Use this for nuts or small sweets - or use it in the garden for birdseeds ;-)

This is an iris mechanism built into a business card sized card. For simplicity and to help keep the thickness low it only has 3 leafs. This particular design does not scale well to more leafs unless it is made much larger. The initial design did have 4 leafs and is built in a way that would allow it to scale to a different number of leafs more easily. If anyone is interested I could upload that as well.

This is an iris mechanism built into a greeting card sized card (5" x 7"). For simplicity and to help keep the thickness low it only has 3 leafs. This particular design does not scale well to more leafs unless it is made much larger. The initial design did have 4 leafs and is built in a way that would allow it to scale to a different number of leafs more easily. If anyone is interested I could upload that as well.

This card has slots in the back that allow you to stick a 2" x 3" photo in the back and reveal it when the iris is opened.

I have this setup for 8.5" x 11" sheets, but if you have a bigger sheet you can combine the two files.

Just a couple of square gears and a frame to hold them more of a curiosity than useful thing.

I needed a bit bigger wine rack so I designed this little 10 or 11 bottle wine rack which does the job nicely. I made it out of 3mm MDF, but it would look better in a nicer material.

I'll put up some better pics once I make a new one under the laser cutter group on sharemake.com .

If you make one please post a pic and a comment. I would love to see one in Perspex!

I just built and installed a heated build platform on my Makerbot. The cables which connect the platform to the extruder controller were flopping around the Z axis belt on top of the 'Bot. This simple part mounts on top of the 'Bot and keeps the cables out of harms way (hopefully).

New design contest. All submissions need to use bearings in some way to enable the printable side of the submission to do something cool/neat/funny/novel.

So the last contest that required magnets didn't receive much attention and was poorly timed (ended on a holiday weekend). I'm supplying more time and money for this one so hopefully there will be a bigger turn out. I would like to do more of these contests but will probably lose interest if there are too few entries.

Fido, if you are reading this check your email so I can get you the money from the last contest.

Thanks to tmophoto ($15) and Bo L. ($50) for helping up the prize money.

It is printed as a whole.

A simple conveyor belt build platform for the MakerBot. It enables the MakerBot to do multiple prints without user intervention.

This is an initial prototype that does not support a heated build platform. I intend to add HBP support at a later time. I'm also still playing with conveyor belt materials. I've started with some Duralar I picked up for an art supply store. It has held up ok so far but more experimentation is required.

The intent here is to get the design out so people can play with it.

This is a human mandible (lower jaw bone). It was created from a CT scan available online that had a total of 460 slices. The program I generated the .stl in is called Slicer 3D, which is opensource. I printed it out on my dimension sst 1200es and it looks great. Once I get my camera working I will upload some real pictures.

'Welcome To Finland' Laptop Stand

Can also be used for books, iPad etc.

Flat pattern file is Ponoko ready Inkscape SVG in Ponoko P2 size format to cut two.

Add engraving or cutouts to the cross beam for personalisation.

Please leave a comment on madox.net/blog/2010/07/11/yippee-1-wtf-laptop-stand/ if you like it :)

This is a wall mountable and VESA compatible wall mount for the Apple iPad and iPad 3G.

I'd LOVE to see your versions. I have cut the Walet out of bamboo (Plyboo), birch plywood, and Corian already and it looks beautiful in all kinds of materials. I think an acrylic one would be really cool.

Cap for Nikon lenses

I compiled this file to show the back surface of an iPod Touch (first generation, I believe) to allow easy setup for engraving artwork onto a device.

Yet another overwhelming silly weapon-wannabe. These banana nunchucks let you bring your favorite carb/proteins to the gym while flexing biceps at your fellow Kickboxercisers.

Please note that these Banana Nunchucks work better with straighter* bananas.

*non-gender, -as-a-ruler

This was inspired by a TED video by Tom Wujec. See it here: ted.com/talks/lang/eng/tom_wujec_demos_the_13th_century_astrolabe.html I spent some time drawing this in Corel and used a variety of sources for copying the lines. The electric astrolabe from here; astrolabes.org/electric.htm was an excellent source and star fields can be printed for any location. Thanks to James Morrison for that. Another good source is from Daniel Rislove here: uwsp.edu/physastr/rislove/astrolabe/resource.htm You can print a paper version to test it. You can download a program for creating sundials and astrolabes ( they cost ) here: pagesperso-orange.fr/blateyron/sundials/shadowspro/
Since I currently live in Peru I was interested in creating an Astrolabe for Southern hemispheres, they work in reverse so I needed to create a different outer ring and rete. I have included parts for both hemispheres. The instrument is probably not very accurate as I used images as a starting point then drew over them using the line tool. It was easy to create the outer ring division in Corel accurately but the hemisphere lines in the centre were more difficult. If anyone knows a way of doing these mathematically for any longitude please let me know. Next step is to have a go at making this with a bronze plate using our Roland EGX 350.

This is a small piece to be attached to the back of a desk. It can hold 3 cords, and keeps them from falling behind the desk when they're not being used. The ring diameters are custom for my cords (ethernet, vga, and audio) but they may work for you or you may be able to adjust the diameters to suit your cables. It's attached with two wood screws through the cylindrical standoffs.

