http://www.thingiverse.com/phooky/likes Sat, 20 Mar 2010 05:29:57 +0100 FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net) en-us Copyright 2010, Thingiverse.com http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1966
Here's one of my makerbot goals for 20XX, a space shuttle! Based on lofting a 3-view, there is some loss of fidelity. Thanks to @matthew_laberge for the red ABS which makes it look AWESOME.

There are many parts I'd like to improve, but I remember hearing that creations are never finished, they escape. ]]> rplumley Sun, 07 Mar 2010 02:38:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1966 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1978
This free model comes with MeshLab, the open-source stl viewer and editor. I cleaned it up a bunch in Blender, then exported to stl and sliced it up with SkeinFox/Skeinforge. Gcode included below (high-res for printing all the fine details -- 0.25 mm/layer).

I've included the source Blender files and also the Blender render environment I used to make the marble pic. ]]> jmil Mon, 08 Mar 2010 08:05:50 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1978 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570
Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here. ]]> cathalgarvey Wed, 13 Jan 2010 13:14:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1579
MakerBot Feet AttachedThey're height adjustable to make it easy to level your bot and has a slot on the bottom to add a rubber band or washer of some sort to help cushion it and reduce vibrations and noise.

I'm not sure how much quieter it is, so might need thicker O-Rings on the bottoms.

The holes are tricky to get right so that the nuts and bolts fit snuggly, might need editing for your makerbot skeinforge settings.

They attach to the MakerBot by tightly squeezing and pinching onto the side panel so they're pretty easy to take on and off.

Could also design different bottoms to screw into them. I might try making something like the RepRap Anti-Vibration Feet: thingiverse.com/thing:808 ]]> tbuser Wed, 13 Jan 2010 20:02:46 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1579 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1577
Here is proof that high performance composite (powder) 3D printing can provide very real usable parts.

We printed this hammer I designed and finished it using our Resin-X© thermoplsatic resin. As depicted, we have driven over 100 3.5" nails into solid wood for demonstration.

Note that there were hardly any marks on the head, nor were there any chips after all that use.

Yes, it may still be brittle, but it takes a good beating!
]]> staffert Wed, 13 Jan 2010 14:11:02 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1577 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1578
We love phooky's work.

When we saw the card, we needed to make a few for our selves.

Now the guys here never leave to see a customer without a sample card in their pockets. Yes, all the gears turn.

Hope this gives back a little to the community.

**UPDATE**
Had to redo the card back file as it omitted the sun gear, also resubmitted the ring gear as it was corrupted.

]]> staffert Wed, 13 Jan 2010 14:52:29 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1578 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1466
Derivative of Bre's dragon head. I altered the mesh to be flat on the bottom and let the horns be attached to the build platform so they print nice. Also changed the head horns to print without illegal overhangs. ]]> natetrue Sun, 20 Dec 2009 23:10:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1466 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1473
When I switched to using an acrylic build platform, my retainer clips (designed for foamcore) stopped working. I worked with paperclips for a while, and then discovered OpenSCAD.

This is a very simple clip model that can be parameterized with your required dimensions (see the first few lines in the scad file).

In the pictures, you can see two different variations. Both have the same internal dimensions (the Gap parameter), but I varied the Reach and Thickness parameters. They both fit perfectly, but the smaller one prints faster and has less risk of hitting the z-stage. It's what the SCAD file defaults to. ]]> cbiffle Mon, 21 Dec 2009 20:23:18 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1473 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1457
This is a set of three Makerbot-printable objects that can be used for making models of Spanish Revival-style buildings. I'm using these to build an HO (1/87) scale model of a 1920's era Drive-in Public Market (or what we'd call a strip mall.) The main piece is an arched wall section that's 25.5 scale feet high and 20 feet wide (about 90 mm x 70 mm). There's also a smaller piece with the same roofline intended for a tower, and a third piece for a storefront. ]]> bowdidge Sat, 19 Dec 2009 05:41:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1457 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1251
This is a mount for a YAESU FT-857 head unit for the dash board of your car

If you happen to be a HAM , and you have a makerbot/reprap ( i'm sure there is more than one of us) and a FT-857 then you are SET!

