Final update: I have uploaded the source scad and DXF files, and an archive with all the STLs, including the improved ones by nicholasclewis (thank you!). I lost some of the source files for the first models by accident, and the bunny idler was not made in OpenSCAD, and I don't have the source for models made by others, but most of them are there. Have fun building, and don't forget the contest!

Starting today, December 2nd, I will upload a new STL each day. Print one per day and you'll have a Prusa Mendel (with extruder) on the 24th. The prints that take longer are on the weekends, with shorter ones during the week. Some of the parts are special holiday-themed. I'll try to arrange them so you can build as much as possible with the ones you already have. All of these will fit on a normal Makerbot build platform. For more information on the Prusa Mendel, see reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

For the source code for the models, see github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

Superlative update! Ruben (sikko on IRC) of ikmaak.nl is organizing a contest for everyone who is printing this. The best resulting printer gets a free set of electronics, and the runner-up gets free filament. So if you are printing this, check ikmaak.nl/eenblog/2010/12/06/the-holiday-mendel-build-contest/ for the contest details.

The STL for 02. December is now available.
It's a Wade extruder idler by nophead, thingiverse.com/thing:3462

The STL for 03. December is now available.
It's three of the universal rod clamps that you need for the Y and Z axes.
The snowflakes are from thingiverse.com/thing:1321
You can hang them from your frame top bars if you like.
This is the Prusa Mendel bar-clamp part.

The STL for 04. December is now available.
If you can have a vertex with a foot...
then why not have a vertex...with a boot!
This part is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot in the Prusa Mendel

The STL for 05. December is now available.
The irregularly shaped hole on the y motor bracket just got more regular.
This is equivalent to the y-motor-bracket

The STL for 06. December is now available.
Courtesy of GregFrost, we have a decorated vertex that proudly proclaims the name of the remix's designer. Print as it is, and don't worry about the missing bits on the first layer - they're there on purpose.
This is equivalent to the frame-vertex.

The STL for 07. December is now available.
For all of you who were waiting for the other shoe to drop - here it is.
Should print better than the one before - less of the boot is hanging in the air.
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

The STL for 08. December is now available.
This is a tree-star vertex. While the front of your bot has boots, why not have something nice for the back too?
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

Once you've printed this part you are ready to assemble one of the frame triangles. Take this part and the one from the day before it, and the crown vertex, and follow the instructions on the wiki page linked above.

The STL for 09. December is now available.
We've already got bar-clamps, why not star-clamps?
Sadly the thumbnail does not show the most interesting bit.
This is the Prusa Mendel bar-clamp part.

The STL for 10. December is now available.
Another lovely vertex by GregFrost. Print as it is, and don't worry about the missing bits on the first layer - they're there on purpose and spell out the model name.
This is equivalent to the frame-vertex.

The STL for 11. December is now available.
Another tree-star vertex.
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

You can now build the entire frame! Have fun!

The STL for 12. December is now available.
It's a gift and motor holder. It holds your z motor and a bunch of gifts - and anything else you put on it. Using clothbot's parametric LEGO buttons at thingiverse.com/thing:1005 makes this part LEGO-compatible.
This is equivalent to z-motor-holder.

The STL for 13. December is now available.
Since the LEGO bits from yesterday turned out so popular, here's more of that.
Four belt clamps, two rod clamps, two bar clamps. Enjoy!
(There was an error in this file. If you downloaded it before this message appeared, please download it again. If you already printed it, you will need to reprint it. Sorry! My mistake!)

The STL for 14. December is now available.
These are the prusa bushings. They work best if printed in PLA, so if you have access to PLA, use that for this part.
These are the bushings for all three axes.

The STL for 15. December is now available.
These are pulleys for the X and Y axes. Use the shooting star pulley on the X axis, and the other on the Y.

You can now build the entire Y axis.

The STL for 16. December is now available.
This is a quiet little street behind a purring Z axis motor.
This is equivalent to z-motor-holder.

The STL for 17. December is now available.
Two little trees to hold your leadscrews in line.
This is equivalent to coupling.

The STL for 18. December is now available.
tbuser's lovely scanned gnome thingiverse.com/thing:4693 finds its way back to the real world, guarding your x axis motor.
This is equivalent to x-end-motor.

The STL for 19. December is now available.
I was so impressed when the Stanford bunny appeared on thingiverse as thingiverse.com/thing:3731 and immediately printed 4.
This one will sit on your idler and watch your prints for you.
This is equivalent to x-end-idler.

