http://www.thingiverse.com/eagleapex/likes Fri, 30 Jul 2010 23:50:03 +0100 FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net) en-us Copyright 2010, Thingiverse.com http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:894
This is a general bicycle handlebar mount for things like phones, GPS units, lights, bicycle computers, lasers, etc. It may need customization based on your specific device. Let me know if you need anything customized.

Features:
- 1 1/4" (32 mm) diameter handlebar hole. Note it will accommodate a wide range of handlebar sizes.
- recessed mounting screw hole
- recessed nut on bottom for 3/8" or 9 mm nut ]]> aylr Wed, 12 Aug 2009 15:57:41 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:894 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2116
Bike stem with an integrated brake lever. We machine these out of 6061 aluminum.
More info at cwandt.com/blockhead-stem-ib/ ]]> cwandt Sat, 03 Apr 2010 22:14:13 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2116 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1743
The waxuum is sort of a reverse-extruder. The idea is that a heated hollow needle is used to remove material from a block of wax in a controlled manner, analogous to conventional machining using an endmill. A vacuum pump* pulls the molten wax through the needle, after which it is deposited in a reservoir where it can be recycled. The wax part can then be used directly, or more likely it can be used as a pattern for a mold. Below is a basic overview of how the process might work in a well-developed system. See video of a simple test at youtube.com/watch?v=rnKD9oIzcnM .

1. A heated basin is filled with wax, which is then allowed to cool. This big block of wax forms the working material for our little setup.

2. A waxuum mounted where the extruder usually goes on your 3D printer carves a master pattern (including containment walls) out of the wax block.

3. Elastomer resin is poured directly into negative pattern in the wax block.

4. When the elastomer cures, it is peeled off the wax master and used as a mold to crank out large numbers of parts.

5. The wax master is remelted within its heated basin. The removed wax in the reservoir is added back. The basin is cooled, and the wax is ready to use again for a new master pattern.

--------------------
ADVANTAGES

1. The wax is melted instead of cut, so high forces are not required at the tool-tip. The low force requirement means that the XYZ positioner can be much more flexible (and cheaper and easier-to-make) than is normally required for conventional machining. Unlike conventional machining, there is no need for chip removal.

2. In many cases the surface finish on parts is better than that on filament-extruded parts, due to the smoothing effect of the hot needle moving over the wax. There are also fewer warping, delamination, and anisotropy problems.

3. You get a mold instead of a part: casting from a pattern can produce parts at a much faster rate than printing. You also have a greater choice of materials (plastics, metals, ceramics, and wax can all be cast in silicone molds).

---------------------
DISADVANTAGES

1. You get a mold instead of a part: there are several additional steps and materials, including the manual work of pouring resins. Sometimes you really want to just print your parts and go.

2. Limited geometry: unless you make multi-part molds with cores and such, you are limited to relatively simple geometry. Hollow and concave parts are difficult.

3. The waxuum is relatively unproven compared to the many filament extruder designs currently in use.

------------------------
RESULTS

The test showed it was feasible to use a tool of this design to make wax patterns. The most important thing to consider seems to be optimizing heat transfer from the needle to the wax, while minimizing heat loss due to movement of cool air through the needle. The thin-walled brass tubing is just barely acceptable for this purpose. The next version will use a material with higher thermal conductivity, such as thick-walled copper tubing. The heater should probably be located outside of the case. Possibly two heaters should be used - one for the needle and one to keep the wax molten inside the case.

------------------------
*Update March 6 2010: See this cool article on converting an aquarium pump to a vacuum pump garage-shoppe.com/wordpress/?p=109 ]]> mattmoses Sat, 06 Feb 2010 08:32:06 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1743 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570
Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here. ]]> cathalgarvey Wed, 13 Jan 2010 13:14:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1490
This basically is a dust scrubber that removes dust and other particles from the filament as it goes thru the sponges. Normally this dust could potentially clog up the extruder nozzle or break something.


Story:
After one night of printing, I discovered a large dust ball inside the extruder just before the idlerwheel. After a disassembly I found more. Apparently I had thrown the filament spool in to a really dusty area and dust got sucked to the abs.


