I always dreamed about a compact-yet-elegant joystick for playing quick games on my computer - tetris, Packman, Mario, etc'..

I've made this simple keyboard joystick -
print it on your 3d printer --> stick it on your keyboard --> Play!

Have you ever wanted a Gothic Cathedral of your very own?

Are you intimidated by the centuries long construction schedule, and the punishing job requirements of being a European Bishop during the Dark Ages?

Then We Have a Thing For YOU!

The Gothic Cathedral Play Set!

LET'S TRAP THAT MOUSE! I DESIGNED THIS MODEL SO IT CAN BE BUILT ON ANY 3D PRINTER. NO OVERHANGS, JUST PRINT ALL 3 PARTS AND GO! I DO NOT HAVE A 3D PRINTER SO IF YOU ( YES YOU) CAN PRINT THIS ITEM, I WILL SPLIT THE WINNINGS WITH YOU! HOW AMAZING IS THAT, RAPID PROTOTYPING AT IT FINEST! LETS GET THAT MOUSE!!!

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU BUILD THIS. I WANT FEEDBACK TO MAKE THIS TRAP BETTER! TESTED IT IN SOLIDWORKS AND SHOULD WORK GREAT! ANY OTHER QUESTIONS JUST ASK!
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UPDATES:
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3/24/2010 IT WORKS!!!!!! Check out my new youtube video youtube.com/watch?v=7E8CZd66lLI
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3-9-2010: Check out the Tilt-N-Trap in action!

youtube.com/watch?v=PfoC_vY3pdQ

3-4-2010: Thanks to erickphd and his students at Penn. College of Technology we have some modifications to this model. If you have already printed this model, do not attach the Counterweight rail to the Base And tape 2 Quarter to the right side of the Tilt-N-Trap.

ErickPHD Said

"Testing shows a reasonably reliable trigger at 27 grams but the average mouse is 10-25g so my class thought that it needed to be a bit more sensitive"

ADD two quarters and removing the Counter weight rail should give a More sensitive Design. Check out the picture to see the modified design

03-04-2010 : First Model has been printed! Check it out @ picasaweb.google.com/EricAlbertPhD/MousetrapBuild?feat=directlink

03-03-2010 : 3D Has just been added to 3d Content Central. If you go to this website in internet explorer (Will not Work in firefox :-( ) you can see a 3D you can SPIN AROUND AND ZOOM IN & OUT. Check it out

3dcontentcentral.com/parts/download-Part.aspx?id=187226&catalogid=171

03-02-2010 : erickphd is going to make a model on 03-03-2010. More information coming soon. Printing on Dimension uPrint machine

It's replacement Gottlieb C13150 pinball flipper! This is useful for people who need to replace their busted Gottlieb C13150 pinball flippers.

Actually it is a multipurpose holder. It made primary for a Dremel to mill my bed flat. But even a pen can be attached ot it.

More details at my blog: blog.arcol.hu/?p=629

This is an alternative toolhead to allow milling with a RepMan 3d printer.
Feel free to adapt it to other printers like Mendel, Darwin and Makerbot.
It should work fine for milling 3d-objects (Skeinforge) and PCBs (visolate) or for exact drilling (drill holder attachment) and cutting (90° attachment and cutting-disc).

You need a Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment (Model 225) and a Dremel as well as an M5x95mm(or longer) screw or threaded rod for this.

Documentation: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_PCBs
Forum-Thread: bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/milling-toolhead-o-thingiverse
(I used bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/3d-model-toolhead-attachment-design-alternative-heads )

Update: I made a Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOt_yXAkMrs) of my first tests of PCB milling using this toolhead. It performed well given that I fitted a way too large milling-bit and did not tighten/block the springs holding the print-surface.
Update: Experimental Skeinforge settings for milling are documented here: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_in_3D
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=7rdkIjtuiYA

Challenge:
(Details: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=User:MarcusWolschon/Challenges )
Get 10 small mendel parts or 2 larger ones or your design printed for
adapting this RepMan Dremel milling-toolhead to fit the Mendel.

See:
objects.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_X-axis
Note that you will probably have to design a new x-carriage-lower_1off or even also a x-carriage-upper_1off due to the poor design of the Mendel x-carriage regarding mounting alternative tools that are wider then 22mm.
5 additional small or 1 large parts if you can do it so extruder and mill can be switched with 4 or less easily accessible screws.

