Here it is. Version 3.0 of the PublicLaboratory.org mobile spectrometer. This spectrometer is a scientific tool that straps onto an Android or iOS phone, tablet, or any camera capable of focusing very close (macro-mode) and allows you to collect spectra. Why would you want one? You can use it to identify the elemental composition of things (light bulbs, olive oil, beer, etc) based on the colors of light they emit. You can even use it to monitor your home brewing progress (http://bit.ly/Xyor6B).

My QU-BD extruder was stopping a lot so I made some modifications. The primary problem was the way they push the filament against the drive gear with a set screw. I switched to a spring loaded idler pulley. This will work with the stock QU-BD drive gear, but I switched to an MK7 style drive gear. The extruder is super reliable now.

There are two versions of the parts to allow you run the filament through the right side or left side. You need a 4mm I.D. x 13mm O.D x 5mm thk bearing (624), a button head 4mm x 10 screw, a 4mm washer and a spring. I used a 3/8" x 1-1/8" x 0.047 spring from a Home Depot assortment pack. The other parts are available a lot of places, but I bought mine at McMaster Carr.

It all fits within the width of the motor, so two can be run side by side.

I have a wiki page of all the things I did to tune up my QU-BD extruder here... buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php?id=ord_bot:qu-bd_extruder_improvements

propeller for openRov

I'm leaving Thingiverse after seeing updated Terms of use thingiverse.com/legal , over next few days I will remove all my stuff. It will be downloadable on my website josefprusa.cz or reprap.org I prefer to by owner of my own designs :-)

We are not trolls, as Raldrich said

"The fact that the legal ramifications of MakerBot's TOS weren't discovered until today doesn't magically give them a free pass.

The fact that they don't intend (today) to exercise the rights they've granted themselves also doesn't magically give them a free pass. Companies change - take a look at their stance on Open Source Hardware."

Also Replicator 2 is Closed Source, at least everything looks like it and guy on Makerbot support phone told me so.
Check out my open letter to Bre Pettis here josefprusa.cz/open-hardware-meaning/
Help out by spreading the word! reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/10642q/open_hardware_meaning_josef_prusa/
slashdot.org/submission/2267155

Link it, tweet it, comment it! Help the cause and show them we want it Open Source!

First alternative garyhodgson.com/reprap/2012/09/githubiverse-a-github-pages-template-for-3d-printing-projects/

Print the Test Cube as ugly as you can and post picture of it as "I made one" :-)

Jo Prusa, RepRap core dev

Updated to v1.33 11/8/12 4:13PM EDT. Vane support by JoeyC.
Updated to v1.32 6/9/12 4:13PM EDT. (+v-grooves +flats)
Updated to v1.23 4/23/12 1:52AM EDT. (240 downloads)
Updated to v1.22 4/21/12 6:38PM EDT. (72 downloads)
Updated to v1.21 4/18/12 1:16AM EDT. (187 downloads)
Updated to v1.2 4/17/12 11:56PM EDT.
Updated to v1.1 4/16/12 7:16PM EDT.

This is very highly customizable wheel in the way of an OpenSCAD file with 46 parameters that provides a limitless set of combinations and wheel designs. I affectionately refer to it as "One Wheel To Rule Them All."

It can be wide, narrow, big, little, fat hub, skinny hub, no hub, through-hole, servo arm mounted, chamfered, multi-tire, modeled tread, optical encoder-slotted, and more. It even accommodates stretched o-ring tires. It just can't be square, because my sources tell me that won't roll well. The code is extensively documented, and traces out helpful information about the geometry of the wheel/tire, as well as encoder slot metrics (e.g. each rising edge is 42.42mm/1.67in in travel).

It includes twelve standard tread patterns (all configurable in often surprising ways), eight core spoke patterns (also highly customizable), configurable support for o-rings, bands, and optical encoder timing slots (directional and non-directional), and a lot more. Plus, I’m still adding features as I think of them.

The images show most of the core building blocks, plus just a few random variations. Some of the settings produce unique and creative designs that don't even really match the descriptions. As an example, see the few spiral designs pictured separately.

To put it a different way, the tread and spoke designs are *not* limited to what you see. For example, you can easily stretch the length, width and height of each knob, and their relative positions to create new variations.

This design combines all my previous wheel designs and adds a lot of new features. For an easier-to-read version of the instructions, see my blog at thefrankes.com/wp/?p=2674.

This is a simple pinhole lens and cap attachment for a Nikon camera with an f-mount bayonet style mount.

