Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:74322

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=74322

Here is the unfolded LED lantern cube design with Open Source Hardware (OSHW) and RepRap logos that I was printing with PLA on tissue paper at this year's Maker Faire NYC 2012.

Variant of the Bukobot Fly to print with PLA directly on tissue paper.

It's a work in progress, but this is the one I was printing at World Maker Faire 2012.

Little Jack'o'Lantern Pumpkins sized to fit 5mm (5.5mm inner hole diameter) and 10mm (10.5mm inner hole diameter) LEDs.

This spool holder uses a section of 5/8" copper pipe cut to length, capped with an insert to lock the spool in place.

The default STL is sized to fit the smaller spools that Voxel Factory (a relatively local to me, Montreal-based source for plastic) uses. The smaller of the spools they use has a 30mm inner hole diameter.

Sometimes you have an itch you just... can't... reach.

Enter, The TinkerScratch! It's Tinker Toy rod compatible *and* a back scratcher!

Don't like bullets? (I don't.)

Don't have any bullets on you? (Nope.)

Let folks know it with this No Bullets pendant.

For all your Raceway Target practice needs!

Still refining the code, but it works!

DXF profiles created by Matt Griffin (mifga)!

Notes:
- Froggie:
- May need to set shells=0 to slice Froggie for the thin scarf and leg sections.

Changelog:
2011/09/16:
- Added Froggie (Cleaned) using thing:11578 source.
- Added SpookyCat and ChickenCrossesTheRoad.

The little nubs that push the handle down to engage the power switches had worn down too much. No power!

I measured out the internal dimensions of the cavity in their injection-molded handle part and whipped up this insert to get it running again.

As we were wandering around the Royal Ontario Museum, I spied this scrawny little critter and thought to myself, "I must take a bunch of photos of this scrawny little critter."

So I did. That bunch of photos is at:
flickr.com/photos/aplumb/sets/72157627212309301/

Then I bundled them up and passed them thru my3dscanner.com/ to generate the attached colour 3D point cloud. The only filtering I did was remove some fragments of other skeletons that were picked up in the process.

Cleaned up the SketchUp source to the point where the STL can be cleaned in netfabb and come out the other end as one shell.

My first attempt at taking a set of photos and sending them thru my3dscanner.com to generate a point cloud.

I removed the windshield for scanning.

Observations:
- the reflections off the semi-glossy black surface show up as "deep" points right under the land speeder.
- lesson: matte surfaces are better
- shadows make for empty zones, particularly under the rear jets.
- lesson: lighting matters
- closeup photos don't help
- lesson: take more photos at a distance instead of up close.

...much of which is captured in the my3dscanner.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=5:general-scanning-guide&Itemid=59 - General Scanning Guide, it's just interesting to see how not following those tips affects the final result.

I whipped up a little OpenSCAD script to parametrically generate the new Open Hardware Logo.

Source: github.com/clothbot/OSHW

Update 2011/04/07 21:38: I tweaked the 3D coin model after doing some test prints and have updated the .scad and .stl files accordingly.

Update 2011/04/09 14:37: I cleaned up the gear_tooth_2d() to be a simple polygon.

My daughter wasn't happy with the limited configuration options for her Automoblox vehicle parts, so I whipped up this little connector to mate socketed parts to socketed parts.

Git repository: github.com/clothbot/makerbot/tree/master/fabjects/Toys/Automoblox

Once upon a time, the original clips that held a faceplate to the cabinet in our bathroom broke. I'd tried designing and printing off a replacement back in my early MakerBot Cupcake days, but it didn't quite work out.

I finally got around to redesigning it in OpenSCAD, printing off a pair and re-installing that faceplate.

Source files can be found at GitHub:
github.com/clothbot/makerbot/tree/master/fabjects/Household/FaceplateClip

I created this model to speed up how I go about calibrating my Thing-O-Matic and associated skeinforge settings.

It consists of the following parts:

- One comb-shaped structure aligned on the X axis with teeth spaced 0.1mm to 10mm apart in 0.1mm increments.

- One comb-shaped structure aligned on the Y axis with teeth spaced 0.1mm to 10mm apart in 0.1mm increments.

- One short square for checking fill algorithms.

- One 608 bearing scale ring (OD: 22mm, ID:8mm, Height: 7mm) for checking inner hole diameter.

Source is maintained at github.com/clothbot/makerbot/blob/master/tests/thingomatic/spaces/test_spaces.scad

This variant of my Z-axis threaded rod locking bearing bracket is coded in OpenSCAD and has captive nut holes in the "top" so it can be mounted upside-down, under the top panel and save you some grief when tightening the retaining bolts.

No wrenches required!

Revision controlled source can be found at: github.com/clothbot/makerbot/blob/master/upgrades/z_bracket_simple_nuts.scad

Keeping track of the subtle difference between M3 x 10mm vs M3 x 12mm can be a challenge on the best of days. Accidentally mix them up and you're occupied for the next hour fumbling through the pile with a ruler for the closest match.

Save yourself some grief and print off one (or more) of these reference cards to assist with your Thing-O-Matic assembly!

They should cover all the bolt sizes used in the Thing-O-Matic itself, the Automated Build Platform (V2) and Plastruder MK5.

Trying to design something in QCAD for Ponoko fabrication? Here's the flow I've used to generate Ponoko-compatible SVG files.

Created for use with QCAD.
- Tested on Mac OS X
- Should work in Linux as-is.
- Probably need to install Cygwin on Windows to use "sed"
- May be adaptable for other 2D CAD tools.

