Here is my first take on a bearinged Z stage.


You might notice that the upper bearing mount is VERY similar to clothbot's locking bearing mount. That was my inspiration. thingiverse.com/thing:1064

JohnA was kind enough to gather all of the parts into 1 large plate and 13 makerbot sized plates! Download them below!

Update: There will be a gen6 version coming out very soon, It has to do with stiffening the Z platform just a bit. You can go ahead and print the body pieces, they didn't change.

Ok, JohnA was kind enough to email me and tell me to get off my lazy butt and post the Gen6 files. The only change is the Z platform got more robust.

There are two .zip files, one has almost all of the parts as separate .stl files, one has them setup into build plates.

Here's a link to the stepper coupling that I am using. The flexible one was cool but caused more problems that it solved. thingiverse.com/thing:8565

If people need screw kits, I'll be selling them for $19 plus shipping. Send me a message.

This is a conceptual descendant of the CupcakeCNC from Makerbot.

When I originally wanted to make a CupcakeCNC, I ran into the problem that a lot of parts from Makerbot were out of stock. Since I was impatient, I ordered what parts I could (The electronics and the extruder parts) and designed up my own frame to put them in. Then I spent a year improving on it.

The major features are:

* A larger build area (about 165x175x170mm)
* A heated build platform to allow warp-free large builds
* Support for computer-less control via an LCD and keypad
* The ACME threaded rod and guide rails makes the Z axis wobble less
* Endstops on one side of each axis makes for quick and easy automatic homing/centering
* The frame and sled are built mostly from parts you can find easily on mcmaster.com

Yes, I know, I'm a heathen American for using non-metric parts, but it turns out it's a lot harder to find all the right metric parts in American hardware stores. Feh. Luckily most all the non-metric parts can be replaced by metric parts of close size without too much problem. Except the 12" slider rods. 300mm sliders rods will be 4.8mm too short.

Here's a video introduction to the Fabber Mk1:
youtube.com/watch?v=XKoIKgk9Grc

This is a high resolution .stl for a 40mm radial fan. When printed the fan has a diameter of 40mm with a height of 13mm. I attached mine to a motor with a 2mm shaft to test it out.

If you would like to see some alterations made, feel free to post your request under comments.

You can hang anything you want, but small things are best of course. Quick to make and great for the cubical.

I hang my GEEK key-chain on it. Geek key-chain from thingiverse.com/thing:4193

You can hang your ring, desk key, etc....

Since finishing my spool box my desk lamp no longer lights the platform.

I looked at lighting in Thingiverse but the solutions required parts I didnt have or the Mk4 Plastruder.

So heres my attempt using two led torches from the local store, some 15A fuse wire, and a 9.8 ohm resistor.

WARNING DO NOT CONNECT TO YOUR POWER SUPPLY WITHOUT A CURRENT LIMITING RESISTOR, IT WILL RESULT IN AT LEAST 1AMP CURRENT DRAW. (Warm cables to say the least).

And for the electrical engineers out there, yes you are not supposed to connect LEDS in parallel without individual resistors.
Although you can get away with it if they are the same type of LEDS in my mind (thus I bought 2 off same type torches).

Now you don't have to worry about tangled cords anymore, with this minimalistic way to store your awesome Skullcandy brand headphones.

I know for sure it fits the regular $6 Skullcandys and the awesome sounding $15 Ink'd series earbuds.

As soon as I saw the chain and pinion I thought it was perfect for a tracked vehicle.


UPDATE
I worked out all the bugs with my file and the tracks work great. You will need 16 to fit the support that aubenc designed. There are 20 in the file so you will have extras. There is nothing stopping you from scaleing them up for a bigger vehicle like a tank or truck.

Holds an x-acto knife securely. There is a bit more plastic used than needed, but plastic is cheap, right?!

FYI: It's a tight fit because I also want it to act as a cap.

Printable Ball-and-Socket parts suitable for all kinds of applications. Hello helping hands, gorilla pods, coolant hoses. There is a hole in the middle to accomodate cables. Mine will become a small worklight to be screwed inside my printer.
I think i will add some parts over time, like a housing for some leds.
There is also a flange that i didn't print yet. Who is first on this?

Oke i added something to my own thing a base ;-)
Printing on a thing-o-matic took 1 hour 13 min

Video of the printing

youtube.com/watch?v=xaX69MOozZc

After my Cupcake (#2425, Rosie) started giving off more ABS fumes than I was comfortable with in my small college dorm room, I decided to start working on a filter system.

It uses a respirator filter and a computer fan to filter out air. The other large openings have to be covered, but the system in general isn't airtight, as the top of my cupcake is open allowing the plastruder to move up through it. However, as long as the sides are somewhat airtight this significantly cuts down on the amount of fumes that come out of your cupcake.

This system isn't perfect, but it works, and for my purposes is awesome.

This is a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:4458. When I built the shorty version I had trouble getting the parts to print correctly and I wanted the ring to turn further to fully open the box.

When I designed this iris box I started from scratch and used a different mechanism to open the box.

I have also uploaded the NX6 .prt files for anybody who wishes to use them.

Same great and simple device as the one from MK4 but now for MK5.
This is my first design, be cool ;-)
Maybe some adjustement can be made to fit more because the ABS can shrink.

This is a three blade wind turbine. Just connect to a small motor and you can get up to around 1.4 volts in a good wind current. It can double as a miniature fan, if you connect the motor up to a battery instead. This is my first finished design for Thingiverse!