This is the working alpha cut , I have some more mods to do
]]> zignig Sun, 08 Nov 2009 12:04:08 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1251 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1218
Thom Yorke (big)Original point cloud data from Aaron Koblin´s House of Cards (GeoVideo´s 3D scanning system)
code.google.com/creative/radiohead/

Meshed with Point Cloud Skinner script for Blender
blenderartists.org/forum/showthread.php?t=144504

Cleanup in Meshlab
meshlab.sourceforge.net/

.. and voila! :)

Update: See the video at vimeo.com/7489094 ]]> serratiago Mon, 02 Nov 2009 01:00:17 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1218 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1214
For those whole like to ban things, this is a printed speldge hammer with the word BAN reversed out of the face.
Post about it on my blog: eagleapex.com/2009/11/01/ban-hammer-3d-printed/
Made at hive76.org ]]> eagleapex Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:26:21 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1214 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1165
Whale's teeth are highly prized in the Pacific Rim, particularly by whales who like to use them to munch lunch. Islanders incorporate them into items of ritual significance, generally obtaining them these days from expired whales washed up on the beach.

Credit: Bronwyn Holloway-Smith (http://bronwyn.co.nz) and Vik Olliver CC-BY-SA ]]> vik Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:15:08 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1165 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:955
This extruder is a derivative of Zach's plastruder and I'm really excited to share it. The main difference is that exchanged the idler wheel with a Delrin plunger. This reduces the overall size of the extruder uses two fewer layers.

Using a plunger allows the force exerted on the filament perpendicular to its direction of travel to be adjusted while the extuder is running. I mounted the electronics along the side, so I can view the teeth on the filament on the way to the thermal barrier and adjust the force to get the tooth depth I like.

With this design, changing the filament takes approximately ten seconds from when the barrel becomes hot enough. The motor can be removed with out disassembling the housing.

There is, however, a flaw in this particular design. The captive nut holding the plunger screw will crack the acrylic if you tighten things too much. In the next version I will have this fixed. This design is also based on a larger diameter timing pulley, so the filament guide is a little off.

See it in action youtube.com/watch?v=HMjVrmLJvIU

Subversion svn.makerbot.com/users/charles/paxtruder/ ]]> charlespax Mon, 05 Oct 2009 01:54:57 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:955 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1050
A Makerbot branded business card displayer. ]]> Starno Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:22:20 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1050 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046
IMG_4416Better Living with MakerBot, Episode 2
You probably all know this situation:
You're supposed to ref a soccer game in less than 1/2 an hour and you cannot find your whistle. You're screwed!

But from now on you're out of trouble: Fire up your trusty MakerBot and print a new whistle in 26 minutes!

This object prints the pea right inside the whistle. Since the pea is connected to the rest of the object only at one tiny point, it's quite easy to break it loose after printing with a small screw driver or tweezers.

I probably pushing luck a little bit with bridging the top layer. So far I printed the whistle twice without problems.

As always, I added the object as .obj file (wavefront), which can be imported into AOI and Blender.

The gcode file is the one I used to print the whistle on the image. The gcode file contains an experimental raft with additional "blobs" on the second (interface) layer.
You might want to generate your own gcode file with skeinforge settings, tested with your MakerBot. Be sure to setup Skeinforge to create an (almost) watertight object, since the whistle won't whistle if it's full of holes...

[Update]
I added a second version of the whistle. "Whistle_v2" is an attempt to fine tune the object a little bit. My brother (he's a pipe organ builder) gave me some tips how to optimize the whistles mouth. Whistle v2 should start whistle with less airflow than v1 and thus be (somewhat) less loud. I also downsized the pea a little bit and changed the shape of the lanyard loop.

