I made this chess set for my Grandfather's 90th birthday. I laser it cut it out of 3mm birch plywood and stained the dark pieces. The board is alternating etched & bare squares.

Now that I'm back from the trip, I'm getting around to posting the designs up.

I hope to make another set, maybe with etched or a scored pattern for the dark pieces, rather than having to stain them and wait for all that boring drying.

I designed it in SketchUp. First I snagged some standard looking models for chess pieces from the warehouse. Then I scaled the king to a height of 85mm and scaled the rest to match (pretty closely) the same base size as the king. I drew two 90-degree planes through each one and made them components. Then I intersected one face of the plane with the rest of the model and got the lines I wanted. I pulled out that new face to 1/2 the width of the ply and did the same to the other side. Intersecting the two parts got me the lines for the notches.

A good bit of twiddling later, I used the SVG from SketchUp faces plugin to export one face of each of the parts. I've noticed the newer version gives much smoother paths, I think there are some gaps in the current version of the files I'm uploading.

Note: I've updated the svg files using the newer version of the SVG plugin, which does a single path. It cuts much cleaner. I have not, however, updated the EPS with all the pieces laid out on a single board. I'm leaving it here, just in case someone wants it.

A set of lasercut wooden objects for teaching the decimal system.

Small cubes (1x1x1) for 1, sticks (1x1x10) for 10, squares (1x10x10) for 100 and big cubes (10x10x10) for 1000.

a swing made from scrap cardboard using a laser cutter

This is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter.

This is a drag chain for the MakerBot extruder cable (or any other cable/wires).

It keeps your extruder cable out of the Z-stage belt and let your MakerBot look professional (kind of...)

The objects need very detailed printing in order to work. You definitely want a good tuned MakerBot and Skeinforge settings to print this (don't say I didn't warn you!).

The ZIP file contains GCode files for all objects, including 6 or 8 chain links on one raft. It might be the best to skeinforge the gcode with your own, tuned settings. The included GCode files worked for me (resp. my MakerBot), but (again): these are some really hairy objects to print.

While talking to Zach I got inspired to model lego bricks in order to create custom bricks - the ones you always wanted but thought you never could get. Well now you can!

Of course it does not snap in place as nicely as original lego bricks but it should be good enough to create the custom lego piece you always wanted.

This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build.

BEWARE! there is a new license on my head: You, the one who prints my head, may only print my head in return for a nice photograph of the printed head. Simple no :)? Please send the photo to [hello AT unfold DOT be]. Thanks! ps, gathering a collection of photo's to put online

This is a 3d scan of my face.

Hope this counts for Bre's "Super bonus points to the first person to put a scanned medical image" :-)
brepettis.com/blog/2009/6/28/siamese-twins-and-sharing-3d-medical-files.html
True medical data from CAT scan is hard to make printable because it often is build up of voxels (3d pixels) and not a surface of triangles.

This build isn't finished yet. I still need the XY axis components, stepper motors, and a hardware burrito. I cannibalized the screws from my extruder to hold the thing together!

Modifications
. Electronics are mounted upside down in the bottom cavity with the power supply
. All four sides are open
. The bottom plate comes straight off after removing the screws
. Acrylic letters are where "MakerBot Industries" would normally be.

After a conversation with Adam I have been inspired to put the z axis drive system within the lower cavity.

I get the electrons inside I had to laser cut holes into the middle layer in which I put standoffs that normally hold motherboards away from computer cases. The entire bottom was redesigned, so the bottom cover can be removed without taking off the side.

While the SD card can be accessed, it does not currently do anything.

Subversion svn.makerbot.com/users/charles/muffin/

Blog: charlespax.wordpress.com/
Twitter: twitter.com/charlespax

LogiBloks is a board game to help 6-8th graders learn formal logic. The physical design of the game pieces allows children to learn formal logic and deductive reasoning without barriers of symbolic representation and syntax found in traditional formal logic curricula for older students.


LogiBloks allow children to create propositions relevant to their own lives (as opposed to working with abstract variables). The blocks will provide a tool for distributed cognition, enabling students to both construct and deconstruct complex ideas and arguments via simple manipulation.


Designed by Rodolphe Courtier, Tom Nguyen and Andy Russell

Two part hollow. Try this first. Modified to build from back so there are no overhangs.

edit: fixed by hoeken to make it printable.

This is an updated version of my previous medium format camera. I wanted to make a simple one that I was sure was going to print. The smaller size also means it'll be in better focus when used with a Holga lens and shutter assembly.

You can either just attach your own pinhole to the front or you can print out the holga attachment and mount a Holga lens and shutter assembly right on the front giving you a fully functional camera with a proper shutter.

The size of the images is going to be a little funky (3.6cm wide and 6cm tall) but it works.

Toy car with wheels that move, but requires no assembly. Here is a short video:

youtube.com/watch?v=eWW5DFWcvhE

The wheels took some effort to loosen up after printing, but they now roll quite nicely on the right surface.

Other problems:

There is definitely some warping from the plastic cooling/shrinking (I used ABS).

The transition from the wheel to the axle is a bit steep for the makerbot.

For Mothers day I made my mom a set of earings that double as a working planetary gear.

...sorry for the pun in the name.

A small desk clamp.

Works but it requires a little more super glue than I would have liked.

It was designed to be a PCB holder (the one Lady Ada uses in her instructions was the inspiration).

ladyada.net/images/usbtinyisp/tools.jpg

The base is too small making it unstable.

However I just finished printing it and it works!

To make it you will also need.

3/8 (5mm will do as well) threaded rod and some square nuts.
Square brass tubing ( 3.9 mm ) and the size that fits just inside that.

Needs some more work:

Bigger base , maybe multipart
Better way to hold the clamps

The tar file contains the blend , photos and all the stl files.

