A snowman and a Christmas tree suitable for use as Christmas tree ornaments. Additionally, snowmen ornaments with the dates 2012, 2013, and 2014 are provided.

Both made using OmNomNom Creator (Thing 24639),

thingiverse.com/thing:24639

MangoT21's Beefed Up Replicator Extruder Bracket is quite nice. On his Replicator 1, he found that he needed to move the filament guide holes backwards 0.1 inches; whereas, on my Replicator 1, I found that the original guide holes were correctly centered for my extruders. Consequently, the holes on MangoT21's bracket were a bit too far back for my Replicator 1.

This derivative is therefore MBI's original Wire-Filament Extruder Guide.SLDPRT model with the filament guide holes unmoved but reduced to a diameter of 9.5mm. Then the result exported from SolidWorks as an STL.

Print your own US Flag keychain fob.

This print is intended for printing with a printer which supports "pause @ Z position".

This keychain was inspired by Jetty's Canadian flag keychain fob, Thing #26139,

thingiverse.com/thing:26139

Update: and, it turns out, Jetty just published a US flag fob as well (but I scooped Jetty :)

thingiverse.com/thing:26141

P.S. Feel free to figure out the cut depths for the keys. They're not for my house or jet plane.

If you like your resistor and diode leads to be bent uniformly and consistently, then this tool is for you. It also provides a useful task for the wee little ones in the house who want to assist you with your electronics projects.

Hocus Pocus! You present your audience with six colored blocks, each one with a hole through its face. Your audience inspects the blocks as well as the box you will place them in and the pin you will pierce them with. A volunteer selects two of the six blocks. After placing all six blocks into the box, you pierce the box and all the blocks with a pin. Waving your hand over the box, you say a magic word. Turning the box upside down, the lid falls off and out drops the two chosen blocks! But wait the pin is still running through the box with the remaining blocks still pinned in place!

See the demo video youtu.be/pmZhGH7pSUo

Print this magic trick along with Thing 24719,

thingiverse.com/thing:24719

and put on an impromptu magic show! You'll be sure to amaze your friends and family.

Build working non-circular wheels with Reuleaux polygons. Make "safe" sewer hole covers. Print your own British 20 and 50 pence pieces!

Recall the smarty pants question about what shapes can be used for sewer hole covers? Circles and what else? You want a shape that has constant width: you don't want it to have an orientation at which it presents a narrower width and thus can pass through the opening it is covering. Well, one of the classes of shapes which work for sewer hole covers is Reuleaux polygons.

Reuleaux polygons are also used for coins such as the British 20 and 50 pence, Mauritian 10 rupee, and Jordanian quarter and half dinars.

For further information, see

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curve_of_constant_width
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reuleaux_triangle

P.S. I was prompted to post this when I saw the recent 5 Shekel coin posted, Thing #25051. While that coin is not a Reuleaux polygon owing to the even number of sides (nor does it claim to be), it reminded me of the coins which are.

P.P.S The rotor in a Wankel engine is not a Reuleaux triangle. Don't know why some Things which claim to be Wankel's are also tagged as Reuleaux. The sides of a Wankel are a little flatter which gives a little more volume for intake. (The shape of the sides of a Wankel are optimized for combustion ratio, not for being a constant width curve.)

___UPDATE: added version 3 of Thing #24808___
___This is version 3 of Thing #24808___

Libre Graphics World has a nice write up by Alexandre Prokoudine of this extension at libregraphicsworld.org/blog/entry/inkscape-gets-openscad-converter

This Thing is an Inkscape extension to export Inkscape paths to OpenSCAD. There has been at least one prior Thing attempting this, Thing #9376. However, it only handled a small subset of SVG. This extension handles SVG arcs, clones, circles, ellipses, groups, lines, paths, polygons, polylines, rects, and splines. It also follows document transforms as well as viewports. Either an entire document or just the selected portions of a document are processed.

SVG text must first be converted to a path within Inkscape using Inkscape's "Path > Object to Path" menu item.

