My simplified version of mendel. All axes are compatible with regular mendel. Actual information you can find on RepRap wiki reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel and most recent OpenSCAD source files are on my GitHub github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

Last update is, that its working and its pretty darn good :-)

THE PHOTOS: Are mostly of the OLD design these STLs are meant to pretty-up, but illustrate how to make one without a 3D printer.

WHAT IS IT?
A Chording Keyboard is a one-handed (usually) input device, where you type keystrokes by pressing combinations of buttons. Kind of like playing Guitar Hero. It's also called a Keyer. All the commercially available designs are bulky, old, and stupid, but the basic idea of a chording keyboard is a great one for wearable computing.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chording_keyboard
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyer

I've always wanted to produce this design -- poor guy gave up before everyone on the planet had a 3D printer: xaphoon.com/dataegg/

MY DESIGN:
But my design is nothing of the sort. I put this together a while back, before I had a 3D printer, myself. If you want to go that route, you can... there's no reason to use my STLs, and they're not even complete. So this is basically a very old project I am resurrecting now that I have more resources; but this version is basically the old resource-starved version.

It's based around a Nintendo Wii remote. These things are amazing devices for hardware hacking; the wiimote unit itself contains:
* Several accessable button/switches
* A speaker
* 3-Axis Accelerometer
* BLUETOOTH
* A point-tracking infrared CAMERA. Seriously!
* Vibration buzzer
* Expansion port... with Arduino/ATmega library!!

You can find Wiimotes on sale as low as $15; normally about $30. There is no other way to get this kind of functionality attached to an ATMega/Arduino for twice the price. Probably significantly more.

WHAT YOU NEED:
This little project doesn't even use an ATMega or Arduino (yet) - all you need is a wiimote, some appropriate buttons, and a way to put/hold it all together.

WHAT YOU GET:
The only software *I* am providing assumes you are running Linux, and will only work there. But it would be trivial for anyone with knowledge of their operating system to modify for their purposes; the libraries it relies on are available on all platforms. All you need to do is know how to hook into your OS's input queue so you can imitate a keyboard/mouse.

WHAT IT CAN DO:
* Use the buttons to emulate a keyboard, obviously.
* Use the accelerometer to emulate a mouse.
* All this over BLUETOOTH!

WIP WHY:
* Just until I get some STLs that work for this design. I have future designs already under way but they will be separate Thingiverse projects.
* I'm not uploading the .scad files until I'm done, since Thingiverse refuses to render STLs anymore in a Thing once I've uploaded something it can't render.

ABOUT THE STL:
The STL published is a slightly fixed version of the one in the photos, which has too-thin walls and too little space between index finger and thumb buttons.

WHERE THE SOFTWARE LIVES:
github.com/ScribbleJ/WiimoteKeyer

This is a heavily cleaned & modified version of artur83's Penrose Triangle, which was a great design however not printable.

It is now enlarged (longest dimension 99.97mm) and printable on almost any FDM printer without requiring support. Walls have been thickened at the bottom to ensure a secure footing and to minimise excess overhang angles.

Best viewed with one eye closed - looking at it with 2 eyes almost ruins the illusion :)

3D Printed Miniature Centrifugal Pump Prototype

Prototype only - uploaded on request. Improved version coming soon.

Youtube Video of it in action : youtube.com/watch?v=H102VH8a8bM

madox.net/blog/2010/11/16/miniature-3d-printed-pump-using-up-pp3dp-printer/

Super Miniature version of it here : thingiverse.com/thing:4857

[Update] This thing unfortunately was one of the victims of the recent “catastrophic hardware failure” at Thingiverse.com. It used to be "thing:4811", now it's "thing:4812" :)
I'm not sure if it's possible to recover the comments on the original thing (as far as I know, the comments section is outsourced and not part of the thiniverse servers).
Also, the "Likes" are gone... Do you still like this thing?

---

Since the original frame of my Gaui 330XS Quadrocopter was damaged in a crash, I built a new frame from scratch, using printed plastic parts.
The four arms are 10x10mm wood profiles (cheap, sturdy, light weight). The motors and electronics are cannibalized from the crashed Gaui Quadrocopter. But it should be no problem to use other motors and/or electronics for this.

This is a complete set of printable corners for the RapMan 3.x printer from Bits From Bytes.

They may be used as stronger replacements for the (very fragile) standard acrylic corners, and are designed to be installed without having to take the whole machine apart. Most corners now require only 3 easily-accessible bolts (down from 8), and importantly, no more fiddly grub screws :)

Apart from making the whole machine stronger, the Z motor corner now includes a mechanism to easily and accurately adjust the tension on the Z belt. This is now a one-handed operation, not three-handed!

