My girlfriend challenged me to make a hand soap dispenser that is cooler than anything we could buy at Crate & Barrel (or similar stores). The result, after a number of design iterations, is this bottle which now inhabits our bathroom.

This dispenser is designed to reduce waste in a number of ways. First, it is easily refillable, and so can be used for many years. Second, as the pump is turned, liquid soap spills from the spout back into a hole in the bottle, thus recycling any drips. Third, this design makes it easy to get as much or as little soap as you want, while commercial soap pumps often dispense more soap than necessary with a single squeeze.

Paste extruder based on the Moineau pump principle.

The pump geometry is based on thingiverse.com/thing:7958

Should work as a plug-in replacement for a hot plastic extruder in a 3D printer. However, I have NOT used this to actually print anything. I'm just publishing it in case someone else wants to try it out. (I think it's ready for printing a very small pizza without toppings, but beyond that I cannot say.)

Almost everything is parametrized and adjustable from the SCAD file. However, the resulting design should be evaluated to see if it is still sane after adjustment, since not all of the features are automatically calculated. Particularly the flange and driveshaft diameters must be adjusted by hand to match the other measurements.

See it in action: youtu.be/OHQiKuQvuEU

Note: obviously it is impossible to build an object from material that flows on it's own - the object would not hold it's shape. So in practice the material has to either be pulled into the extruder by a negative pressure (impossible with PLA printed pump parts) or pushed into the extruder by a positive pressure. In either case the motor axle has to be sealed, or it would either relieve the negative pressure or allow the material to flow up and out from the inlet block.

This is a Peristaltic Pump designed in Sketchup. I have tried to design it with an eye towards printing on a MakerBot, but do not own one so I cannot test at this time.

It should accept 3/4 inch hose with a 1/8 inch wall thickness.

Or was that a perimetric parastaltic pump ?

This is a peristaltic pump built in openscad.
There have been a number of peristaltic pumps recently and I thought a parametric one would be cool.

thingiverse.com/thing:8652
thingiverse.com/thing:8914

The motor mounting still needs some work but its a start

A Moineau pump is a type of positive displacement pump with steady flow (no pulsing). This type of pump is common in the food processing industry because it can efficiently pump slurries (like soup) without crushing the contents. This one pumps 32 cc/revolution (neglecting whatever leaks back through the seals) and is capable of pumping water (milk is shown for contrast).

I thought this might be useful as a paste extruder or something of that nature. It's better than a peristaltic pump because no flexible hose is needed (which tend to reduce efficiency and wear out), plus it doesn't pulse.

Having used Apple computers all my life starting with a //e I felt like I needed to print SOMETHING to honor Steve Jobs.

Based on sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=4b3607f3cde3037658fc1ad354006c7

I modified that to make it more printable, scaled it to size, and added the classic apple logo to the front of the screen. I'm skeining it right now to see how it prints. Enjoy

---

A few hours later....Print is going, I've edited the file several times to tweak some details.

Every member of the original Macintosh team had their signatures injection molded on the inside of the cases of some of the computers. I've added my twist on that as a memorial to the members of that team that are no longer with us, flip the computer over and you'll find their initials.

Jef Raskin, Brian Howard, and Steve Jobs rest in peace.

What started off as a section of straight train track has turned into a large train set. To be honest this was a great project during Hurricane Irene weekend. Was also my birthday when I did this, so something fun to do on my birthday. My kids have gotten a kick out of them. The ones in the photos are straight off the printer, no cleanup needed, some tips on that below. This stuff all pretty much snaps together, so not much in the way of post printing work required. These train works great without tracks. I was excited that the body design worked as well as it did and suprised that the Makerbot did so well printing the tall axle towers. Would be fun to modify the wheels for more of a monster truck look. Maybe during the next hurricane...

I drew this stuff in Sketchup and then exported to the stl file. If it is useful to anyone I happy to post the Sketchup files. The curve track was tricky to draw, for some reason it tends to warp up a bit on one end when printed. I think probably due to by build platform being sort of warped (need to replace the belt on my ABP...).

Update 9/24/2011:I just replaced a large number of the stl files with new versions that are a lot cleaner, and should print a lot better. I also removed earlier versions that I didn't think were worth printing because the new versions were much better. All the files I've loaded here have been tested and should print well on a Makerbot.

NEW! as of June 17.

This is now a complete modular rocket system!

Pick a nosecone, body tube(s), fincan, nosecone coupler, and voila! A semi custom printable rocket!

