(Sorry for don't write in english. I'll try translate it soon)

Puño americano amistoso (sé que aquí no están bien vistas las armas) con incrustación de 54 cristales de Swarovski.

The Internet is a fascinating place, providing the creative, industrious and entrepreneurial with an equal and open platform from which to be heard.

Our elected Representatives have been misled to believe that the needs of a few increasingly irrelevant corporate entities outweigh all the great things a free and open Internet has brought to the world.

Join us in reminding our congressional delegations that by altering the rules to protect the few, they will close the door on so many infinite possibilities the future may have held.

The rule of thumb is that a letter is 100X the value of a phone call. If a 2D action gets a 100X multiplier, then a 3D action could get 1000X the multiplier.

Please print this coin, and mail it to your Senator and Congressman contactingthecongress.org/

High table with double surface, made of methacrylate by laser cutter.

We didn't had a funnel so I just designed one.

A friend asked if I could help him with a Christmas gift for a friend by making some kind of bank on my MakerBot. Well I really liked Sublime's Skull Bowl[1], and it seemed like the perfect thing to make a cool looking bank out of. My friend said it would be OK if the bank didn't open, but what fun would that be?

So I used the Skull Bowl model, and used Syvwlch's great screw library[2] to put a screw in plug in the base of the model to get coins out of, with a little tab on it to make it possible to turn. Intersecting the screw with the skull took OpenSCAD some time, but it looks great when closed. The slot for putting coins in is in the back of the skull on the top piece.

The zip file contains everything you need to mod. The Skull has been resized a few times, so the dimensions don't match the original. Since I'm not sure what the scale factor is (from memory, 60%?), I've included my copies. They probably aren't the latest version, since I see it's been updated. The three OpenSCAD files are in there for making adjustments.

Included in the pictures to the side are a cut down version of the screw section so that I could test it without having to print the entire skull, and the first version of the lid where I put the wrong slot length in so quarter's wouldn't fit.

Warning: I couldn't get the lid to fit flush. When I view it in OpenSCAD it's fine, but no matter how many times I flipped the lid along the Y axis the first layer always seemed to print in the same direction. I have four copies of the lid. I hope you have better luck than I did.

[1] thingiverse.com/thing:8991
[2] thingiverse.com/thing:8793

This is a War of the Worlds playset, when cut it renders 3 "walkers" and 8 tanks. The tanks are approximations of the WW1 british MK1 tank. The file is designed for 1/8" service board, which actually measures to 2.9mm to get a tight fit, scale the model as needed to fit your material. At the current size both the walkers and tanks are scaled to about 1/200.

I really like the design of this YAFSH, but the bottom parts is too big to printing on ABP. So I make bottom parts as two pieces. The bottom part B can also directly snap to the top part and make holder shorter.

Two gliders in Conway's Game Of Life.
The gliders collide and form a stable loaf shape.
The collision is rendered in stl 3D solid form by
the python script of the ancestor, then OpenSCAD.

Keyboard foot for Logitech EX110 wireless keyboard. Altered original scad to add latching pegs so foot does not move.

I designed this variation for the low-cost Harbor Freight model#623 dial indicator. harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html this gauge has a rounded ball on the end that glides right over the Kapton tape build surface.

This really speeds up the platform leveling, and I was able to do the whole job in about 5 minutes. I also found that the adjustment changes significantly when the HBP is at 110C vs room temperature.

This is designed particularly for city-dwelling ladies (or adventurous men). It slips over the tip of the heel to protect it en route to your final destination. You can apparently buy these for $10 from a number of places. Take that Big High-Heel Protector!

They're designed for heels with a roughly .45" square tip (the test pair they were designed for - I don't really know what other sizes are out there).

Now updated to be slightly rounded on the rear/side edges, to decrease scuffing.

This is a DIY art. This was one of the first project I printed on my 3D-Printer. Just a really cool thing to have. :)

This is how it looks live: youtube.com/watch?v=G-c5_IVQEhE

Some time ago, a friend of mine asked me to make her a pair of mind-controlled cat ears, and I said, "Oh sure! I can do that."

In my defense, I'd had a bit to drink that night, and didn't think she was serious.

She was.

(Oh, dear.)

On sober reflection, I became curious about whether I could do it. All the pieces seemed to be present:

* The Neurosky headset had just been featured in Make Magazine.

* The arduino microcontroller makes doing simple robotics like this relatively easy.

* The Makerbot and reprap printers make it possible to iteratively design custom hardware, which was going to be really important.

So instead of completely and utterly insane, the idea turned out to be merely odd. But doable.

Anyway, if you've ever woken up and said to yourself, "I'd like to strap a pair of robotic cat ears to my head, and interface them with my brainwaves," your wish has now come true.

Prototype 1

The first prototype is complete. It's imperfect, a bit fiddly, and bulky, but it held up long enough for us to put it on and walk around downtown Boston with it.

Here's a video of the first prototype in action. It showcases the ears drooping, standing upright, and wiggling at different levels of mental activity:

vimeo.com/32018607

Who should make this?

