I wanted a mount to hold the SparkFun Bluetooth Mate Silver modem that I'll be using on my RepRap Prusa Mendel thanks to this:
thingiverse.com/thing:13506

I edited the OpenSCAD file for the Arduino module and adjusted it to fit the modem. I also removed the extra tabs (originally there were 6).

This should also fit the BlueSMiRF modules as well.

I set the length to be 40mm so that I'd have a little room at the end for solder points.

This is a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:5396 as well.

This is a DIY art. This was one of the first project I printed on my 3D-Printer. Just a really cool thing to have. :)

This is how it looks live: youtube.com/watch?v=G-c5_IVQEhE

Another feeble box of Lucky Charms cereal? No problem, create that most excellent bowl with charms in every bite with this Charms Sifter. The holes are sized to catch most charms, you should be able to sift > 90% of them.

Please note: Diabetic supplies not included.

I found this video and wanted to make my own. One nut goes on right handed and one goes on left. All overhangs are 50deg so it should print without trouble.

youtube.com/watch?v=o-fPsvqjqZI&NR=1

Update:
In case you missed it in the comments, the original screw and video were made by VeryWetPaint (http://www.thingiverse.com/VeryWetPaint).

Y U NO POST SOURCE FILES?!

Oh well, I traced the source image loosely, so now we can all make our own bookshelf today, and don't have to wait until mid next year.

Made from a sketchup model

The original had tolerences that were too loose when printed on my Thing-O-Matic, so I started re-writing the frame in OpenSCAD. This fits together perfectly on my printer and works great. It all snaps together nice and tight and turns smoothly - all plastic no screws! I also added a hand crank to make it easier to turn. This makes an awesome demo object!

Here's a video of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=g73Gw_hJUnE

The most minimal RAMPS mounting I could come up with.

You'll notice from the photos that M3 hardware doesn't exactly fit, and I had to put one bolt /under/ the board as a result.

I plan to shorten my wires and do some more fixing up, sorry for the awful and blurry photos.

You might ask, why would I want to design and print something like a peg board hook when you can buy a sack full at Home Depot for a couple bucks? Well, I live on a very small island on the far side of the world and if I don't make it, I don't get it.

While staying at someone's house for a while, my wife found the shower difficult to use. The Grohe shower head is one of those hand held types, but the wall bracket did not match the shower head correctly, and held it at the wrong angle....the shower head was perpetually pointing in towards the wall. So to shower, you had to constantly hold the shower head in your hand the whole time. My first thought was that that bracket was mounted upside down or something, but no luck. It must just be mismatched. So, I designed and printed a new bracket that holds the shower head at the right angle.

After I was done, I noticed other similar OpenSCAD objects on Thingiverse, that I probably could have modified, but I made a new one in Solidworks since I did not search until afterwards.

I saw this link a few days ago( instructables.com/id/Robotic-claw-business-card/ ) I was going to make it, but then I remembered me making a paper claw a few weeks ago, so instead of making a copy of someone else's design, I made my own! And also their design had gears, it would be hard to cut it out without a laser cutter, because I don't have one. So I used the mechanism from my claw and put it into this business card, and it works, and I suggest if you are going to make it, use a laser cutter, This was kinda hard to do and I had to use wire instead of the disks in it to move.

If anyone would like to test this to make sure that the parts work, go right ahead! I also think it could be 3d printed, if someone would like to modify it and test that out!

And ignore the pink post-it note, I had my name printed there and I dont want it to be online.

But how to divide that tasty,tasty treat fairly, and avoid arguments...

The usual approach; print something.

This is a simple tool used to mark a circular thing into equal-sized wedges which can then be cut with a knife. The number wedges is imprinted on the top.