I plan to be adding new sections on a regular basis so check back often! Feel free to leave feedback if there is some feature you'd like to see that isn't up yet :)

Important dimensions to make compatible modules:
Tube Outside Diameter - 1.75in
Tube Inside Diameter - 1.667in
Coupler Tube Outside Diameter (tight): 1.663in
Coupler Tube Outside diameter (looser): 1.659in

NOTE: The designs are closely based on the Legacy design and should work well, but many of them are still untested. I'm working on it, though.

Just added some mouse ears to the fins to help prevent warping on this difficult raftless print.

Either a prototype for the MakerBot Aeronautics and Space Administration or the next phase of the robot uprising - robots making rockets! The end is nigh. Actually, it's just the printable rocket embossed with some MakerBot text and logos.

Feel free to use the OpenSCAD script to make your own rocket with your own name on it!

Stamp your things with a recycling code!

Inspired by a comment on this article suggesting we have a subroutine that printed a recycling mark on every part we make: blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/04/polite-houseguests-print-and-repair.html

This is a complete set of printable corners for the RapMan 3.x printer from Bits From Bytes.

They may be used as stronger replacements for the (very fragile) standard acrylic corners, and are designed to be installed without having to take the whole machine apart. Most corners now require only 3 easily-accessible bolts (down from 8), and importantly, no more fiddly grub screws :)

Apart from making the whole machine stronger, the Z motor corner now includes a mechanism to easily and accurately adjust the tension on the Z belt. This is now a one-handed operation, not three-handed!

The Y motor corner requires 2 files (top_backleft.stl, ymotor_clip.stl) whilst the Z motor corner requires 4 files (bottom_frontright_backleft.stl, zmotor_*.stl) All other corners are each 1 file only; even the top corners, as the bearing holders are now all integrated.

I have endurance-tested these parts with a 24-hour non-stop print and everything is still running smoothly. If I find any weaknesses, I will update the STLs.

NB: Some of the green STL auto-renders displayed left and below are mirrored; they are however correct once you download them (tested in both BFB Axon and MiniMagics)

We started shipping the Ultimaker, parallel to that we publish the lasercut drawings.

This is a screw driven peristaltic Paste Extruder. It is still experimental, so before you decide to build it please check the following videos to see it in action:

- extruding polymer blend (hair gel):
youtube.com/watch?v=1XWYLSRCcq8

- extruding viscous chocolate glazing:
youtube.com/watch?v=qIFkw5RNXqQ

- extruding polymer blend at 16mm/sec, 0.5 mm nozzle, 250 micron layer:
youtube.com/watch?v=axAP0btw4Lk

Some pictures of the printing head: picasaweb.google.com/ioan.festeu/ReprapPasteExtruder?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJnau7ew38qs7AE&feat=directlink
You will find a 3D pdf file attached so you can easily inspect the pump.

Also I have attached a dxf file for the laser cutted acrylic mounting plate for Rapman 3D printers. Sorry... for Makerbots and Mendels you will have to find your solution :)

CAD drawing picture shows in yellow the printable parts. The rest of parts are stock M6 threaded rods, nuts and washers and two inexpensive 606 bearings. The stepper motor is a NEMA17.

For the tubing and pumping elements I used two sets of cheap perfusion kits. The pumping elements (shown in creamy colour) are elastic latex tubes you will find in the kit. Idealy you may use standard peristaltic pump tubes.

The reason I am using two elastic tubes (dual chanel) is because peristaltic pumps suffer from the so called "pulsing". That is, when the screw leaves the tubing the corresponding void (where the tube was pinched) will suck back a little bit the pumped fluid at the outlet hence pulsing. But using two chanels arranged in anti-phase pulsing is reduced to almost zero.

Total parts cost (except the stepper motor) is less than 10 Euros.

I will come back later with a complete parts list and instructions.

NOTICE: I didn't uploaded yet the "pressing pads" (two small parts that press the elastic tube over the screw shaft) because I need to make some minor changes, but don't worry I will post them asap. UPDATED

P.S. If somebody needs the early CAD files let me know. I will gladly send it to you so you can adapt to your machine. I am working in Alibre Design PE and I can't save in other common formats so you must find a way to make the conversion.

P.S. 2 I have uploaded the file "pressing pad". You may want to put some rubbery material between the pad and elastic tube to be sure the screw shaft will completely close the pumping tube but not strangulate it. Otherwise the pump will loose the pressure.

Also I have updated the 3D pdf file.

I have attached a picture of the "perfusion set". Don't know the exact terminology in English, sorry. Some sets also have a Luerlock part connecting the needle and the latex tube. My Luerlock file supports that part. Obviously you can use any kind of support that fits you better.

