Zip Tie Ancher for 20mm extrusion.

for 8020 15 S but adjustable.

This is a version my Lm8uu Y Carriage adapted for the Mendelmax.

RAMPS mounting bracket with 80mm fan cover for Mendelmax

Knowing I could never keep pace with one thing everyday, I set a personal goal of a thing every week. My theme is natural shapes using math in OpenSCAD.

I started out simple creating something using my 2D Graphing library: thingiverse.com/thing:11243

This is supposed to look like a droplet of water hitting water, and the waves coming out from it.

Nikola Tesla's "Valvular Conduit" for your printing pleasure.

This should be a reasonably accurate model of the Raspberry Pi board, except for the SD slot which is definitely estimated! Give it a wide berth and you should be fine though...

An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

Thanks for checking out my thing. This thing is a frosting extruder much like the kind you would see a baker using to frost their goodies. I thought of making this for the New Museum Design Challenge after looking at the things I enjoy doing and thinking of ways I could improve it with the power of 3D Printing.

Usually when I go to add icing to muffins or frosting to a cake I take a common zip lock bag and put my icing or frosting into it and cut the corner off. sometimes this works and sometimes it's pretty messy. I know frosting bags and tips are fairly easy to come by at kitchen stores but I felt that a truly customizable tool would be what I would want to use to really give my treats a personalized touch.

With that in mind I set out to design an easy to use kit that used almost no extra parts beyond what the Thing-O-Matic 3D printer could produce. Alongside the basic kit of parts I've created a wide array of nozzles to be used, Round tips, square, rectangle, slotted, and star tips. I know there are a massive number of tip designs and I hope to be able to update the files here with addition kits of parts as I have time to produce them. Additional to the common place frosting nozzles in the market today the abilities of 3D printing technology can really push the envelope on what's possible in nozzle design. Not being held to the limitations of sheet metal pressing and injection molding users can create a vast array of new shapes to really give that unique look they strive for. 3D printing also allows for less waste, users can print out only the parts they want and save money and maybe the environment.

I've included a zip folder with the SolidWorks (boo =( I'm sorry it's not open it's what I had access to) files so that users can add their own nozzle designs. Also included are zip files with STL files, and IGES Files.

Since I Don't have a Thing-O-Matic I am not 100% sure that these designs will print flawlessly which is why ive listed it as a work in progress. I did try to minimize extreme overhangs and wall thicknesses. I hope to get some feedback from the community as what needs to be improved to get these to print as well as possible. Thanks for taking a look and enjoy!

This is the first prototype to test the strength and usability of a printed wrench with use with universal sized tool tips. Good news, it worked. More developed models coming soon. This is the first step in a larger project for a multitool. Thanks to Luis for the help.

The Robo-Prosthetic Development Kit was a design put together for the "Dimension 3D Printing Extreme Redesign Contest." It is a wire driven assembly designed for experiments in prosthetic control. I was lucky enough to be awarded the first prize scholarship for my submission and have since dedicated those resources towards the development of the Bioraptor multi-tool 3D printer.

At the moment the Solidworks files are not ready for presentation, however the raw step files are not so bad and will hopefully provide a bit of inspiration to other with similar goals.

If you have questions or comments please feel free to drop me a line, just remember as a full time student it might take me a bit of time to respond.
Thanks for your interest and best of luck,
Dale

-----------------------------------------------
New Museum Challenge Info:
I suppose on the most basic level this design is a (crude) derivative of my own hand as I spent more than a few minutes staring at it and wiggling fingers while sketching the models up. The primary improvements are that this hand is designed to make it easier to integrate electronic feedback mechanisms into the prosthetic. There are open screw holes everywhere to allow for small circuit boards and sensors to be mounted so that in addition to movement, the user would gain some sense of sensory input.

While the initial requirements of the design required it to be made without embedded electronics or a specific recipient in mind, it's hard to imagine the this design being made in the time I took without a 3D printer. The final models seen in the pictures are actually scaled up versions of the original parts. Without having my colleges 3D printer to run several iterations and find the optimal work scale the models would have had to have been machined and in all likelihood, time constraints would have required me to just make one and hope that it came out perfectly the first time.

