Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:58413

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=58413

I improved the extruder.

I have changed to "Mk7" the drive gear.
Using "624ZZ" the idler bearing, "603ZZ" as a support bearing.

40MM Fan duct for MendelMax & Prusa V3.
This new & improved version is more compact and has beefier attachments. It fits between the Supa-Flat bushings and has clearance for bulldog clips. Like V2 is has an open end for better viewing during printing. It fits well with a J-Head.

Alibre PE source files included.

MendelMax 1.5+ kits and printed parts are available for purchase at ultibots.com.

The most minimal RAMPS mounting I could come up with.

You'll notice from the photos that M3 hardware doesn't exactly fit, and I had to put one bolt /under/ the board as a result.

I plan to shorten my wires and do some more fixing up, sorry for the awful and blurry photos.

To make calibration easy, use this large easy to print piece. 110mm for x and y, 4mm height. All squares are 10mm x 10mm.

The difference to smaller calibration pieces is that you can find really tiny errors with this. I found a 2% error in my print, 3 mm at this size. A standard 20mm calibration cube would have given you a .4mm difference. Still measurable but a lot more difficult.

Yoda Bust

This is a reinforced Version of Simon's x carriage based on my slim LM8UU holders.

I basically changed the following:
* Beefed up the LM8UU clamps to 3mm wall thickness for better strength
* Added extra support braces for stiffer frame, also between the belt clamps to allow more belt tightness without twisting the clamps or the whole carriage
* Applied two fan mounts for multi-purpose fan or equipment installation (tiltable fan duct, LED ring light, etc.). Dimensions of mounting blocks are 10x10x15mm with hole for M3 screw right in the middle..

Here is "InMoov", the robot hand you can print and animate. You have a 3D printer, some building skills, This project is for you!!

This is a hand built for a job (still picture commercial), it was supposed to be mobile but not animated and mostly be able to take human hand positions. Cables or fishing rods might be added in order to control it, but it was not the purpose of this work at first. I am now working on another model(for the fun), trying to animate it, I really would like to do it with computer control but I have never worked in that field. Never used servo's before, so any help is welcomed.

Blog under construction, see:
inmoov.blogspot.com

A first movement video. I have to say that this video was not easy to do. I was holding the camera with one hand and trying to trigger the rods with the other.
I definitly need three hands!
youtube.com/watch?v=r_rQ2WJ0dq4

youtube.com/watch?v=JztSQpwZaRU

youtube.com/watch?v=zvbNcuUPHyQ

youtube.com/watch?v=BAs2F4sFVdA

Last of all:
youtube.com/watch?v=tojIdfywYVI

There is also the left hand model for the one that plan to make a complete robot, Arf, still quite a bite of work though.
thingiverse.com/thing:18939

Perhaps one of the funnest projects we have attempted around the .:oomlout:. offices. A five degrees of freedom robotic arm. While we have spent many hours twisting knobs to move pop cans from one point on our desk to another sadly it has not progressed much further.
The main reason for this is the sum total of math knowledge around the oomlout.com offices is about 4 (don't ask us to show our work on how we calculated this) so inverse kinematics is well beyond our reach.

We are releasing it in an imperfect form in the hope that the clever Thingiverse denizens will be able to make it better.

Why this isn't quite ready for sale:
-We lack any inverse kinematics program which makes moving the arm intelligently nearly impossible.
-Without software limits on the servos it is capable of stripping the low cost hobby servo motors (this is alright for testing as they are only five dollars) (we have stripped two in the life of our arm and both happened when we were asking it to do silly things) (this can be fixed by upgrading the servos)
-We haven't completed the 3d model or assembly instructions just yet, but by studying the photos it is possible to assemble. (think more jigsaw puzzle than lego set)
-The gripper, lets just say the gripper needs a little work.

That said it is an amazingly fun toy to play around with, and a good starting point if anyone has ever had a desire to make the perfect robotic arm (it is open source so you'd be free to make and sell your own)

(shameless plug)

For more details about becoming a Robotic Arm Developer visit our blog
(http://www.oomlout.com/blog)

This is the low-cost prototype of a robotic arm with 6 DOF, 3D printers manufactured and designed using free software (OpenScad, Inksape..).

The Prusa iteration 2 modelled in Blender 2.5. All the STLs parts of the official Prusa 2 have been imported into Blender. All the vitamins have been designed in OpenScad, exported to STL and imported into Blender.

This model is very useful for generating documentation. The users can explore the design to see how the different parts are attached. In addition, animations can be generated in Blender.

Blender is a multi-platform open-source high-quality application. Although it has not been explicitly designed for Engineering, is rather easy to import STLs parts and create complex 3D models.

You can see a video here:
youtube.com/watch?v=7fOu8MF8ZJg

Github repository:
github.com/Obijuan/Prusa2-Blender

Wiki page (in Spanish):
iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa2_Blender

This nice thing attaches to your Dremel and lets you make your own M8 knurled bolts for your extruder. Technically speaking it's a "spiked" bolt, not a knurled one, but it's close enough. :) And yes, the name is supercheesy, but I like it anyway.

I made this because the standard Ultimaker knurled bolt doesn't fit the extruder I'm currently designing.

It's modelled in 3dsmax, so no openscad files, sorry :( If anybody wants to make a parametric version be my guest.

