A servo lower lid for your Futaba 3003 servos. It is a parametric design, so that you can adapt it easily to your servos.

It can be used as a replacement for the servo lid if broken... but what makes this object so powerful is that you can customize it, adding more elements to the servo, like a fake shaft.

This object opens the door to the design of robot with simplified structures.

This part has been designed with the Obiscad tools for Openscad

More information (in Spanish):
iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Objeto_3D:_Tapadera_inferior_para_servos

This is a model of a one sided blank tile that should be compatible with Mighty Empire Tiles.

Earthforce and Babylon 5 badges

From the Stargate SG1 Series here is the Stargate SG1 Goauld Hatak B Class

Modeled from scratch using a 123D Catch scan of a K9 toy someone put up here on Thingiverse (that for some reason I can't find right now) for reference. Some details were just ignored in the interest of making it printable on a small scale.

EDIT: MK2 prints better at small sizes. The ears don't break off.

This is an accessory for the NOT Terminator.

Largish buckle made for a pirate costume.

Yo,

This is my attempt to build a low cost 4 servo Arduino Uno controlled bipedal robot that is framed with inexpensive 3D printed “I Braces”; that can hold a standard servo and interconnect with additional braces to form various modular structures.

My goal in this project was to:

A. Show my 3yr old daughter that you can make anything you put your mind to!
B. Not break the bank (wife mandated)
C. Only run on 4 servos (to start with)
D. Stand >= 10” tall
E. Leave room for upgrades/reworks without scrapping parts
F. Give live commands to the biped
G. Communicate wirelessly (I have lots of extra Android phones laying around)

Watch it in action @:
instructables.com/id/MegaPed/

This is a Geared Peristaltic pump, designed for 3D printers to enable them to extrude various materials for building objects.

It's a work in progress, updates will follow, but the basic principle is up-and-running.

This Pump is designed to fit my Quick-Fit X Carriage - thingiverse.com/thing:19590

6-Jan-2013 - Uploaded Sketchup files

Dire Wolf (Daishi) from the classic Battletech & Mechwarrior games.

Robotic Arm created with a 3D printer by Alejandro Aguilar Romero. It consists of several modules connected with servos Futaba S3003.

You can see the arm working in the following videos:
- youtube.com/watch?v=sbEiRr2WQlk
- youtube.com/watch?v=sUzbNl0DV4Y

Comments:

1- I customized BasePesas.stl to use 2 weights I had, to make it heavy enough not to fall every time the arm moved. If you can't find anything similar to the weights, you'll just have to adjust this part in order to make 1 servo fit and hold the arm properly.

2- I only use 1 servo for each module, leaving the second one empty just to let the whole part rotate. At the moment, I don't think there's need to use 2 servos for each module and I decided to remove it because I'm not sure enough about the overheat of both servos if they try to reach the same position at the same time. In any case, it should be fine if you want to have 2 servos per module.

3- I used glue to make the gripper to servo safer (MunecaPuente to BasePinza). For the rest of the arm, I used ordinary screws. These could be printed as well.

4- I've already printed and assembled the whole project, but I'm still testing its functionality. Photos will be uploaded soon.

A seej cannon I designed to launch pennies in volleys of either one, two, three or stacks. It didn't work as well as I hoped for a stack of pennies but works wonders in launching nerf darts. Features include trigger, variable power (easily attach additional rubber bands for mroe power) and angle adjustment.

The ancestor thing is fabulous, allowing the Notepad++ editor to be used in place of the marginal OpenScad editor. That thing includes an autocomplete file, which I have expanded here a little bit. Depending upon your preferences you may or may not like it, but I have included some additional keywords, and included the opening brackets for most functions. It works for me, YMMV. To do this I had to remove the calltip functions, but there were only a few of those

A cheap & dirty derivative of Finger Wheel that puts the 5/16" hex nut recess in the face of the wheel and uses the collar as a coupler to a 1/4" stepper shaft.


Printed on a SeeMeCNC H1 with 45% infill.

This is a parametric Reprap printer based loosely on the Printrbot design. It is designed for NEMA14 motors, 6mm rods, and LM6UU bearings, though the hardware can be changed by modifying the parameters in the scad file.

The Reprap Wallace is now on github: github.com/whosawhatsis/RepRap-Wallace

There is a video of an axis test using Marlin on youtube: youtube.com/watch?v=0QrEmGlZT0w&context=C3f40eeaADOEgsToPDskJ7qwV6fvNjtb93W cpz_SHy

More documentation, pics, and video on the Reprap Wiki page: reprap.org/wiki/Wallace

My MakerBot's musical tones often set digital mood for each of my lan parties. It furiously pumps out prototypes of whatever models we throw at it between matches. Then we thought why not bring our game to life?