I would also like to mention that, in an effort to support my college's efforts to obtain grants for a FABLab in Worcester, MA, should I win, I will be donating the Makerbot to that future lab the day it's doors open. I plan, in the intervening time, to use the Makerbot to complete my square yard print area "Bioraptor." If you have any questions about that effort please contact Carol King via Quinsigamond Community College at (508) 854-7526.

My brother called up one day with a dilemma. He needed to mount his Xbox Kinect on his plasma TV, but didn't want to spend $40 on a cheap looking commercial mount. Knowing that I have an awesome 3d printing bot (which he usually says i'm wasting my time with), he gave me a few measurements of the TV to design a mount.

I already saw the trik tripod adapter and liked the design a lot, so I took the original STL file and started taking point geometry from it to create a new solid model. I then printed it and went to his house. Every thing fit well! Now it's mounted and has been in service for about a month.

***I'll get some pictures up after next week when I go and visit.

This project is documented at my blog eclecti.cc/hardware/facecube-copy-real-life-with-a-kinect-and-3d-printer , but I will summarize it here.

This project is a tangent off of something cool I've been hacking on in small pieces over the last few months. I probably would not have gone down this tangent had it not been for the recent publication of Fabricate Yourself. Nothing inspires me more than when someone does something cool and then releases only a description and pictures of it. Thus, I've written FaceCube, my own open source take on automatic creation of solid models of real life objects using the libfreenect python wrapper, pygame, NumPy, MeshLab, and OpenSCAD.

The real magic comes from when you take advantage of all that OpenSCAD has to offer. Make a copy of yourself frozen in carbonite, put your face on a gear, or make paper weights shaped like your foot. This is also where the name FaceCube comes from. My original goal going into this, I think at my roommate’s suggestion, was to create ice cube trays in the shapes of people’s faces. This can be done very easily in OpenSCAD, involving just subtracting the face object from a cube.

This OpenSCAD script will generate a grid pattern of small cuboids attached to a large flat cuboid.

The heights of the smaller cuboids will alternate sequentially.
The user can specify the number of rows & columns as well as the length & breadth of the smaller cuboids and the separation between adjacent cuboids.
The Number of different heights and the difference in height between smaller cuboids can be specified too.
The user can also choose whether or not to add Keyed connectors so that they can print multiple items that can then be easily connected together to for an arbitrarily large grid
The overall effect will be like the tread pattern of a mountain bike tyre or a 3D checker board.

A hangable 3D scanner based on the kinect, arduino, and a stepper motor.

Not working yet, but figured I'd put it up so I could get critiques and suggestions as I work.

The code base is currently in progress, will be borrowing heavily from Kyle McDonald's work for Makerbot, of course. Am sketching it up at the moment, unsure whether I want to do it in Java (very familiar) or Cpp through OF.

v0.2 (files up, not tested or 100%) Defined solution for hub. 4 piece design with bearings.

v0.15 Physical testing and modification of outerJoint and innerJoint. These include adding radial support screws, modified teeth, and refined build methods. The failed code is retained in the build methods with explanation, just for the hell of it.

v0.1 Framework of object and base line openSCAD file. Only parts printed/tested so far are arm joints.

This is a blueprint of the AR-15 Lower receiver.

This is freely available across the net. and since it is just a piece of paper with lines on it it is not a weapon.

I did not create this the cad artists name is D Snider.

I also of blueprints of a easily built Lower receiver were you really only need a drill press.

BTW Make/use at your own risk, know all laws before using or manufacturing, if you download the file you assume all liabilities for your actions.

Remember:

Guns dont kill people,
People dont kill people,
Bullets dont kill people,
Gaping holes in vital organs kill people. (the skin is a vital organ.)

Do as you wish with these drawings

included are two versions of detailed drawings for the colt 1911

These drawings are freely available on the net.

As far as I know these drawings are released government files from the 40s.

BTW Make/use at your own risk, know all laws before using or manufacturing, if you download the file you assume all liabilities for your actions.