Note that another approach to importing SVG into OpenSCAD is to save the SVG to DXF from within Inkscape. Then use OpenSCAD's import() function to import the DXF. [Older versions of OpenSCAD used import_dxf().]

Much of the core code in this extension is derived from work done by myself and others while developing the Inkscape driver for the Eggbot.

___15 June 2012:___ Added support for a single level of polygon nesting. I.e., subtract from a polygon the polygons contained within it AND from the same Inkscape path. This works well for most fonts. You can tell Inkscape to combine multiple polygons into a single path by selecting the polygons and then using "Path > Combine". (You do not need to do this for text converted to a path: Inkscape already does the proper combining.)

___15 June 2012:___ Corrected Windows issue with handling of Unix-style file paths.

___21 June 2012:___ Correct a typo in the extension. Would not affect content generated by Inkscape but might have affected SVG content generated elsewhere and loaded into Inkscape.

___9 May 2013:___ Modified the code to remove non alphanumeric characters from the strings used to generate the OpenSCAD module names. Some SVG paths had non alphanumeric characters in their path ids and those ids were being used to generate OpenSCAD module names. OpenSCAD doesn't allow that.

Concentric shells of spheres, perforated with axially aligned holes semi-uniformly distributed using either the disco-ball or golden spiral distribution.

This is definitely a work in progress. And printing these requires support. I'm putting this out here as someone may find this useful as a starting point for some abstract math sculpture which is what I will be using it for.

As nearly all orchids are epiphytes, their roots require considerable aeration. When kept in pots, loose bark is typically used. Orchids further benefit from pots with lots of holes around the pot's side. Unfortunately, most of the commercial orchid pots with such holes are medium to large in size (120mm in diameter on up). Hence this design which can be used to make small, highly aerated orchid pots.

The supplied OpenSCAD file is fully parameterized allowing for the size of the pot and the number of circumferential holes to be adjusted.

Could there be anything more fun than drawing 3D surface plots? Yes, you can 3D print 3D surface plots and hold them in your own hands! (Indeed, I wrote this OpenSCAD program in 2011 for a math teacher who wanted some tangible 3D plots for a blind student.)

And, it would be REALLY COOL to mod this somehow for dualstrusion to produce AWESOME contour plots. For example, print every fifth layer in a contrasting color. The one in the photo was done manually using the Jetty Firmware's "Pause at Z-height" and changing out the filament in a single extruder.

At any rate, be the first carbon-based life unit on your block with a Lego(tm) set which includes

z(x,y) = cos(sqrt(x^2+y^2))/(1+x^2+y^2)

Or, print your own doll house washboard with

z(x,y) = cos(|x|+|y|).

UPDATED - paths2openscad-3.zip
UPDATED - paths2openscad-2.zip
See Thing 25036 for version 2 and 3
thingiverse.com/thing:25036

This Thing is an Inkscape extension to export Inkscape paths to OpenSCAD. There has been at least one prior Thing attempting this, Thing #9376. However, it only handled a small subset of SVG. This extension handles SVG arcs, clones, circles, ellipses, groups, lines, paths, polygons, polylines, rects, and splines. It also follows document transforms as well as viewports. Either an entire document or just the selected portions of a document are processed.

SVG text must first be converted to a path within Inkscape using Inkscape's "Path > Object to Path" menu item.

Note that another approach to importing SVG into OpenSCAD is to save the SVG to DXF from within Inkscape. Then use OpenSCAD's import() function to import the DXF. [Older versions of OpenSCAD used import_dxf().]

Much of the core code in this extension is derived from work done by myself and others while developing the Inkscape driver for the Eggbot.

9 May 2013: Modified the code to remove non alphanumeric characters from the names of the generated OpenSCAD modules.

15 June 2012: Added support for a single level of polygon nesting. I.e., subtract from a polygon, the polygons contained within it AND from the same Inkscape path. This works well for most fonts. You can tell Inkscape to combine multiple polygons into a single path by selecting the polygons and then using "Path > Combine". (You do not need to do this for text converted to a path: Inkscape already does the proper combining.)

