Batman Logo Cookie Cutter

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

A 1:24 scale Chaise for lounging, to match the rest of the parlor set.

*This is a Thing in Progress: I edited the leg fitting since printing this the first time. I don't expect any issues, but I haven't actually printed the update myself yet.


Building a Makerbot Playset? Scale the chaise up by a factor of 1.5 to get it into 1:18 scale.

An example of how to use the walker negative space object to attach windup walkers inside a model. This is a simple shell with a pin peg hole on top that can be used to mashup other things. I've included my head and the stanford bunny head as examples.

Uses my pin connectors v2 library: thingiverse.com/thing:10541

Here's a video of it in action! youtu.be/_cIV555TPW4

Vanity table and stool. Suitable for princesses.

That's F for Flower. A PVA water soluble weapon of mass foliation. Otherwise known as a Seed Bomb deployed by ninja gardeners to sew seeds in hard to reach places. See Also: guerrillagardening.org/ggseedbombs.html

Sure, there are cheaper and more efficient ways to do this... but... pfft... The idea is to stuff it with some compost and seeds and then throw it somewhere that you think could use some color, but you either can't get to it or it's where people wouldn't appreciate seeing you digging around. Then wait for mother nature to dissolve the shell and make some magic.

This of course requires water soluble PVA makerbot.com/blog/2011/02/21/makerbot-introduces-water-soluble-3d-printer-filament/ since you don't want to wait a thousand years for ABS to go away. I'm not even sure this will work, however PVA is supposedly bio-degradable eliteanglingproducts.com/PVAEnvironment.asp and is used as a seed coating celvol.com/sekisui/sek_seed-coating.htm so hopefully it's safe. However, I will assume it's not safe, I'm stupid, and advise you not to do this. Also, I am not responsible if you get arrested for defacing someone's private property with beautiful flowers. :)

However, I'm going to test it anyway (did I mention I'm an idiot and you shouldn't do this?). Unfortunately it's not the best time of the year to try it, but I loaded one and sat it in a pot outside. I also sat one in a pot indoors that I'll run some water over whenever I water my other plants to see how it dissolves naturally over time and if anything grows out of it. I also threw some of the seeds into another pot just in case these old seeds are no good and to compare the growth. SCIENCE!

Alternatively, you could print this in something other than PVA and just use it like a little box to store things in...

This has now exceeded it's shelf life and will not be available again until next year

I managed to find a supplier of Tartan ABS in China.
The supplier says that they are also able to manufacture spotted and striped versions, but only in 3mm. (apparently the spots are too big to fit on the 1.75 mm and the stripes slide off)

I'm assured that the PLA versions will follow and an intriguing Sky-blue Pink that I can't wait to see.

I'm already imagining all the things I can make: Holes for rivets, Sky hooks, Long weights, Left handed screwdrivers, Sharp string, the list is endless...

Update:
Shipping will start on the 31st of April.

MY FIRST EVER THINGIVERSE UPLOAD, yaaaaaay!!

2-part biscuit/cookie cutter featuring (a derivate of) the logo of Metalab, our super awesome hackerspace. :) -> metalab.at/

"Metalebkuchen" is a play on words combining Metal[a]b & Lebkuchen, which is the German word for gingerbread. I haven't yet tested the cutter on actual gingerbread dough (which I've heard is a PITA to work with), but I already made regular biscuits with them yesterday & today and they turned out great!

This is the 2nd iteration of the cutter btw. All iterations realised with the help of wizard23 thingiverse.com/wizard23. Oh, and the LED in the picture is only there for size comparison reasons. ;)

Keyboard foot for Logitech EX110 wireless keyboard. Altered original scad to add latching pegs so foot does not move.

A printable OpenSCAD pirate ship. While it will definitely require support for the bow, the rest of the model should not. The OpenSCAD code isn't commented at all, so it may be difficult to follow.

There are two main parameters - "shipscale" and "th." The first parameter "shipscale" is the size the entire ship is based on. It roughly corresponds to the overall height of the model. The second parameter "th" refers to the thickness of many of the features. The STL below has the thickness set to 0.6mm. It should probably be about 1mm or so for optimal printability.

This ship features three masts with three sails each, a rudder, deck, captain's quarters, bow, and crow's nest.

As an FYI, this pirate ship was made with just "cubes" and "cylinders."

A sphere thing took from the google warehouse while I was looking for an openwork style sphere.

It's one of the amazing pieces of TaffGoch : bit.ly/uku6QH

Approx. 50x50x50mm

This nautilus style shell is my contribution to Project Shellter. Hopefully my brother's hermit crab will like it. I know we already have a nautilus shell on Thingiverse but this shell is pure OpenSCAD, drawn piece by piece with polyhedrons using a formula which approximates the fibonacci spiral. I made the first chamber very large, hopefully large enough for a hermit crab to wrap it's abdomen around. Just for fun, I have included photos of my (mostly useless) rough math notes.

DISCLAIMER: Unfortunately, it would be a lie to say it's parametric. It is, but the range of parameter values that don't crash OpenSCAD while rendering is small. It previews and looks fine with a wide range of values, but crashes while rendering. Also, it only renders with OpenSCAD > 2011.06

UPDATE: fixed Y2 issue in thingiverse.com/thing:13802 to enable both parts to be printed with the tentacle.

You may have made a lovely polyhedron with mrules snap-together vertex design, thingiverse.com/thing:4893, but what polyhedron is complete without tentacles? Exactly.

I accidentally printed the AAA Lid for the AA body by Shack90... I found out it was a perfect fit for the batteries I use for travelling... So I made a lid for the lid.
It can fit the following:
- 2 AA, 3 AAA
- 6 AAA
- 4 AA
So I replace the empty spot with the used one and turn it upside down to prevent rattling.

