A plastic paperclip, simple and clean. You can also substract or add a word (like a short name) or logo at the middle part for a more personal clip.

I lost it and I couldn't buy a replacement, so I bought a 3D printer and I built my own.
I added a hole to accomodate a screw for the camera.

This upgrade to the ancestor also was resized to fit the SLR size gorilla tripod.

This device hangs from the top of your iPad to increase the speaker's volume. It is not a cone shaped megaphone like its forebearers. Rather, it is just curved to bounce most of the sound to the front of the iPad. The sound volume and quality increase are noticeable.

It is a first attempt and I'm sure the Thingiverse community can make it much better.

The photo also shows the "Simple iPad Stand -3D" (thing:4020) by eagleapex in use.

Based on Sandy Noble's Polargraph: polargraph.co.uk

This is the first pass at a printable gondola for a Polargraph. It works, but it could use some tweaks.

Anyone looking to improve it: the lower section arms are a little thin, and the spot for the captive nut isn't exactly sized right. I'd also beef up the upper chain mounts, as there's not much plastic outside the hole.

The motor brackets and pulleys I'm using can be found here: thingiverse.com/thing:12403

Lots more photos of the whole process here: flickr.com/photos/jabella/sets/72157627888557352/

This cover snaps on to shield the terminals on the large switching power supplies (anyone know a classification name for the this PS case type?)

The open terminals on these power supplies are very dangerous. Print out a cover and snap it on so you don't turn into a crispy tart.

Licensing
-Parts and files: GPLv3
-Images: CC BY SA

A friend needed a quick release plate compatible with his tripod to fix it.
It was a tight but really nice fit :)

There's been a lot of argument about weapons on Thingiverse lately. Most of it has been folks talking past each other. Can't we all just get along?

So here's a simple flower that will fit in the barrel of your AK-5000 or whatever. Print one out and give it to your local gun collector, national guardsman, armed gangster, or high seas pirate. After all, everyone needs a flower once in a while.

(The flower is from Renosis' super-fun push-puppet.)

Much has been said about the automated build platform currently distributed with the Makerbot Thing-o-matic. I like it, but frankly, it doesn't work out of the box nearly as well as the rest of the bot. My acrylic ABP v2 sides both cracked within minutes of installation, so I've been searching for a solution ever since.

This is DEFINITELY a work in progress, but I'm currently using two of them as ToM parts :) I basically use it as an elevated HBP while I work on fixing the damn thing to be a proper ABP.

I altered the cutout to match profile for an iPad 2 using technical drawings provided by Apple for case manufacturers. It seems to fit pretty well.

Since I have trouble using my hands and all the medicines I take for my MS everyday I need to get them down with applesauce. Well we get the single serving cups and getting that lid off is hard for me to do, so I came up with this foil lid opener. Now I have no problems getting those lids off. I got the idea off the old style Spam cans that had that key attached to the lid and thought; hey I can print that out, so I designed this one.

Hope you all like it and if you do please Flatter me so I can try to pay for my meds every month. If not that's OK too.

Enjoy,
Jax

Update: I had just uploaded a longer key from 60mm to 80mm this key works much better than the 60mm one does. If there are any changes you all would like me to do please let me know and I'll get them done.

Post with working links on my blog: eclecti.cc/bytes/reprap-controlled-time-lapse-photography

YouTube example videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=T3j5oXpqWCk
youtube.com/watch?v=GFZXgxcfdHQ

While capturing the time-lapse last week, John and I ran into two irritating issues. The first is that the moving platform causes the object being printed to come in and out of the focal plane of the camera and makes for a jarring video. The second is that because the interval between photos is constant, some large and slow layers will have multiple shots taken while several consecutive quick layers can be skipped entirely. The solution to both of these is to dynamically remote trigger the camera from the printer.

