Egg cup for medium sized chicken eggs with decorative hearts pattern

This is a 3 by 3 array of circle knots. The base unit comes from this website: cs.duke.edu/~edels/Tubes/knots/circ/index.html

this is a proof of concept in the use of driving more than 2 filaments (3 here) using 2 motors. one motor drives the filament while the other drives a cam that pushes the filament into the drive shaft.
i am currently preparing to test this, but wanted to get it out there. current issues are that is does not have good access to the drive mechanism for cleaning or feeding filament and that much of it was designed to be machined instead of printed. the side plates are to big for a cupcake, but i ws able to print a few of the pieces on one. it may also not be compatible with other motors until there is a redesign, as the motors are integral to its strength.
if anyone has improvements, let me know.
EDIT: added an IGES assembly file(let me know when you find its broken, and how to fix it) and SW2005 part and assembly files. also added an exploded image
EDIT: lookes like this has been worked on a bit already by wildseyed thingiverse.com/thing:10783 . not sure if i should list it as derivative.
Finally got more than 1 hot end functional at a time, so to check out the filament drive in action see youtu.be/CVaYHlLkvWM
and youtu.be/yqAGEqaoPg4


it works! all 3 filaments running:
youtu.be/po8KyagUsY4
youtu.be/-X-azhcsqdM

Forward Brave Astronauts!

Journey into the farthest reaches of the Cosmos and be among the first humans to see the wonders of our Thingiverse.

Your daring MakerBot crew risks all for science, adventure, and our distributed-manufacturing future!

Created by Thingiverse user Skimbal, designer of the Turtle Shell Racers, MakerBot Botmobile and the Gothic Cathedral Playset.

This thing is the end result of an ongoing project to manage the wires coming off the ThingOMatic Heated Build Platform. I needed to print objects which were near the maximum size of the TOM build envelope, and found that when printing at the corners of the platform the cable would frequently become pinched between the build platform or Y stage and the TOM enclosure, stalling the servos and ruining the print. I also didn't like how the cables would rub against the Y stage smooth rods and pully sometimes, and wanted to do something about a strain relief for the HBP connector.

This Thing is the result, a system of parts which completely encloses the cable and forces it to move in a predictable path that stays out of the way of the build platform and Y stage, and also acts as some degree of a strain relief for the build platform and Y axis endstop connectors. With this Thing my TOM can print objects filling the entire print volume reliably.

The chain link is anchored in three spots. The X stage end anchors to the wooden rib on the right side of the build platform. This will require a small hole to be drilled for a bolt to hold this piece in place. A zip-tie is used here to secure the HBP cable.

The centerpoint piece attaches to the right side of the Y stage. This requires removing one of the rod endcap plates and attaching the printed part in its place. This is the most annoying part of the installation as you have to partially dissassemble the end of the Y stage to get this piece in place.

The baseplate anchor is the easiest to install, it just snap-fits into the square hole in the corner of the clear plastic plate.

The cable links snap together, and can be installed after you have the anchor pieces in place. I use 9 links between the build platform and the midpoint anchor, and 10 between the midpoint and the baseplate anchor, but you may find different numbers work better for you depending on how long your cables are. Each chain link has slots where you can zip-tie the wires in place if you desire, although I haven't found that to be necessary. These chain links may also be useful by themselves in other applications where you need to control the movement of a moving cable bundle.

This Thing can be attached to an existing TOM without having to disconnect any cables in the process.

With dual extruders on a ToM, there isn't much space for some of the other nice cooling fan shrouds like thingiverse.com/thing:15430 So, this thing holds a 60mm wide fan out front and directs the air flow down under the nozzles pretty effectively.

I also threw in an awesome-tastic r.Maker face. :)

It works great, however I don't like how it obscures the view of the nozzles while it's printing. So I might re-design it so the fan is vertical instead... but then I might lose that sweet r.Maker head...

Optionally, you could just use the r.Maker head without the fan to add some style to your MakerBot and keep your fingers from hitting the extruder fans.

Here's a before and after picture of how a cooling fan can improve print quality (especially with PLA): flickr.com/photos/tbuser/6709804997/

Storage system for storing various things. Developed from the simpler parametric compartment box by adding two new cool features: (optional) rounding of all compartment corners to prevent the pesky nuts and bolts from hiding in the corners to avoid being used, and handles plus some new OpenSCAD modules for creating a cabinet of drawers.

This is a vortex amplifier, a fluidic element for amplifying a fluidic signal.

The supply flow(flow going straight into the circle) can be modulated by weaker control flow(flow going

tangent to the circle) by the control flow inducing a vortex in the chamber.

This vortex increase the resistance to flow, thus amplifying the signal from the control flow.

In short, apply flow to the control flow port and there will be less flow coming out of the output port.