15 June 2012: Corrected Windows issue with handling of Unix-style file paths.

Sine and Lace is an Inkscape extension intended for use with the Eggbot. It may be used to draw sinusoidal and lace patterns with periods a multiple of the document size. Two curves drawn with the extension may be selected and have a third curve drawn such that it is bounded by the first two curves. In short, the extension is intended for generating some fun patterns for drawing on eggs.

Abracadabra! Perform a magic coin piercing trick and amaze your family and friends. The eight solid pins pierce the solid coin eight times yet the coin comes back out of the container undamaged!

See the demo video at youtu.be/96b9ElucVW0 .

This project is sure to amaze your kids and help reassure your spouse that the 3D printer is a true household asset!

Also see Thing 25344, thingiverse.com/thing:25344.

Enjoy!

11 June 2012: Add missing OpenSCAD source file
11 June 2012: Ran the bottom piece through Netfabb
14 June 2012: Determined cause of problems for Slic3r; uploaded new top & bottom .stl file and new .scad file

Stackable beds sized for Sylvanian Families(tm) and Calico Critters(tm) dolls.

The OpenSCAD files are parameterized and thus changing the dimensions of the bed is easy.

Ever need a maze generated for OpenSCAD? If so, then this puppy is for you. It is a Python script which generates a random N x M maze and outputs a 3D description of it as an OpenSCAD program.

The number of maze cells as well as the maze's physical size can all be controlled with command line arguments when running the Python script. The Python code can even be modified to generated non-rectangular mazes. (Hint: just throw up non-removable walls in the initialized maze data.)

BTW, the Python code here is derived from the Eggbot Maze generator, Eggmazing, which is distributed with the Eggbot software and is an Inkscape extension. I wrote that extension for the Eggbot in the Fall of 2010 and want to again thank W. Craig Trader for the assistance he provided with that effort.

Enjoy!

9 June 2012: Corrected invalid commenting style in line 1 of OpenSCAD output
9 June 2012: Added warning when wall thickness (-t) is explicitly set to be thicker than one-half the cell's width or length.

The definition of the English word "egg" ready to print on your very own egg (with an Eggbot, of course). A great visual aid for those learning English!

The concept for this design was inspired by a similar design by Tim Docker. And, BTW, doing this design was my impetus for writing the Spiral Text Eggbot extension for the Eggbot. So, foreign language speakers out there: you too can render your language version of this design using that extension.

This project provides four sets of plans (schematics, board layouts, etc.) for Arduino and AVR based, animated digital dice. Also included are 3D models for printing enclosures for two of the smaller designs.

A (very non-exciting) video of the dice in action may be seen at youtu.be/Kp_W-V4TNko .

The files dice.zip and dice.tar.gz provide the full documentation, source code, .hex files, Eagle CAD files, Gerber files for use with a fab, OpenSCAD enclosure models, rendered .stl files, etc. for the projects. See the index.html file in the distribution for the documentation. These materials are being distributed under the TAPR Open Hardware License, tapr.org/OHL .

The projects demonstrate using the following AVR and Arduino features

* button debouncing,
* sleeping the device using power down mode,
* awakening the device from sleep with a change to a low voltage state on the INT0 pin,
* enabling and disabling the watchdog timer interrupt,
* software PWM using a timer/counter compare interrupt, and
* implementing simple (i.e., non-precise) timed delay functions.

The necessary hardware is straightforward, requiring

* a microcontroller with at least eight digital I/O pins,
* seven LEDs,
* seven current limiting resistors for the seven LEDs,
* a momentary push button switch,
* a pull-up resistor for use with the push button switch,
* an optional bypass capacitor for the microcontroller, and
* a power source such as a 3V coin cell or two AAA batteries for use with an AVR microprocessor.

C language source code for AVR-GCC is provided which has been tested on an Arduino Duemilanove (ATmega328p), an ATtiny24, and an ATtiny2313. The same source code file works for all three processors and can be used as an Arduino sketch.