I wrote a Skeinforge photograph plugin that inserts a new G-code command, M240, which tells the printer to trigger a photograph. The module offers three modes. End of Layer, as demonstrated by Yoda below, is the simplest. It takes one picture at the start of the first layer and then another at the end of each layer of the print, resolving only the second of the aforementioned issues. Corner of Layer takes a picture at the minimum Y,X of each layer. Least Change between Layers tries to take shots that are as close as possible to each other from layer to layer. I had the most visually interesting results with the last setting, as shown in the Flower print above. The module can be downloaded from github, and installation instructions are included within its text.

The other half of the control scheme is triggering the camera from the RepRap. Since I didn’t want to risk coupling my T2i directly to the printer, I went for emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote, which has been thoroughly reverse engineered. The hardware is simply an 850nm infrared LED in series with a 180 ohm resistor connected to one of the I/O pins on the Arduino Mega. I chose pin 23 because I could solder to it without pulling my RAMPS board off. The software side is equally simple. For this, I forked the excellent Sprinter firmware to respond to M240 and send the correct pulse over the IR LED. My fork is on github, but the diff that adds M240 support is the interesting bit.

This is arkatipe's watering spout (rose), with eagleapex's bottle threads thingiverse.com/thing:10489 subtracted from it.

BonsaiBrain was onto something when he designed the car wash mop! That screw is used in a lot of other things as well. Mops, floor sponges, paint rollers, squeegees, drywall sanders, brooms, etc. Seems to be universal in janitorial supplies. These files are basic Male/Female parts that could be adapted to whatever configuration you need. I've also included two examples that I have used. One is a Female version with a flange to screw onto whatever you need to, the other is an adapter I designed to attach a feather duster to an extendable painter's pole so that I could dust a ceiling fan.

This is the Thing page for the Screw Library I am working on. I could be talked into releasing it as Public Domain, but have left it as CC-BY-SA for now, at least until it's fully stabilized.

The latest code is available on GitHub here:

github.com/syvwlch/Thingiverse-Projects/tree/master/Threaded%20Library

Currently, the library allows you to create a threaded rod with a trapezoidal profile, like the Acme or metric lead screws that are so common in CNC machines.

The trapezoidThread module creates the rod along Z, centered in X and Y, but not in Z. Same logic as cylinders with center=false.

The parameters are the following:

length
// axial length of the threaded rod
// used to calculate how many turns to create
// the rod is NOT trimmed to this length!!!

pitch
// axial distance from crest to crest

pitchRadius
// radial distance from center to mid-profile

threadHeightToPitch
// ratio between profile height and pitch
// default value is 0.5

profileRatio
// ratio between raised profile and pitch
// default value is 0.5

threadAngle
// angle between the two faces of the thread, in degrees
// std value for Acme is 29 or for metric lead screw is 30
// default value is 30

RH
// true if thread winds clockwise along shaft
// i.e.follows the Right Hand Rule
// default value is true

clearance
// radial clearance, normalized to thread height
// default value is 0.1

backlash
// axial clearance, normalized to pitch
// default value is 0.1

stepsPerTurn
// number of facets to create per turn
// default value is 24

You can create a triangular profile thread by setting profileRatio to zero, but that is cumbersome. I will create a separate module for that and add it to this page, later.

UPDATE:

I have added a trapezoidThreadNegativeSpace module to create a negative space of a thread with the proper clearances to screw on, as long as you give it the same parameters. It can add two chamfered holes at the entries. It takes the following parameters on top of the ones needed for trapezoidThread:

length
// thickness of the part to be drilled out by this object

countersunk
// depth of the 45 degree chamfers, normalized to pitch
// default value is zero, no chamfer

I have also added a trapezoidNut module which uses the above negative space module to create a hexagonal lead nut with the right clearances to screw onto any thread that shares the same parameters. It takes the following additional parameters:

radius
// outer radius of the nut

This is a complete shoulder rig for DSLR Cams printed on a Makerbot. After spending much time in development and printing out several tests, time has come to share this great thing to you :)

Special Features

Mount-Plate:
The mounting system is compatible with my Velbon DV 7000 Tripod. So i can switch fast beween the tripod and my new shoulder rig.

Optical Viewfinder:
For sunny days!