I've chosen the Public Domain license so no one has to do silly things like credit me every single time they use the DXF files because it's a "derivative work". You're welcome to do so, but it's not expected.

Aside: I wrote this a while ago but forgot to publish it. Better late than never!

This is a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:2967

I saved the SVG out of InkScape as DXF and cleaned it up in QCad so it would extrude cleanly in OpenSCAD.

The STL is just the pattern scaled down by a factor of 10 (now 2mm trace width) and subtracted from a 10mm*20mm slab.

The license was CC-By-NC-SA.

Aside: I'll drop the license to CC-By-SA if the source decides at some point to do the same. I try to restrict my own "NC" license usage to finished designs, not building blocks. Much more infectious that way. ;-)

The license is now is now inherited CC-By-SA!

Aside 2: License updated to reflect CafeT's change. Let the infections begin!

Dremel Flex-Shaft + MakerBot + MakerBeam + OpenSCAD = (Micro CNC Mill | Drill Press)

Expect future refinements, but this is the first version that works on my Batch 1 MakerBot.

Getting some designs laser cut and wondering what to do with the unused space? Why not fill it with something fun like Lego-compatible blocks?

Note: I have not confirmed these work. I just wanted to fill up some space on a heated build platform design I'm hoping to send off to Ponoko shortly.

Update 2009/12/11: I uploaded the QCAD DXF (LCBlockFiller.20091210.dxf) and source SVG (LCBlockFiller.20091210.inkscape.svg) I sent off to Ponoko to figure out the service and exercise my QCAD+Inkscape design flow. QCAD calculates the total length of the "CuttingLines_0p003mm" layer geometry as 10931.7mm (~430.4"). Note: I created this file by laying down 8mm-spaced grid lines and placing peg outlines at the center of each so I wouldn't get double-counting of internal lines.

Update 2010/01/04: Test print from Ponoko arrived! I need to take some measurements and tweak designs to better accommodate the laser's kerf.

Disclaimer: LEGO is a trademark of the LEGO Group and these explorations are in no way associated with LEGO Group. Heck! The files are CC-licensed; nothing to stop them embracing and extending it themselves if they so chose! ;-)

I designed this section of Toy Train Track for MakerBot printing. It's compatible with the Thomas, Ikea and Brio brand wood toy train tracks.

For larger objects, getting raft and lower layers to stay stuck can be a challenge. Earlier simple copies had serious warpage issues, so I changed to a lattice structure. This gives the lower layers a chance to flex and cool independent upper geometry. There was still some separation of the raft from the build platform, but it was minor compared to previous iterations.

The main track portion of the fabject is 54mm long and 40mm wide. Total length is 72mm.

Note: The socket-side tends to be a bit tight with some track; you may need to widen the hole for a looser fit.

This bracket is intended to be a printable replacement for the laser-cut brackets used for the threaded z-axis rods.

The side-mount bolts pass through captive nuts to lock the bearing (608-style skate bearing) in place, removing the need for precisely aligning the nuts holding the bearing in vertical position on the threaded z-axis rods. It also may allow for easier removal of the z-axis rods themselves when combined with the revised U-shaped z-platform Small Makerbot Parts (thing:926).

Note 1: My test ABS print is quite tight around the bearing so the inner radius may need to be increased by 0.1mm or so.

Note 2: The 20090928 variant increases the inner radius surrounding the bearing by 0.5mm. A 1mm ring has been added to the top to strengthen the tear-drop, side-mount bolt holes.

Note 3: Download the LaserCut variant if all you have is a laser cutter.

Parts of the Cupcake design were used to design this part so License is inherited GNU GPL.

How do you make a great idea like Makerbot-printable (clothing) buttons better?

Why, make them Lego Compatible! Naturally.

Update 2009/10/04: In the design files, the knobs are 5mm in diameter. I remeasured my source Lego disc after getting back some Shapeways test prints and the Lego knobs are actually closer to 4.8mm in diameter. I lucked out with my MakerBot-printed buttons; shrinkage brought them down to about 4.9mm in diameter. The Shapeways printed versions are more accurate, 5.00mm diameter, +/- 0.05mm. There's enough give in the plastic materials for them to still fit 'regulation size' lego blocks, but the metal one was simply too wide a diameter.

Update 2009/11/07: I've been playing around with OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/) and came up with the attached DiscButton_20091107 variation. I even added bottom "sockets" to this variation. It's almost too easy when it's all code!

Disclaimer: LEGO is a trademark of the LEGO Group and these explorations are in no way associated with LEGO Group. Heck! The files are CC-licensed; nothing to stop them embracing and extending it themselves if they so chose! ;-)

This is a work-in-progress (not fabricated/prototyped yet), exploring how to design a CNC/laser cuttable extruder head assembly for Makerbot/CandyFab applications.

- Target material is 0.9mm thick steel/aluminum as provided by ponoko.com/
- Routed channels are 1mm or 2mm wide
- Bolt-holes are 2mm in diameter.

- The pieces are to bolt together, then heater wire wrapped around the indented sides.
- Material is fed from the top; air from the side ports.
- If a magnetic material like steel is chosen for the Upper Plate, air feeds could be magnetically attached.

- Total design height is 70mm to allow for three stages of heater-wire wrap for graduated heating temperatures.
- Removing one or two of the stages would shorten the height by 16mm or 32mm respectively.

- License set to Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons. Feel free to adapt and make money off it as long as you share your mods!