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-----> adafruit.com/iotp

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Tri-Track robot chassis is based on Sublime 100mm wheel base track system. This design incorporates dual servo motors that are mounted above the chassis. This design allows for mounting a robot body or arm between the tracks. The battery pack and electronics will be moved as the design progresses.
Frame has been significantly strengthened to accommodate for the added stresses and to increase weight capacity.

UPDATE

12-20-11
Added platform base for mounting robot body or arm.

12/21-11 Added additional files

1-08-12
Rendered BaseLeft and BaseRight in two pieces, this enables them to be printed on a MakerBot. The two piece files are: BaseleftP1, BaseleftP2, BaserightP1, BaserightP2

There are errors in the Tri-Track Frame file. This fils is still printable. We are working on correcting errors.

1-12-12
Redesigned and added New Tri-Track Frame for Solid Axle construction. File Name: Tri-Track Frame For Solid Axle v1

Short video of Tri-Track in motion:

youtu.be/KcNyt-GK2NU

My plan is to build a two armed robot around this motorized platform.

CREDIT

Original Track design by Olalla
See thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Servo Mount is by Hoeken. thingiverse.com/thing:5165 This is printed horizontally for strength.

Ever played beer pong and the opponents build the worst shaped triangle ever? Never more I say!

This is the first iteration (third internal) of my attempt to make printable Velcro. It is pretty nice to hang things, probably this small piece will resist much more than a kilogram of weight (hanging weight) and it is very easy to remove.

3d printing revolution is just starting, I don't say this is a flawless piece but I really consider it is a very good example about a very sweet future about us modifying our brains from "search-buy-adapt" (frustration included) to "think-design-print" (self-pride included :D ).

Quick demo video: youtube.com/watch?v=BtLSMI3xVDY
Quick demo #2 (perpendicular): youtube.com/watch?v=eLehgIfjmpA

This was an object that did not exist in our 3d printing world, so I like to think this is an "upgrade" from real world to a better virtual&teleportable world ;)

This PCB connects an mbed microcontroller board [1] to a Sparkfun Quadstepper Motor Driver Board [2].
I use it for my RepRap Prusa Mendel 3D printer but you can use it for any CNC machine.

The firmware [3] for the mbed board is based on the Tonokip firmware and is compatible to ReplicatorG using the fived driver.

There are jumpers for a 100k thermistor, a hot-end (via 3.3V mosfet) and a thumb-joystick.

Update: new version (mbedquadstepperminimalNOatmega8u2.brd) has 2 mosfets and 2 thermistors and 3 min-endstops pins... but no support for atmega8u2 or thumb joystick anymore...

[1] mbed.org
[2] sparkfun.com/products/10507
[3] github.com/renebohne/RepRap-Firmware-for-mbed-microcontroller

Flow rate and feed rate are no longer difficult to calibrate, thanks to stepper extruders. However, to really get your print quality to the next level, you will need to calibrate temperature and reversal settings for a given material. (and/or travel feed rate, depending on your machine) This is a fully parametric calibration test for both bridging and gap distances within the same part.

Bridging is a great test for temperature. If the bridge is too saggy, the temperature is too high. There are also some advantages to higher temperatures though, one of which is it makes the thermoplastic less viscous, creating less work for the motor. If your preference is printing really hot, a fan concentrating cool air on the extrudate can also be used to calibrate bridging.

Traversing large gaps is obviously a great test for reversal/travel speed settings. Set extra shells to 0 to avoid hiding any ooze behind inner perimeters. Make the infill very low to save printing time since you only care about spanning gaps for this test. Use a camera for feedback if you are extra picky about strings.

Good Luck.

This is my submission to the MakerBot Robot Mascot Challenge!

A few comments:

Although I am no stranger to 3D modeling, this is my very first model intended to be 3D printed. I do not own a 3D printer of any sort and I have never 3D printed anything. That being said, I tried my best to research good design practices for FDM printing and I sure hope I did all-right!

Anyhoo, this little guy is customizable by having different parts printed in different colors. Also, he was designed to be able to be personalized by the producer being able to place his or her own model in the body to add personal flair. The feet articulate as do the head, arms and claws. Everything should snap together. The spool on his back is Mr. Maker's fuel supply! Take some 1.75mm filament and wind it on the spool (you may have to warm it to be more pliant) then thread the end through the top of his head.

Now he's ready to go!

I designed this in about 10 hours with Autodesk Inventor 2012.

(Many thanks to "techknight" for the advice on re-orienting the models in ReplicatorG!)

