Allow you to use your 4pi board on a Single Sheat Frame Prusa I3.

Mount screws into the ramps holes.

New version, fixed issues with:
Hex nut holes.
USB cutout.

My copy of the single frame dxf was appearntly old when I CNC'd it and the Y-Corners that where in the repo where not tall enough to clear the bottom of the frame so i made these.

Traditional fork style end stop wasn't good enough for me - too large and did not fit in my design. Minimalistic enstop was born to solve the problem, and it worked!

A very simple endstop holder with a clamp to attach it to an M8 smooth bar. I am using it in my Prusa i3

More information in spanish:

iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Objetos_3D

Compact endstop holder that should fit mechanical endstops with 2.5mm mounting holes spaced 9mm apart.

A 90 degree mount for putting RAMBO on a Prusa i3. The RAMBO mounting holes fit great, but I never got around to putting in the right holes for the arduino side. Mine is just drilled to match the holes on the frame.

No more trouble with the washers when attaching the y-axis carriage to the Prusa3 frame.

I thought up this cube that would help me calibrate my feeds and flowrates so bridges come out properly. It's not terribly complicated, just a 25mm cube with a 8.333mm square cut blown through each side.

Many of us have been frustrated to discover that the pins for emmett's Screwless Heart Gears are not PLA compatible. They are too stiff, and in my experience, attempting to force them in can crack the pins and damage the piece itself.

So I set about trying to design some alternative pins for PLA. My first attempt was to make flexible end tabs, but while this worked, the gear heart axle is too short to support this approach. In the next attempt, I altered the internal structure of the tip of the pin to make it more flexible for PLA and redesigned the protrusions.

These new pins were designed using an ACIS solid in Shark FX (sfx file included) so will behave well with Makerware, ReplicatorG and skeinforge. They snap into place with moderate force and rotate freely.

UPDATE

Version 2 of the pins has 0.25 mm more protrusion on each side at the tip, they still insert with moderate force but have a firmer hold.

A larger knob for the Ulticontroller which can be operated with one finger.

Modelled from scratch in OpenSCAD; this thing was inspired by “ulticontroller speed dial knob” thingiverse.com/thing:27836.

Differences:

larger dial
anti-slip-dents on the side
includes OpenSCAD-sources
connection hole has inlay to prevent slipping
“softer” edges

just another oversized ulticontoller knob

Bertho's extruder (Thing 26094) is a great improvement for the ultimaker which requires a pretty solid spring.

The one I got happened to have a diameter of a little over a centimetre, and when you place this around a 3M bolt it can easily move off centre.

This 'end cap' is designed to thread over the 3M bolt and surround the end of the spring to keep it centred.

Simple parametric script incase anyone wants to fiddle to fit a different sized spring.

These are to reduce the noise by replacing one of the wood mounting plates with a better sound absorbtion material. These are designs for printing in soft PLA or as use for templates for other material.

this is a WIP
i want to have a extruder wheel that slightly gives a bit..
When thers a Pressure being built up the cogwheel can jump some tooth and release that.

less stress on the filament when retracting very fast and often.
maybe its good for difficult materials aswell.
i think of soft materials..

different variants provided

A strengthened version of Antiklesys' feeder improvement. A must for retraction.

Ball bearing & spring loaded pressure plate for uniform feed regardless of filament thickness

This gadget clips onto the Bowden cable retainer on the top of the Ultimaker extruder. It makes retractions work considerably better (discussed here: groups.google.com/group/ultimaker/browse_thread/thread/7537389e8085beaf#)

This is a different take on the remarkably effective and simple Quick Connect Shim (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22851). I found my shim would fall out from time to time, so I made this one which has multiple thicknesses, and (I think) clips on slightly better. It's also easier to remove, and slightly harder to lose ;-)

This setup is currently printing at 20 micron layers ;p

This is Mk2 redesigned Ultimaker extruder. It employs a MakerBot Mk6 drive gear over the 2nd gen bolt from Ultimaker.

NEW Video youtube.com/watch?v=AVYZFMKugZU

youtube.com/watch?v=b9pbe6IZs0Y
youtu.be/U3Rnok5LT00 &

youtube.com/watch?v=kgwDqOj5i4E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Now works with Bowden Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:17027

Preventing filament movement sideways.