I have modified Skeinforge to be more practical and easier to tune. features include:
-Will not mess up your old Skeinforge settings as it will use its own sfact_profiles directory inside its own folder.
-Deleted unused plugins and unused settings. (IMHO)
-Namings of variables changed to be more understandable.
-Important settings moved to top of Plugin Tab.
-Default values give good prints rightaway.
-Internally used Gcode files use extension .gmc now.
-Most Feedrates are now entered as values (mm/s) and their respective flowrates are 1 so you dont have to enter everything twice.
(exception bridge feed and flow is relative to main feed)
-First Layer Travel Feedrate can be specified in mm/s so it doesnt tear off your print.
CARVE:
-Extrusion width is now entered in mm instead of a ratio to layer height.
CHAMBER:
-Moved Turn Extruder off at shutdown to Chamber.
-Added Turn PrintBed off at shutdown.
CLIP:
Clip over Perimeter width is now calculated automatically. The default is 1 and can be tuned from there.
DIMENSION:
-Added feature for calibration.
-Retract can be set conditionally depending on extrusion amount before retract and the travel move in retracted state (SF Beanshell). Also retract can be forced to happen if moving over loops.
EXPORT:
Replaced Export plugin with Gary Hodgson's plugin.
-Option to export settings as Zip file or a single CSV file for sharing.
-Option to individually name the exported gcode files with description, timestamp and profile used.
FILL:
-Infill width over layerthickness setting is replaced by Extrusion Lines Extra spacing.
-Extrusion Lines Extra spacing is calculated automatically and defaults to 1 for tuning.
-Infill Overlap over Perimeter is also calculated internally and defaults to 1 so it can be easily tweaked.
INSET:
The ınset value is now Overlap Removal and is also calculated internally with default 1 for tweaking.
PREFACE:
-Added the option to send Extruder reset (G92 E0) command before print so that the extruder does not spool back after priming. (Even without start.gmc file)
RAFT:
-Ordering, grouping and namings changed to reflect the use of interface settings for the support structures.
-Support feedrate and support flowrate can be set seperately.
-Support extension(s) are now more understandable.
-First Layer feedrates are given in mm/s instead of a ratio to the main feedrate.
SPEED:
-Feedrates are entered as values with respective flowrates as 1, instead of entering sam value again. (except for Bridge Feedrate).
-Nozzle Lift setting has been changed to Extra nozzle Lift over object and defaults to 0.
-Wipe is on by default and is around the 0 point

Known Bugs:
-Only Line infill works reliably
The latest release is : See Below..

Please Comment about your experience, positive or negative.


SOON TO COME
-Skin plugin with better working calculation,
-Leadin Plugin to get rid off the "SEAM" that is created during Layer change..
-First Layer Travel moves are all now limited to "acceptable" speeds
-Retraction control is more sophisticated.
-Extrusion calculation is even better.
-and a lot of small things...
-more to it later on reprapfordummies.net keep tuned..

A writeup with links and images is on my blog: eclecti.cc/computergraphics/snow-globe-part-one-cheap-diy-spherical-projection

Since reading Snow Crash, I’ve been drawn to the idea of having my own personal Earth. Because I’m stuck in reality and the virtual version of it is always 5 years away, I’m building a physical artifact that approximates the idea: an interactive spherical display. This is of course something that exists and can likely be found at your local science center. The ones they use are typically 30-100″ in diameter and cost enough that they don’t have prices publicly listed. Snow Globe is my 8″ diameter version that costs around $200 to build if you didn’t buy a Microvision SHOWWX for $600 when they launched like I did.

The basic design here is to shoot a picoprojector through a 180° fisheye lens into a frosted glass globe. The projector is a SHOWWX since I already have one, but it likely works better than any of the non-laser alternatives since you avoid having to deal with keeping the surface of the sphere focused. Microvision also publishes some useful specs, and if you ask nicely, they’ll email you a .STL model of their projector. The lens is an Opteka fisheye designed to be attached to handheld camcorders. It is by far the cheapest 180° lens I could find with a large enough opening to project through. The globe, as in my last dome based project is for use on lighting fixtures. This time I bought one from the local hardware store for $6 instead of taking the one in my bathroom.