Remember:

Guns dont kill people,
People dont kill people,
Bullets dont kill people,
Gaping holes in vital organs kill people. (the skin is a vital organ.)

enjoy

This is a basic AR-15 magazine follower. It fits any USGI magazine. NOTE.... This is NOT currently an anti-tilt follower and this is a work in progress. I am implementing anti-tilt functions that will be in the next revision, plus a few other changes to make it "beefy" and a magazine spring catch. The current one feeds and functions well, I put 100 rounds down range with it, no jams.... YET. Also in the works, is a whole printable magazine and spring.

Here's my contribution to the fun. A grip for the AR-15.
Grips are a highly personal bit... some people prefer A, others B, and some people can only use C, hate B and tolerate A... Solidworks file attached so you can edit the grip to your own preference.

Print at YOUR OWN RISK, Neither the creator of this object nor thingiverse.com is responsible for anything that happens because you printed this object!

UPDATE UPDATE (updated 7-Oct-2011 by KingLudd)

Please see:
blog.thingiverse.com/2011/10/03/deadly-weapons-on-thingiverse/

UPDATE

It is clear that the answer to King Ludd's question "Is it OK to post functional weapons and weapon components to Thingiverse" is a resounding YES! Thingiverse's operators broke their silence on the whole weapon issue only to make one smug and irrelevant remark here:
thingiverse.com/thing:11730

Of course, this was after they proudly sent two recent weapon-related links over to their friends at boingboing.

King Ludd's only humble request of Thingiverse is that they remove item 5 from the Guidelines on the upload page. Item 5 states "Please don't upload weapons. The world has plenty of weapons already." The actions and official policy of Thingiverse are in clear contradiction to this line item. This self-contradictory message serves only to confuse users and foment conflict between those that like weapons and those that do not.

If Thingiverse is happy to host weapons, and it is clear that they are, then they should have the decency to present a consistent message to that effect.

With that out of the way, King Ludd would like to say that he is really happy he posted this file. It is something he has been thinking about since crank posted his magazine follower way back when:
thingiverse.com/thing:6646

The Ludd has learned a lot from the many (seemingly well-informed) responses.

Favorite new thing he has learned about? This AR-15 Lower Receiver milled out of a plastic cutting board:
youtube.com/watch?v=3chSzLxPuzU

King Ludd is looking forward to seeing the first 3D printed AR Lower in action! Bonus points if you design it in openscad, and please post videos from the firing range!!!

CREDIT FOR SOURCE FILE
The source file came to King Ludd in a torrent package that contained much firearms related material. The source filename is ar15lwrmach_asm.igs and the author was not attributed. It was converted to STL by King Ludd. After comparing the source igs file to the AR lower found on cncguns, it is clear that while the filename and size are slightly different, the solid geometry is identical, so all credit should go to the good folks at cncguns.com. Please visit them if you are interested:
cncguns.com/downloads.html

^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_^_
For those unfamiliar with the American cult-of-the-firearm, an AR-15 is a popular semi-automatic rifle that can easily be purchased by well-behaved citizens in the United States. Enthusiasts are drawn to it because it is nicely engineered, reliable, versatile, highly modular, and good for many legitimate civilian uses.

The Lower Receiver is the frame that holds together all the other pieces of the firearm. In the States, all the other pieces can be purchased without a permit - over the counter or through the post. The Lower Receiver is the only part which requires a background check or any other kind of paperwork before purchase.

Typically this part is made of aluminium. A rifle with a Lower Receiver made of plastic can be perfectly functional.

King Ludd is posting this part as a response to all the people claiming that crank's nicely done AR magazine over here is harmless:
thingiverse.com/thing:11636

If it is OK to post a magazine, is it also OK to post a Lower Receiver? After all, it is just a hunk of plastic, right?

What about the other components? What about a high-capacity magazine? What about parts for a full-auto conversion? At what point does Thingiverse classify something as a weapon? Personally, King Ludd does not care where the line is drawn, but he thinks it would be nice if Thingiverse clarified where that line is.

Please enjoy the file. Do not attempt to make this part unless you are certain you are not breaking the law.

Print at YOUR OWN RISK, Neither the creator of this object nor thingiverse.com is responsible for anything that happens because you printed this object!

This is a near fully printable 5.56mm X 45mm or .233 REM AR-15 magazine. It is current only a 5 round magazine. I left my printed spring design out on purpose for saftey reasons. However, with a little printing experimention and some range time it can be made easily.