The Y motor corner requires 2 files (top_backleft.stl, ymotor_clip.stl) whilst the Z motor corner requires 4 files (bottom_frontright_backleft.stl, zmotor_*.stl) All other corners are each 1 file only; even the top corners, as the bearing holders are now all integrated.

I have endurance-tested these parts with a 24-hour non-stop print and everything is still running smoothly. If I find any weaknesses, I will update the STLs.

NB: Some of the green STL auto-renders displayed left and below are mirrored; they are however correct once you download them (tested in both BFB Axon and MiniMagics)

This is a small piece to be attached to the back of a desk. It can hold 3 cords, and keeps them from falling behind the desk when they're not being used. The ring diameters are custom for my cords (ethernet, vga, and audio) but they may work for you or you may be able to adjust the diameters to suit your cables. It's attached with two wood screws through the cylindrical standoffs.

MakerBot Defender
CodeName - MD-B12

My Makerbot CNC aka "DemonDust" is the Queen ant, and a Queen ant produces the soldiers on the "front line". The Makerbot Defender is designed and built to protect as a soldier, just as in nature a soldier ant protects a well structured colony all working as one unstoppable force.

UPDATED PARTS - 5/10/2010
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftElbow_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftShoulderBolt_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_RightArmJointConnector_v3
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftHandJointConnector_v2

These upgraded parts solve loose joint issues and strengthens moving parts

Features :

This version is made from ABS plastic built on a heated platform.

Version #1 tank treads are hard to move, but moveable. Upgrades are being designed and will soon follow

The mounted cannon is for defense purposes only. Launching non-lethal smoke prejectiles to create smoke cover to confuse and slow invaders

Infrared camera is mount on the shoulder helping to watch over the Queen for temperture accuracy

Every soldier in nature is equipped with a strong pair of claws. These arms can move over 180 degrees front to back with claws that can be opened and held in any position. Upgrades are being designed for the next
version of arms/claws


Upgrades :

One of the best pre-designed ideas for the MakerBot Defender,it is upgradeable. The mounted cannon and Infrared camera just slide right out of the main body panel. Making it possible to design anything and replace existing features.


Scale:

Rough measurements
7"(wide) x 8.5"(deep) x 7"(tall)

This is our first public release for a laser cut design for the Mendel.
All parts are redesigned so they can be lasercutted.
This design is made from a sheet of acryl with a thickness of 4mm.

This design is the result of a master thesis at the University College of Ghent(Belgium) by me, Frederic Decru.
My promoter is Peter Van Ransbeeck, my co promotor is Kurt Van Houtte and my coaches Mathias Vermeulen and Batist Leman.

Triggered by the lecture by dr. Adrian Bowyer at our University, and by the design challenge by Bre Pettis @ Makerbot I\\\'m glad to submit this thesis to the public domain by posting it on Thingiverse.

Caution: This version is under development and so a lot of improvements can be made, feel free to post derivatives!

youtube.com/watch?v=5CjsulmxUBw

Coreldraw filles online
The manual and partlist are online

This is an alternative toolhead to allow milling with a RepMan 3d printer.
Feel free to adapt it to other printers like Mendel, Darwin and Makerbot.
It should work fine for milling 3d-objects (Skeinforge) and PCBs (visolate) or for exact drilling (drill holder attachment) and cutting (90° attachment and cutting-disc).

You need a Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment (Model 225) and a Dremel as well as an M5x95mm(or longer) screw or threaded rod for this.

Documentation: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_PCBs
Forum-Thread: bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/milling-toolhead-o-thingiverse
(I used bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/3d-model-toolhead-attachment-design-alternative-heads )

Update: I made a Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOt_yXAkMrs) of my first tests of PCB milling using this toolhead. It performed well given that I fitted a way too large milling-bit and did not tighten/block the springs holding the print-surface.
Update: Experimental Skeinforge settings for milling are documented here: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_in_3D
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=7rdkIjtuiYA

Challenge:
(Details: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=User:MarcusWolschon/Challenges )
Get 10 small mendel parts or 2 larger ones or your design printed for
adapting this RepMan Dremel milling-toolhead to fit the Mendel.

See:
objects.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_X-axis
Note that you will probably have to design a new x-carriage-lower_1off or even also a x-carriage-upper_1off due to the poor design of the Mendel x-carriage regarding mounting alternative tools that are wider then 22mm.
5 additional small or 1 large parts if you can do it so extruder and mill can be switched with 4 or less easily accessible screws.

A printed spur gear driven extruder for Mendel or Darwin.