While the projects are intended for an Arduino, ATtiny24/44/84, or ATtiny2313/4313, the sources can be built for other processors (but may need changes). The documentation also includes links for ordering individual boards from batchpcb.com (starting at $5.50, not including shipping fees).

This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

These are yet another implementation of easy open / quick access end cap covers for the Thing-o-Matic y and z-axis linear rods. This implementation uses a cover which rides in a sliding dovetail joint.

For other implementations, see thingiverse.com/thing:12279 (cover is sandwiched between the wood and a plate) and thingiverse.com/thing:16415 (cover slips onto the screws which need to be loosened a little to again remove the cover).

This derivative work exists to provide an SVG file for beauturner's "Bot Window for Cold Environment Printing" (Thing 15375). Beauturner's thing only provides a DWG file (which includes the rest of the ToM wood pieces as well). For cutting my panels, I needed an SVG description and I figured that other folks might as well. Thus, what is offered here is merely the result of converting beauturner's work from DWG to SVG by way of DXF. And then removing all the ToM pieces leaving only one of the panels beauturner designed.

This is a Speed Handle for a PanaVise(tm) Jr. vise. With it, you can open and close the jaws much faster and more easily than using the stock handle which comes with the vise. For some period of time, PanaVise provided these along with these vises.

The knob fits securely over the vise's existing knob.

This spacer is a derivative work of Thing 14548. I've created this derivative solely for the purpose of providing others with an OpenSCAD description of the part so that they can fine tune it for their particular printer and bearings. That way, a good fitting spacer which won't rattle can be produced.

Also these spacers can be used on the Y-axis carriage as well as the Z-axis. As with the Z-axis, you would be replacing the press-fit adjustable bushings with these linear bearings.

This Heated Build Platform (HBP) wire guide is a derivative of Jetty's HBP Wire Guide (Thing 14687),

thingiverse.com/thing:14687

This derivative has two differences from its ancestor:

1. The wires do not need to be disconnected in order to put this guide into use, and
2. This guide can be bolted to the horizontal, wooden platform of the HBP -- it does not need a vertical cross member to bolt onto which is a good thing as not all build platforms have convenient cross members).

Note that once put into service, the retaining ring becomes a fully encompassing ring from which the wires cannot escape: the slots which admit the wires into each half of the ring are not aligned. Once the two halves are bonded together, the ring fully encloses the wires.

Concerned about someone eating eggs you have decorated using non-food safe inks? If so, then these designs may be the ticket! All these designs have a tessellation of skulls. They then incorporate either some short warning text, or a longer text which wraps in a spiral around the egg:


Warning: In keeping with common decency, the Administration of this household would like to point out that the inks deposited upon this egg have not been tested for food safety. Indeed, based solely upon empirical evidence (that being the behavior of some members of this household), the Food Police have deemed these inks to be suspect. Moreover, the band gap energies of the ink's pigments have not been tested by qualified quantum mechanics and as such it remains unknown whether or not they emit photons unsafe for ocular consumption. Please read and/or eat at your own risk!


NOTE BENE: I do not mean to poke fun at anyone concerned about the use of non food safe inks. Not only is it a legitimate concern, I happen to share it as well. I made these designs as I wanted to leave a few of these in the fridge for my wife to come across.

Note also that the kind folks at Evil Mad Science have a nice write up of some food safe pens they have tested with the Eggbot. You can read their write up at

evilmadscientist.com/article.php/edibleink

...or "omelette" if you prefer.

These files are for plotting an omelet recipe on eggs using an Eggbot. Use the file omelet.svg or omelet-1-serving.svg if you park the "pointy" end of your eggs at the egg motor cup. Use omelet-flipped.svg or omelet-1-serving-flipped.svg if, like me, you park the fat end of your eggs at the egg motor's egg cup. (Less slippage when you do that, eh?)

Note that the text is sized such that you don't need a nano sized pen tip: I used a Sharpie Ultra Fine for the pictured egg.