What is included is the magazine body, anti-tilt follower, and floorplate.

I have used this magazine, no jams or feed problems..... YET. It works, but be reminded it is only a printed ABS magazine. If you end up using a printed ABS mag spring be prepared for stress relaxation of the polymer over time, especailly if it is kept loaded over a long period of time.


DESIGN ERRATA------------------------------------------------------

09/20/2011 1:37pm MDT

The mag catch recess on the mag body(I don't know the official term) needs to move down from the feed lips approximately .010"-.015". My friends AR-15 sometimes would not feed the next round after firing. I believe that will address his problem. This will move the whole body up into the mag well approximate that far. Hopefully, that won't cause any issues with the bolt. I will post the fix sometime late tonight or early tomorrow. I apologize.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

These are a selection of elements that can be used with the ancient miniature war game rules De Bellis Antiquitatis or the fantasy version, Hordes of the Things. They may also work with Field of Glory, but I'm not very familiar with that game system.

The most current version of these rules can be downloaded from the developers website (http://www.wrg.me.uk/) in the "History of WRG" section. They are planning to release a new version for sale later this year.

These rules are sol as rules only, leaving it to the players to acquire figures from whatever vendor in whatever scale they choose. So why not just print your own!

I settled on 10 mm scale after trying 15 mm and 6 mm. At 15 mm, the resolution limitations of the printer are rather obvious. At 6 mm... well, I just wouldn't want to paint 40 little men for one element of troops... 10 mm is a nice compromise and it give a good impression of massed troops.

So far I've uploaded 4 of the 16 element types in the game. I hope to design the rest and upload them soon. There are a few additional elements in HotT such as dragons and Behemoths that I may or may not tackle, but I encourage anyone interested to jump in and supply their interpretation of these units!

This is not the most efficient way to make a rigid heddle loom, but it works. There are definitely some parts that need some editing, the heddle needs to be stronger, as do the front and back round beams. Also, the openSCAD files should be parameterized to accomodate any sized loom and heddle.

The loom took a lot of time/plastic to print and I don't expect anyone else to print it, but it was a great way to learn some openSCAD and to combine two of my hobbies.

Functional Pin Tumble lock. All of the components can be printed with the exception of the helix compression springs. These springs can be taken out of standard click pens. The springs I made this for are 4mm OD and ~20mm long.
I made a small window in the "Outer Barrel" to view the key pin pushing up on the driver pin.
This was a quick project to familiarize myself with the design constraints required for successful FDM designs/prints. I thought I would distribute since it could be fun for teaching and demonstrations.

After losing some hair over the issue, and with some help from Marius Kintel, I was finally enlightened as to why my dodecahedron was not coming out properly.

This thing represents some forms of the dodecahedron. In particular, it is combinations of the dual forms (dodecahedron/icosahedron). The .stl files are printed with a radius of 20mm, but you can change that to whatever you want either in the OpenScad, or by scaling.

The 'difference' form is probably the most interesting. It makes for a fairly decent calibration piece. It has some nicely sloping overhangs, bridges, and flat spots. I makes for some good tuning between ABS and PLA as well.

The challenge with the dodecahedron had to do with OpenScad not being happy with the pentagons I was trying to print. They had to be broken down into triangles, which Marius conveniently did for me.

The famous expanding and contracting ball toy that also makes excellent structural support for whatever sparse scaffolding you need. Basically, if you can design it as a geometric solid, you can probably make a collapsible version with this. In a pinch, also doubles as a jack or a reacher-grabber claw.

I was looking to build a NautilusX model en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nautilus-X and realized that Thingiverse didn't even have a Hoberman sphere library. It uses one-way snaps might be useful for other projects too.

I'm not nearly clever enough to invent the Hoberman sphere. Thanks to Charles Hoberman for the original concept and helpfully detailed drawings.

I needed a design that grouped together 4 catchers in a line. This design was created from scratch in Google SketchUp and only used the Parametric Cable Catcher by SSD to provide overall dimensions.

This is a simple way to cool your filament post-extrusion making tricky prints a little easier.

Yes, it's a bit ugly... I'd bet yours could be cleaner, I'm just always in a hurry.