This Mk7 replacement features a spring-tensioned, quick-release 623 bearing idler, and shouldn't interfere with dualstrusion. The back is also open to make it easy to clean the teeth of the drive gear.

I don't have an actual Mk7, but it seems like it will work from my test assembly with parts I had lying around, including a Mk5 gear with the wrong size hole for the stepper and 3mm filament.

Clearance on the head of the idler screw might be a problem. If so, the screw may have to be replaced with some other type of 3mm shaft. A piece of 3mm filament should work.

My wife wanted me to buy more Ikea hooks for the kitchen... As I am too lazy I decided to design the hook in openscad and print some of them!

As a bonus, I designed a parameterized Ikea hook so that the diameter, length, width and height can be easily changed

For use with Makerbots Mk7 stepstruder
though it might work with other setups.

This thing is designed to "capture" the fans excess blowing to cool the extruded material. The captured air is directed to the extruder tip and the surrounding area. This will "hopefully" allow higher quality prints and/or allow higher extruding temps with reduced sagging/slumping of the extruded material.

This should also reduce lifting prints as the temperature of the extruded material matches the surrounding parts quicker. This has held true in real life up to date.

The air flow of the print needs to be improved as it's not optimal yet but it is working and has been used successfully in small and 3+ hour prints without problems.

If some knows about internal aerodynamics and wants to pass on some tips, it would be greatly appreciated

This is the same item as hippiegunnut's thingiverse.com/thing:12307, tweaked very slightly with an optional lid added.

While going mad about the ooze of my extruder, I came about several calbibration pieces for testing ooze and retraction. After printing the nice test piece of Hardik about twenty times. I decided to make one that is sliced and printed even faster and shows several problems of ooze in one piece.

My first Robotic Hand (version 2.0) was designed with no 3d printer in mind. Version 2.0 had many shortfalls and difficulties. Since then, I've gotten a TOM and have learned how to design with its limitations and benefits in mind. I present to the 'verse Robotic Hand Version 3.0. Ver 3 requires less non-printable hardware, it requires less plastic to print, less printing time, less post-print work (very little sanding), and far less pull force is required to manipulate.

Version 3.0 Video of the Robot Hand in action:
youtu.be/7AlyGPnU6U0

Version 3.0 Flickr Set:
flic.kr/s/aHsjxvAHJg

Version 2.0 for reference:
thingiverse.com/thing:2408

This is a wobbler engine that I printed on my Reprap :)

a Wobbler engine has no power and is good for absolutely nothing (except the satisfaction of having made one) and is the most basic engine you can make I think

see it working here: youtu.be/yNW0m6YCkxA
and check out my other stuff at backyard-workshop.com

Push button.

20mm Plastic T-Slot - Rev 2
Completely redesigned; the new beam prints faster and is stronger both against deflection and torsion.

UPDATE: Added DXF of Profiles. Naming convention is [dimensions]-[bolt size]-[Wall Thickness]-[Multiplier]. We are starting to prefer 1pt6 (1.6) wall thickness profiles and find printing them No Infill, 1 Extra Loop, No solid Layers, with a trace thickness of .8mm results in a quick and adequetly strong beam.

These beams are being designed as the main structural component for a 3d printer though arguably they are of more use as a general hobby framing and mounting set. That said they are designed with both printing and commercial extrusion in mind.

If printed in ABS, they can be solvent welded with the aid of a T-Slot Welding Jig thingiverse.com/thing:13598 and ABS Glue thingiverse.com/thing:14490 . A center hole increases the beams second moment of inertia while aiding in fusing beams.

PLA beams are more rigid though they are not as easy to fuse into various lengths.

Hardware
An example of Friction Fit hardware is located -
Here - thingiverse.com/thing:9797
& Here - thingiverse.com/thing:13599

The standard beam profile is meant to accommodate both M3 hardware as well as 6-32 nuts and bolts. Both bolt heads or nuts will fit in the slot with an insert provided to help guide and captive M3 nuts. 6-32 Nuts will captive natively.

Alternative profiles are provided for M4 / 8-32 hardware as well as dedicated M3 and 6-32. All profiles are located in "20mm Profiles - Printing.skp" Use the 'Push/Pull' tool to create a profile of the desired length.

If the printing instructions are followed, these beams can be printed fast (going at even a moderate pace we're able to produce all the beams needed for a Prusa in under 12 hours). While the beams can technically be printing with any working profile, they will not print as quickly and may not perform as intended structurally.