A product of my quest to find the most efficient way to cut cookies and minimizing the amount of remaining cookie dough. My attempts have failed thus far because cookies expand in the oven. (Expansion = good for cookies but bad for Escher-like designs)

A rebuild version of the Plywood Crate made by Joris van Tubergen.
thingiverse.com/thing:1512

I made it so that the parts can be clicked together into a box, it also is stackable, you can build a tower of these.
The source file is for a lower sized version of the box. You can modify the file to fit the size you need.

Material used: 3mm plywood

MakerBot Defender
CodeName - MD-B12

My Makerbot CNC aka "DemonDust" is the Queen ant, and a Queen ant produces the soldiers on the "front line". The Makerbot Defender is designed and built to protect as a soldier, just as in nature a soldier ant protects a well structured colony all working as one unstoppable force.

UPDATED PARTS - 5/10/2010
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftElbow_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftShoulderBolt_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_RightArmJointConnector_v3
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftHandJointConnector_v2

These upgraded parts solve loose joint issues and strengthens moving parts

Features :

This version is made from ABS plastic built on a heated platform.

Version #1 tank treads are hard to move, but moveable. Upgrades are being designed and will soon follow

The mounted cannon is for defense purposes only. Launching non-lethal smoke prejectiles to create smoke cover to confuse and slow invaders

Infrared camera is mount on the shoulder helping to watch over the Queen for temperture accuracy

Every soldier in nature is equipped with a strong pair of claws. These arms can move over 180 degrees front to back with claws that can be opened and held in any position. Upgrades are being designed for the next
version of arms/claws


Upgrades :

One of the best pre-designed ideas for the MakerBot Defender,it is upgradeable. The mounted cannon and Infrared camera just slide right out of the main body panel. Making it possible to design anything and replace existing features.


Scale:

Rough measurements
7"(wide) x 8.5"(deep) x 7"(tall)

I have redrawn on a larger scale all the pieces.
We must support the right front leg so that the dragon is in equilibrium.
Also with a light 'LED' may have a superb effect.
Good cutting and assembling

Basically a clip designed to grip the edge of your desk and have cable (USB, laptop power, network, etc, etc) threaded through them, so that cables don't vanish off the edge and behind your desk the minute you unplug them.

This is a model of the Taipei 101 building in about 1:3750 scale.

Although it's not the highest building of the world (since the Burdsch Chalifa building was finished), in my opinion the Taipei 101 is still the most beautyful skyscraper on the planet.

The real thing has a height of 509.2m (1,671ft). The model is printed with the awesome height of 135mm, which makes it currently the tallest build for the MakerBot (http://wiki.makerbot.com/hall-of-fame-tallest-print )!

Be sure to check the possible build height of your MakerBot before starting this print...

Strømg Lump Leaks is a ceiling lamp designed by Lamp Lumps (LL).

The used technique is self supporting interlocking of pieces (without gluing, screwing or nailing) of 547 different pieces of polypropylene routed with a three-axis CNC.

The conception and materialization is mixed by using digital and analogue means.

The first name Strømg is the junction of the English term strong with the Danish surname Strøm. Strong, because it is a robust three-dimensional puzzle witch form is the result of small variations in each of the pieces. Strøm, because this work is an homage to Holger Strøm and his IQ Lamp.

The Lump Leaks surnames suggest, for instance, the leaking drops of water or the leaking of information. The abstraction of the concept results, morphologically, in a piece that is the materialisation of the metaball modeling technique that was widely used by pioneers of digital media in architecture in the 90’s.

This is a controlled heating of the build surface of the MakerBot CupCake CNC to minimize warping, improve 3D printing, enable larger object builds, and provide a host of assorted other goodies such as raft-free printing, easy object release from temperature responsive surfaces such as glass.

A regular polyhedron with twelve pentagonal faces. This one is about about 25mm high and is hollow. See hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/dodecahedron.html.

This is a large (20+" diameter) mechanical clock originally designed to be cut with waterjet. It could be cut also with a laser, if the right materials are used.

the only non-cnc parts are shafts and tubes that go over the shafts, and a few screws to bolt the front to the back.

the design is based on two different wooden clocks from woodenclocks.co.uk/the_clocks.html (Clock 1 and Clock 2). The wooden clocks don't have second hands, but I added one to my design.

The front gear on the right shaft is connected to the ratchet and pawl mechanism and can be used for winding the weight back up again.

A hook with a bearing to suspend a basket of plastic to feed a RepRap machine. Full details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/sky-hook.html

The Nintendo's gift to the world. A block with leds that you can't live with and can't live without (Metroid 3.. ARGH)
I have a part of ghero drumset in front of sensorbar and it sometimes blocked the line of sight to the sensorbar and it F'd up my gameplay.
There were few times I really wanted to send the 50€ controller combo to the earth orbit through the tv set because of that.
This contraption solved that.
This raises the sensor bar 35-100mm over the possible obsticles (and closer to the tv screen)

(it stays up because of the friction from the clips clamping down to the wiibar)

I wrote a script to generate lasercut boxes. The script reads a config file with the box dimensions and generates a DXF file and an OpenSCAD model. We use the script for all types of cases here at metalab. The example file attached is the case of our electronic door lock system.

The script can be found here:
svn.clifford.at/handicraft/2009/boxgen/

You might need to install SPL (the scripting language I've used for the script) before you can use the script:
clifford.at/spl/