We needed a shower drain with a height of about 3 cm and a vertical outlet channel which was difficult to find so I decided to print one.

This is a Peristaltic Pump designed in Sketchup. I have tried to design it with an eye towards printing on a MakerBot, but do not own one so I cannot test at this time.

It should accept 3/4 inch hose with a 1/8 inch wall thickness.

A rice mold for making Mario themed rice balls. I created these for use in bento boxes, which I've been blogging here: kellbot.com/category/bento

These each use a little less than a 1/4 cup (dry) Japanese sushi rice.

A modified version of this could be done on a Makerbot or 3D printer, if anyone wants to attempt it.

Made obsolete by thingiverse.com/thing:2341

Use for separating cap from beer bottle (non-twistoff).

Works on the same principle as banging the bottle against a counter.

Does not require the addition of any other parts (such as a penny as Zach originally suggested).

Next version will have the handle slot deleted/fixed since it does not print correctly.

Currently is in beta state, has opened a bottle for me, but may not work for you. Please submit photos of the bottles it did not work on so I can improve the design.

Current GCode file is for 4032D PLA, but may work for ABS. Its also raft-less since Ive found PLA prints better without one.

Note: If you are making your own GCode for this, make sure you use at least 50% infill as anything less than that may make the part too weak to open the beer.

So far I have been able to open 3 bottles with one made out of PLA before failure. Let me know how different materials fair for you.

Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here.

Three rotating concentric rings.

I've always been a last minute Christmas shopper and it has usually worked out. This year I had a request to get a Connect Four game, but I couldn't find it in stock anywhere. So I decided to make my own version of it.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connect_four

After working like one of Santa's Elfs for a few hours (minus the green tights) I had beautiful Connect Four style game.

flickr.com/photos/spikenzie/sets/72157623097248216/

An automated controller for home brewing, based on the Sanguino. I didn't design this - I just built it, but thought it would be an interesting addition :)

Both the hardware and software designs are open source. Kits and board schematics can be found at the homepage.

Homepage is brewtroller.com

[THIS IS AN IMPOSSIBLE PRINT]

A makerbot mini! complete with X and Y stages and the extruder!

:D

I have also uploaded the original google sketchup design for the top.

sadly i am still having issues with my makerbot, and printing long prints is difficult - need to adjust settings! but i managed to print the top and half the bottom before feeding stopped.

No Universe can go without the King of Polygon! Phooky beat me by uploading a printable Utah but useless for teadrinking. Took me a few hours of modeling to get a teaproof Utah, proper solid model, no holes, manifold. Wall thickness is ±3 mm and I added a rim for the lid to rest on. The model is based on the 3ds primitive since I was never able to import the original data (thanks Phooky for explaining). So fire up your machine and print an analog Utah!

Howdy. I know you all yearn to wear something sweet, metal, and culled from the oceanic depths of the oilpunk masterpiece Bioshock. This is your brass opportunity as I've converted its officially kickass logo into a 3d file for which to use, abuse, and hold up pants. It's a belt buckle. The versions I've done are in bronze from a cnc cut wax model (carved with a 1/8in 15deg inc taper profile tool) and a Zcorp 3dprint. It's pretty fine on the detail end of things so you might want to scale up if you're gonna go for a FDM.

I also have to thank the lovely and talented Meredeth Wrinkle of TechShop fame for photographing the Zcorp version of this project and being an essential supporter. I couldn't be holding this lovely little trinket without her constant support.

This is a simple two part compass for drawing circles, measuring, and navigating the open seas old timey pirate style.

Parts:
- 2 copies of the compass half
- 2 thumscrews
- 2 washers, 1 wingnut and bolt

I was inspired by zignig's Printable Desk Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:683 . I used hex nuts instead of square nuts because hex nuts are more common. All the parts are easily available at hardware stores and hobby shops. The total cost is about $4.50 for this clamp compared to $50 ones. It is used for holding circuit boards at comfortable angles, hobby modeling, and holding stuff. Enjoy.


The picture of all parts does not show two nuts that I had already hammered in but I did not want to take them out. Also it does not show 20mm brass tubing as I already hammered some of them in.

A practical flower pot shaped accessory! Hold toothbrushes, pencils, scissors, use as an ashtray, or come up with your own unique function. There is about 11 cubic in. of volume; based on what other people have posted for cost that should be around $3.xx in material.