This box attaches to the left side of an Epilog Zing 6030 Lasercutter. It provides protection for the exhaust outlets, by tunneling the air to the front and back, as well as storage for documents, rulers, lens cleaning equipment, air filter remote and other things.

It only covers the front half of the Lasercutter's left side. Also check out for the rear box design.

This is an original design I came up with to (well, it's what I do) push the limits of what a Makerbot printer can do. I hoped the high level of detail in the stonework would show, and, as you'll see, it prints quite nicely. It's shown here in MakerBot's Slate Gray ABS.
I want to see some cool dioramas cropping up here on Thingiverse!
Enjoy!
Created by Jason

Another piece for our soon to be released game, Table-Tactics.

Model was designed in TinkerCAD:
tinkercad.com/things/6IHYaz4QE8e-castle-table-tactics

This is the kiosk, in the center of the castillo´s place in Pamplona, my city.

This is the only model of Alien, that i found in the Sketchup gallery.
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=d1552782213fc1cf76516d84319b2de7
Its a semi 2D model, in which I had to work hard, to repair all intersected faces.

This is for mounting a J-head to a Wade's Extruder. The J-Head in the Photo is the Mk. V-b, but Any J-head will fit because it is Parametric. It Measures 70x25x8mm, so it shouldn't get in the way of your extruder gears.

A tangram is a 7 piece puzzle that can be put together to create a square. It is a very addicting puzzle that once you pick up, you can never put it down!

-Nathan and James

This is a 2 extruder mod for Prusa Mendel 3D printer. The mod is for Makergear hotends and Greg Frost's extruder design v3. The firmware is based on Marlin. The electronics are RAMPS v1.4.

This enclosure is designed to house the RAMPS electronics for RepRap, a 50mm fan for cooling the Pololu stepper drivers and mosfets, and an optional LCD display in the lid. It should work with v1.1, and 1.2 RAMPS, and other shields designed for the Arduino MEGA that have the 2" x 4" footprint.

Side mounting clamps are designed to attach to 5/16" or M8 threaded rod, with plastic ties.

Cable access is through the front of the enclosure, but there is also a hidden slot built in to the side wall, in case there are shorter cables that cannot make the long way around to the front.

Can be mounted almost anywhere, but my preference is the back left corner of the machine (Prusa).

The RAMPS electronics box is too big to print on a Makerbot, which is kind of a pain since I managed to print all the other parts on a Makerbot.

But now that is no longer a problem! This set of files was created with the 3D Interlocking Tiles openscad script. The same file could be used to create a box for pretty much anything (like the different versions of RepRap electronics) that is still printable on a printer with a smaller build volume.

I just left the front of the box open due to the number of wires that need to come out of it (4 motors, 6 endstops, thermistors, power, USB, etc).

When I mounted it I just used a couple pieces of aluminum to hold it at one corner of the bot cuz I didn't feel like cutting out a big piece of wood.

Slight change to Greg's excellent x-carriage.

1, I broke at least 2 x-carriages while trying to insert the bearings (I didn't warm up the holders first) So i change the holder design a bit to let the bearings slide in easily, then i added 2 build-in ziptie channels to the holder themselves.

2. Added a belt_socket_offset variable to allow changes to belt-socket alignment. 0 gives Greg's default which fits Prusa's new (felt branch) x-ends nicely. You may want to increase it to something like 10 (guesstimate only) if you are using the original prusa x-ends.

This soap dish is designed in two parts in order to let the water drip down.
Find more information on multec.de

Architects proof-of-concept for a recent house design, explored at 1/8”=1’-0” scale, modeled from AutoCAD two-dimensional working drawings to 3D in SketchUP version 8. This project was seemingly unslicable until the recent updates of RepG 0037 and Replicator firmware 5.5. Now, almost magically, it seems to work quite well and prints reasonably fast too!

Modeled and furnished at full interior detail and designed as three detachable pieces for interactive client viewing and visualization of each level of the residence. Almost no trimming, touch-up or cleanup needed after plotting.

Kudos to those always working diligently on the hardware and software that constantly hone and perfect the tools that make our creative fun and productive work possible!

When printing, our bot is live to the web at justin.tv/bot14me2

Peace!

***UPDATE*** Uploaded properly scaled .stl of the First Floor. Apologies for the oversight and many thanks to 'guus46a' and 'MangoT21' for pointing out my error!

This is a simple thing to help you carry your bags. It doesent hurt your finger, and is really elegant to use.. (=])

Accessory turn your water faucet into a drinking fountain to drink or rinse your mouth from the tap with no worry about hands or cups.
I recommend to use the Thinkercad to modify the file applying your correct diameter.

Inspired by "Tapi"
More designs and 3D printing on my twitter: @brumdopoder

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online tinkercad.com/things/krBIf74hn1C

This is a scaled up version of thingiverse.com/thing:22051. I had to split this in two stl files in order to print on the ultimaker. Some folks requested I upload the 2 stls for them to try out. So here it is...

- Hitesh

Original file by Pranav Panchal, downloaded from GrabCAD: grabcad.com/library/eiffel-tower

A sequel for the printable padlock: a locking box with a real locking mechanism and a sliding lid.

Uses the exact same locking mechanism as the padlock and is fully parametric.