Just testing extruding vectors into stl file using cinema4d.

This is a test sheet of T-nuts.

Some are of the original type posted by kludgineer and some have been elongated for greater support when attaching things to the frame.

The main difference that should help with MendelMAX assembly is a dual t-Nut spaced at 20mm, most things on the frame are spaced for this to assist.

A Makerbat redesign to include a attached moon (or mood) ring around the bat. Great for Halloween Jewelry. Use alone for a quick and easy print or snap into it\'s included moon case. You can turn the bat in it\'s moon case depending on your mood or as a sign that it\'s getting late and time to leave the party (see Sleeping Bat pic). Case should be large enough to put in some of your own jewelry or and small LED light.

Some time ago, a friend of mine asked me to make her a pair of mind-controlled cat ears, and I said, "Oh sure! I can do that."

In my defense, I'd had a bit to drink that night, and didn't think she was serious.

She was.

(Oh, dear.)

On sober reflection, I became curious about whether I could do it. All the pieces seemed to be present:

* The Neurosky headset had just been featured in Make Magazine.

* The arduino microcontroller makes doing simple robotics like this relatively easy.

* The Makerbot and reprap printers make it possible to iteratively design custom hardware, which was going to be really important.

So instead of completely and utterly insane, the idea turned out to be merely odd. But doable.

Anyway, if you've ever woken up and said to yourself, "I'd like to strap a pair of robotic cat ears to my head, and interface them with my brainwaves," your wish has now come true.

Prototype 1

The first prototype is complete. It's imperfect, a bit fiddly, and bulky, but it held up long enough for us to put it on and walk around downtown Boston with it.

Here's a video of the first prototype in action. It showcases the ears drooping, standing upright, and wiggling at different levels of mental activity:

vimeo.com/32018607

Who should make this?

Let's be honest, this is a lot of work to do in order to make some kitty ears. The purpose of this thing was to learn how to do it and have fun. And I'm releasing it here because I'm curious what else people could make based on it.

Make Something Different

I'm very interested to see what can be made with this toolkit beyond cat ears.

The servo mounts can be used to attach motors to the MindWave headset, which was a bit of a tricky mechanical problem. Now that that's solved, what else could you do? Some suggestions for things you could make to mount on your head:

* other ears, like dog or rabbit ears
* antennae
* spikes
* fricking laser beams

It's hard to make derivatives of .STL files, so I'll be uploading the Solidworks files for people to tinker with, as soon as I have a chance to clean them up a bit.

Special Thanks

Many people helped me bring this project to completion. Some tried (vainly) to maintain my sanity. Others helped by listening to me rant like a madman (and didn't back away quickly enough). Some others contributed directly, and I'd like to thank them here.

Miriam Byroade designed and sewed the fabric for the ears and the holster holding the electronics.

Jeff Cutler contributed significantly to the arduino code, and is single-handedly responsible for the MoveToPosition(); function.

Amber Ying dared me to make the ears, modeled them, and has patiently tested three versions of them, all the while waiting for a working set.

Thanks again to all of you, and to the others I haven't mentioned. I promise to bother you more as I work on the next prototype.

This bracelet has no clasp; instead you can stretch it over your hand and onto your wrist. It was inspired partially by the Springamathing: thingiverse.com/thing:12053. The design on the outside was inspired by MakeALot's link bracelet: thingiverse.com/thing:7354.

UPDATE: At the request of nycdesigner, a couple of alternate designs are now also available.

This is a simple model of a very common clothespin that you can make on your 3D printer.

It's a small Halloween Fridge Magnet of a Bat.
I made it on Google Sketch-up, so here is the Sketch-up file, if you wont to change it and the stl file.

It has a hole recessed in his back so that you can add a magnet (I used Super Strong Rare-Earth Magnets 10mm x 1mm

This is the first custom part for my MakerBot Thing-O-Matic #5801 dubbed "MiracleMaker." These are the rod end-caps for the front of my bot. As can be seen in the artist's rendering, I'll be doing a few aesthetic mods and as I learn more about this machine, some functional mods as well.

Even though these are meant to bring character to my personal machine, I figured I'll share them for others to enjoy too!

Stay tuned for more awesome! ^__^

This is a 6.500 inch scale of the 3D scan. Does anyone know what this bad boy is? I have A youtube video with this.

The missing stick for the Octopus Bun Cover...
Sporting a matching curl...
The octopus was smoothed out using the Cinema4D tool 'Hypernurbs'.

After printing SSD's cleaned hollow skull I found that skeinforge made some weird slicing decisions so I decided to see what I could do about it and ended up with a nice bowl capable of being printed with-out support.

Uses far less material than the original and SSD's version.

I tried extremely hard to not change the appearance will improving printability.

Removed all of the original interior part left over by SSD after their clean up. Refined the check bones (zygomatic process) to allow printing with-out support.
Smoothed out a lot of the details where the spine attached to the head.
Rotated skull so the eye brows and check bones (zygomatic process) are level. (helps with slicing a lot)
Made eye sockets shallower to allow for larger interior space.
Levelled the bottom so it sits better.
Sliced off top of skull higher up than previous versions.

All work done with Blender 2.57

Updates
1)Added mandible as per SSD's request

Mandible was from a different human and requierd being narrowed, elongated and the chin was re-angled.

I also flattened the bottom slightly as well as some other small changes to make it support-less friendly. ( may still have issues )

2)Added second version of jaw with wider ball joints to line up with the sockets better.

Don't forget there will be a large gap in the mouth when the jaw is on because he has no teeth.