Added 30 degree chamfers and small fillets to hoeken's design

In the spirit of Open Source Hardware, Dremelfuge is now Open Source Hardware, according to the 0.3 standard found here: freedomdefined.org/OSHW

DremelFuge is a printable rotor for centrifuging standard microcentrifuge tubes and miniprep columns. Compared to the cost of a new centrifuge (priced by a fellow Thingiversian at $500 minimum on Froogle), a Dremelfuge is incredibly cheap. It can be used for DIYbio ( diybio.org ) or for some culinary uses. It requires industry standard 1.5ml/2ml Eppendorf/Microcentrifuge tubes.

* Used with a drill at 3000 RPM, the Dremelfuge will deliver over 400g, enough to comfortably spin down Miniprep samples (proven personally). It will likely achieve acceptable results at lower speeds, too.
* Used at 10krpm, on a Rotary tool for instance, a Dremelfuge should deliver over 4400g, more than enough to spin down bacterial cells.
* At 16krpm, Dremelfuge matches commercial centrifuges.
* On a Dremel 300, a maximum speed of 33krpm equates to a force of over 50,000 times earth's gravity, which puts it into so-called "Ultracentrifuge" territory. The latest version (as printed by Shapeways) has successfully spun tubes at this speed.

To see some picures of Dremelfuge used to spin down cells, see here:
letters.cunningprojects.com/?p=85

Quick Video Intro to Dremelfuge: youtube.com/watch?v=86WnXeTZO_Y
(Update: This video hit over 1900 views! Thanks Makezine/Bre!)

A video of me using Dremelfuge practically in a tent, to extract DNA from a banana: youtube.com/watch?v=ZnyFwupk5KA

Dremelfuge is available for sale as a high-quality, robust print on Shapeways.com in two editions, each suited for up to six samples at a time: Dremelfuge Recessed Edition, to fit the cutting-tool-holder commonly found with rotary tools (5mm diameter bore), and Dremelfuge Chuck Edition, which can be quickly adapted for use in any machine with a chuck grip. They are both available here on my Shapeways shop:
shapeways.com/shops/labsfromfabs

Dremelfuge, as with any high-speed rotary tool, may cause personal harm or damage to property or persons in case of failure, and no guarantee, warranty, promise or suggestion of safety is made or offered by me (Cathal Garvey) with regard to DremelFuge.

Dremelfuge featured on Makezine:
blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/12/laboratory_centrifuge_attachment_fo.html

Please let me know if Dremelfuge is of use to you! Please upload pictures of any printed Dremelfuges in the wild! :)

== License Stuff ==
DremelFuge makes use of the Shapes.scad script kindly released by Catarina Mota, which is released under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation. Many thanks to Catarina for this great workhorse script, as well as for letting me sidestep the "Inheritence Clause" of the license.

DremelFuge itself is released under an Attribution, Sharealike License. It's already available on Shapeways, and you're entitled to print it for yourself or someone else for free if you have a printer handy. As a personal favour, don't go undercutting me on Shapeways please, unless you have a significantly better version. And don't call it "Dremelfuge" if you do.

Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here.

We are developing a 3d scanner based on parts printed from a makerbot. These files show the printed parts, put together with a logitech camera, a laser, and a mirror mounted on a galvanometer. The basic idea along with our first implementation is described here: abarry.org/stereo

We are developing the software using a microchip PIC to drive the mirror, along with software to obtain point clouds and meshlab to mesh the point cloud. There is a long way to go with the software, but at least we have some nice printed hardware to get the data. UPDATE: new scans -- we've added a screenshot of a scanned artichoke!

This is the next step in my attempt to make a Sarrus linkage based 3D printer. The idea is to have a cartesian mechanism without those long rods and bearings.

I built three of the Mark III and mounted them in a x-y arrangement as shown. They can move over a square about 105 mm wide, and someday may carry an extruder. They are driven by DC motors taken from inkjet printers. These motors are driven in a servo arrangement using quadrature optical encoders and optical strips removed from the same printers.

There are some little plastic mounts used for attaching mini servos together. They are NOT strong enough to support any weight, but they work well enough for playing with the servos. I used this assembly to test some servo control ideas, including inverse kinematics for positioning. More information available here: blog.notzero.net/2009/11/playing-with-servo-motors.html

The models were made in SketchUp. The parts in the SketchUp file are all scaled by a factor of 1000 (meters instead of mm), because SketchUp gets weird with small dimensions.

