This is based off of the very excellent Foam Dart Pistol from vik. I couldn't achieve the desired height with the Thing-O-Matic that I wanted, so I modified the design to have a separate muzzle. I added a sight to the muzzle to facilitate putting the two parts securely together. The muzzle piece actually goes on and stays in place without glue, especially with the rubber bands in place.

I added the matching sight parts to the back. of the gun, and updated the openscad to have optional mouse ears to keep parts down better. I needed the ears with the ABP, but not with a HBP. You can see the ears on the blue muzzled gun. My wife thought they gave the gun a sci-fi look, so she wanted to keep them.

Early testing showed that the firing pin quickly chewed into the front of the barrel. So I added a second set of blocks (that will also work with the original design) that can be glued on additionally, and replaced with wear. They also support rubber stops nicely. I used cut up pieces of a rubber washer.

This came about because, I had a lot of trouble printing the pistol at first. Turns out it was mostly due to my ABP on my Thingomatic allowing too much sway. I took off the belt, and have a quasi-HBP now. My prints are much more accurate, especially when printing so tall.

This DIY filament spool can easily be adjusted by different rod lengths or arm sizes. The current design is made for 8mm threaded rods between the center and the arms. You also need two 608 bearings for the center part. I tried around 3kg of filament on the big version with 13cm long threaded rods. Works just fine and helps to avoid tangled up filament.

We also offer the small version in our webshop: cubic-print.com/DIY-Filament-Spool

it's a thing i made, i actually made a mold and reproduced a few.

original printed positive on the left (transparent), cast resin on the right (pink)

This is a python script for generating cylindrical coordinate functions as OpenSCAD scripts.

Specify height, radial resolution, vertical resolution, wall thickness, and a twist parameter at the top of the python script.

Specify radius as a function of theta and height in a function called "fun" also in the script.

The archive contains a few files :
-- cylindrical.py is the script
-- spin.sh is an example of using inotify to automatically regenerate the .scad file every time the .py script is updates.
-- various .stl outputs and some .gcode

This script solves the problem of :
-- generating a surface from a cylindrical function
-- generating a constant-thickness wall for most reasonable curves
-- a polygon function for plotting polygons in polar coordinates ( can be used to interpolate between polygons or other shapes )

This script is good for :
-- interpolating between different shapes along the cylinder with rotation
-- generating procedurally generated forms more quickly than composition in OpenSCAD

The script can now write STLs directly and can be configured to output solid objects or objects with a solid bottom. If a .stl filename is given as the first command line argument, the script will save to that file, otherwise it will print to standard out. Python also attempts to automatically call meshlab if it is installed to display the rendered result. If a .scad filename is given as the command line argument, an OpenSCAD script will be written and meshlab will not be launched.

This is a model christmas tree printable on the makerbot with a slot to insert a coin battery and an LED to illuminate the piece from inside! Merry Christmas and Happy Printing!

Update: corrected a bug in the model that made it print without the base!
Also, this updated version is smaller then the previous one avoiding some problems while printing the top

I am radically redesigning the Prusa Mendel. I call it the 2012. More plastic parts, less hardware, and some much needed improvements.
Read about it here:
plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/PrusaMendel2012-1/
New parts will be uploaded as they are proven.
Many features are derivative of other parts on thingiverse. Thanks to everyone! We are standing on the shoulders of giants.

This is a 3D model of a squirrel that I found on Aim@Shape [1]. It was uploaded by MPII and is actually under the MPII Institute License, which you can view by clicking on the download link on the things page at Aim@shape.

I flattened the base and cleaned up some artifacts on the tail that I'm guessing were the result of scanning.

This is the most work I've ever done on a model (I used Netfabb and Blender to clean it), so I learned a lot, and he came out very cute. My print came before I caught an error in the model, which caused the bandana looking line. It slices correctly now.

[1] shapes.aimatshape.net/view.php?id=105

Whilst ruminating on Project Shellter, I was reminded of visiting seaside towns in Oregon as a kid and seeing necklaces and earrings made by running nautilus shells through a band saw... so, I fired up SketchUp and with the help of skimbal, created a set of earrings which will be a Christmas gift for a good friend of mine.

UPDATE: After talking to some female friends, they suggested the front should be closed, to avoid getting them caught in hair. I had planned on doing that anyway to make the part a little stronger, so now there's a closed version too.