It works - although I had a bit of a struggle to get great comparison photos, since things printed pretty well with it on and off. Definitely better on, though!

BE CAREFUL! I haven't used this long-term and I don't know if the silicone tubing will stand up to heat over time. I might put a layer of actual insulation between the tube and hot end (ZOLTEK! PYRON!)...

I do know the tubing deformed on the first print, but it just made it fit the hot end better, it didn't melt or burn... so might be OK even without the insulation.

BEFORE/AFTER PHOTO NOTES:

* Printed on my Prusa, using a Makergear .35mm hot end.
* Using 25-50mm/sec acceleration in Sprinter firmware.

This is the 5th version of my printable linear rail, I've gotten everything to finally work correctly. This can be used as a drop in replacement for a 3d printer's X or Y axis. It's rail system is designed to connect together to form any needed length.

This machine hopefully will be my entry for the Gada prize.


Update 06/16/2011:
I worked out a few modifications to the shuttle. Now the lower half of the shuttle can be printed as well, this removes:
4x 5/16(8mm) nuts
2x 5/16(8mm) bolts
2x 5/16 washers

-The next to go is going to be replacing the front 5/16(8mm) hardware with all printed parts. I'm trying to pare this down just the motor and the printed parts.

-I also redesigned the Large helical gear to incorporate the 608 bearing embedded inside of it. think this is an advantage of trying to use 2 bearings in the pillow block. The large helical gear is also now held in place by a printed 8mm bolt 40mm long. This removes one additional piece of hardware.

-The shuttle top now has 4 mounting holes, although I'm just securing the motor with 2 at this point.

-I printed 2 new 3-segment rails, redesigned lower half of shuttle to be printed.
-I also added 2 new pics of the x/y gantry system and uploaded all new parts - I should have another video.


Here is a youtube video of it in action:
youtube.com/watch?v=ScJMPw6UPtw

Comments and feedback are welcome.

This is a Derivative of the original Yazzo PolyBot by WilliamAAdams. I found the original design to be something I wanted to build and test with immediately. So I found some things I wanted to do differently and wanted other people to experiment with this awesome robot.

UPDATE: The Female and Male Clevis Elbows I had uploaded here are the wrong size. I no longer have the proper size on my computer. Please follow these links to get them:

thingiverse.com/thing:8130
thingiverse.com/thing:8129

On the original Polybot the files were spread around Thingiverse and were very hard to find, I have consolidated them into one spot.

I have also changed the threaded rod connectors of the Tetrahedron support structure. These new ones should be much easier to print and will print without support. They should also be much sturdier.

I have also changed the servo brackets to make them much easier to mount the servos. You no longer have to take apart your servos and struggle with getting them back together in order to mount them. The servos also sit out further off the platform. With the original design, the servos sat too far in on the platform making it impossible to get a good range of motion for the servo arms.

One of the negatives of these new designs is the need for fasteners. The original PolyBot was designed to use as few fasteners as possible. This one can be edited to make the holes smaller on the printed parts for the threaded rod to fit snugly into without the use of nuts. I prefer to use nuts because it makes assembly so much easier. Nuts are pretty inexpensive too and you are probably going to be in the hardware store anyway for the threaded rod.

Currently, I am using standard Medium Hobby Servos to move the arms. For now they work really well and easily move the lightweight arms of this bot.

As for the micro-controller, I am using a Picaxe 28X/40X. But you can use whatever you like.

If you find this bot to be interesting, I seriously recommend printing and building it. It is pretty cheap to build and doesn't take much time. It is a lot of fun to mess around with. As for improvements, I already have a bunch of ideas in mind. And I know WilliamAAdams is working on improvements for the original Cranberry Yazzo Polybot, hopefully he will release something soon!

Here is a video of it moving... I should have gotten it to do something more interesting. But I have to go to work in the morning and I spent the night preparing the files and doing this write-up. Kind of lame, more and better video soon! I promise!

flickr.com/photos/58101887@N02/5587175033/

Another update... I couldn't leave it for the night with just that crappy first video. So I programmed some numbers that might make the bot look like it is moving semi-coherently.

So here is a better video of Delta Robot Movement:

youtube.com/watch?v=fWZOHDWu0EM