Here is "InMoov", the robot you can print and animate. You have a 3D printer, some building skills, This project is for you!!

Remember this all these parts are under a non-commercial license, see the terms.

This is the head (obviously) which is controlled and assembled to the rest of the body, see for the parts on my blog.
There is a jaw mechanism and eyes mechanism which can be added or not.

inmoov.blogspot.com

A bit of history videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=JztSQpwZaRU

youtube.com/watch?v=zvbNcuUPHyQ

youtube.com/watch?v=BAs2F4sFVdA

Last of all:
youtube.com/watch?v=tojIdfywYVI

A simple little device to get you introduced to the world of InMoov.
With this it should get you going easily to comprehend how to use an Arduino, a servo, and a robot finger.

This is going to be fun, if you never tried an Arduino and a servo together, we are going to make things very simple for you to learn.

First a tuto for to assemble and print this baby InMoov and then a video tuto on how to start MRL in a very simple way to start playing with this.

Once you understand how to control this toy, you should be ready, mentaly, to build the complete robot...(Mmmh maybe not, we will see)

A little video:
youtu.be/ZDbfrYfLwQE

Here is "InMoov", the robot you can print and animate. You have a 3D printer, some building skills, This project is for you!!

Don't be scared or intimidated, I started this a few months ago and didn't even know what was Arduino or a servo motor!

Start with printing the hand like I did, and go on the rest if you feel.
thingiverse.com/thing:17773

Well it's been a long journey creating this shoulder, I have gone through quite many prints for to finally release it.

Blog with more info and instructions:
inmoov.blogspot.com
inmoov.blogspot.fr/p/assembly-help.html

These videos aren't all actual, I have modified some parts in between:
youtube.com/watch?v=W62Wfz1xqYg
youtube.com/watch?v=tojIdfywYVI
youtube.com/watch?v=BAs2F4sFVdA
youtube.com/watch?v=kqG7vASU1YE

A small planetary gears system with a ratio of 4:1 per stage, as many stages as wanted, small, open enclosure to see the gears, and hardware free.

The gears are designed with a circular pitch of 2.5mm and they are also slightly beveled at the tips of the teeth to avoid the need of cleaning the excess of material from the firsts layers.

The OpenSCAD is not parametric, there's only parameters for clearance (set to 0.2), backslash (set to 0.1), pressure angle (set to 22.5), tolerances between nuts and bolts (set to 0.4) and length of the bolts, sometimes referred as rods. Any other change will not work.

To play with the OpenSCAD you will need the following libraries:

Public Domain Involute Parameterized Gears by LeemonBaird
thingiverse.com/thing:5505

Poor man's openscad screw library
thingiverse.com/thing:8796

Knurled surface finishing library
thingiverse.com/thing:9095

The libraries have been included in the ZIP file together with STL files for every single part, build plates for complete sets from 1 to 4 stages, just the crank and upgrade kits from 1 stage to 2, 3 or 4.

1 minute video: youtu.be/MUH0MGP7AGc

A shorter video (59") featuring a 10 stages set: youtube.com/watch?v=FyVZ31tLGCU&feature=plcp

More Pics: flickr.com/photos/aubenc/sets/72157629731990190/

I liked hugomatic's thing, but it needed pins oriented sideways and separate from the links.

this is a simple Horn for a servo to merge with the ROFI project.

Every servo comes with slightly different sets of horns. Here are two adapters. The thicker one hpefully covers the span on the back of the servo to the bearing.

Chain tracks for your various project

Here is "InMoov", the robot you can print and animate. You have a 3D printer, some building skills, This project is for you!!

Don't be scared or intimidated, I started this a few months ago and didn't even know what was Arduino or a servo motor!

Start with printing the hand like I did, and go on the rest if you feel.
thingiverse.com/thing:17773

Well it's been a fun time creating this bicep, I have gone through quite many prints for to finally release it.

Blog with more info and instructions:
inmoov.blogspot.com
inmoov.blogspot.fr/p/assembly-help.html

This video isn't actual, I have modified many parts since then:
youtube.com/watch?v=XAcGlytxPVI
youtube.com/watch?v=BAs2F4sFVdA

The latest video:
youtube.com/watch?v=kqG7vASU1YE

This is a universal paste extruder for RepRap and other 3D printers.

It allows you to experiment with various pastes on your 3D printer without the need for any air compressor equipment or valves etc.
It simply uses the existing Extruder motor output from your printer’s electronics.

It's designed to fit on the Quick-Fit X Carriage Thing 19590-

thingiverse.com/thing:19590

And it will also fit on Prusa and Greg style X carriages.

7th-4-2012- Split and added Gear set on two plates for Cupcake and smaller build-bed machines.

11-April - Uploaded Sketchup Source files (sorry for the delay)
I challenge you to make one that works with 50ml Syringes! or do a fully parametric version in SCAD :)

And a very big thank you to Greg Frost (and derivatives) for the wonderful work done on the Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears script, without this, the gear set would have taken me a lot more time to make.
thingiverse.com/thing:3575

This is the left hand robot "InMoov", derivative of the right hand, I have already done.

For more parts and info, see thingiverse.com/thing:17773

Blog under construction, see
inmoov.blogspot.com

youtube.com/watch?v=r_rQ2WJ0dq4

youtube.com/watch?v=JztSQpwZaRU

youtube.com/watch?v=zvbNcuUPHyQ

youtube.com/watch?v=BAs2F4sFVdA

Last of all:
youtube.com/watch?v=tXYF6yY1c9M

Makerbot-printable derivative of the DogBot.

Here is "InMoov", the robot hand you can print and animate. You have a 3D printer, some building skills, This project is for you!!