I’ve had a lot of fun recently copying keys and people, but my objective in building a 3D printer was to make it easier to do projects like this one. Designing a model in OpenSCAD, printing it, tweaking it, and repeating as necessary is much simpler than any other fabrication technique I’m capable of. In this case, I printed a mount that attaches the lens to the correct spot in front of the projector at a 14.5° angle to center the projected image. I also printed brackets to attach the globe to the lens/projector mount. The whole thing is sitting on a GorillaPod until I get around to building something more permanent.

Actually calibrating a projector with slight pincushion through a $25 lens into a bathroom fixture attached together with some guesswork and a 3D printer is well beyond my linear algebra skill, so I simplified the calibration procedure down to four terms. We need to find the radius in pixels of the circle being projected and the x and y position of the center of that circle for starters. The more difficult part, which tested my extremely rusty memory of trigonometry is figuring out how to map the hemisphere coming out of the fisheye lens to the spherical display surface. For that, we have a single number for the distance from the center of the sphere to the lens, in terms of a ratio of the projected radius. The math is all available in the code, but the calibration script I wrote is pretty simple to use. It uses pygame to project longitude lines and latitude color sections as in the image above. You use the arrow keys to line up the longitude lines correctly to arrive at the x and y position, plus and minus keys to adjust the radius size until it fits the full visible area of the sphere, and 9 and 0 to adjust the lens offset until the latitudes look properly aligned. What you end up with is close enough to correct to look good, though as you can see in the images, the projector doesn’t quite fit the lens or fill the sphere. The script saves the calibration information in a pickle file for use elsewhere.

Going back to the initial goal, I wrote a script to turn equirectangular projected maps of the Earth into roughly azimuthal equidistant projected images calibrated for a Snow Globe like the one above. There are plenty of maps of the former projection available freely, like Natural Earth and Blue Marble. Written in python, the script is quite slow, but it serves as a proof of concept. The script, along with the calibration script and the models for the 3D printed mounts are all available on github. I’ve finally fully accepted git and no longer see a point in attaching the files to these posts themselves. I put a Part One in the title to warn you that this blog is going to be all Snow Globe all the time for the foreseeable future. Up next is writing a faster interface to interactively display to it in real time, and if I think of a good way to do it, touch input is coming after that.

Download from github:
git://github.com/nrpatel/SnowGlobe.git

I think we can all agree, life would become much more interesting if I launched a turtle shell at you every once and a while.

But it’s no fun if I’m the only one with a shell to launch. Therefore…

Turtle Shells for Everybody!!!

All you have to do is print it out and assemble!

The Turtle Shell Racer is as fully 3d printable as I can make it using my Makerbot Cupcake CNC and its MK5 Extruder. The pdf file contains full assembly instructions and a parts list. This is a very ambitious project; expect to spend some time on it.

Video of the Shells in action at CCCKC:
youtube.com/watch?v=YAd3e_UTW4c
youtube.com/watch?v=wA-wY-Q_onU

UPDATE Sept 26th

I have uploaded the modifications I made to the shells for the NYC Maker Faire.

Wheely Bar.stl - This replaces the rear axle brackets.stl with a wheely bar, which allows awesome wheelys!

New stearing Link.stl - This new link replaces the old steering linkage.stl. It is designed to capture one of the servo horns and allow a better connection between the servo and the steering.

Snap together 3D printable truck-like robot. Unlike the cool-but-ultimately-non-functional Tank designs ( thingiverse.com/thing:6554 and thingiverse.com/thing:8080 ), this bot actually works. Sadly the motors could not generate enough torque to actually move the tank robot due to the amount of friction introduced by the worm gear and tank treads. Encouraged by the success of my 27 to 1 Reduction Gearset thingiverse.com/thing:9414 I designed this bot from the ground up to be low friction, snap-together and almost entirely 3D printable. The only non-printable components are the motors, the motor mounting screws, the batteries, the wire and the nuts that serve as contacts in the battery holders. I hope to upload some PCB mounts soon so you can easily add the electronics necessary to make this bot autonomous, but if you are impatient I recommend looking into NBitWonder's awesome DC Motor Driver thingiverse.com/thing:7618 which was designed for the tank-bot.

