I needed (wanted) a longer handle for this thing so i did it.

Just a quick OpenSCAD that slices the skaft.stl in three pieces (bottom, middle and top) and then, it puts them back together changing the length of the middle section to fit the length that has been entered as a parameter.

I tagged this with the "thing-a-day" tag... Oups! I was too late to sign-up so, I guess I shouldn't. I have no problem to remove the tag :-( just let me know

Adaptor for digiscoping that connects a camera to an optical telescope. Convenient to center your camera with the scope. Diameters are configurable through an openscad script.

Back in 1980 my grandparents bought me a toy - "Little Van Goes" by Tomy. This was a bunch of plastic plates that had raised images of van parts. You could combine three plates in a holder, put a piece of paper on it, and rub with a crayon to make the most awesome 70's vans you could imagine. There were others of this type of toy, but pretty much entirely fashion oriented: Fashion Plates, Barbie Fashion Plates, etc.

Thirty-two years later I decided to make my own version of those types of toys, but this time as there is a community of makers, together we can overcome the problem with the originals: lack of variation in plates!

Now we can design as many plates as we want: sleepy robot eyes, rabbit mouth, pig nose, googly eyes, parts made from kids' drawings, ornamental parts, ABCs, and so on!

Have fun!

Read more of my thought process and story here: myplasticfuture.com/cottage-frottage-or-making-creative-fun-at-ho

This is based off of the very excellent Foam Dart Pistol from vik. I couldn't achieve the desired height with the Thing-O-Matic that I wanted, so I modified the design to have a separate muzzle. I added a sight to the muzzle to facilitate putting the two parts securely together. The muzzle piece actually goes on and stays in place without glue, especially with the rubber bands in place.

I added the matching sight parts to the back. of the gun, and updated the openscad to have optional mouse ears to keep parts down better. I needed the ears with the ABP, but not with a HBP. You can see the ears on the blue muzzled gun. My wife thought they gave the gun a sci-fi look, so she wanted to keep them.

Early testing showed that the firing pin quickly chewed into the front of the barrel. So I added a second set of blocks (that will also work with the original design) that can be glued on additionally, and replaced with wear. They also support rubber stops nicely. I used cut up pieces of a rubber washer.

This came about because, I had a lot of trouble printing the pistol at first. Turns out it was mostly due to my ABP on my Thingomatic allowing too much sway. I took off the belt, and have a quasi-HBP now. My prints are much more accurate, especially when printing so tall.

A dovetailed modular ER-25 collet holder. Ultimately, I want to add a lid to make it a box as well as just use it for organizing the collets on my workbench.

I wanted to print the box in the derivative tag but I couldn't fit the ER25 sized version on the bed of the Makerbot. So, I modularized it...

Full credit to Typhlosaurus (http://www.thingiverse.com/Typhlosaurus) who made his coffin design and inspired me to make this derivative!

Use this little box to keep your favourite minifig in your pocket (if you are 5, or 35yrs old it doesn't matter!) The lid snaps tight and add a piece of string between the loops. I added these loops so I wouldn't be constantly searching for lost lids:)

I added pegs to keep the minifig in place for display purposes.

Thinking of adding sword and weapon holders inside later.

This moon rover is pretty simple; the real point is the treads. The idea of turning my Stretchy Bracelet into tank tracks is thanks to BenRockhold. Turns out it works really well: if you push this around on a slightly grippy surface like carpet, the tracks roll easily.

In fact, the track keys into the wheels so well, this could probably be used as a timing belt or chain.

This is a lightweight flexible shaft extruder, that i designed for highspeed printing.
The idea was to keep the stepper away from the moving parts so not too much mass has to be accelerated without the disadvantages of a bowden-extruder. (i posted a early idea of ot here thingiverse.com/thing:6653)
Another idea was to replace the passive idler bearing with a active second hobbed-thing as well as using gears with a bigger diameter to garanty better grip when extruding at high speed. Also the distance between the gears and the nozzle is relativel short for more direct drive.
The extreuder consists of two parts, each of which can rotate around the worm-axis. this way the distance between the worm and the gears always stays the same, but the pressure for driving the filament can be adjusted.
The name slugstruder is because of two reasons. in germany we call wormgears something like snail-gears (Schneckengetriebe) and slugs are something like snails as well. Another reason is that i like brainslugs ;)

The flex-shaft i will use is one from a motorbike - speedo. These have one prefered direction to rotatet, so be sure to pick one that has the same rotation as the worm gear that u're using. If the torque for thsi one is not enough i will try a dremel like one later.

This is a work in progress.
The parts i added are only to take a look at the design and do not work till now (the spring tensioner thing and some holes are still missing)
also the connection to the flexshaft is missing..
The gears are some standard parts that should be available everywhere.
The bigger holes are teardrop shaped to improve printability, but i could also supply some files with round holes.