Nothing good ever comes from caffeine induced delusions during 4:00AM LAN parties. Well that never stopped us before. So this is the first step in creating a fully motorized robot.

I introduce to you, the Exoskeleton Crystal Harvester.

The next iteration will have drive motors and Bluetooth communication.

This is the Quantum ORD Bot. It is 3D printer mech platform made from MakerSlide linear bearing. It is extremly ridged and very easy to build. The design can easily be scaled in X,Y and/or Z by simply changing the Makerslide lengths plus belt and leadscrew lengths. This is the mini or 'Quantum' version. The parts other than MakerSlide are either off the shelf standard items or easily fabricate with a laser cutter, 3D printer or CNC router. There is a blog post giving a lot more detail.

buildlog.net/blog/2012/01/the-quantum-ord-bot/

As a reference point, this size uses less than $15 worth of Makerslide extrusion. You also need about $45 worth of MakerSlide wheels, spacers, etc. The Makerslide parts are available at the MakerSlide store. Be aware the rail is released in weekly 'production batches' and sells out very quickly. It is 'restocked' on weekly basis.

I have attached the complete 3D design in STEP format plus a DXF of the flat parts. If I can generate enough interest, I may have about 50 sets of parts fabricated and offer kits. That would be for the mechatronics platform only. The extruder, electronics, etc would not be included.

Why spend $200 for a set of printed parts when you can have everything you see here, including motors, belts, pulleys for about $200?

Planned changes.
1. I plan to change the crossbar handle thing to an extrusion to make it more scalable.
2. The 'quantum' design currently uses NEMA14 motors. I plan to tweak the parts to be compatible with NEMA17. This just adds a second pattern to some parts.

These were built specifically for my Nerf Recon CS-6. They may need to be filed down to fit other Nerf guns. Please do not aim at eyes and practice caution when using.

Second batch open on Goteo: goteo.org/project/foldarap-peer-to-peer-edition?lang=en
-
--
More on the regularly updated wiki : reprap.org/wiki/FoldaRap
More pics/vids on flickr : flickr.com/photos/watsdesign/tags/foldarap/

After 5-7 months of development, I'm now able to travel around the town/country/world with my little folding RepRap ! Which still have a 140x140x140mm build area :D

Almost every files are here (the BOM is on the wiki), and the Sketchup models for those who want to play with it :)

Github repo here : github.com/EmmanuelG/Foldarap

I started by a folding reprap the size of a Mendel, based on my VertX, then a smaller version more Huxley-transportable, and finally I'm developping this one build with aluminium t-slot extrusions. It's the first iteration of the Folding RepRap.

(main pic by Belowdesign : flic.kr/p/dW6tMP)

Have you been envious of ever-dimensionally-increasing build platforms? Well now you can claim to be able to print ONE FOOT* OF PLASTIC!

* Warning: Claim may be pun.

But seriously though, this was a test print while I continually try to get my printer to meet my unrealistically high quality expectations.

Hope you get a kick out of this!

UPDATE:
I added an approximately "full-size" model of just the top half of the foot.

I'm satisfied with the quality.

Double CO2 Holder for Mountain Bike

This is a derivative of the Kanazuchi Battle Armor by Blaar in the sketchup warehouse. sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=437c8265b8dc1d4d8f012e721fb92cd5&prevstart=0

This is the second model in my all printed warmachine army. See the first one for more details. thingiverse.com/thing:15713

This model was exceptionally well made as is. It took very little editing to get printed well. Major compliments to the original author. Other then the hands, the entire model can reasonably be printed as a single piece.

I did the slicing with SFACT other slicers were having problems. There is a "it's not a bug, it's a feature" style hollow spot in the middle of the torso.

Update 1/13/12
I've finished the first set of custom bits for him. If you're familiar with the game Warmachine I'm playing him as a proxy for the ironclad chassis warjacks. The default load out for that is a warhammer and a fist. Those are uploaded now as the iron_part1 and 2 stls. They are a bit of a rush job so far but they will do for now.

Update 1/20/12
At a friends suggestion I redid his fist. Some one yelled "He's going to get the clamps" in the Futurama voice.

Update 1/23/12
I've added another set of bits. It's a sword and buckler set. You will need to print those, the torso with legs and the clamps hand to finish the model out. The sword handle is extra long to add cooling time to the blade. I recommend trimming it when the print is finished.

Note: Warmachine and the related terms are property of privateer press. This model is not intended to actually look like or be the model they provide but is simply my proxy for it.