Also, I would LOVE to know how well this prints. I tried very hard to be mindful of the vertical slopes and tolerances but this being my first design for print, I don't really know for sure. If anybody prints this, I would GREATLY appreciate it if you could explain any issues. THANKS! :)

UPDATE!
I'm working on the Mark II version as well as an Experimental Mark III body that acts as a stylish enclosure for the Gen 4 electronics guts. I don't own the parts so it's a lot of guesswork at the moment...Along with a new segmented head so it can be wired up with lights or cameras or whatever you can fit in there! (The FOO and BAR lights on the console for example!)

The Mark II I'll be uploading soon. Unfortunately not soon enough for the contest, but it was always my goal to create a neat little gizmo that was hackable and modular for ultimate customization!

More to come!

Update: Name Change! As a nod to robotic lore, this little guy will now be known as R. Maker!

This is a transparent holder designed to store Nespresso coffee capsules. The capsules can be stored in 4 different rows with a maximum of 7 capsules per row. The holder can be placed next to your coffee machine. (You don't need to hang it on a wall.)

This Nespresso capsule holder was manufactured at the wonderful Fablab in Leuven, Belgium.

This is a fully parametric, fully printable, quadrocopter frame design done with Inventor. With this design you can print a quadrocopter with a 160-260mm motor to motor distance, giving enough room to accommodate props from 101.6mm (4") to 177.8mm (7").

Motivation: I wanted to build a quadrocopter which I could use to learn with, a basic requirement of this being that I need to be able to fix it with minimal cost and difficulty. So its a good job I have a 3d printer!

Draft: I started this design with the intention of squeezing all the electronics into the centre of the hub area, in the same plane as the arms. I completed a draft with this in mind, but I wasn't happy with how much plastic it consumed and I also hadn't given any though to how I would route cables around the frame. In addition to this, I based the design on "guestimate" dimensions, it was always going to need some sort of reworking.

Revision 1 (Pictured): The draft design gave me some good ideas to move forward with, it also gave me the confidence to buy the parts I'd need to eventually get this thing into the air. For this revision I moved the electronics to a more standard location on top of the hub area. There are fixing holes for the electronics on a square of 45mm about the centre, this can be varied. Another variable dimension is the motor to motor distance, which for this revision is set at 180mm allowing for a 10.16-12.7mm (4-5") prop.

With this revision I gave a little thought to routing of wires and came up with the "power layer". This component stacks with the hub of the quadrocopter and allows the esc's and battery to plug into the frame. Many quadrocopters suffer from the "flying spaghetti monster" problem, this solution goes some way to alleviate that.

This is the design I have printed, as it turns out I was being a bit ambitious with the prop size, all things accounted for it weighs about 450g. I calculate about 600g of thrust with this set up meaning its going to have to run at over 3/4 throttle to fly. Whilst not a show stopper its certainly going to strain the motors and esc's, and I doubt its going to be manoeuvrable.

Landing gear has also been added, not sure how it will perform but it certainly looks the part.

Revision 2: This design incorporates some lessons I learned from the previous revision. The arms are thinner, making them lighter per unit length, and allowing for greater prop sizes up to 177.8mm (7"). The thinner arms also mean the hub area uses less plastic, more weight saving. The minimum thickness of all components has also been reduced slightly in an attempt to remove some more redundant plastic. Due to the allowance for larger props I hope to achieve over 1kg of thrust with this design, giving much more acceptable performance.

Major Dimensions:
motor_to_motor = Distance between motor centers, dictates arm length which is limited by build platform size.
arm_width = Self explanatory
arm_height = Self explanatory
mounting_square = The side length of the square who's corners lie at the center of the mounting holes.
hub_square = Width of the hub.
pinch_gap = Width of the gap between the top and bottom hub components.
power_thickness = The max thickness of your power distribution circuit.
battery_width = Self explanatory
battery_thickness = Self explanatory
structural_cover = The minimum thickness of any section.

Please take note, I havent flown this yet. I ordered a receiver that as incompatible with my transmitter and am waiting for a replacement from chine (boo). I shall update this thing with pictures and hopefully videos when I get the last bits in place.

I'm open to any suggestions as to how I can improve this design further. Moving forward, I'm going to experiment with different thickness's in an attempt to find a good trade off between weight and strength.

Electronics Supplemental
Some info on the electronics was requested. There is an awful lot of choice in this respect, you ultimately need to decide on a control unit and a drive system. For my control unit (not pictured) I use an Arduino nano, "All in one" sensor board which can be found on ebay, and a fly sky 6 channel receiver (FS-R6B) to go with my fly sky transmitter (FS-TH9X). Such a control system will work for any quad configuration. The drive system is dependent on the quadrocopter weight and maximum allowable prop diameter, this choice is non trivial and I suggest you visit some quadrocopter forums where you will find a huge amount of sadvice and suggestions.

There is a wealth of further information at Aeroquad.com and multiwii.com

I think we can all agree, life would become much more interesting if I launched a turtle shell at you every once and a while.

