v of vendetta mask

After I added the tapered mouthpiece to the whistles, and with the hotdog-red ABS, these things remind me of a toy wienermobile I used to have. Thus the name.

This panflute is slightly more practical than the one it's derived from. The curved shape is easier to use than the circle, and I added a bit of taper to the mouthpiece to make it easier to blow on a single whistle. Still not a practical musical instrument, though!

This one has a diatonic scale (CDEFGABC) instead of chromatic like the other one. I had to learn the OpenSCAD lookup() function for that!

It seems that when I realize that I need to add cooling while printing a part, it needs to be RIGHT NOW, and not after I ruin a part and generate new gcode with cooling.

Sometimes I want to cool right at the extruder, and sometime I want to cool the whole build.

My solution is to mount a 40x40mm fan on the end of a gooseneck, and mount it to the top of my makerbot, so I can instantly swing it into action when needed.

My girlfriend challenged me to make a hand soap dispenser that is cooler than anything we could buy at Crate & Barrel (or similar stores). The result, after a number of design iterations, is this bottle which now inhabits our bathroom.

This dispenser is designed to reduce waste in a number of ways. First, it is easily refillable, and so can be used for many years. Second, as the pump is turned, liquid soap spills from the spout back into a hole in the bottle, thus recycling any drips. Third, this design makes it easy to get as much or as little soap as you want, while commercial soap pumps often dispense more soap than necessary with a single squeeze.

Deliver up to 6 Spices onto your Meals like a Boss!

Saw a pic from a asian desinerpage with a similar approach.. and designed my own rightaway.


Wont Fit a ToM but try scaled down.

all need some outer support.

This is a tool to help out with the creation of an ice-cream-stick-lamp (see picture). The lamp ommits a really nice light and can be formed as you like it.

However a native english speaker would call it - if you've got 5800 pieces of them you can make a great lamp out of it. Just drill two holes into each piece, connect them with a yarn and there you go. It's a bit of work, but the result is amazing. ;)

I have looked everywhere for an easy way to write on my 3d objects. Everything I could find was hard to manipulate, so I decided to give it a shot myself. Hope you like this as much as I do. I'll try to answer any questions you have.

write.scad Routines:
write()
writecube()
writesphere()
writecylinder()
writecircle()

Fonts:
letters.dxf (change in write.scad)
orbitron.dxf
braille.dxf
knewave.dxf
BlackRose.dxf
-------------------------
writecylinder specs in testwritecylinder.scad
-------------------------
Be glad to add more fonts if requested, or give details to make your own.

Few ages ago I was using a piece of paper "quite a 2D thing" to get 3 dimensional models, so this is a tribute to a couple of my first ever "made things".

It's a quick OpenSCAD that don't take in account some important aspects to make the models easyly printable. Take a look to the instructions and the scad script itself for more info.

Some more pictures: flickr.com/photos/aubenc/sets/72157628926382411/

Has that happened to you?

When a bot is connected to a computer via USB, and the bot is powered on, the LCD on your Gen 4 Interface is corrupted or blank, requiring a press of the reset button to fix.

Don't wear out your reset button or fumble in the dark for that elusive button!

Instead solder a single wire to your V2.4 Motherboard and run V2.3 or higher of my firmware, then all your troubles will melt away.

As this isn't something you print, if you build it, please click on "I Made One" and submit a picture of your Gen 4 LCD Interface or soldering.

This Splicer tool is an improvement on my previous version and is now more portable and capable of splicing long lengths of 3mm PLA filament.

This template makes it easy to create George Hart's 72 pencil sculpture. georgehart.com/sculpture/pencils.html

This is for mounting an Airport extreme vertically on the wall.

I made a larger one and a smaller one. I've tried my best to make it strong and not use and a ton of plastic. I think it came out pretty well. Currently printing the large version and its taking forever. I'll post pictures of the final result when its done.

I'm including the Solidworks Assembly file for anyone who might find it useful. The parts are saved inside of it.

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

This is a single head taken from Rebel's Easter Island Moai Statues goo.gl/namKU found on Google's 3D Warehouse as a simple test for exporting STLs from Sketchup and processing models in Netfabb Cloud. The object has been printed on a Cupcake with Sanguinololu running Sprinter/Printrun/SFACT.

A dualstruder-compatible duct that diverts some air from the extruder fan so that it blows on the nozzle. This should help plastic cool faster, which again should lead to better bridges.

I took my original design and slimmed it down. It's still plenty stable, and shows off the heart much better. Also has the benefit of printing faster.

Storage system for storing various things. Developed from the simpler parametric compartment box by adding two new cool features: (optional) rounding of all compartment corners to prevent the pesky nuts and bolts from hiding in the corners to avoid being used, and handles plus some new OpenSCAD modules for creating a cabinet of drawers.