This is the Quantum ORD Bot. It is 3D printer mech platform made from MakerSlide linear bearing. It is extremly ridged and very easy to build. The design can easily be scaled in X,Y and/or Z by simply changing the Makerslide lengths plus belt and leadscrew lengths. This is the mini or 'Quantum' version. The parts other than MakerSlide are either off the shelf standard items or easily fabricate with a laser cutter, 3D printer or CNC router. There is a blog post giving a lot more detail.

buildlog.net/blog/2012/01/the-quantum-ord-bot/

As a reference point, this size uses less than $15 worth of Makerslide extrusion. You also need about $45 worth of MakerSlide wheels, spacers, etc. The Makerslide parts are available at the MakerSlide store. Be aware the rail is released in weekly 'production batches' and sells out very quickly. It is 'restocked' on weekly basis.

I have attached the complete 3D design in STEP format plus a DXF of the flat parts. If I can generate enough interest, I may have about 50 sets of parts fabricated and offer kits. That would be for the mechatronics platform only. The extruder, electronics, etc would not be included.

Why spend $200 for a set of printed parts when you can have everything you see here, including motors, belts, pulleys for about $200?

Planned changes.
1. I plan to change the crossbar handle thing to an extrusion to make it more scalable.
2. The 'quantum' design currently uses NEMA14 motors. I plan to tweak the parts to be compatible with NEMA17. This just adds a second pattern to some parts.

The ProtoBot is a basic prototyping minimum robot developed in OOML (v2.0) (Object Oriented Mechanics Library) iearobotics.com/oomlwiki

The robot was inspired by:

MiniSkyBot: thingiverse.com/thing:7989
Scout Robot: thingiverse.com/thing:13042

It is designed to mount an Arduino UNO and a protoboard, so the users can add all the electronics and sensors they may want.

The body takes less than 2 hours to be printed on a MakerBot TOM.
The wheels included in the ProtoBOT are derived from the MiniSkybot wheels (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7989) designed by ObiJuan (http://www.thingiverse.com/obijuan)

A list of other available wheels is:

thingiverse.com/thing:9071
thingiverse.com/thing:9204
thingiverse.com/thing:18377


As a castor wheel it uses a Ball Wheel Holder, inspired by the Scout Robot (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13042). The diameter of the wheel is typical in Spain (16mm aprox). For different diameters you can easily change the cpp code of the Part.

First Motion Test: youtube.com/watch?v=3n87DS0lhV8

The ProtoBOT has been designed by:

Mario Almagro: thingiverse.com/mario_al
Nieves Cubo: thingiverse.com/nicuma
Alberto Valero: thingiverse.com/avalero

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

This part is used to mount accessories or additions to the scoutbot(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13042).

Laser cutter coolant flow sensor.

The concept was to have a sensor that wasn't inline with the coolant line and couldn't restrict the flow if it seized up. I'm sure that the design is scaleable within reason for other projects. It is simply tywrapped to the outlet end of the coolant pipe and dunked in the coolant reservoir/bucket.
The sensor is a simple hall effect switch.

BTW, if anyone knows how to embed a YouTube link to movie, let me know - the movie is at the bottom :-)

In this case, the SCAD code of the Scout printbot has been converted into OOML code ( iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php ). At the same time, the ScoutMega printbot derives from the MiniSkyBot ( thingiverse.com/thing:7989 ) by Obijuan ( thingiverse.com/obijuan ). The castor wheel in the rear part is the same as in the MiniSkyBot, but the OOML version ( thingiverse.com/thing:12198 ) by avalero ( thingiverse.com/avalero ) was employed.

Here is a small video (in spanish): youtube.com/watch?v=821ua42vHks

The main design is the same as the Scout printbot, but an additional front bumper has been included in order to mount on it a gripper. The gripper selected is a modification of the one posted in ( thingiverse.com/thing:2415 ).

The electronics consists on an Arduino Mega board and 3 Futaba S3003 servos (for both wheels and gripper).

In the attached files, all the source code is provided: SCAD files and STL. There is algo a C++ file in which it is the code of the chassis using the OOML.

Additional things:
To assemble everything, you will need at least:
- 11 M3x8mm screws.
- 4 M3x20mm screws.
- 14 M3 nuts.
- 2 O-ring: 50x3 mm.
- 1 O-ring 16x3 mm.

Realize that for the gripper I just used some plastic wire. You can do this as well but if you want to use screws (for a more robust coupling), you will need:

- 6 M3x6mm screws.
- 6 more M3 nuts.

TO DO:
- The gipper is too big according the size of the chassis. This make the printbot unstable sometimes.

- Change the design to make it easier to assemble.

- Improve the gripper anchorage. Right now it is very difficult to assemble.