Let's be honest, this is a lot of work to do in order to make some kitty ears. The purpose of this thing was to learn how to do it and have fun. And I'm releasing it here because I'm curious what else people could make based on it.

Make Something Different

I'm very interested to see what can be made with this toolkit beyond cat ears.

The servo mounts can be used to attach motors to the MindWave headset, which was a bit of a tricky mechanical problem. Now that that's solved, what else could you do? Some suggestions for things you could make to mount on your head:

* other ears, like dog or rabbit ears
* antennae
* spikes
* fricking laser beams

It's hard to make derivatives of .STL files, so I'll be uploading the Solidworks files for people to tinker with, as soon as I have a chance to clean them up a bit.

Special Thanks

Many people helped me bring this project to completion. Some tried (vainly) to maintain my sanity. Others helped by listening to me rant like a madman (and didn't back away quickly enough). Some others contributed directly, and I'd like to thank them here.

Miriam Byroade designed and sewed the fabric for the ears and the holster holding the electronics.

Jeff Cutler contributed significantly to the arduino code, and is single-handedly responsible for the MoveToPosition(); function.

Amber Ying dared me to make the ears, modeled them, and has patiently tested three versions of them, all the while waiting for a working set.

Thanks again to all of you, and to the others I haven't mentioned. I promise to bother you more as I work on the next prototype.

This is a replacement visor clip, specifically for a 2003 Dodge Neon, however, it may do for other Years/Makes/Models with minor adjustments. Shown in the images are the broken clip sitting on a table and the printed replacement installed.

The broken clip image shows the result of a few rough pulls on the original, the hook is sheared off. To compensate for this, I've split the replacement in half so the "fibers" of extruded plastic can better resist the pulling force of a moving visor.

This shield allows you to connect a HP C6602 inkjet cartridge to your Arduino turning it into a 96dpi print platform. It only uses 5 pins which can be jumper selected to avoid other shields. It is designed with a Arduino Mega footprint but fully supports both the Arduino and the Arduino Mega. It uses all through-hole components to make assembly easy even for beginners.

Features
Compatible with Arduino and Arduino Mega
Uses only 5 user selectable pins
Stackable (up to 11 Inkshields on Ardunio, 15 on Mega)
On-board 20V boost converter for inkjet head
Accepts 9-12V input via optional power connector or from the Arduino Vin
Auxiliary input header offers support for other microcontrollers
Auxiliary output header supports an extension cable to the inkjet head
Power and Pulse activity LEDs
ISCP header and Reset button
All through-hole components

This will be the first official release location. For the most current information visit:
nicholasclewis.com/inkshield/
github.com/NicholasCLewis/InkShield

A production run of this project was successfully funded via a Kickstarter here: kck.st/oAGeza

Description of files:
InkShieldLibrary.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (You should download the *NEW* version)
InkShieldLibraryNEW.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (updated version - found a few bugs when finishing the Mega version)
InkShieldMegaLibrary.zip - Arduino Mega Libraries/Examples
InkShieldLiteLibrary.zip - Minimal Arduino Libraries/Examples
InkShieldPCB.zip - Kicad Schematic and PCB Layout

These are 3 different machanical animals. They are all pretty basic mechanical devices that turn rotary motion into more of a linear motion. My kids (and their friends) have gotten a real kick out of them. I drew them all in sketchup.

Jumping Prairie Dog Turn the crank and make the prairie dog jump up and down.

Diving Dolphin Turn the crank and watch the dolphin dive through the waves.

Wood Pecker Turn the crank and see the wood pecker peck away. (This was originally posted as a pecking bird, but my kids all call it the woodpecker, so I'm putting it up as part of this collection).

NEW VIDEO! youtube.com/watch?v=gCGmpHHC0Ag

It's a 3D printed clock! WOOT!

It consists of 12 number plates, 2 gears, and 1 mount.

All units are inches.

In the zip folder are two versions of the main drive gear and clock base (10" gear). The gear I sectioned into four pieces (print two of each) and a version of the drive gear that does not need supports.

This should main clock base should fit on most hobby printers. I made everything so that it requires no support and fits within a 4x4" box.

I needed a new profile image. While I'm proud of the project that lead to my former "TV face" image, it didn't really say "Thingiverse"

Having just successfully created a 3 color bottle opener, I knew the time for a multi-color portrait had come.

This is my first attempt at mashing colors together on the same layer like this. I'm really happy with the results. Hopefully others will take this technique and run with it. Turns out you don't need dual extruders to make a multi-colored part!

tv-face: brettbeauregard.com/blog/tag/hdtv-mount/
3 color opener: brettbeauregard.com/blog/2011/09/three-color-3d-print/

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

I saw a ceramic version of this somewhere a while ago. This is based on what I remember of that design.

This uses thingiverse.com/thing:8793 (syvwlch's awesome trapezoidal thread library)

Chess is awesome. Lasers are awesome. It follows that laser chess is even more awesome.

There are many versions of laser chess, this one is inspired by Khet 2.0.

I plan to make an entirely laser cut version using refraction and internal reflection in the near future.

A black ABS plastic die made on a makerbot.