About pictures:
At the first picture top right is the dust that gathered to the temporary scrubber while these parts were extruded. (black stuff)
Lower right is the way the sponges are placed in side the cup. (10x10x20)x4

The second photo is installation pic (it clips on to the extruder).




]]> Fido Fri, 25 Dec 2009 17:22:39 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1490 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1481
A-Mazing Box - OpenA python script to generate OpenSCAD models to generate two parts of a box that screw together and snap fit if you find your way through the maze :) ]]> wizard23 Wed, 23 Dec 2009 08:12:06 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1481 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1388
2009-12-07 22.34.48.jpgWarning: this code is pretty rough, but it works!

This project is a derivative of the code originally written by Allan Ecker, found at:

thingiverse.com/thing:747

thingiverse.com/thing:783

thingiverse.com/thing:849

Code will continue to be updated at github.com/davemenninger/Parametric-GCode

I will try to remember to re-upload the latest versions of the code here on Thingiverse as it changes. ]]> dave_menninger Sat, 05 Dec 2009 05:09:57 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1388 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1402
Just a nifty little knob I made for our TS808 effects class @hive76. Fits on most standard audio potentiometers. ]]> robot_trouble Tue, 08 Dec 2009 02:33:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1402 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1216
4h40 m
136mm ]]> januario Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:11:16 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1216 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1097
The ring I printed, and then used to propose to my girlfriend.

I printed it with black ABS, and then printed a small white cube and set it with some magic glue eagleapex left at Hive.

I drew the 2d shape in gimp, then had a friend render it in 3d using sketchup (I fail at 3D). I made some adjustments using Blender for the final print.

She said yes! Now to get our MakerBot to print with white gold. ]]> fynflood Wed, 07 Oct 2009 01:05:16 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1097 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:591
Parametrized Lego BricksWhile talking to Zach I got inspired to model lego bricks in order to create custom bricks - the ones you always wanted but thought you never could get. Well now you can!

Of course it does not snap in place as nicely as original lego bricks but it should be good enough to create the custom lego piece you always wanted. ]]> wizard23 Mon, 11 May 2009 04:44:44 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:591 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1011
This is just a standard (but rather complex) Hilbert Curve, great for making pretty patterns.

...and yes, it is one continuous path. No funny businees making the laser run amok (like my first one :-) ]]> gadgetguydk Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:54:50 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1011 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:949
Real ABSI did a little sketch with iTracer on my iPhone and printed the object with a MakerBot. Quite easy, but I had to change the 3DS-file that iTracer exported to a STL-file with Meshlab and the size of the object in Blender.

But there's still a lot of software involved:
iTracer -> Mail -> Meshlab -> Blender -> Skeinforge -> ReplicatorG

What we need now is a 3D scanner app for the iPhone! ]]> martin Sat, 29 Aug 2009 15:32:12 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:949 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:922
A simple device to hang your neckties, because no matter how hard you try we all need to wear one from time to time. Similar products in stores are no longer worth the price when we have the means to print our own!

Designed to fit any standard closet rod. There is 1.2 cubic inches of volume, costing around $0.2x in material

Please let me know if you experience any problems. ]]> Starno Sat, 22 Aug 2009 08:43:54 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:922 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:870
Owl Headphone WrapA simple Headphone Wrap made for SkullCandy Ink'd Headphones. I got the idea for this from Eagleapex. I loved the idea of having a 3d-printed headphone wrap, since I'm always shoving my headphones into my backpack in an untidy bunch.
]]> eweinhoffer Sat, 08 Aug 2009 03:03:04 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:870 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:802
This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build. ]]> mattmoses Tue, 28 Jul 2009 01:10:07 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:802 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:845
Sketchup, Inkscape, and Ponoko: A Study in CubesHi all,

I thought that SketchUp users may appreciate a plugin that makes the exporting of 3D models to 2D vector graphics a bit easier. The plugin (ruby scripts) allows the user to select SketchUp faces and export the oulines of these faces to a Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) file.

The plugin was developed to help with constructing designs for laser cutting, but I know of people who use it for CNC routing as well.