I used this script to design the gears: thingiverse.com/thing:3575 (You will need to download the scad to use the attached truck.scad file). I also used this script to generate the battery holders: thingiverse.com/thing:5079

VIDEO:
youtube.com/watch?v=F-qvDO9QZV4
As you can see from the video, the left rear axel isn't spinning freely and needs some sanding/filing.

UPDATE:
I fixed the drag on the left rear axel by replacing "axelholder.stl" with "wheelholder.stl" in conjunction with "axelend2.stl".
youtube.com/watch?v=o3SWtk4X-1Q

UPDATE #2:
I uploaded design files and instructions for the electronics:
thingiverse.com/thing:11055
youtube.com/watch?v=ZA7mihbLalw

UPDATE #3:
Parametric oversized snaptogether 3d-printable wheels:
thingiverse.com/thing:14347
youtube.com/watch?v=9cWYPE-cpFg

NOTE:
This design is based on the tolerances of my cupcake 3D printer. As several folks who printed out the 27 to 1 gearset pointed out, the Thing-O-Matic has much better tolerances, so some of the snap-together parts may need some glue (or openscad tweaking) if your printer is better than mine!

I decided to make a version of the sword from the 80's cartoon. As an exercise for using sketchup and for a present for a friend's birthday. Just in time for the impending "event" (T-cats reboot), this Friday.

I spent a lot of time on the model. I started with a few models from 3dwarehouse. None were very good for printing, or scaled well for actually holding. All of them relied on textures for details that wouldn't show up after printing.

Initially the model came out too small. Then it didn't fit the hand well. Once it was sized and shaped correctly I had to work out how it could be chopped up to fit my build envelope. The latest version has location holes to help line up parts and glue together. It seems that the blade has benefited greatly from the interior channel. Even without the filament the blade is stronger.

I'm working on another version with an insert for the eye and an insertion slot for the blade. So that the whole sword can be printed by colors: grip, blade, eye, jewel.

Finished sword is about 45 inches (1145mm) from pommel to tip.
Oh and time for print @ 30mm/s min layer time of 20 secs:
6x blade pieces 5 hours
blade tip 1.75 hours (cool min layer makes it take a long time)
eye holder 2.5 hours
2x grip pieces 2.75 hours
pommel pieces 2 hours
total about 14 hours

Please let me know if there are any issues.
I'm aware that looking through the hilt only gives you the "Sight of Regular Seeing." Working on that.
------------------
Update V2:
Added an update eye holder piece, with an insertion hole for the blade, the blade can be printed (in an optional extra color) and sanded/cleaned/finished then inserted into the holder. The insertion point's clearance hasn't been tested, but should be close. Might need sanding cleaning for the blade to fit.

Also the new holder has inserts for the eye and cat emblem, which can be printed in two colors using the whole pause and swap method when it first starts printing the upper portion. This is also not printed yet but should be good. I'll print these and repport back later today.

So for this, obviously instead of eye-holder.stl you'd use eye-holderV2 and the inserts. One of each or two of the same one.

Switching to work in progress.

------------------
Update V3:

Found a small geometry problem in the eye holder as well as the fact that the thin ring (around the eye/cat image) was too thin to print nicely so changes to the inserts as well. Apologies if this print is too tall, I looked up the build envelope for a stock cupcake and fixed the model to stay under the published height of 130mm but if you have trouble with that use the V3 eye holder and the new shorter blade pieces.

Removed the original eye holder to reduce confusion. Any combined print can be exported from the sketchup.