Files
100mm Beam.stl - actual height is 101mm to allow for loss during welding
20mm Test Beam.stl - shorter for testing settings
M3 Nut Insert.stl - use with metric hardware
20mm Profile-Printing.skp - profile faces for printing and creating different heights
20mm Profile-True.skp - diagram of a properly printed profile
20mm Profile-Printing-pt4.skp - profiles based on 0.4mm widths, contains a M5 profile
M3 Nut Insert.skp - source file for insert

Check Back For
T-slot Profiles for Thing-O-Matic, Ultimaker & Mosaic at various resolutions, speeds.
OpenScad version to ease design of compatible hardware and accessories.

My son is fond of his scotch tape. He wanted a dispenser since the refills didn't fit in his old one.

The openscad file is somewhat parametric but is untested it with any other settings.

It uses syvwlch's awesome thread library ( thingiverse.com/thing:8793 )
So, you'll need that if you want to use the scad file.

Is your roll of super-wide Kapton tape lounging around, taking up space? Put it to work!

This is the first design of my KaptonCaddy! Just place your roll of tape on the base, and slide in the caddy core. It snaps together and becomes a handy carrying-case for your allen wrenches, nuts, bolts and other sundries. It has two swivel drawers, holes for tools and a basin up-top for bigger stuff.

UPDATE V1.1!

The base is now part of the body. The tape roll now acts as a sleeve to hide the drawers. If you store any over-sized things in the top (like calipers) you may need to remove them to lift the roll off.

Test print #2 on its way!

Enjoy!

This is for all you punk rockers out there... now you can DIY your own spikes! I'm working with a local fashion designer making more cool looks using 3D printed stuff, so stay tuned for more fashion-related awesome.

Well, the obvious happened. I liked StefanHH's ball and socket (5578), but was astonished to see no actual helping hands design on thingiverse, (my apology if I somehow missed an existing design). So I decided to design one.

I’ve been working on some minor laser projects, and I’ve neglected the blog long enough. Here’s a quick and easy laser treat for you.

A set of laser cut buttons! Mostly anthropomorphic, there not as engineered as a lot of my projects, but I think they are fun.

These buttons are 1/2in (12mm), but you can easily resize them to your needs.

I also have a little description of each of the buttons over at: 4volt.com/Blog/archive/2011/11/26/laser-cut-buttons.aspx

Introducing: The MakerBot Dynamo!

Ever wish you could convert some of that youthful energy into something a bit more useful? Well using the MakerBot Dynamo kit, store.makerbot.com/makerbot-dynamo.html now you can!

The MakerBot Dynamo is worlds first opens-source, human powered, energy creation device!

Just crank the handle to create real, honest, hardworking electricity.

How do you know its working? Well there's an LED that lights up or course! See your effort in action as it's converted from motion to electricity to light!

And if a LED not exciting enough for you, just think of all the other wonderful things you can power, one hand crank at a time.

See Video of the Dynamo in action: youtu.be/8Brkd5BL_gU

Feeling frivolous today. I decided to have some fun with my 3d printer. Printed in kitten size.
The zip file is Solidworks files.

This is an EVA Extruder based on a wade plastic extruder and that use a hot glue gun heater and his 12mm diameter stick (8mm on study).

It fits instead of a wade extruder on a prusa mendel.

With this I could extrude soft part made of EVA.

This design is still on modification, stay tuned.

BE CAREFULL : the hot gun heater is plugged on 220V, prefer using your hot-end heater/controller block.

This is an exactly proportional copy of the companion cube from portal, as traced from a screenshot.

There were a few cubes already on thingiverse which I've printed out dozens of, but they all had some issues with printability or proportionality. I think I've solved all the problems with this version.

This version is flat bottomed, and has no significant overhangs over 45 degrees.

It is carefully designed in Solidworks so any changes can be quickly and easily made. I also included step files since Solidworks is pretty unfriendly to a lot of other programs.

The default size is exactly 1in^3

The Cube in the thumbnail was printed by a Fablicator.
Fablicator.com

I took the antlers from thing 2586 and put them on the body of thing 11705, the result? A Squirrelalope!

A friend at our makerspace made a little engraver with some dvd burners, following this Instructable instructables.com/id/Pocket-laser-engraver/ (working surface : a bit more than a business card)

But I wanted to give it a nice structure (and maybe an enclosure later), this first version is even foldable :)

More pics and progress on our wiki :
wiki.nybi.cc/index.php/Pocket_Laser_Engraver

This is a prototype animatronic tail, OpenScan designed 3D printed on a 3D printer and controlled by Arduino.

This is a small test:
youtube.com/watch?v=d1k9p1P4s8I

I attached in a text document the code that use to control the servo with arduino.

Uses the number of vertebrae that want, i use 10 plus the final. I put a rubber cord in the side holes to keep the tail as, in the other holes, i put a normal string attached to the wheel. And so that the rope does not slip from the wheel put some small aluminum rings.

I hope you like ;)

This is a simple model of a very common clothespin that you can make on your 3D printer.