Turkey wishbones are great for bestowing good fortune on the victor while delivering humiliating misfortune to the vanquished, but each bird only contains only one chance at glory. Now print out as many as you want with your handy 3D printer.

This is a hand held disk shooter. Pull back the tab on the back and release to fire. Gravity loaded.

Phoenix Laser Engraving creates these Shoji Shadow Box kits for sale in our Etsy shop phoenixlaser.etsy.com .

In traditional Japanese architecture, a Shoji is a door, window or room divider consisting of translucent paper over a frame of wood which holds together a sort of grid of wood or bamboo. (Shoji, 2009)

Shoji doors are often designed to slide open, and thus conserve space that would be required by a swinging door. They are used in traditional houses as well as Western-style housing, especially in the washitsu (Japanese-style room). (Shoji, 2009)

Phoenix Laser Engraving creates these beautiful Shoji Shadow Boxs from Birch Plywood, and we hand glue the paper to the inside to provide an elegant item.

These special Shoji Shadow Boxes are made for Bedside Tables, Romantic Nights, Cubical Desks, and hanging. The subtle light sets the mood and catches attention. The candle inside is battery operated so no worries.



ShMji. (2009, December 10). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 03:05, January 21, 2010, from en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sh%C5%8Dji&oldid=330875854

Super miniature pump, derived off my own 'Mini Pump' - thingiverse.com/thing:4839

Please see :- madox.net/blog/2010/11/22/super-miniature-3d-printed-pump-using-up-pp3dp-printer/ for photos and demonstration/test video...

A small, battery-powered gyroscope.

Update (6/29/10): Here's a video of one in action. Note that I used 4 button cells instead of 2. youtube.com/watch?v=Ov5WVhhIdWo

Update (6/30/10): Added a DXF file for lasercutting. If you use 5mm stock, the result should be about the same. You'll need to drill out the pivot holes, though.

This is a vinegar and bicarb-powered rocket that will blast into space! Well a few inches or feet!

UPDATE: We had lift off today (6/13/2010)!

In order to make it blow, you need to make the rocket and base airtight. I've uploaded Rocket Base 2, which has a larger diameter than Base 1, which is too small. Once you've printed #2 out, use sandpaper to make it smooth and exactly the same size as your rocket "engine". In the end, I found that the rocket itself was airtight enough. Also, I think that using modeling clay to fill the holes works too.

Reproduced from a wooden burr puzzle given to me as a gift. The two-part pieces are my own design that snap together when assembled as part of the puzzle.

Burr Puzzles are traditionally made of wood, but I made one that can be printed by a Cupcake. There are six pieces altogether with about a little more than a dollars worth of material. The puzzle is design for a perfect fit. If you want to make it more loose then you can modify the stl files for each piece. This particular puzzle takes fifteen steps to put together so it is quite fun. However, trying to figure out how take it apart is as much fun.

An updated version of the Awesome Pick that is actually printable. I don't play guitar (only trumpet, I'm working on making a printable mouthpiece), but my brother will certainly appreciate the free picks.

The Frostruder MK2 is a radically different approach to frosting extrusion. Instead of using a motorized plunger approach such as with the Frostruder MK1 and Fab@Home paste extruders, we've switched to air power. The result is a Frostruder with excellent characteristics: nearly instantaneous start/stop capability, vastly simplified design, a high pressure capacity, and an awesome steampunk aesthetic.

The way it works is pretty simple: The frostruder is basically a syringe connected to a pressure source, typically an air compressor. There are two solenoid valves to control the pressure: a 'Pressure' and a 'Relief' valve. When the Pressure valve is on, the syringe is connected to the main pressure source and that pressure forces out whatever paste material is in the syringe. When you wish to stop the extrusion, the Pressure valve is closed, and the Relief valve is opened. This part is critical because even after the Pressure valve is closed, the syringe is still pressurized. By opening the relief valve, the pressure is released and the Frostruder stops extruding almost immediately.

The frostruder is capable of extruding nearly anything with a paste-like consistency. There are many materials to possible, from food based items to awesome engineering resins. So far, we've had success extruding the following materials:

* Frosting
* Peanut butter (creamy)
* Jelly / Jam
* Nutella
* Clay
* Silicone
* Epoxy

A nice little wine glass for drinking your port wine in. The first version has a bit of problems with overhangs, and the second version fixes this, as well as adds a few flourishes of its own.

This model was made with OpenSCAD, which is an awesome CSG based modeler. More info here: openscad.org

CupCakeCNC Wide Version Prototype

platform Size　200*100

parametric OpenSCAD model for a twisted box consisting of two parts that screw into each other.

My friend Pedro Pinheiro assembled a tvbgone.com kit at codebits.eu and wanted an enclosure for it. Since we had brought along altLab's MakerBot, I was able to model and print him one on the spot.

Septagon box 20 mm per side, 25 mm deep. Why a septagon? Well, partially because the wikipedia says, "is not constructible with compass and straightedge but it is constructible with a Makerbot." Okay, I added the Makerbot part. Anyway it was fun, and I'm going to store my four leaf clover inside this seven sided box and set it next to the Makerbot during every build -- at least until I learn more about Skeinforge.

This is a simple spindle holder for my nichrome wire spindle. I designed it in 2d and extruded it with OpenSCAD.