But it’s no fun if I’m the only one with a shell to launch. Therefore…

Turtle Shells for Everybody!!!

All you have to do is print it out and assemble!

The Turtle Shell Racer is as fully 3d printable as I can make it using my Makerbot Cupcake CNC and its MK5 Extruder. The pdf file contains full assembly instructions and a parts list. This is a very ambitious project; expect to spend some time on it.

Video of the Shells in action at CCCKC:
youtube.com/watch?v=YAd3e_UTW4c
youtube.com/watch?v=wA-wY-Q_onU

UPDATE Sept 26th

I have uploaded the modifications I made to the shells for the NYC Maker Faire.

Wheely Bar.stl - This replaces the rear axle brackets.stl with a wheely bar, which allows awesome wheelys!

New stearing Link.stl - This new link replaces the old steering linkage.stl. It is designed to capture one of the servo horns and allow a better connection between the servo and the steering.

Tired of spilling your "Friends" water while giving them a drink during that long hot walk?
Then un-screw the cap from your 500mL plastic water bottle, screw this on, turn it over and they will lap it up.
Dudley approved, 4 barks!

reggiewatts.com/

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reggie_Watts

YAPML yet another poor man's library that makes things finding it hard to render and taking its time to compile.

In this case the self-replicating polyhedron is intended to give a mechanical touch to your freshly (or not) designed cylindrical surfaces. Hmmmm... you can also thing that those things all-around the cylinder are diamonds and use it for jewelry.

The examples scad provided uses OpenSCAD MakerBot Font Module by grokbeer licensed under BY-SA-NC license (link in the instructions section)

Photos... aubenc.imgur.com/knurled_finish_surface

UPDATE:
(Just in case you don't read the comments bellow)
Video by sirmakesalot (thank you very much!!)... youtube.com/watch?v=uz8h--NsX7E


Things using this library :-)

Bowden Clamp for Ultimaker by owen
thingiverse.com/thing:11864

Spindle for 5lb spool by mikeq
thingiverse.com/thing:12871

Knurled "topper" for stepper motors by Pazu
thingiverse.com/thing:13978

Ultimaker Hobbed Bolt Release by bkubicek
thingiverse.com/thing:14505

Hobbed bolt holder by coffeeMaker
thingiverse.com/thing:16136

Shane's Coral Frag Plugs by sgraber
thingiverse.com/thing:16982

Bowden Clamp for Ultimaker (Feeder End) by pit3k
thingiverse.com/thing:17027

NEW! as of June 17.

This is now a complete modular rocket system!

Pick a nosecone, body tube(s), fincan, nosecone coupler, and voila! A semi custom printable rocket!

I plan to be adding new sections on a regular basis so check back often! Feel free to leave feedback if there is some feature you'd like to see that isn't up yet :)

Important dimensions to make compatible modules:
Tube Outside Diameter - 1.75in
Tube Inside Diameter - 1.667in
Coupler Tube Outside Diameter (tight): 1.663in
Coupler Tube Outside diameter (looser): 1.659in

NOTE: The designs are closely based on the Legacy design and should work well, but many of them are still untested. I'm working on it, though.

When putting the ToM together it struck me that the timing belts looks a lot like tank treads when flipped inside out. I think small robots are fun so I decided to try making a chassis based on some 140XL timing belts.
This is the parts that I ordered for eBay;
[Edit] The 300RPM motors where no good as they had to little torque. So go for these;
cgi.ebay.com/2x-12V-DC-1000-RPM-Mini-Torque-Gear-Box-Motor-Hobby-/220789730351?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336817ec2f

cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400073201227&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170540927152&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT


I added a small project description over at LMR letsmakerobots.com/node/27218

This is the surface generated by a sinc function (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinc_function). It was inspired by some of the other work done on knots, specifically emmett who was using matlab.

The openSCAD file contains the matlab code to generate the surface which was then imported into openSCAD. openSCAD offers a very simple method for turning height data into an object.

This is a block to connect a standard 20x40mm servo to LEGO bricks.

This is very much a work in progress.

The goal of this project is to create a robot which can "print" designs with Perler Beads automatically. The raw material would be multicolored unsorted Perler beads. The robot would accept a bitmap image with some pixel art you'd like to recreate in Perler beads. It would automatically sort the beads and place them on a grid, ready to iron.

So far...

I have a blog post explaining some of my ideas so far:
scanlime.org/2011/02/perler-bead-robot-ideas/

And another post about the color sensor I plan to use:
scanlime.org/2011/02/trying-out-the-avago-adjd-s371-q999-color-sensor/

A video of the vibrating funnel in action:
flickr.com/photos/micahdowty/5407791891/in/set-72157625540465089/

The design comes in several "layers" which stack vertically with standard M4 hardware. First there is a hopper for the raw unsorted beads, then a vibrating funnel which extracts the beads in single-file. Next, a sorter which includes a color sensor, and a servo-driven disc which shuttles the beads back and forth at the right time. This will sit above some kind of X-Y table, which can be rather simple given the low precision requirements.