Less Filament deformation.

i made this grooved Ring for the new feeder upgrade from Ultimaker.

Replaces the delrin ring.
Test at your own Risk.

A handy upgrade tool for your Ultimaker extruder gearwheel.
This handy grip makes it easy to extrude by hand when changing your filament, or if you want to do some pre-extrusion just before starting a print.

Hope you like it!
Elwin
& designshop
en-designshop.com

This is a fully printable feeder upgrade for the Ultimaker. It improves by far the feed of the filament by reducing a the friction generated by the stock parts.

Please contribute to my UNOFFICIAL "Ultimaker XL" project on Indiegogo.com:

indiegogo.com/ultimaker-xl/

Thank you! :)

This is a double helical (aka. herringbone) gear set for the default Ultimaker filament feeder.

I don't own an Ultimaker yet, but saw many YT videos, and I noticed that the gears on the feeder mechanism are working relatively loudly.

This is because of they straight teeth. Helical gears are invented to ensure permanent contact between gears, as they roll on each other, just like they were wheels. If I have not made any serious mistake, this set will be operating much softer. Awaiting feedbacks on this too. :)

There already are some similar modifications, but none of them are correct from a mechanical point of view: teeth should be bent properly, especially on the smaller gear, to maintain proper connection between the gears.

Dimensions are from "official" lasercut PDF, so everything should be fine.

There are two versions attached of the bigger gear: one with a knob socket, where you can insert a knob for easier manual feeding, and another standard version without any hole for the knob.

Of course, the "knobbed" version can be used without the knob attached as well, thanks to the lego connector like design.

I also rendered some additional images (orange ones), where you can examine the models.


And here comes the important part:

If someone, who can give proper feedbacks (with an engineer's eye) about the possible weaknesses or faults, would print and test it, I would be grateful for him/her.

Theoretically, although the small gear has a slot for fastening purpose, it can't fall off from the feeder motor's axle, because of the double helical toothing.

If tests confirm, that fastening is unnecessary, I will modify the model.

Any further suggestions are welcomed. Write your remarks and experiences, so I can improve the set.

Please contribute to my UNOFFICIAL "Ultimaker XL" project on Indiegogo.com:

indiegogo.com/ultimaker-xl/

Thank you! :)

According to catohagen's request, I made a straight toothed version of my previous double helical feeder gear mod: thingiverse.com/thing:40334
(Also the knob can be found there too.)

Simple ip camera mount for the Ultimaker.
Uses a $50 ip camera from ebay.
Perfect to be able to have an eye on the 3d print while away from the machine.

A bracelet for everyone who likes it...!

Print and give away as a present!


see also facebook.com/europerminutedesign

A classic lego-like brick with knobs on every side.

Inspired by ffff.at Free Universal Construction Kit,
fffff.at/free-universal-construction-kit/

and the fact that Lego's brick patent is over.
boingboing.net/2011/10/21/expired-patent-of-the-day-lego.html

Detailed dimensions and proportions of a classic Lego brick can be found here:
robertcailliau.eu/Lego/Dimensions/zMeasurements-en.xhtml


enjoy / make / share

This thing is derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:1528 and thingiverse.com/thing:12278

For those who would like to dine with Doctor Who.

Camera mount for all your iphone camera mounting needs!

Universal iPhone camera mount for attaching your iPhone to anything you want to film! Designed for filming timelapse videos of 3d prints or anything you want! Adjustable arms to allow you to film from a number of angles, should attach to most printers or just about anything, here's an example using the camera mount printing thing:12105:

youtube.com/watch?v=nVrfkTOeyTc

I wanted to create a vase of my own. I like the twisted vases but I wanted to make something special. So I came up with the idea to make a double twisted vase. There are two the same parts, both twisted 90 degrees. The one twisted left, the other right. Then the file was uploaded to Netfabb to get rid of all the faults. And because of this the inside turned out to be just as special as the outside!

Created by Toussaint Jongen
thingiverse.com/Arteron

A replacement knob for the UltiController. It's larger then the default one for more hardcore printing action.

Useful if you broke the origonal knob, or never got one. (If you broke into the Ultimaker HQ, and stole UltiController electronics, for example)