I've included a rough model of the servo motor used, which can be used to design other parts that attach to the motor. The mini servos I used are less than $4 each from DealExtreme: dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20023

The Frostruder MK2 is a radically different approach to frosting extrusion. Instead of using a motorized plunger approach such as with the Frostruder MK1 and Fab@Home paste extruders, we've switched to air power. The result is a Frostruder with excellent characteristics: nearly instantaneous start/stop capability, vastly simplified design, a high pressure capacity, and an awesome steampunk aesthetic.

The way it works is pretty simple: The frostruder is basically a syringe connected to a pressure source, typically an air compressor. There are two solenoid valves to control the pressure: a 'Pressure' and a 'Relief' valve. When the Pressure valve is on, the syringe is connected to the main pressure source and that pressure forces out whatever paste material is in the syringe. When you wish to stop the extrusion, the Pressure valve is closed, and the Relief valve is opened. This part is critical because even after the Pressure valve is closed, the syringe is still pressurized. By opening the relief valve, the pressure is released and the Frostruder stops extruding almost immediately.

The frostruder is capable of extruding nearly anything with a paste-like consistency. There are many materials to possible, from food based items to awesome engineering resins. So far, we've had success extruding the following materials:

* Frosting
* Peanut butter (creamy)
* Jelly / Jam
* Nutella
* Clay
* Silicone
* Epoxy

SSS (servo suspension system) is designed to support standard servo motors and act as a basic suspension. It is still a work in progress and has not been tested yet.

Will update results soon.

At last, the symbol of Star Trek is on Thingiverse! I created this because a friend of mine wanted to dress up as a character from Star Trek, and didn't have the appropriate gear. The clothes are pretty easy to find, but the badge isn't so simple to get a hold of... or at least it wasn't.

The stl seems to skeinforge weirdly, which probably has something to do with the way I joined the two pieces of the badge. Having printed it I can attest to the fact that it prints very well, despite the perilous overhang, which leaves plenty of room for any small electronic bits you might want to insert and try to make the badge do something cool.

Sorry for the rendered image - I haven't printed one out for myself yet.

4h40 m
136mm

This is my hack at the Utah teapot, fiddled so that it will actually print on a RepRap with no support material. I had to fill in the inside of the lid to do this, and the inside of the top of the teapot gets a bit gnarly as I increased the wall thickness there in a rather rustic manner. I also took a few liberties with the line of the spout and managed to beat the overhang problem in the end.

A simple printable tool for getting the most out of your tubes of toothpaste, lotion, etc.

At a recent trade show, I noticed an astonishing amount of beauty and cosmetic products using the same toothpaste tube-like storing containers. By the end of it, the representatives were struggling to give out samples while the tubes were taking on that all-too-familiar form. ( re-nest.com/uimages/re-nest/toothpaste.jpg )

I couldn't help but think about how I would solve this problem with a (hypothetical) makerbot.

The slot width is made to fit the largest of flattened toothpaste tubes found amongst my friends.

The front slot is drafted just a touch to ease the initial insertion of the tube, and the large circular surface is intended to get that last extra bit once the squeezer reaches the back of the nozzle.

This design uses a total of 2.7 cubic inches of material.

I grabbed this from Google Earth, which has a very nice open license and it really needs some changes to print well.

My approach with the SKP or KMZ files is to work with them in the free version of sketchup and then use my trial version of sketchup pro to export them. Because I have 8 hours of trial time on the pro and it only takes a minute to export them, that works for me.

If someone wants to create a derivative and go in and make the book go all the way down to her hip, that would help make it so that it wouldn't start printing in mid air.

I needed to put an inline switch in a mains cable. I had the switch, but no housing for it. This is such a housing.

This accommodates an 8mm diameter cable, and a switch requiring a rectangular hole that is 19mm x 13mm (which seems to be a standard size).

Use this to guide your cables with.

The little plastic clips that you run a screw through to hold a mirror on the wall.

A device for picking out of reach fruit, e.g. pears. A pair of secateurs is clamped to the end of a pipe and operated remotely by a string threaded through an eyelet by pulling on a handle. See hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2009/09/pear-shaped.html.

After having some difficulties with the Plastruder MK3 which comes with the MakerBot, I decided to try to print a better (i.e. more reliable) extruder with and for my MakerBot.

The design was inspired by the "Thermoplast Extruder Version 2.0" from the RepRap project and by photos I saw of Nophead's "Fast extruder" .

(Update: There's now a 4th part to print: InsulatorRetainer.stl)

A simple device to hang your neckties, because no matter how hard you try we all need to wear one from time to time. Similar products in stores are no longer worth the price when we have the means to print our own!

Designed to fit any standard closet rod. There is 1.2 cubic inches of volume, costing around $0.2x in material

Please let me know if you experience any problems.