This is a hand built for a job (still picture commercial), it was supposed to be mobile but not animated and mostly be able to take human hand positions. Cables or fishing rods might be added in order to control it, but it was not the purpose of this work at first. I am now working on another model(for the fun), trying to animate it, I really would like to do it with computer control but I have never worked in that field. Never used servo's before, so any help is welcomed.

Blog under construction, see:
inmoov.blogspot.com

A first movement video. I have to say that this video was not easy to do. I was holding the camera with one hand and trying to trigger the rods with the other.
I definitly need three hands!
youtube.com/watch?v=r_rQ2WJ0dq4

youtube.com/watch?v=JztSQpwZaRU

youtube.com/watch?v=zvbNcuUPHyQ

youtube.com/watch?v=BAs2F4sFVdA

Last of all:
youtube.com/watch?v=tojIdfywYVI

There is also the left hand model for the one that plan to make a complete robot, Arf, still quite a bite of work though.
thingiverse.com/thing:18939

This is the Quantum ORD Bot. It is 3D printer mech platform made from MakerSlide linear bearing. It is extremly ridged and very easy to build. The design can easily be scaled in X,Y and/or Z by simply changing the Makerslide lengths plus belt and leadscrew lengths. This is the mini or 'Quantum' version. The parts other than MakerSlide are either off the shelf standard items or easily fabricate with a laser cutter, 3D printer or CNC router. There is a blog post giving a lot more detail.

buildlog.net/blog/2012/01/the-quantum-ord-bot/

As a reference point, this size uses less than $15 worth of Makerslide extrusion. You also need about $45 worth of MakerSlide wheels, spacers, etc. The Makerslide parts are available at the MakerSlide store. Be aware the rail is released in weekly 'production batches' and sells out very quickly. It is 'restocked' on weekly basis.

I have attached the complete 3D design in STEP format plus a DXF of the flat parts. If I can generate enough interest, I may have about 50 sets of parts fabricated and offer kits. That would be for the mechatronics platform only. The extruder, electronics, etc would not be included.

Why spend $200 for a set of printed parts when you can have everything you see here, including motors, belts, pulleys for about $200?

Planned changes.
1. I plan to change the crossbar handle thing to an extrusion to make it more scalable.
2. The 'quantum' design currently uses NEMA14 motors. I plan to tweak the parts to be compatible with NEMA17. This just adds a second pattern to some parts.

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

20mm Plastic T-Slot - Rev 2
Completely redesigned; the new beam prints faster and is stronger both against deflection and torsion.

UPDATE: Added DXF of Profiles. Naming convention is [dimensions]-[bolt size]-[Wall Thickness]-[Multiplier]. We are starting to prefer 1pt6 (1.6) wall thickness profiles and find printing them No Infill, 1 Extra Loop, No solid Layers, with a trace thickness of .8mm results in a quick and adequetly strong beam.

These beams are being designed as the main structural component for a 3d printer though arguably they are of more use as a general hobby framing and mounting set. That said they are designed with both printing and commercial extrusion in mind.

If printed in ABS, they can be solvent welded with the aid of a T-Slot Welding Jig thingiverse.com/thing:13598 and ABS Glue thingiverse.com/thing:14490 . A center hole increases the beams second moment of inertia while aiding in fusing beams.

PLA beams are more rigid though they are not as easy to fuse into various lengths.

Hardware
An example of Friction Fit hardware is located -
Here - thingiverse.com/thing:9797
& Here - thingiverse.com/thing:13599

The standard beam profile is meant to accommodate both M3 hardware as well as 6-32 nuts and bolts. Both bolt heads or nuts will fit in the slot with an insert provided to help guide and captive M3 nuts. 6-32 Nuts will captive natively.

Alternative profiles are provided for M4 / 8-32 hardware as well as dedicated M3 and 6-32. All profiles are located in "20mm Profiles - Printing.skp" Use the 'Push/Pull' tool to create a profile of the desired length.

If the printing instructions are followed, these beams can be printed fast (going at even a moderate pace we're able to produce all the beams needed for a Prusa in under 12 hours). While the beams can technically be printing with any working profile, they will not print as quickly and may not perform as intended structurally.

Files
100mm Beam.stl - actual height is 101mm to allow for loss during welding
20mm Test Beam.stl - shorter for testing settings
M3 Nut Insert.stl - use with metric hardware
20mm Profile-Printing.skp - profile faces for printing and creating different heights
20mm Profile-True.skp - diagram of a properly printed profile
20mm Profile-Printing-pt4.skp - profiles based on 0.4mm widths, contains a M5 profile
M3 Nut Insert.skp - source file for insert

Check Back For
T-slot Profiles for Thing-O-Matic, Ultimaker & Mosaic at various resolutions, speeds.
OpenScad version to ease design of compatible hardware and accessories.

While I was waiting the 4 weeks for my Thing-O-Matic to arrive, I was thinking of all sorts of improvements for it before I even built it. One thing I knew I wanted to do was to integrate the Gen4 Interface directly into the machine. So I designed a new mounting for it so it is on a hinged panel that swings out the front when needed....and closes back up into the bot when not used. There is plenty of space in the electronics area for the interface parts to fit, even with the 2 stepper drivers mounted right behind it.

I used the original Gen4 Interface PCBA and LCD panel, and just remounted them on parts I printed with the Thing-O-Matic. I designed the hinge to have detents so it holds the panel in place when pushed all the way in or pulled out. I am using blue tape a pull handle until I decide what kind of permanent handle to print and mount.

I think it just gives the bot a more finished look, but does not change any actual functionality.