I'm sorry about this issues. That is what happens when an electronic design mechanics :)

I made this to drive someone insane. It will not open a hellgate in your living room or anything.

A simple and strong quick release for you to quickly mount and dismount your camera, or whatever, on anything you want. I am using this to mount my DSLR on a time lapse panning rig.

UPDATE
I have added a redesigned handle that uses less material and can turn left or right.

Another good use is to place this on a tripod that doesn't have a quick release.

These are the designs for Mendel style linear ball bearings. The bearings are for use in a DIY CNC mill.

Since there isn't too much room for the bearings (especially at the Z axis), I designed the printed ball bearing retainers as low profile as possible. The "inner" ball bearings are halfway sunk in the base plate.
This not only keeps the assembly as low as possible, but also guarantees the same height reference for the fixed bearings (the axle sits directly on the plate). All upper bearings are adjustable.

See a video with a comparison of bush bearings and these linear ball bearings on the same rods:
youtube.com/watch?v=nL-CA5Fm8bk

For more information on the DIY CNC mill, see pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2011/05/13/poor-mens-laser-cutter/

Having sat on an Ukulele, I decided the best way to avoid pesky repairwork would be to hang the instruments up where I can't crush them. This does the job.

I've included two versions of the object as STL. One has a thicker base in case your ukulele head ends up needing to go through a wall if you try to mount it on the thinner one. The thin version looks better, and for my instruments at least, I think would work even if I had mounted them on a wall instead of the top of a shelf as I did.

Included is also the Blender file for these, which should be better suited for editing than the STLs.

This is still a bit of a work in progress but I think it's mostly workable now.

Warning! There be overhangs here!

I have yet to see what sort of torque this can handle but it seems like it will handle quite a bit. I'm able to stop it if I grab two of the screws sticking out of the planet carrier. Hopefully I'll measure the torque soon.

This is intended to be used with another bearing somewhere on the output shaft. I can't imagine that it would handle any load with only one bearing on there. A different cover could easily be made with a spot for another bearing.


The current design adds 38.5mm in length to your stepper, it could be less but the makerbot supplied stepper that I have has long shaft so I had to make it longer to stop it from interfering with the bolt for the output.
It could probably be 5mm or so shorter pretty easily with a shorter stepper shaft.

Change Log

5/11/2011 Initial Upload
5/12/2011 Switched to 2x 683ZZ bearings for planets, shortened planets a bit, increased backlash and clearance, added list of some possible ratios
5/13/2011 Added addendum/dedendum adjustment to gear library for internal gear.
Removed most of the constants at the top and switched to arguments with defaults
Added multi-stage capability, now you can stack multiple stages in one case
5/20/2011 Added a way to get a screw in to bolt to the stepper and nuts in so that you can bolt it to something (I didn't think it would be too easy to find screws to go through the whole thing into the stepper)
Added a relief on the underside of the cover to clear the screws in the carrier.
5/25/2011 Uploaded separate STLs and modified involute_gears library

This type of train coupler is widely used for passenger trains in Japan.

I designed this tool to help me hob a toothed channel in a drive bolt for a wade's extruder. I've printed one, and used it successfully.

Adjustable spool to be able to load 1lb filament from the bag without having to wind on to a fixed spool.

A probe that can make Z measurements and then retract itself out of the way. It was designed for HydraRaptor but can probably be adapted for other wooden machines like Makerbot.

See hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/04/auto-z-probe.html

My design goal for this extruder was an extremely reliable, no compromise, extruder for the Makerbot, that builds on all the most successful ideas currently available in thermoplastic extrusion. At the same time I wanted an extruder that could easily be printed on a Makerbot build plate with a as large a raft as possible to allow those who do not have a heated build plate to print it easily.

Brutstruder is a hybrid of many successful current extruders. It get's its idler wheel from the Wades Extruder thingiverse.com/thing:1794, and the drive gear from the Mk5 Plastruder thingiverse.com/thing:3290">. It also get's a viewport from the Printruder II - Rear Breech Loading thingiverse.com/thing:3178, it's Electronics board holder from the Prinstruder II thingiverse.com/thing:1980, and it's legs are 2 of the DINO2 from Zaggo's Printable extruder holder thingiverse.com/thing:1912.

This design has been endurance tested in multiple ways.

I made the extruder lift 27 lb of water (this was before adding a 4th spring, and going to harder spring, no telling what it would lift now).
I fed it 3d Ink Plastic only throughout testing.
I have printed 36 hours straight with this extruder at this time with 0 failures.
I also fed it 1/8 inch ABS welding rods from the local welding shop.

Now you see why I call it Brut.