This is a simplification. I added the Z stop bolt mount to the X end clamp, eliminating a printed part, some hardware and a source of failure. My clip on Z stop is easy to move accidentally.
The bolt is a 6-32 x 2" and is tightened against the trapped nut. (4mm works, too.) The Z home is easily and accurately adjusted by moving the thumb nut. One turn of the 6-32 screw is .03125"
The thumb nut is self threading when you screw it on, just keep it straight.
The clamp still uses the M3 nuts in 4 places and either a M8 or 5/16" nut to match your Z lead screw.
Refer to the old version to see the improvement:
thingiverse.com/thing:13235

This is a vortex diode or Zobel diode, apply flow in one direction and it will pass fine(center port to side port), apply flow in another(side port to center port) and a vortex will be formed in the chamber increasing resistance to flow.

For more info vortex type fluidic devices and fluidic devices in general see: tippettsfountains.com/fluidicsbasics.php?width=1920&height=919

This is a vortex amplifier, a fluidic element for amplifying a fluidic signal.

The supply flow(flow going straight into the circle) can be modulated by weaker control flow(flow going

tangent to the circle) by the control flow inducing a vortex in the chamber.

This vortex increase the resistance to flow, thus amplifying the signal from the control flow.

In short, apply flow to the control flow port and there will be less flow coming out of the output port.

This is a test in order to study pinion systems to replace the belts on my printer and CNC.
youtu.be/mIUsaCh-6oU

This model is my first attempt to create an Aurora-class Starfury (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starfury) from the television show Babylon 5. I've always liked the design of this one-man fighter craft and decided that it would be a fun and challenging design project.

The included STL files were designed for efficiency of printing and assembling a single model. You can use the included OpenSCAD files to print individual parts or make modifications. I hope to make the OpenSCAD files easier to modify at some point.

Although this is a pretty good first attempt, there are several features that are not quite correct.

1. The upper supports are much simpler than they should be.
2. The forward guns are not as well-formed and sturdy as I would like.
3. The detail on the sides of the body could use some work.
4. The back of the model has no detail at all.

As my design skills improve, I hope to revisit this model.

UPDATE: The instructions have been improved and the extra thruster nozzles have been removed from the engines4 model.

This is a connector to connect two rails with a hole from a wooden railroad.

Gadget freaks need batteries... Lots of batteries!

So the sensible thing to do is to use a rechargeable batteries and to keep a stock of charged batteries ready for action.

If you like me keep your charged batteries in a drawer or box, you will know that they roll around, short one another out and of course you never have any idea as to which batteries have been charged first and last. Add in a few other items, i.e. a set of keys or two, an old spare mobile phone and charger and a few favourite take-out menus and finding those batteries during for instance a power cut becomes problematic also.

I was not happy with this and put my mind to coming up with a solution. Well here it is...

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser will create a vertical storage solution for all your cylindrical battery storage needs. It contains dimensions to create AA and AAA sized dispensers but as it is near fully parametric, you can create in theory a dispenser for just about any cylindrical battery. Limitations of your 3d Printer though are likely to restrict you to smaller battery sizes.

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser prints in two halves to make it as easy as possible to print (little to no overhangs). I found the best results were to use 50% infill and 3 additional shells on my Prusa using PLA, YMMV.

The Openscad file will generate several different styles of dispenser depending on the options you pick:

1. The simplest design that comprises just two runners. This was my original design and I have printed it. It works well enough, but I found it to be a little flimsy when secured to a vertical surface.

2. The tabbed version (main photo) which is the version I decided on using for my own battery dispensers. This is has nice broad mounting tabs at the rear of the dispenser that can be sized to match double sided sticky foam. Perfect for mounting on the inside of cupboards etc.

3. The mounting plate version (untested). This version has a mounting plate that is split into two halves, Theoretically, it should make it easier to space the two halves of the dispenser to each other but it uses more plastic and I don't think its as handsome as the others

4. Spare runners. (unfinished) These are functional, but only match the simplest design of dispenser. As I can get a reasonably sized dispenser to print on my Prusa (big enough to hold 8 AA batteries)I don't really need this now. I left it in as an option though.

5. Calibration piece. There is also an option to create a small segment of one half of the dispenser. Print this to double check that the dimensions you set print well on your printer

There are also options to add mounting holes if you are using either the tabbed or back-plated styles of dispenser. The mounting holes are nominal values right now, so you will have to set the variables to values that match your screw dimensions and printer.

I am marking this item as finished as it exceeds all my cylindrical battery vertical storage requirements but you may have other improvements you wish to make. If so I apologise for the code, I am positive it could be better optimised.

Push button.