Now you have all the parts you need to build the X axis and attach it to the Z axis.

The STL for 20. December is now available.
It's an x-carriage...with a beard. More on this theme later.

You can now attach the bushings and belt for the X axis.

The STL for 21. December is now available.
This is the small gear for a Wade's extruder - with a candy cane on top.

The STL for 22. December is now available.
This is the body of Wade's extruder, only with a hat!
(could you, would you, with a hat?)

The STL for 23. December is now available.
This is the large gear for the the Wade's extruder. It's meant to look pretty cool with the other extruder parts and the bearded carriage.
Moustache profile from thingiverse.com/thing:4626

You can now assemble the entire extruder.

The STL for 24. December is now available.
These are the endstop holder sleighs.
Racing through the bed.
On a one-stop open axis.
Who will reach it first...
At G28.

You can now assemble the entire printer. Tomorrow, you get OpenSCAD source and a zip of all the models.

This is a parameterized version of Adrian's printable inkjet head. It is configured for 20mm piezo disks.

Dec 18th, 2010
Added support for second o-ring (Adrian's change).
Adjust height of body if second o-ring used.
Remove clamp cutout if second o-ring used.
Reposition bolt holes so they are equidistant from the piezo and body walls.
Automatically compute tube clamp width.

It has still not been printed and tested.

This OpenSCAD script provides modules for both Spur and Bevel Gears. It has some major enhancements over my original gear script thingiverse.com/thing:3534. It uses some of the spur gear nomenclature code from TheOtherRob github.com/TheOtherRob/MCAD with my own code for generating the involute teeth. The bevel gear is also my own work. Thanks also to elmom for some enhancements to my original gear script thingiverse.com/thing:3547.

Enhancements include the Bevel gear module, backlash settings, parameterised number of facets for the involute curve and whole of tooth generation to avoid some of the issues the original script had when mirroring a half tooth.

The STLs provided are not intended for direct use, but instead show examples of what can be done with the parametric script.

Parametric Involute Spur Gears take the following parameters:
number_of_teeth
circular_pitch or diametral_pitch: controls the size of the teeth (and hence the size of the gear).
pressure_angle: controls the shape of the teeth.
clearance: The gap between the root between teeth and the teeth point on a meshing gear.
gear_thickness: the thickness of the gear plate.
rim_thickness: the thickness of the gear at the rim (including the teeth).
rim_width: radial distance from the root of the teeth to the inside of the rim.
hub_thickness: the thickness of the section around the bore.
hub_diameter
bore_diameter: size of the hole in the middle
circles: the number of circular holes to cut in the gear plate.
backlash: the space between this the back of this gears teeth and the front of its meshing gear\'s teeth when the gear is correctly spaced from it.
twist: for making helical gears.
involute_facets: the number of facets in one side of the involute tooth shape. If this is omitted it will be 1/4 of $fn. If $fn is not set, it will be 5.

Parametric Involute Profile Bevel (Conical) Gears take the following parameters:
number_of_teeth
cone_distance: The distance from the pitch apex to the outside pitch diameter.
face_width: The length of the teeth.
outside_circular_pitch: The circular pitch at the outside pitch diameter.
pressure_angle: Defines the shape of the teeth.
clearance: Gap between the tip of the teeth on one gear and the root of the teeth on another meshing gear.
bore_diameter: The size of the hole in the middle.
gear_thickness: The thickness of the gear for bevel_gear_back_cone finish (see below).
backlash: Makes the tooth width smaller to make a gap between teeth of correctly spaced gears to allow for manufacturing tolerances.
involute_facets: As for spur gears.
finish: Specify either bevel_gear_flat(0) or bevel_gear_back_cone(1). If you don't specify this parameter you will get a flat gear for pitch angles less than 45 degrees and a back cone gear for pitch angles greater than 45 degrees. The example shows both with the small gear being the flat one.

Update: v5.0 Implements backlash for bevel gears (This was not working in v4.0).

The reprap is not the only 3d printer that can replicate itself, now the Makerbot can to.

This Makerbot is made out of aproximatly 150 individual pieces that is printed on , "yes you guessed it) a Makerbot.

My Makerbot worked hard everyday for about a month straight to finish this project, and i am immensly happy about the end resoult.
There are more pictures on the bottom of this page;)

(The pictures doesnt do it justice one bit, but it really is a thing of beauty)

Now i have added a zip file that includes all stl- and max-files.