This is the Sanguino board. It is an Arduino compatible board based on the atmega644P. This page will tell you how to assemble one, probably from a kit that you bought somewhere. Once you are done, you'll have a sweet little board you can use for prototyping, hacking, or even for a permanent project.

The Sanguino has some awesome features like:

* 64K of flash space
* 4K of RAM
* 2K of EEPROM
* 2 hardware serial ports
* 32 GPIO pins
* 6 PWM pins
* 8 analog pins
* I2C, SPI, etc.

Sarrus linkage linear bearing

This is an implementation of the Sarrus linkage that may be useful for reprap type machines. It is made from ABS printed on my repstrap, with 1/16" (1.6 mm) brass rods for the hinge pins and 4-40 screws to hold the spine sections together. The hinge pin holes were chased with a 1/16 drill bit, and the screw holes with a 1/8" bit. The two ends are made of one center block cut in half with a saw, and there are some other holes that were drilled rather than printed.

It has a total swing of 100 mm. This is set by the length of the spine, and could easily be 110 mm. It moves very smoothly, and was stiffer than I thought it would be. The center block only moves down about 0.2mm with a 460 gram payload. Interestingly the droop is about the same over the whole range of motion. It stays well within 0.2mm of a straight line as it moves.

A payload (extruder?) could mount on the central block, which could be widened.

A quick spin off from TMR's Clip Test clip fastener... a fixed-length plastic tie, or bracelet.

TMR's original Thing is here:

thingiverse.com/thing:484

Had an idea for a way to print something flat, but then fold it up into the intended 3D shape. Should work well with anything conical/column-like, including, say, wings!

EDIT: I made a wing using this technique, which I've take to calling Flat-Roll... Here it is: thingiverse.com/thing:483 (I kinda forgot to make it a derivative of this one, not used to that feature working again)

This rests on the notion (or hope?) that if you print something sufficiently thin, it will bend without snapping. (Might need to heat the piece?) If this is true, you can split your 3D shape into flat sections and unroll it, print it, and then roll it back up.

This may not be the best way to do this, but I connected each section in this first experiment with just a face, no thickness... I'm hoping Skeinforge will automatically print that with the thinnest layer it can, but I don't really know.

EDIT2: Nophead returned some experience and pointed out that zero-thickness faces won't print at all. Luckily, this is easily fixable since that big, flat underside is easily adjustable with a push-pull or extrude command in most CAD programs. Here's a variation that shows this: thingiverse.com/thing:485

EDIT3: Jay Swift pointed out that you could print this out onto a sheet of flexible plastic without adjusting the thickness at all. You would then trim the sheet prior to rolling the whole thing up.

If this is workable, future improvements would include centering pins on the contact faces between each section... perhaps even some kind of latching mechanism.

An openly designed Creative Commons Licensed robot.

Note: New Version (Beta 2.1) posted 06/05/2009

New features: 12 legs instead of 8, "drop-in" center platform, 1:1.8 ratio gears, many small changes.

I only update this listing for major revisions of the walker, it's possible there's a minor revision posted at my site that is not here: 4volt.com/projects/jansen/

What you see here is the Jansen walker, a laser-cut robot, based on the Jansen Mechanism. It has 12 legs and scuttles similar to a crab walking sideways. The brain is a Arduino, and the legs are powered by 2 micro-servos modified for continuous rotation.

This project is heavily influenced by Theo Jansen's natural gearing mechanism, it’s a very efficient mechanical leg design for converting rotary motion into leg movements, and is very elegant in my opinion. The basis is the relative distance of the 12 joins, Jansen calls them "The 12 Holy Numbers". The numbers were developed with a genetic algorithm. In a couple of interviews that he wrote the evolver on a Atari STe computer and it took literally months of 1990’s processing power to find the solution.

For more info on Theo Jansen as well as some video and pictures see strandbeest.com.

I've marked this as non-commercial creative commons licensed, but it would be very easy for anyone get me to license a commercial version to almost anyone. For the most part I would just like to make sure I agree with the usage, and make sure I am aware of it.

See vimeo.com/4221721 for a video of the motion.
The home for this project is 4volt.com/Projects/Jansen/

Also, if you don't have a laser cutter, but would like a set of laser cut parts for this project see: 4volt.com/donate.aspx#jansen

Perhaps one of the funnest projects we have attempted around the .:oomlout:. offices. A five degrees of freedom robotic arm. While we have spent many hours twisting knobs to move pop cans from one point on our desk to another sadly it has not progressed much further.
The main reason for this is the sum total of math knowledge around the oomlout.com offices is about 4 (don't ask us to show our work on how we calculated this) so inverse kinematics is well beyond our reach.

We are releasing it in an imperfect form in the hope that the clever Thingiverse denizens will be able to make it better.

Why this isn't quite ready for sale:
-We lack any inverse kinematics program which makes moving the arm intelligently nearly impossible.
-Without software limits on the servos it is capable of stripping the low cost hobby servo motors (this is alright for testing as they are only five dollars) (we have stripped two in the life of our arm and both happened when we were asking it to do silly things) (this can be fixed by upgrading the servos)
-We haven't completed the 3d model or assembly instructions just yet, but by studying the photos it is possible to assemble. (think more jigsaw puzzle than lego set)
-The gripper, lets just say the gripper needs a little work.

That said it is an amazingly fun toy to play around with, and a good starting point if anyone has ever had a desire to make the perfect robotic arm (it is open source so you'd be free to make and sell your own)

(shameless plug)

For more details about becoming a Robotic Arm Developer visit our blog
(http://www.oomlout.com/blog)

The first of a series of molds to be made with a makerbot to make chocolate polyhedra. Modified to lay down so there are no overhangs during build. Makes an Icosahedron 3 cm from corner to corner.