Follow Focus:
I tried out geared ones and also tried to develop some complicate solutions (ff by turning the grip e.g.) but the best way to Follow Focus was a ring with a simple cord! So you can leave your hands on the grips the whole time.

All plastic parts were printed on a Makerbot Cupcake CNC Ultimate, ABS Material with Heated Build Platform.

Every admins favourite undercover tool. The ban hammer is too obvious to carry around. :)

This is an update to my Accessible Wade's Extruder.

The idler is now hinged using an M3 screw.
I have also added support for the central part of the 608 idler so that there is no need to use washers to space the bearing away from the plastic.

I have been using this design for a while now and love it.

Changing filament is a simple as compressing the spring then whipping out the old filament and poking the new one in.

UPDATE: 6 Aug 2011 - Add arcol (cory75 thing:10532) and wildseyed hotend mount options. Im not overly happy with the asymmetry of the arcol option.

this is a connector design for assembling a 2V geodesic dome structure. based off the wizardry of c60's original Dome Connector, we've improved the design by shaping the hexagonal connectors like hexagons, and the pentagonal ones like pentagons — making it much easier to visually differentiate between the two different connector types. additionally, we've added pairing notches above the 16° B-length struts on both connector shapes, to help accelerate assembly.

Yes, you read that right. When you take a bucket 'o Octopi, Octopodes, and a torus... the question everyone wants to know is, Will It Blend?

Blender.org to the rescue.

This bona-fide Identified Flying Object (IFO) has a clever little octopus clutching on for dear life. He knows the fastest way over yonder is when you hurl him through the air.

Anyone that can add a good, printable scarf and aviators to the original file will get $5 from me.

This things will keep your RAMPS from flopping around until you get a proper enclosure printed. It clamps onto the bottom threaded rod of the frame and will fit 5/16" or m8. It also includes two little brackets for mounting a fan above the board to keep your pololus cool.

Here is a printable version of April Winchell's "Whimsicle F*ckery" necklace as seen on Regretsy. For more info, read below.

You ever heard of Regretsy.com? If you haven't , I suggest going there (no worries, it's not dirty). Basic premise, It showcases the most hideously awful things on the website Etsy.com. (a site where people sell handmade crafts or vintage things). Regretsy is owned and is maintained by April Winchell (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/April_Winchell). One of the categories under which she files certain awful creations is titled "Whimsicle F*ckery" minus the asterisk. Well, She ordered a laser-cut necklace of the phrase and needless to say, it's awesome. So here is a printable version of that necklace pendant. Makes a great gift!

Adjustable spool to be able to load 1lb filament from the bag without having to wind on to a fixed spool.

This is my take on a smaller reprapable version of the Ultimaker. I was going to wait until I had it 100% working but there have been a few gantry systems posted and I wanted to get it out there. Here's a list of the current inspirations, I'll add links later: Ultimaker, brutestruder, bowden cable, mendel bearing setup and Makerbot.

The printer's external dimensions are currently 8.5inx8.5inx10in and the build area is 100x100x175mm.

The main reason I started working on this is most printer designs that have been coming recently have been getting larger in footprint. I want something that'll easily and conveniently fit on my desk, I also have no problem with the 100mm square cupcake build envelope.

Where I'm at: I have had problems with friction in the gantry and am in the process of redesigning all of the moving components. I would upload files, but I just trashed them all as not good enough. So, you'll have to wait until they are good enough. That being said the printer in the photos can easily do around 30mm/s. I just want better.

Here's a couple answers to questions that I know I'm going to get:

Yes, all of the parts fit on a makerbot.

Yes, there are diagonal supports that are not in the photo.

No, it's not a fab at home derivative, I haven't seen the workings of that until yesterday. (Has anyone else actually read the Stratasys patent from 1992?)

I attached an edrawing if people want to look at it. I'll post an stl of the full assembly later.
edrawingsviewer.com/index.html

Yes, that's a Makergear compact plastruder head. It's just so small, it fits perfectly. The new version will have two heads whose nozzle tips will be 18mm apart.


