound your friends, frustrate your nemisii.

(Update: I've moved the gears slightly to the right, reducing the number of cut parts to assemble.)

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:4244 this is a box that opens when you twist the outer rings in opposite directions. See this video by Labmat: flickr.com/photos/matthewlaberge/5101233486/

Edit I: Design has been modified to increase the clearance between moving parts. I've also centered and oriented the parts in better positions for printing.

Edit II: Design files posted. DXF, STEP and the original CATpart for those with access to Catia. Thanks to everyone for your photos, videos and design feedback!

Edit III: Be sure to check out Jon Hodgins' version: thingiverse.com/thing:5589