A little sci fi, a little retro - this television brings a little entertainment to our extra-stellar journey. My only concern is that children might not actually recognize this vintage device as a TV :) 1:18 Scale

I liked jetty's new buttons, but I thought the X's looked too much like H's, and I like symbols better anyway, so this is the result.

Alligator clip

A wedge shaped tool that can be used to help separate objects from the HBP. Razors often catch the Kapton tape ending up with having to replace the tape on the HBP. This tool doesn't damage the tape.

If you have trouble getting an edge, then start off a corner of the object with the razor, then finish off removing the object with this removal tool. I find this razor holder to be the best: thingiverse.com/thing:4210

Print at 100% fill, so that it will be strong.

This tool can also double up for mixing glue and smoothing things etc.

Depending on how much abuse you put this tool through, the first (thinest) layer may get chewed up. I generally trim this first layer when this happens and continue to use the tool.

Replacement buttons for the Gen 4 LCD Interface. No Dual Extrusion needed !

To print in 2 colors, use the new "Automatic Pause at Z Position" feature, which will allow you to pause during printing at the appropriate point and change filament.

This feature can be found in the new Gen 4 firmware: thingiverse.com/thing:15380

Pimp your bot ! These instructions detail how to build software controllable RGB Mood Lighting for your ToM. The mood light is controllable via a new menu on the Gen 4 LCD Interface or via GCodes in ReplicatorG.

Your bot can now show it's build status via the color of the mood light.

Video (showing functionality):
youtube.com/watch?v=g3D0ScY6-dg
Video (mood light to music):
youtube.com/watch?v=FQDFPfnHu9o

Additionally, you can set your own RGB color, pick from a predefined list. Also you can pick animated color scenes, for example a Thunderstorm complete with Lightning flashes or signal S.O.S.

This is a beginners level project, with a tiny bit of soldering, and is designed for ToM Motherboard V2.4 (the version currently shipping).

Required parts are a BlinkM MaxM, RGB Led Strip, a couple of resistors and some bits and pieces you likely have lying around. (full parts list in the pdf).

You'll also need:

- The new Gen 4 Firmware: thingiverse.com/thing:15380
- BlinkM MaxM Holder: thingiverse.com/thing:15374

Paste extruder based on the Moineau pump principle.

The pump geometry is based on thingiverse.com/thing:7958

Should work as a plug-in replacement for a hot plastic extruder in a 3D printer. However, I have NOT used this to actually print anything. I'm just publishing it in case someone else wants to try it out. (I think it's ready for printing a very small pizza without toppings, but beyond that I cannot say.)

Almost everything is parametrized and adjustable from the SCAD file. However, the resulting design should be evaluated to see if it is still sane after adjustment, since not all of the features are automatically calculated. Particularly the flange and driveshaft diameters must be adjusted by hand to match the other measurements.

See it in action: youtu.be/OHQiKuQvuEU

Note: obviously it is impossible to build an object from material that flows on it's own - the object would not hold it's shape. So in practice the material has to either be pulled into the extruder by a negative pressure (impossible with PLA printed pump parts) or pushed into the extruder by a positive pressure. In either case the motor axle has to be sealed, or it would either relieve the negative pressure or allow the material to flow up and out from the inlet block.

Request: If you use this firmware, please take the time to click on "I Made One" with a picture of your bot or lcd.

This firmware took 1 month to write and is time I've donated to make the Gen 4 LCD Interface what it should have been.

Because this isn't something printable, the best appreciation you can show for this work is to encourage others to use it by keeping it on the Thingiverse front page. Thanks to those who have done this already.

This is a major Motherboard firmware upgrade for the Gen 4 LCD Interface, to enable true standalone operation.

Supports: ThingOMatic, Cupcake, Reprap and Others.

An older video showing some of the features in V1.0: youtube.com/watch?v=ONPvZaEAoBQ

** NEW ** Firmware Manual: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware

This firmware contains many new features, some of which are: extruder control, preheat, profiles, calibration, multicolored printing, mood light, buzzer and build time estimation.

Feature list: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc3

Requirements: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc1

Latest Changes: (Version 2.5 - 01/25/12): wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc33

Any updates will be placed here, so check back often.

Note: This is not an official Makerbot firmware release.

Some variations on a simple Rhino/Python script, which was taken from the Rhino/Python primer. Boolean intersected with some variously sized spheres.

The size is more like a ring right now, you'll want to scale it up to something reasonable :)

Laser scanned shell.

Nextengine laser scanned shell

A pen holder that looks like a pimped up Vespa PX... :-)

I just made a few changes to this awesome scan - making a flat bottom, resized, and repositioned it.

Would make an awesome chess piece...

Medieval sort of throne. Suitable for Kings or Queens.