This is a 3-digit, base-10 register for an electromechanical computer I'm working on. It is stepper-driven, and works like a 3-digit counter, counting from 000-999 before rolling over. When all three digit wheels read '0-0-0', 3 reed switches will close and a circuit will be completed to detect the condition.

Development of Moineau pump: thingiverse.com/thing:7958

This is still under development, but the final goal is to develop this into a paste dispenser operated by a stepper motor and used in a 3D printer to form things from any paste-like material. For now, this operates with just a hand crank. Compared to the original, the rotation is reversed and the idea is to feed it from the top and have it push the pumped material out from the nozzle at the bottom.

Printed and tested (by hand) a very rough, smaller prototype. Some pumping action was seen with water-flour mixture, so it works on a basic level.

Printed and tested a spider coupling for driving the pump. Seems promising, the orbit of the rotor didn't seem to be any kind of a problem.

It's a little late for Christmas; I posted this on our blog, but hadn't thought to make a 'thing' out of it.

Video here:
protoparadigm.com/2011/12/carol-of-the-bells-on-a-makerbot-thing-o-matic/

Here is a switch mount for a Mini Lathe with an autostop I designed (see 2nd photo).
I am putting this out here but I realize it is a very specific application and probably not of much use to others.
The stop is spring loaded and has a clamping effect. It holds very well and is easy to adjust.
The photos at the bottom were failed prints but work for showing how it's put together. The final product is much better quality but I forgot to take pictures before assembling it.

OK Folks, my apologies for not getting this out before Christmas Day, but I was, you know, Resolving Issues.

This is the solution for the late, forgetful, busy, or uninspired gift giver. Good ol' cash is always welcome, and this provides a cool way to present it and show off your 3D printing prowess.

The ellipse is sized to match the portrait on recent US currency. There is a slot at the bottom for sliding in a folded bill (or two or three), and an attachment point at the top for a hanger hook.

Wooden Jewelry Box

This is a wobbler engine that I printed on my Reprap :)

a Wobbler engine has no power and is good for absolutely nothing (except the satisfaction of having made one) and is the most basic engine you can make I think

see it working here: youtu.be/yNW0m6YCkxA
and check out my other stuff at backyard-workshop.com

My son is fond of his scotch tape. He wanted a dispenser since the refills didn't fit in his old one.

The openscad file is somewhat parametric but is untested it with any other settings.

It uses syvwlch's awesome thread library ( thingiverse.com/thing:8793 )
So, you'll need that if you want to use the scad file.

Applying upward pressure to the foot can temporarily relieve pain associated with Plantar Fasciitis. While apparatuses do exist to do this, many put tension on the toe using a tight fitting sock. This causes discomfort to the toe. This apparatus is designed to put tension on the ball of the foot. This thing was suggested to me by a Physical Therapist who sufferers from pain due to Plantar Fasciitis to help alleviate discomfort!

This is a resting splint for when you are sleeping or relaxing (not walking).

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This thing is part of a final project for CPSC 183 Technology and the Law with Prof. Brad Rosen at Yale University. The idea of this project is to ask friends for ideas for physical objects that they would like to have that could be printed on the Makerbot TOM. I have designed them, printed them out and given them to the people who requested them. I also have uploaded them here to Thingiverse to add to the library of physical objects that people find cool, useful, or just plain fun!
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First, many thanks to Mr. Drumm for proving that a two-legged printer could work as well as a triangular prism, giving me inspiration to finally toy with the idea that was in my head. Thank you sir!

So far, my plan is to fit everything inside a build area of 300mm by 300mm by 200mm. The print area is about 170mm by 210mm, with a (hopeful) height of around 120mm. I also want everything it takes to make this to be able to fit in the print area, one sheet.

In addition, I want to try and have only 4 motors, 1 for each axis and one for the extruder, not sure yet whether to go with a geared or a bowden setup, will decide that later, or leave it open to decisions. And yes, the z-motor is a flat stepper (I'm hoping the motor I found has enough torque to move the bed, not gotten to test it yet, ripped it out of a scanner. If not, this whole thing is going to get real interesting real quick).

Oh! A note, the bpholder file, that's the plate that goes under the build plate, I plan on using 1/8" hardboard, feel free to use anything 1/8"/3mm you'd like. The inner rectangle on it is the area that the build plate is, and that is entirely up to you for material, because you may want it heated, you may have other plans, and that's all on you.

The motor being used in the y-axis mount if most likely going to end up being a TRINAMIC stepper from Newark, part # 24M6626. This will most likely also be the motor used in the x-axis.

For those who have downloaded the files, if you see any issues, feel free to comment! I love feedback, both good and bad!