This a simple sling. Be carefull it can really injure someone!
You are totally responsible for what you do with it.

bowl for stuff that's small enough to fit inside and big enough to stay inside.

Another trinket box...

Probably look good printed by one of the people who use rainbow coloured filament.

Some receptacle forms for slicing/hacking.

Here are 15 basic printable (without support) shapes than can be produced in 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 100 sided versions.
That's over 300 basic shapes before scaling, chopping, merging, etc.
I've posted up the 100 sided versions as STLs and some examples of the others so that you can just print them if you don't feel like playing with OpenSCAD. If you can't find the one you want, let me know the shape and how many sides and I'll pop up an STL for you.

I think that's enough for now - maybe I'll make some lids for them another time.

It is parameterised, and you can change the number of cells in both directions.

A swift holds a skein of yarn while it is being wound into a ball, so you don't have to fight it all the way.

If you're a hardcore knitter, you buy your yarn from hippy communes in faraway places, or you spin it yourself[1]. This gives you yarn in skeins - long loops that are good for dyeing, but non-trivial to knit with. To get it into a ball, you need someone or something to hold it and prevent tangles, while you do the winding by hand or with a ball winder. That's where the swift comes in: it holds a skein of yarn, and rotates gently on demand, allowing to you to unwind/rewind yarn as needed without requiring a large family to assist you.

The canonical example of a swift is the umbrella swift. Wikipedia has a picture: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swift_%28textiles%29 . We[2] wanted something similarly light, yet sturdy enough for the wildest of knitting parties.

The arms of the swift expand to the diameter required for the skein when you press the top disk downwards, at least 1.8m for the parts given here. It is mounted on a rod around which it can rotate freely, but with enough dampening to not over-wind. It just feeds you yarn on demand.

A video of the assembled swift: youtu.be/Rj0PEjT_9D4


[1] Disclaimer: we are not knitters, this is merely an observation.
[2] I'm not the only one, rspanton was also involved in this project thingiverse.com/user:902

This is a bracket for a small angle grinder. It can be mounted around the shaft and has holes for 608zz bearings for connection.
The bracket was mounted between two scantlings which are connected to a board.

I added two fixation brackets at both sides of the blade with holes for M8 bars.
In combination with a ruler starting at the blade it is very easy to cut the bars for a 3D printer.

Read more about this on: ifeelbeta.de

Kind regards
Bonsai Brain

files for the toadinator

developed at educationhackday.org in baltimore

toadinator.schmarty.net

Thanks to Marty McGuire, Any Hurst, and John Cutonilli for working on the project, and thanks to Mike Brenner for organizing the event.

I always wished they would make this one.

Update: I cleaned up the merged area of the trilego so that a 2x2 block can attach to the bottom. Also added flat (1/3) block STL files.

This is a design of y-axis bushings without gluing.
With glue it is a mess to change or to remove the bushings.

Now at least the y-axis can be changed without removing the glued PLA bushings.

For this you have to drill holes into the y-axis-bottom-plate.
How to do this is described on: ifeelbeta.de

If you don't have a 3D printer yet you can order some at: 2printbeta.de

Greetings
BonsaiBrain

Preferred material: White ABS.

This is possibly the first free & open-source long-sleeved collared shirt available online! Normally you'd have to buy a paper pattern, trace it, and cut it out... now you can download this file, cut it out on a laser cutter, and start stitching! Some people claim that a laser cutter is overengineering, but I say nay! Furthermore, the design can now be crowdsourced and improved.

TODO: Sizing, align collar notches, pocket, better photos.

This is a working zipper mechanism. I printed it as an experiment, inspired after the zipper on my wife's coat broke. (I don't think I can print a replacement, yet.) There might be applications to join small sections of a structure to make a large object, but mostly it's a toy.

This thing allows you to precisely position and align the 45 degree secondary mirror on a Newtonian telescope.

It is designed around a 1 inch (minor axis) mirror, but you could conceivably use a much larger mirror.

The facets on the mirror holder sides make it easy to adjust it's alignment

Nov 4 '11- I updated the files for three changes
- There are now niches for M3 nuts for the collimation screws.
- The main M4 screw now has a conical hole on the angled part, so the part can now pivot, to a limited degree.
- Took a chunk off the top of the angles part. Speeds up printing, and makes for better prints.

This thing securely holds, positions, and aligns the primary mirror of a Newtonian telescope.