Whistle v1 is still available for reference and also since it's more "tested"...

Since you blow the whistle with your mouth, be aware of possible problems concerning "food safety" of printed plastic. See the blog post "For foodies out there" ( blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/13/for-foodies-out-there/ ) for more information. ]]> Zaggo Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:24:03 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:995
IMG_4304This is a small piece to mount a neon lamp.
It's a replacement for the original mounting clamps which were way to weak to hold the lamp.

Just for fun, I also produced a little documentation movie for this: "Better Living with MakerBot"
See: youtube.com/watch?v=LBzyZSVK_Gs

Although the size of the clamp is probably very specific to the lamp I mounted, it should be quite simple to adjust the object for your needs. I included the model as OBJ-File (Wavefront), which can be opened with Blender and AOI. ]]> Zaggo Fri, 11 Sep 2009 15:00:45 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:995 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:942
Lasercut snapping parts - Design failurethis is an evolutionary thing-thread that aims to explore snapping connectors that can be made with the 2D capabilities of a laser cutter. I don't delete the designs that did not work out because they show what does not work. ]]> wizard23 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:17:11 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:942 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:938
Had some small pieces of fluorescent acrylic sitting around...decided to turn it into a sweet looking XY platform. Just need to rig up some lights now... ]]> MakerGear Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:05:48 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:938 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:920
This is the final episode of a three-part mini-series on making things with low-melting-temperature-alloy. The collection of things here form a hot material transfer system that can be used to extrude (sort of) molten metal or wax. This is inspired by earlier work done by Dr. Sells and Prof. Bowyer reprap.org/bin/view/Main/AutomaticDepositionOfMoltenAlloyIntoACastingChannelToCreateAVerySimpleElectro-mechanicalComponent .

As usual, remember that low-melt alloys are toxic and hot enough to cause burns and fires, so only use this material if you are experienced in a lab environment. On the plus side, this system can also be used to make things out of wax, which is much safer to use, although you still have to watch out for burns and fires! Possible uses for a wax-handling system include: 1) automated wax casting; 2) use of wax as a support material.

If you omit the heaters, you can probably use the nozzle and syringe pump to deposit slurries or liquids.

The idea of operation is that a standard RepRap prints a layer of plastic (HDPE, ABS, etc). Then the toolheads are switched, and the metal/wax toolhead deposits molten material in the channels or cavities formed by the plastic. If necessary, the process can be repeated for constructing thicker and more complex parts.

We have had good success using the nozzle as a hand-held tool for transferring metal. For example, we used it to make this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:802 .

We have had somewhat less success using it when mounted to a RepRap, as seen in the pictures. The main problem is poor control of flow-rate (see photo of pattern on hot plate). With some modification (such as a smaller nozzle hole diameter) and tuning of parameters (feed rate, height of nozzle above plate, etc) it might work much better. We RepRapped a simple test piece, manually filled it with metal while it was still on the hotplate, then let it cool (see photo of widget with 25-cent piece). This yielded fairly good results, indicating that an automated system may be able to produce usable parts.

The main components of the system are

1) Heated cup - this is a heated reservoir that contains the molten work material.

2) Heated copper nozzle - the nozzle slurps up material from the cup, then moves to a desired location and deposits the material.

3) Syringe pump - a motor-driven syringe controls air flow in and out of the nozzle, which in turn causes the nozzle to slurp or deposit material.

4) Heated plate - this keeps the work hot to improve the flow of the heated material. It also melts the base of the deposited part, creating a good seal between part and plate, so that molten material does not leak under the part. In general, the heated plate seems to help avoid warping, but the downside is that the bottom of the part starts to ooze outwards after a while. ]]> mattmoses Sat, 22 Aug 2009 05:05:23 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:920 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:926
printed_z-guide1It's never a bad idea to have spare parts for your MakerBot lying around.

I have an old batch 2 MakerBot with outdated z-guides which make removing the z-stage really difficult. Luckily the new version of the z-guide is super easy to print out.

