More of Chris K Palmer's work derived from octagons, flowers, and his trademark origami Flower Tower.

youtube.com/watch?v=9n6Na1VSnQY

Print.

Seems Chalice's are popular today:
flickr.com/photos/lunchbreath/6345115607/in/photostream/

Print and beautify.

youtube.com/watch?v=fGRJYojT3dI

About 64mm ID.

Made on TOM MK7 with PLA.

Ready for final filing...but yes, they all turn!

Video of it working without filing...only trimming of all support material.
youtube.com/watch?v=rdVCbWK1KIg

Make tiles.

Hack column for LED lights.

Objects designed by Chris K Palmer.

Do the same with thingiverse.com/thing:12722

More of the polar zonohedra series.

Chris is working on a script-based program to create polar zonohedral shapes. This is v0.1.

A video of the two-shelled translucent green PLA with LEDs youtube.com/watch?v=XX99Ttv5-qA

A video of the amazing strength of a single-shelled clear PLA version youtube.com/watch?v=ABPFfZ1NvZQ

More TK

Layout oriented to print on a Thing-O-Matic.

Chris is working on a script-based program to create scalloped- and column-faceted shapes. This is v0.1.

More TK

Chris is working on a script-based program to create scalloped- and column-faceted shapes. This is v0.1.

More TK

Combining Griffin Nicoll's Gem Ring (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11605) with Molly Fletcher's (hippigunnut) Parametric Compartment Tray (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12307) contains everything you need for a cheapskate engagement attempt. Intended not included.

Show you're part of the world's 99% by making and wearing this pin.
#OWS #occupywallstreet #occupywallst
occupywallst.org/

Steven Paul Jobs (February 24, 1955 – October 5, 2011)

The MK7 is great. But one thing never made it into the design spec: the ability to switch filaments mid-print.

Switching filaments enables multi-colored prints without fusing filament first. It also ensures that if you run out of a given filament, you can load new stock mid-print. This is very helpful for long prints.

The MK7's Stainless Steel Thermal Barrier Tube is not seated close enough to the Knurled Pulley, which makes it nearly impossible for a new filament to chase another into the Tube. However, raising the Tube ~3.5mm brings it close enough so that the new filament will not bend or slip off the old filament as it enters the Tube.

Another benefit is that you gain an additional ~3.5mm in Z-height!

Here's some video of the results youtube.com/watch?v=I25pOHE91xY

UPDATE: Zach posted a solid filament block for the MK7, so you should print this out and modify that instead of your purchased one. thingiverse.com/thing:12147

Just oriented correctly and placed on one plate for printing on MakerBots. Those with MK6+/MK7 will not likely have string issues.

I scaled the awesome Gem Ring by Griffin_Nicoll so it could be a bangin' bangle.

Wear it prouder than Flavor Flav.

Box measured and made for MakeALot's set of Double-Six Dominos.

We've been able to change colors mid-print by either joining filament or following the end of one color with another. This enables layers of color. However, it doesn't help with spot colors on the same layers.

I wanted to figure out a way to "register" the TOM so I could print a base and then selectively go back to different spots and prints colors after changing and flushing the previous filament.

Since RepG will center a file on the virtual platform, if you have a common outer plane that doesn't print, then all elements can be centered and the registered to one another.

Another problem is making sure the print head doesn't hit the previously-printed areas on its way to print another element. So, for this test, my business card seemed like a good example to prove the concept.

The idea sort of worked...for the most part...but it still needs a lot of love and attention that might not make any of us want to try this again ;-)

You have to manually zero the first change of color after printing the base. (Make sure to edit out the homing code.) Order of the colors is from bottom outer corners inward and up so print head doesn't travel into previously-printed space.

For a clearly great solution to printing crack-prone Things with ABS, just wrap a round of plastic film from the kitchen. Can be made almost invisible; you might forget it's there and bang your nose into it while checking out your build.

Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.
—Albert Einstein

Keep your wires neat and mount your board on the bottom in a spare location; no drilling required!

From George Hart's Web site, georgehart.com/sculpture/echinodermania1.html

"I like echinoderms, and these are toroidal sculptures inspired by their forms. They are not models of actual species, but more like some kind of parallel universe evolution of maniacal echinoderms. This family is toroidal in form, with the above example making five twists in its cycle. All are made by selective laser sintering of nylon, on an SLS machine, then I dyed them."

By only drilling eight holes, you can mount the guts of the MIB1 to better integrate with the Thing-O-Matic.

Trying to render my business card to print on my TOM.

Build to the max: Add inches to your build platform, and avoid hitting bolts by buying the parts to make the Thing-O-Matic's Heated Build Platform work in your Cupcake CNC.

Here's a version of the classic visualization puzzle to design a shape which fits snugly through a square hole, a circular hole and a triangular hole. The answer is the wedge shape shown here, which has a circular base, but looks square from one side and triangular from another.

Make tangled ABS spools go away and organize your color collection with this inexpensive mod to an $8.97 HomeDepot Cord Reel. Optional lazzzored divider allows two different colors or types on the same spool.

Nick Starno, MakerBot engineer and outdoor enthusiast asked if public USGS mapping data could be modeled. I knew that Chris K. Palmer would know how, and within an hour an .stl file arrived in my inbox. Palmer is a resourceful guy!

So I printed one on my MakerBot in clear ABS.