This is a 2 piece design, allowing the user to unscrew the top and clean or get access to the insides with a simple 1/4 turn. The connection was influenced by Wizard23's idea for a Screw-able jewelry box ( thingiverse.com/thing:413 ), which I was able to see in person and it works beautifully. Be careful with the top because there is an extra mechanical advantage since the top is wider, so it should take less force to unscrew.

I dont have a makerbot, so I designed this conservatively. However, I took a couple printing risks with the details at the very bottom and very top. I think it should print based on my experience with other 3d printers, so I am very excited to see the Thingiverse community bring it to life.

Please send me your feedback!

I will update the files if there are reports of problems or someone wants a specific change.

Ladies and Gents! Meet the bull! For the Air Softer. This is designed to snugly fit onto a HFC "M190 Special Force" airsoft pistol.
The M190 has a simple rail below the barrel. This component will slide on, and lock in place. This is designed to hold 'laser pointers' with an average width 17mm or flash light with similar dimensions.

full details, video, etc @
plebiandesign.com/store.html

It's a radiation shield for a toaster that leaves a shroud of turin-style jesus image on every slice of toast. In short, it's a miracle that is well within your reach.

A little mushroom guy I modeled in Maya based on... hmm... can't quite remember where I've seen this guy before. I think it rhymes with "Fooper Zario Smothers"...

This is an omnidirectional wheel. If you know what this is, you know that they're a real pain to find, and expensive when found. They're expensive because it's a niche item, not because it's terribly complicated or hard to produce -- an excellent candidate for home replication.

Unlike commercial omniwheels, this comes with a Futaba-style servo mount already in place -- it's designed to be screwed directly to the servo. If this isn't your style, replace the object named "Servo Collar" in the Blender file with the mount of your choice.

v1.1 Update: Based on input from Simon Kirkby, I've enlarged the centers of the roller wheels and changed the axle mounts, which no longer need drilling.

Traditional (Staunton-style) chess set. The knight is a draft piece that I hope to revisit -- getting a recognizable horse-bust without exceeding the maximum overhang angles is hard.

Please note: my printer isn't here yet, so while I have sliced these models and inspected the tool paths that result, I haven't verified that they print properly on actual hardware. I would love feedback from any chess fans with printers! :-)

The first of a series of molds to be made with a makerbot to make chocolate polyhedra. Modified to lay down so there are no overhangs during build. Makes an Icosahedron 3 cm from corner to corner.

I designed this as a component for a piece that I'm not ready to reveal the whole story of yet.

This portion of the project contains an outlet, a dimmer switch, and a servo (and for now: a dirty rubber band). The servo operates the dimmer, which in turn controls the amount of current going through one of the outlet's two sockets. (The other one delivers consistent power to the micro-controller / servo via a wall wart.) This is a really nice way to control an outlet...because in all truth, full source voltage is scary, scary stuff.

This 43" tall, 46" square dining table assembles with no hardware or glue. It is incredibly sturdy.

The table is square because it promotes better community with no one placed at the head of the table and everyone equidistant, allowing for better conversation.

The table takes 2 4"X8" sheets of 18mm plywood. Most cabinet grade plywood from Home Depot is 18mm and inexpensive. The one in my home is made from high grade birch ply.

Please check out jeffreymatthias.com to see some of my other work.

Someday, I will alter the design to allow for an expanding top to accommodate 8 people.

I've added a photo of it in our home for an idea of how big it is.

LogiBloks is a board game to help 6-8th graders learn formal logic. The physical design of the game pieces allows children to learn formal logic and deductive reasoning without barriers of symbolic representation and syntax found in traditional formal logic curricula for older students.


LogiBloks allow children to create propositions relevant to their own lives (as opposed to working with abstract variables). The blocks will provide a tool for distributed cognition, enabling students to both construct and deconstruct complex ideas and arguments via simple manipulation.


Designed by Rodolphe Courtier, Tom Nguyen and Andy Russell

Articulated modules for building modular robots. It is the repraped version of the Y1 modules that I have created for my PhD.
iearobotics.com/personal/juan/doctorado/Modulos-Y1/modulos-y1.html
Version 1.0 is the first one. It works and it is 3D printable, but the design should be improved in order to obtain a better printing quality.

UPDATE: 09/Nov/2011
A new version has been released: thingiverse.com/thing:13442