This hanger was requested by a friend who is very environmentally conscious. I thought this was a great way to recycle 2 bottles while utilizing the TOM's capabilities! A design similar to this by Chinese designer Xuan Yu inspired this thing's creation.

One thing to note is that the holes to accept the threads to the bottles are not threaded. A compression fit seems to work well enough.

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This thing is part of a final project for CPSC 183 Technology and the Law with Prof. Brad Rosen at Yale University. The idea of this project is to ask friends for ideas for physical objects that they would like to have that could be printed on the Makerbot TOM. I have designed them, printed them out and given them to the people who requested them. I also have uploaded them here to Thingiverse to add to the library of physical objects that people find cool, useful, or just plain fun!
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Video of a metal Schmidt Coupling in action: youtube.com/watch?v=_iIsibuIs08

Generates perspective illusions that look like one thing when viewed from one angle and another from a different angle.

Inspired by this: youtube.com/watch?v=BLFqylVh6g8

This is a derivation of the concept i used for the "BIC powered ballpen" , but with different style.

Its pattern like fishnet stockings and its smooth curves inspired me its name.

improvements are: less material needed, and you can see the cartridge through it.

See it in action!!!
(select 720p hd and fullscreen!!)

youtube.com/watch?v=1Oq3vD4pQIQ

And tell me if you successfully print it, i do not have a 3dprinter, thanks...

Oh no, I find something very good... print a Mendel over paper without raft. Just print using this: thingiverse.com/thing:13036
and enjoy... paper belt is perfect to print in abp. Use it just for personal purpose, no comercial use without permission.

youtube.com/watch?v=yx8Q8BmuEbM

It holds the chalk so you don't have to touch it with your bare fingers. It may be useful for teachers and anyone who handles chalk on a daily basis.

About 64mm ID.

Made on TOM MK7 with PLA.

Ready for final filing...but yes, they all turn!

Video of it working without filing...only trimming of all support material.
youtube.com/watch?v=rdVCbWK1KIg

This part is designed to allow you to mount a 1-DIN car stereo into a 2-Din slot. DIN is generally defined as 180X50mm, so a 2-DIN is 180X100mm. Many cars come with a 2-DIN sized manufacturer radio, while many aftermarket radios are 1-Din, necessitating a part to fill the gap in the front panel. In my case the car in question is a 1996 ford explorer with a 2-DIN radio slot. After the stock radio broke a few years ago I got a new radio that came with a mounting kit. After that radio got stolen the insurance sent us a radio that came with a mediocre mounting kit that promptly broke, so I designed and printed my own. The adapter mounts a Pioneer P5100UB head unit into the slot of a 1996 Ford Explorer, however DIN sizes tend to be standardized, making it possible that this unit will work for other vehicles, which is why I decided to post it.

Features:
The adapter has a large opening in the front to allow you to store CDs, remotes, papers, etc. There is a little lip on the front to prevent stuff from sliding out when you accelerate. The coolest feature is the three 5mm holes and channel on each side. These are intended for you to insert 3 LEDs and run the wiring through the channel so as to create a neat lighting effect. I found the coolest effect to be from producing the plastic parts entirely in Nuclear Green ABS: store.makerbot.com/nuclear-green-abs-1kg-spool-3mm-filament.html
The LEDs were UV: radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3107633
This creates an effect where the lighting comes almost entirely from the fluorescence of the plastic and is thus much more diffuse and less likely to glare into your eye while driving at night. It's also just very unique looking.

Note: In the third image from bottom the apparent double image of the 3 LEDs is caused by reflection off the top plastic surface, showing how shiny it is after treatment with acetone.
The bottom image is how the radio/lighting setup would appear from the vantage point of the driver looking down at night.
The top image of course looks straight in and is far brighter than the driver would see. Still it is important for safety reasons to wire it to an external switch rather than just wiring it to the ignition or the instrument light control so that it can be switched off manually if it becomes too bright or distracting.

This is my answer to storing all those failed prints, and raft materials, and leftover filament, in a handy dandy containment unit, called a "Maraca". Make 2 or more and it's PARTY TIME! Make a derivative, or Mashup. The Handle has a key core that is 10mm diameter, with a 15mm x 5 mm key that twists into a keyhole (2mm material thickness for keyhole). It can be made on a Makerbot.

Ever Wanted to flush a toilet like a king? Be Proud to Flush

(Can be printer on a makerbot 100 X 100 X 10mm)

Video Added:

youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=62fqxICksH0

Bar strip LED mounts and misc. LEDS are form superbrightleds.com, using their cheap in line dimmer re-mounted in a surface mount box.

We have a pet rat in a glass cage, and the designers of water bottle holders do not anticipate this sort of custom arrangement. So here's a snap-together design for a water bottle holder.