Also interesting is the x-rod bracket. Upgrading to the newer, skinnier rods is a little easier now and you need four less lasercut parts.

Yay. Hardware upgrades over the internet!

If you want to make any of your own parts the dxf's are all online (or in the repository svn.makerbot.com/). ]]> langfordw Sun, 23 Aug 2009 06:55:28 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:926 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:918
No Universe can go without the King of Polygon! Phooky beat me by uploading a printable Utah but useless for teadrinking. Took me a few hours of modeling to get a teaproof Utah, proper solid model, no holes, manifold. Wall thickness is ±3 mm and I added a rim for the lid to rest on. The model is based on the 3ds primitive since I was never able to import the original data (thanks Phooky for explaining). So fire up your machine and print an analog Utah! ]]> unfold Thu, 20 Aug 2009 18:04:53 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:918 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:916
meI was once a tall large man. Then I was scanned and I have been trapped inside an STL file for A LONG TIME. Thankfully, Martin Bauer let me out of this file and he has given me his name and I look like him, but I am small.

I can live in your house too, that is the beauty of being converted into an STL file, if you have a 3D printer like the MakerBot, then you can give me a whole extra life. It is like when you hit that secret box in Mario Bros and get all the free lives you want.

Please, print me out on your 3D printer, take pictures of me, make me clothes... really, it can be cold being this small with the whole surface area to volume issue.

Also, if you print me out furniture, that would be nice. I would use it.



]]> martin Thu, 20 Aug 2009 00:45:52 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:916 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:815
Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/
]]> KevinH Tue, 21 Jul 2009 19:40:39 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:815 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911
This is a simple two part compass for drawing circles, measuring, and navigating the open seas old timey pirate style.

Parts:
- 2 copies of the compass half
- 2 thumscrews
- 2 washers, 1 wingnut and bolt ]]> aylr Mon, 17 Aug 2009 15:44:18 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:907
I was inspired by zignig's Printable Desk Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:683 . I used hex nuts instead of square nuts because hex nuts are more common. All the parts are easily available at hardware stores and hobby shops. The total cost is about $4.50 for this clamp compared to $50 ones. It is used for holding circuit boards at comfortable angles, hobby modeling, and holding stuff. Enjoy.


The picture of all parts does not show two nuts that I had already hammered in but I did not want to take them out. Also it does not show 20mm brass tubing as I already hammered some of them in.
]]> vietor Sun, 16 Aug 2009 19:58:52 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:907 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:906
Glow stick brackets to connect glowsticks with 6mm diameter. ]]> wizard23 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 03:13:59 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:906 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:909
I wanted a teacup shape to match the Utah Teapot, largely because my coffee clatch liked the teapot so much.

I tried to make the Utah Teacup share some design resonance with the Utah Teapot: the handle looks a bit like the Utah Teapot's handle, and the curve of the cup mimics the curve of the sides.

At the scale stored in the file, this cup is useless for beverages, but at twice this size it'd be decent for shots, and scaled up to barely fit in the build area it might make a passable mug, although I have my doubts about really piping-hot tea...

Note: Unlike the Utah Teapot, the Utah Teacup was designed with 3D printing in mind from the beginning, and is fully manifold. Because none of the things that are non-manifold about the Utah Teapot break Skeinforge, this is a more or less academic distinction, but it does give you fewer warnings. ]]> MaskedRetriever Sun, 16 Aug 2009 19:24:35 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:909 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:820
This is an update to the coffee mug. It is a simple mesh, but still may be unprintable. Until I get a 3D printer to test it out, I cannot say one way or another. My suspicion is that the angles on the handle are not steep enough for the plastic to stick. ]]> jestin Sun, 26 Jul 2009 00:29:59 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:820 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:888
Club Mate Name Tags!They are really useful to distinguish your mate in the Metalab Leiwandville.soup.io/ at HAR2009 ]]> wizard23 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 20:34:18 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:888