------------------
Update V4:

Added the center channel for using threaded rod or double ended threaded studs. The hole is a 3mm and can be drilled out to a larger dim if need be. I've left the other registration holes for those that prefer to use that.

Also reversed the extrusion on the cat-insert to get around skeinforge's refusal to fill thin features. Prints *much* nicer. If you've already printed one, this one is a big improvement (see photo).

I'm sure everyone has felt the need for quick meal, for me as a student that happens a lot :-). Often I went to McDO, Bking etc..

But after a while you start to notice some things
- it's not the most healthy option
- you don't know exactly what's in that sometimes weird looking burger
- price compared to quality it's not always that great

This got me thinking with this result: I like to present to you Burgalicious. For your own homemade burgers.
- depending on how you cook it can be much healthier
- you know yourself what the burger is made of. It can be anything from meat, fish, to potato's or veggie replacements.
- for the price of a commercial burger you can make 2 or 3 maybe even more.

It's designed so it can be cleaned easily, I printed it in plain white so it can be inspected after cleaning .

Our real wedding rings! They started their life in Google Sketchup ;-)

Did you ever wonder about the history of the reprap ?

reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Family_Tree

It's a visualization of the evolution of the reprap and some other 3d-printers over time (with 150+ projects now, and updated every 2-3 months).

"In the core team, we see what I will call a punctuated animal model of evolution while the larger reprap community is a very vibrant bacterial model." -Forrest Higgs (16-01-2009), about the evolution model of the reprap.

Why oshw is great ? Because it's alive muahaha !

[01/11/2011] update 3.2
[07/01/2012] update 3.3
[14/04/2012] update 4.0
[29/10/2012] Now on github ! github.com/EmmanuelG/OpenHardwarePhylogenetics/tree/master/RepRap%20Family%20Tree

I made another magic figure that was missing in the thingiverse - a unicorn with pink hair (and a rainbow)

local-guru.net/blog/2011/06/06/3d-printed-unicorn-with-rainbow

Re-created from scratch TARDIS. Panels and window details just about visible on this one.

In the tradition of barrel of monkey's these guys are meant to link together en masse. They can form chains or even checkered sheets by connecting on all four corners.

This thing was originally conceived and designed by MakerBot's own Matthew Griffin (http://thingiverse.com/mifga). Enjoy and please send comments, we're still working on it!

Check out v16 for our latest and greatest version! the sc55 version is the version that they are printing at MakerBot lately....

For those busy days...

because it's there.

The Bre Pettis Medal looked a little forlorn without some text around the edge... so I grabbed grokbeer's MakerBot Font module, and whipped up a little addition to the medal script.

The font module: thingiverse.com/thing:6844

"Like a black box on a plane, except it homes. Anything happens to the ship, the Home Box flies home with all the flight data."

It's hard to see the features in the Thingiverse picture. Try out the Thingiview version. Only a few lines in OpenSCAD, but a cool object - especially for a fan of Doctor Who.

We'll be scanning a tv personality next week and so we are renting a Polhemus high end laser scanner. We needed to test it out. Bre Pettis: Scanner Guinea Pig.

Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to democratize personal fabrication.

Also a derivative of Statue of Liberty Edited: Book on Hip by QuasiFandango thingiverse.com/thing:1128

A little model (loosely) based on the Cray Supercomputers of the 70's and 80's. I don't know how well it will print, and would be happy if someone would print one and upload a photo of it.
Due to incredibly bad planning on my part, the whole thing is 3'9" tall. I assume that it can be scaled down for printing, and the original Sketchup file is included if you want to modify it.

Simple. Elegant. Parametric Faceted bracelet that any lady would love. Looks like a nut. Guess that makes her arm the bolt. =) The must have accessory of the year! As seen on CES 2012 runway, MAKE magazine, and Robot Film Festival red carpet.

My first 3D printed project! Here's the OpenSCAD and STL files.

Collaborative project with thingiverse.com/beatbots