Currently the first two layers, the hopper and the vibrating funnel, are mostly done. The sorter is more of a sketch than a final design at this point, and it will probably change significantly.

CodeThread is libary for processing that lets you create g-code as you calculate coordinates for a toolpath.

One of the things we love about makerbot in contrast to commercial printers is that you have complete control over every aspect of the print technique. We think there is a lot of opportunity to develop new printing styles with makerbots, beyond traditional solid prints.

We wanted to experiment with the materiality of makerbot prints by working directly in gcode with processing, so we made this small library that provides some simple functions for generating gcode commands, and prints a gcode file.

Library (v1.1.2):
diatom.cc/code/processing/libraries/codethread/codethread_1.1.2.zip

Documentation:
diatom.cc/code/processing/libraries/codethread/reference/

Github Repository:
github.com/DiatomStudio/CodeThread/

Our experiments (including some description of the images attached here):
blog.diatom.cc/codethread

It's still pretty fresh, hope to have some more updates and examples soon!

Input important information that is specific to your machine, specify the speed and resolution you desire, and get back values to enter into Skeinforge(for great looking prints!). Unpolished MK6 reversal calculations are also available, but are still a work in progress.

Inspired by the work of Dave Durant: thingiverse.com/thing:5310

The first sheet is for working with Skeinforge, and the other has general calculations.

Designed to put two gear motors of this model back to back:
pololu.com/catalog/product/1120

or the lower torque equivalent of the same housing.

has 3 mounting holes on the top and bottom.
has 2 mounting hole in the front, added after picture was taken.

Includes a hole to line up with the tab on the motor.

Designed to be a modular component of my sumobot.

The Automatic Affirmation Device only has one thing to say:
YES.
Will today be a good day? Will I pass that exam? Is this the best idea I ever had ever?
YES.
The Automatic Affirmation Device is your own personal confidence booster that is never wrong.

This is designed to be a gift, the perfect gift, (for you to give) to someone who is in need of some caring reassurance.

This is a variation on the Stanford Bunny, loaded into Meshlab and then lo-rezzed using Quadratic Decimation.

A robotic arm with 2 degrees of freedom (DOF) controlled by 2 servos and an arduino. Fishing line (or extruded plastic threads) acts as tendons and a spring at each joint allow the arm to curve evenly.

This project is a stepping stone to a larger project, so it is not meant to do anything useful yet, but be used as a part of whatever you can come up with.

Video: youtube.com/watch?v=Yk7Muaigd4k

This Thing is an Inkscape template for printing on a bandaid. The bandaid I used just barely fit onto my Sticky Note Tray, but I needed to keep it clipped down with binder clips. The dimensions of the bandaid were a 19mm x 65mm wide area with two small curved areas at the edge, making the entire bandaid 79mm long.

Custom bandaids for all!

As with the 100 acre wood sticky note GCode ( thingiverse.com/thing:6729 ), this is based on the now public domain original Winnie The Pooh drawings.

A fabric-based portable XY gantry. The two driving ideas behind the design are the way in which the string is wound in order to achieve two degrees of freedom, and the notion of 3D printing components with eyelets so that they can be sewn onto fabric.

The components were printed on a Dimension FDM machine with support material. Some post-processing was necessary to enlarge holes for bearing shafts and bearings. I'd imagine that you could print on a Makerbot and still get a useable component after additional post-print work. I'm using surplus gearhead motors which I found on ebay, but stepper motors could be easily adapted by changing the drive holder.


Additional information and media regarding the project can be found here:

newtextiles.media.mit.edu/?p=570

Yay! Ninjas in your kitchen! This is a printable "Shuriken" fridge magnet.
SHOW EVERYONE YOUR NINJA PRINTING SKILLS! :-D

Updated: Version 103 has more user-friendly parameters. The 103.stl has an altered impact angle. So if you plan on printing more than one: Download and print both STLs for a more natural "ninja attack" look :-)

This is a simple 2 degree of freedom quadruped using the versatile servo bracket system. thingiverse.com/thing:5784. Here's a Youtube video of the little bugger. youtube.com/watch?v=Z9ne67bbpSQ.

The controller in the picture is a Jaluino justanotherlanguage.org/. The servo shield on top is my own design. highschoolrobots.com/Jaluinoservoshield.aspx

I made an owl wrapper based off of (thing:870) for one of my children, however the other said she liked Pugs better. So I sat down and came up with the derivative of a wrapper shaped like a pug.