So how many servings for omelet.svg and omelet-flipped.svg? Those two files have a "2 serving" recipe which calls for two eggs. If you desire a more self-contained recipe, then go with the "1 serving" variants. And, if you need nutrition info, well just see thingiverse.com/thing:7232 and then mentally add in the 2 or 1 Tbsp of cream and 3/4 or 1/2 Tbsp of butter. (Butter is about 100 calories per Tbsp and there's about 50 calories per Tbsp for heavy cream [the yummy stuff].)

Bon appetit!

In need of nutrition information for your large eggs? Then this drawing is just what you've been looking for!

This is a 3200 x 800 pixel plot intended for plotting with the Eggbot.

P.S. The text was rendered using the new Hershey Text extension by Windell Oskay and distributed with the latest Eggbot software release. It may be found in Inkscape under Extensions > Render > Hershey Text (after you update to the latest Eggbot software). The utility of that extension is not limited to just the Eggbot. Among other things, it provides nice, non-filled, single stroke fonts ideal for use in CNC and CNC-related applications.

And another geometric tiling for the Eggbot. This one somewhat reminiscent of Op Art. The drawing is in a 3200 by 800 pixel template.

Generating this and similar images is fairly simple. For example, this image was generated by drawing a square, then splitting the square into two triangles. Each triangle was then twisted using the contributed "twist" extension under Extensions > Eggbot Contributed. The result was then cloned & tiled using Inkscape's Edit > Clone > Create Tiled Clones... tool.

See also Thing 6968.

Another geometric tiling for the Eggbot. This one somewhat reminiscent of Op Art. This drawing is in a 3200 by 800 pixel template.

Generating this and similar images is fairly simple. For example, this image was generated by drawing an isosceles triangle. Then it was "twisted" using the contributed "twist" extension under Extensions > Eggbot Contributed. The result of twisting was then cloned & tiled using Inkscape's Edit > Clone > Create Tiled Clones... tool.

This drawing is less demanding of plotting precision than an earlier, similar version I have posted. This version fully draws each local region of the egg before moving on to the next region. While this makes the plotting time a bit slower (but not by much), it reduces the amount of plotting precision needed. (The prior version of this drawing was optimized for speed but made the egg go through many full back and forth revolutions.)

If you still have plotting precision issues, you can slightly stretch the drawing horizontally by, say, 5 pixels. (If that's not enough, then iterate by stretching again.) Just select layer "2 - black", select all in layer, and then use Object > Transform. In the Transform sub-window, use the "Scale" tab and set the units to "px" (pixels). You may see that the initial width isn't exactly 3200 pixels: that's because (1) the drawing is wider than 3200 pixels as it wraps around the egg, and (2) Inkscape takes into account the stroke width of the lines.

Alternatively, you can remove a column or two from the drawing if you are having plotting precision issues. The result still looks quite nice.

For plotting on spheres, you will need to rescale the vertical component of the drawing: it is presently squashed vertically so as to make it suitable for plotting on eggs. Rescale the vertical dimension by 100% / (0.666666 * 0.95) or 157.89%.

The SVG files pattern-20.svg and pattern-16.svg have, respectively, 20 or 16 "stars" running horizontally around the egg. Thus the -20 file has more stars. The interactive Python script pattern.py may be used to generate additional SVG files with whatever density of stars you'd like, and with or without vertical compression for eggs.

This is a monochrome geometric drawing for plotting on eggs with the Eggbot. The drawing is 800 x 3200 and has an aspect ratio appropriate for eggs. To plot on spheres, rescale the image vertically to a height of 1200 pixels and then remove rows to obtain the desired height (e.g., 1000 pixels).

Drawing this plot requires a high degree of plotting precision. You can remove a column to prevent any poor seams from appearing and still have a pleasant plot.

FWIW, at a pen speed of around 220 steps/second, this plot takes about 30 minutes to draw. I've had success drawing it at faster speeds (300 s/s); however, with the pens I use, I like the slower speeds for achieving better color saturation.