This is a Reprap 32bit control board based upon AVR32 (AT32UC3B0256) CPU.
It is a functional replacement for the Gen4 Aruduino mega and it's motherboard. The code has been ported to AVR32 GCC from Makerbot G3 branch (the V2 code),

Status: As of OCT 8th, 2011
The atmel CDC driver for USB is now running on the hardware with terminal emulators. The next step is to port it into tha main REPRAP32 application. I will probably try a USB branch on the main git repository. I have not yet published a branch and need to learn how to do it correctly.

I have some bare stepstick PCBs in hand now. So I can build a full stepstick based prusia with USB reprap32 for my daughter at college.

I checked the loading of the 64us stepper timer interrupt to see how much cpu time the steppers are using. I found 22% nominal and 36% worst case. This leaves 53 DMips of cpu still available.


I was able to drive the Gen3 stepper drivers on my Prusa with no issues. Just a cable slide from 10 pin to 6 pin IDC. I did not even change any settings in ReplicatorG!!! it just works.

Most of my issues were related to pin assignments and not having end stops
Properly terminated. They are now disconnected in the software build.


check out sites.google.com/site/reprap32

This is a simple experimental jig for winding a 1.5 inch diameter internal grid in a Farnsworth Fusor, a small hobby nuclear fusion device that uses a technique called Inertial Electrostatic Confinement (hence, IEC fusion). This Thing is just for creating the central electrode in the machine. For much more in-depth information about fusors, you will find a community of Fusioneers at fusor.net

The internal grid needs to be reasonably spherical, and I found it hard to reliably get that shape without it looking sad. At first I tried winding the electrode using a golf ball, but once it's formed, you can't get the ball out!

This jig solved the problem by having 16 pieces that nest together with an internal track into which the wire is laid, and outer pieces that provide the guide walls to keep the wire in place as it's being wound.

Stainless steel wire can be used, but it's sometimes hard to work with, and it has a lower melting point than tantalum. Tantalum is also very ductile and easy to wind.

The jig is designed to form a sphere made of three circles by weaving two wires.

Note that the two pieces in each print are not the same; one is designed to sit inside the other, so its screw holes are offset. I thickened it along its vertices so it won't nest inside the other, to prevent some confusion.

The Saleae Logic (http://www.saleae.com/logic/) is a wonderful little thing, but the test clips come in a ziplock plastic bag, and I wanted something a bit nicer and sturdier, so I made this!

It assumes 3mm thick perspex.

This magnet toy is great for exploring geometric shapes and the awesome power of MAGNETS. It is inspired by natural geometry and buckyballs, which are way too much fun. Unless you eat them. DO NOT EAT THE MAGNETS.

I got this idea when Daniel Spangler, one of our Make Labs interns, finished building a DIY trebuchet kit at 10PM and wanted to launch stuff with it. He taped LEDs and a coin cell battery onto a tennis ball so that we could see where it would fly in the dark.

I thought it looked just a bit janky, so I came up with the idea of encasing the LEDs and battery into a transparent plastic ball. I modeled it in AutoCAD, printed it on our Thing-O-Matic 3D printer, inserted the LED and battery, and behold: a glowing LED ball thing.

I'm quite pleased by how it came out for a first attempt. The light is definitely more saturated on the top where the LED is pointed at, but the PLA plastic that the ball is made out of defuses it nicely.

The ball is a solid and will take about 1.5 hours to print.

Native DWG file included for anyone to edit.

My kids love the octopus, and kept asking for a starfish. This did the trick! I drew this in sketchup freehand. It took quite some time to get the surface right. Looks very topographic once printed. A great flat bottomed animal for the Makerbot. Perhaps a flounder is next up :)

Update: This prints really well if you scale it up as well, I've printed it so that it just fits on the build platform, takes a bit longer, but comes out great. Sort of neat that the ends of the feet tend to curl up a little due to the heating/cooling of the plastic.

Was very odd but overnight these things crawled up on a few rocks I'd left on the table...

Update 10/15/2011: if your original needs a companion, check out Squiggly version.

To take pictures of the night sky you need to shoot long exposures in order to grab as much light as possible. The problem is that, because of the rotation of the earth, the stars are constantly moving in the sky. This mechanism allows you to cancel the apparent movement of stars while taking long exposures of the night sky.

The way this version has been designed, you need to turn the threaded rod once every minute. Using a 50mm lens, the stars movement will start to be visible on your picture after 20 to 30 seconds. I recommend turning the handle once every 15 seconds.

I uploaded a pictures of all the FAIL parts I printed for this project. I love development by prototyping!

I'm not proud of the design of this. It's rather ugly. But I thought I'd still upload it to see if it could inspire someone else to make a nicer version. I hope maybe someone find the simplicity of it quite cute.

It's a common design of a 4 servo biped walker. It can be controlled with an RF remote, an Arduino, an MSP430 Launchpad or similar. It walks, dances... well moves around.

I've posted a video here:

lars.roland.bz/2011/09/08/3d-printed-simple-biped-with-4-servos/

I haven't included an upper body yet. I'm just using a Lego plate on the video, but I'm planning to build a proper body for it. I thought I might add some arms and some mini-servos to control those also...