Over the top tea pot showing some easy flourishes from TopMod, based on the basic tea pot I uploaded earlier:

thingiverse.com/thing:451

An exercise in some new techniques and just plain campy fun.

A small desk clamp.

Works but it requires a little more super glue than I would have liked.

It was designed to be a PCB holder (the one Lady Ada uses in her instructions was the inspiration).

ladyada.net/images/usbtinyisp/tools.jpg

The base is too small making it unstable.

However I just finished printing it and it works!

To make it you will also need.

3/8 (5mm will do as well) threaded rod and some square nuts.
Square brass tubing ( 3.9 mm ) and the size that fits just inside that.

Needs some more work:

Bigger base , maybe multipart
Better way to hold the clamps

The tar file contains the blend , photos and all the stl files.

This is still a work in progress but the MakerBot actually seems to print braille rather well. I can't read braille so I can't judge for sure whether it's readable but it certainly seems like it. The trick is to get the G-code right to prevent warts on the front face (i'm still fiddling with this).

I think this might have a lot of potential. A braille bracelet will be next in my printing/designing queue.

These parts are a pan tilt mount for two 'mini' servos

flickr.com/photos/zignig/3681821576/in/pool-makerbot/

It printed first time and the servo's were a tight fit.


I used the 20 mm circular horn and made the screw holes with a hot pin. Then mounted with superglue

I will be making a webcam , torch , laser and blank mount so you can mount your widget on a turret.

I am currently redesigning it with a normal size servo on the pan , enjoy

:)

This is a clamp that I use to hold down the raft during printing an object. It can also be used to clamp stacks of paper, etc.

Made in Sketchup and exported with the CADSPAN plugin. The .skp file is included.

The makerbot finally printed me some glasses!

I decided to start out with some nice thick frames inspired primarily by Cory Doctorow and Bre Pettis, though I have plans for a lot more styles and shapes.

As for practicality...
I honestly wasn't expecting these to be comfortable but they actually are. They're really light and after a while I forget I'm even wearing them. I can even wear them over my normal glasses.
PLUS major geek bonus points for wearing GLASSES YOU PRINTED YOURSELF.

This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build.

If you are a MadScientist with the need to store some crazy strong chemicals in Test Tubes on your desktop...then you are in luck! Heres you chance to own a MadScientist TestTube Stand! Just print and enjoy!

Designed for 18mm diameter test tubes.

This is a bearing race for a thrust bearing. It just needs two M8 washers and 8 x 4.5mm (0.177") ball bearings of the kind normally fired from BB guns. It was designed for the bearings of the RepRap Darwin Z axis, but is a generally useful little widget. Including washers, it occupies approximately the same space as a 608 bearing.

A set of 4 of these bearings has been in constant use for 1 1/2 years with no issues.

This is an omnidirectional wheel. If you know what this is, you know that they're a real pain to find, and expensive when found. They're expensive because it's a niche item, not because it's terribly complicated or hard to produce -- an excellent candidate for home replication.

Unlike commercial omniwheels, this comes with a Futaba-style servo mount already in place -- it's designed to be screwed directly to the servo. If this isn't your style, replace the object named "Servo Collar" in the Blender file with the mount of your choice.

v1.1 Update: Based on input from Simon Kirkby, I've enlarged the centers of the roller wheels and changed the axle mounts, which no longer need drilling.

full details, video, etc @
plebiandesign.com/store.html

It's a radiation shield for a toaster that leaves a shroud of turin-style jesus image on every slice of toast. In short, it's a miracle that is well within your reach.

Today was Fashion Hacking day with Diana Eng at NYC Resistor and I've wanted to make these keyboard pants for a long time. The basic idea was to take a flexible silicone keyboard and somehow integrate it with some pants (or shorts). I had they keyboards laying around for a while and I ran down to the Conways to get some jeans for about $8 (Yay fulton mall!)

This was inspired by a cool project I saw a long time ago on the hypernets: engadget.com/2008/04/23/keyboard-infused-pants-make-it-okay-to-grab-your-crotch/

While talking to Zach I got inspired to model lego bricks in order to create custom bricks - the ones you always wanted but thought you never could get. Well now you can!

Of course it does not snap in place as nicely as original lego bricks but it should be good enough to create the custom lego piece you always wanted.