This latest version of the plugin hasn't been tested with any laser cutting yet (I'm working on some designs at the moment), but I know how Thingiverse users like to be on the bleeding edge ;-P ]]> FlightsOfIdeas Thu, 30 Jul 2009 02:34:51 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:845 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:815
Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/
]]> KevinH Tue, 21 Jul 2009 19:40:39 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:815 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:807
I made this to drive someone insane. It will not open a hellgate in your living room or anything. ]]> jpark Sun, 19 Jul 2009 06:53:48 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:807 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:784
This is a turntable for a 3dscanner. I've designed it so that it's either printable or millable. However, if you are milling then know that there is alot of wastage. It can be produced with a makerbot and all parts are withing 10x10. It requires a solarbotics gm3 motor.

I actually created this a few months ago and put it on the reprap blog, but never got around to putting it up here. Especially given zignig made and posted his on the exact same day. ]]> letsburn00 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 04:42:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:784 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:696
Lid outThis is the lid (blue part) for the aeroponic garden. Includes 6 holes for seed pods ( thingiverse.com/thing:695 ), a hole for the airline tubing, and a 1" hole for adding water. Cut out of 1/8 or 1/4 inch acrylic.

Details of my DIY aeroponics project can be found on kellbot.com ]]> kellbot Thu, 11 Jun 2009 21:03:27 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:696 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140
SANY1170ASUS Eee PC 901 laser etch with cool tool icons ]]> ptorrone Fri, 21 Nov 2008 22:20:40 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:759
While atttending the makerbot demonstration/workshop in Philadelphia a couple of weeks ago, is saw the OWL WRAP EarPhone Caddy and was delighted by it. I asked Zach to print one for me and have been using it and showing it to anyone interested.

I was wondering how to get the word out about the Makerbot machine and I thought that having a functional Thingy made by the machine; to hand out as a MakerBot business card would be nice, so I present the MakerBot Earphone Caddy; mach 1, mod 0, for immediate development. Some of the things I built into this model are: (hopefully) 1) machine friendliness, using the machine's attributes in the development of the part. If you print it standing up from the flat at the bottom I am guessing that the machine will handle the gradual overhangs ok. and 2) The advertising text (Makerbot your idea) is made very shallow in the hopes that it will take advantage of the way the machine layers the plastic and be readable: kind of like raised lettering and. 3) You can print a dozen of them at a time if you stand them up like dominoes.

Some issues to be fine tuned prior to putting this thingy into production are: 1) The the head phones need to easily pop in and out of their holes during retrieval and wrap up and stay put while in storage. I find that the way I wrap the wire helps to keep my OWL WRAP's phones in place while in my pocket but it would be nice to have that worked out more clearly in future iterations. 2) The rectangular hole for the jack should be ambidextrous so the jack can slip under the wrapped wires into the hole's depression in a 'tight fit' sort of way, but not through it. 3) The text could be adjusted to be as clear as possible (I need to see a printed sample print to think thru that one), and 4) The vertical build of the part should be supportive of the machine's building technique, but again the sample will speak to that.

I am using SolidWorks to produce the model and I am interested in helping to develop it into a cool little way to get the word out about this amazing price breakthrough into the world of rapid prototyping. The fact that you can print you idea(s) on a machine that costs less than $1,000.00 is going to bring RP technology into ubiquity.

If anyone can print this with a MakerBot and send me a copy I'll be happy inspect it, use it, refine it, and try again until we get it right.

P.S. this idea may work well with other RP machines, but my intention is to refine it for MakerBot because The MakerBot is the first machine to get below the $1,000.00 price mark. I think the personality of the builds of this machine are beautiful and I don't intend for this prototype to become some slick marketing tool. Having the finished part be a real prototype built on the machine that it represents is just too zen to forego.

Chas.
chascolburn.com
chascolburn@mac.com
just ask for address if you are going to send one.
]]> Chasiboy Tue, 30 Jun 2009 22:53:09 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:759 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:413
Generated Screwable Boxes - OpenedThis is parametrized Box model. It can be adaped to your wishes by changing the parameters like height, diameter, screwing angle, grip height, and curve parameters. In case you just want a screwable jewellery box I included 3 versions of the box as stl files.
]]> wizard23 Sat, 04 Apr 2009 18:46:30 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:413 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:345
60 Days of .:oomlout:. PageviewsA quick little project where each length of wire represents one days worth of page views.

For all the details visit oomlout.com/blog ]]> oomlout Fri, 06 Mar 2009 02:36:36 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:345