About timeframe, looking back on the last 3 months, I've (spent way too much time screwing around with the Makerbot) wife's quote. Now I have to get some real work done since screwing around on the makerbot doesn't pay the bills. I would expect something in a couple weeks.

Update: Here's a link to a video showing the new center gantry unit for the MiniMaker.
flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/5659332598/in/photostream

Update: Working on minimaker2 right now, here's a video of the X-Y gantry running a calibration cube at 400mm/s!: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/6550391991/in/photostream

A map of Pennsylvania with the 14th Congressional District marked with a star

I was sitting around this morning and pondering the implications of modern computer logic, when it suddenly struck me that all modern logic systems are using 1s and 0s for signaling. Sure, we all know this, but did you ever really think about what it MEANS?

It's a huge inefficiency! So I pulled out a pair of tweezers, a very strong magnifying glass, and some leftover halfsies I had from going out to lunch with friends.

By using a steady hand, I was able to replace all the 1s in my Arduino with .5s, thus doubling it's speed and efficiency! Now my printer thinks so fast it hardly has time to print anymore; I assume it's solving some deep mysteries and will eventually reveal the meaning of Life to me through interpretive printing.

This type of joint is used in a gate of OOSAKA castle in Japan.
It seems to a puzzle. If you do not have 3D printers, please challenge to make a papercraft of this object which is uploaded by PDF file.

This is a direct drive extruder mechanism that fits with the hotend and dinos of a MK5-6. I wanted to move to a stepper drive extruder but didn't want to wait three weeks for makerbot to ship their new beefy nema 17. I also had a lot of issues with the delrin plunger.

I liked the idea of a ball bearing to provide the pressure between the filament and the drive wheel as in a wade's but didn't like the 4 bolts to adjust to change filament.

My other design goals were to leave everything as accessible as possible and provide some mechanical advantage where it makes sense. The worm grove in the drive gear is made very close to the face of the motor while the motor shaft ball bearing rides at the end of the motor shaft while having the shaft pass completely through it. I also increased the length of the teflon guide tube to come to right below the drive wheel.

The pivoting arm that applies pressure to the filament forcing it against the drive gear allows one screw and spring pair to take the job of four. It also means that the screw can be backed off completely and the arm rotated out of the way to provide access without having to be completely removed. The relative positions of the bearing and tensioning screw on the arm give something like a 2:1 advantage of filament pinch strength vs spring force.

I also included a hat that accepts a piece of sponge or similar to remove dust from the filament as it is being drawn into the extruder. The hat as well can pivot out of the way and has a sloping bottom to make it simpler to feed new filament through.

The sizing for everything is imperial in this case but I can make other versions is people have specific requests, I'll also include the source files.

This is an attempt to combine various aspects of Adrian's and Wade's extruder drivers. Specifically, It keeps Adrian's extruder clamping system, uses a prime number of teeth for good wear characteristics but uses Wade's hobbed bolt to do the driving.

As the name suggests, the design uses Herringbone gears. This ensures that backlash is substantially reduced, which should result in the extruder requiring slightly less reverse, but more importantly run quieter. The design of the drive gear is somewhat experimental. As with other gears, this uses a grub screw to secure the gear to the motor shaft. However, on this design the hole goes through the root of one of the teeth. This takes up less space, and also lets you adjust the position of the gear without taking the motor off. However, it is quite intricate. Many people have managed it, but your printer needs to be running well to do it.

This is a modified Prusa Mendel X Carriage that will fit the standard Mendel X axis. It uses PLA bushings instead of the standard bearings.

The main difference is that it will clamp to the Mendel drive belt using the 2 clamps provided in the design.

A secondary difference is that it will hold the double-Wade seen in the background of the photo (details coming soon).

Despite what you see in the spy movies, what people call a "silencer" can't really be done in any size smaller than a beer bottle. Printed on normal 3D printers, this is a sound moderator: It won't eliminate the sound of an airgun firing, but will cut out the sharp "crack" that makes birds fly off and wives complain from the study.

It works by allowing the excess gas from the barrel to expand slowly in a series of chambers, shown in the cutaway image. If you use this with a firearm you will probably melt it.