This cell is designed around a 114 mm spherical primary mirror, since it's cheap enough to experiment with (around $40 for primary & secondary at this place: meridiantelescopes.com). Plus, a much larger mirror cell won't fit on the beds of most printers.

Scaling up will certainly require some design changes, since larger mirrors are much heavier. Larger mirror cells will likely require a bigger printer bed or a modular design (check out the multi-cell arrangements below). Even at it's current size it might warp.

None of the Tardises on here were quite what I was looking for, so i decided to make one myself.

I tried to make it as parametric as possible, but you'll still find some things, such as the depth of the face impression, that are static.

I'm working on an accompanying insert that will light up the light on top from the inside, I'll add that as a derivative as it develops.

Let me know if you find any parameters that aren't scaling/re-sizing properly.

EDIT: Per suggestions from Bluemetal and Tbuser I've added leading 0s to my decimal values and added render() to the face module, so it will now compile(F5) properly.

This is a very simple SD card holder, the size of a credit card, which fits in a wallet. It's designed to be slim so that it should be able to slip into any credit card slot. It holds two standard SD cards, one mini-SD card, and one micro-SD card. Mini-SD isn't very popular as far as I can tell, but I didn't think anyone would need TWO spare micro-SD cards so I went with the mini instead.

The general idea is that you can carry spare cards for your phone, camera, or whatever. [Actually, if anyone is interested I could probably replace one of the cards with a spot for a SIM card.] I prefer keeping my keychain light, so I'd rather have this in my wallet than a USB stick on my keys when I need to transfer or store data.

Complete with rounded corners and divots for easy removal. :)

I actually made a version of this by cutting up business cards about a year ago, but the paper was too weak to really work. Hopefully this will be rigid enough to keep the cards in place and protected. There is no lid because I designed the cards to fit tightly, and once it's in your wallet there should be no danger of any falling out. But if they aren't secure enough I'll add some kind of cap.

After the bear stipped the mirrors of my 85' bus, trying to get in

This is an update to my Accessible Wade's Extruder.

The idler is now hinged using an M3 screw.
I have also added support for the central part of the 608 idler so that there is no need to use washers to space the bearing away from the plastic.

I have been using this design for a while now and love it.

Changing filament is a simple as compressing the spring then whipping out the old filament and poking the new one in.

UPDATE: 6 Aug 2011 - Add arcol (cory75 thing:10532) and wildseyed hotend mount options. Im not overly happy with the asymmetry of the arcol option.

The missing stick for the Octopus Bun Cover...
Sporting a matching curl...
The octopus was smoothed out using the Cinema4D tool 'Hypernurbs'.

Well, one printed part anyway. You still need to put in some tubing. After having some trouble with the first peristaltic pump I tried, I did some Google-ing and came across this:
microfluidics.stanford.edu/Publications/Micropumps_Cooling/Shkolnikov-selfpriming-rollerfree-minature-peristaltic-pump.pdf

It is basically a diaphragm pump with the check valves and diaphragm integrated into a single piece of plastic. The best performing version so far can be viewed here:

youtu.be/fRKeDQPz7xw

With some more tweaking I'm sure it can be made better. The nice thing about it is that it requires very little plastic, and is very compact. In the paper they drive it with an eccentric cam. Naturally I want to make some computer-controlled colored-water tubing thing with a bunch of these now. Also, real 3d-printed squirt guns.

Update: There is currently a problem with this pump that doesn't arise until a few days after assembly. Presumably due to creep, the downstream valve slowly loses its ability to seal completely, resulting in greater backflow and then failure. I will experiment but I may not be able to solve this problem without adding pieces (thinking of a set screw plunger sort of deal).

Version History:

V2 (11/1/2011): Improved stroke volume and reduced backflow.

Added a toroidal radial taper to the design, so that it would fit our little hand-held vacuum. Basically, it's taller in the middle than on the edges.

The scad is configured to print part of a hand-held vacuum, replacing an injection-molded part that blew apart under use. Also added variables to make the center hollow, which seems to improve suction, and of course sized it up for the vac in question, a Shark 18v Cordless.

Here is a film reel for an 8mm projector. I designed it specifically for a Brownie Movie Projector, made by Kodak, but it could work for other projectors(?).

Enjoy!

Sidenote: This thing could use an adjustment here or there to really be optimal...but it works well enough for me to not want to bother tightening it up.

Good luck!