UPDATE 1: watch my third video (I have listed above).
I will upload asap a new screw rotor design. I am not very happy with the current one since it seems it have some bugs: it creates some extra pressure when the rotor leaves the tube hence altering the low pulsation feature.

UPDATE 2: I have uploaded a new screw rotor design (Screw Rotor New.stl). Screw pitch was decreased from 12mm to 10mm so motor rpm will increase just a little bit. It should perform better than the previous one. Will come back with my own results.

UPDATE 3: Uploaded the file Screw_Rotor_New_Support.stl. Unfortunately this file must be printed with support (soluble PVA, PLA?). However this rotor leaves a smaller footprint on the elastic tubes hence less dead volume (less suck back). Still working for the perfect match to bring pulsation close to zero.

UPDATE 4: Check my photo album: picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oN2Z_e3g6u7eHZYbbXj2nQ?feat=directlink
It is printed using the part "Screw Rotor New.stl". Pulsation is so small I think is a good print. Just a little bit of adjustment is needed. The trick is to find the perfect match when the helicoid is fading (leaving the contact with the elastic tube)such as the dead volume arising is compensated by the incoming volume of the same chanel. Meantime the other chanel is pumping normaly. And so on. For the perfectionists I promise I will fix this to make it even better. Meantime I am preparing new .stl files for the final version. I need to clean up the bugs in some of the parts (there are plenty) and may be to make the pump smaller and with less nuts and bolts.

UPDATE 6
About the cheap latex tubes: very short lifetime, losing elasticity. So, go proffesional peristaltic tubing. The pressure will be perhaps around 0,7 bar with those tubing. Now I am waiting for the tubes to be delivered (2-3 weeks). Meantime I will try to cast my own tubing from RTV silicone. Keep you updated.

Test model made for my MakerBot artist-in-residence project. Generated using Processing.

Turn a water bottle into a bird-feeder.

This is an adapter that lets you attach a Philips ToUCam web cam (model PCVC740K) circuit board to a telescope eye-piece opening, allowing to use the web cam to directly "see" through the telescope.

Photos of the thing are here:
blog.gagalabs.com/finally-printed-the-telescope-webcam-adapter

Update 25-May-2010: Removed enforcement ring to have the sensor closer to the telescope

Have you ever wanted a Gothic Cathedral of your very own?

Are you intimidated by the centuries long construction schedule, and the punishing job requirements of being a European Bishop during the Dark Ages?

Then We Have a Thing For YOU!

The Gothic Cathedral Play Set!

A python script to generate OpenSCAD models to generate two parts of a box that screw together and snap fit if you find your way through the maze :)

Here is a squeeze buckle like you normally have on a backpack or hiking gear. I removed all of the supports for a strap on the fork part, since it just wasn't printing properly.

Also the fork fits into the sleeve in only one direction, due to the edits I had to make to make it printable.

Enjoy!

The Frostruder MK2 is a radically different approach to frosting extrusion. Instead of using a motorized plunger approach such as with the Frostruder MK1 and Fab@Home paste extruders, we've switched to air power. The result is a Frostruder with excellent characteristics: nearly instantaneous start/stop capability, vastly simplified design, a high pressure capacity, and an awesome steampunk aesthetic.

The way it works is pretty simple: The frostruder is basically a syringe connected to a pressure source, typically an air compressor. There are two solenoid valves to control the pressure: a 'Pressure' and a 'Relief' valve. When the Pressure valve is on, the syringe is connected to the main pressure source and that pressure forces out whatever paste material is in the syringe. When you wish to stop the extrusion, the Pressure valve is closed, and the Relief valve is opened. This part is critical because even after the Pressure valve is closed, the syringe is still pressurized. By opening the relief valve, the pressure is released and the Frostruder stops extruding almost immediately.

The frostruder is capable of extruding nearly anything with a paste-like consistency. There are many materials to possible, from food based items to awesome engineering resins. So far, we've had success extruding the following materials:

* Frosting
* Peanut butter (creamy)
* Jelly / Jam
* Nutella
* Clay
* Silicone
* Epoxy

This is my hack at the Utah teapot, fiddled so that it will actually print on a RepRap with no support material. I had to fill in the inside of the lid to do this, and the inside of the top of the teapot gets a bit gnarly as I increased the wall thickness there in a rather rustic manner. I also took a few liberties with the line of the spout and managed to beat the overhang problem in the end.

Better Living with MakerBot, Episode 2
You probably all know this situation:
You're supposed to ref a soccer game in less than 1/2 an hour and you cannot find your whistle. You're screwed!

But from now on you're out of trouble: Fire up your trusty MakerBot and print a new whistle in 26 minutes!

This object prints the pea right inside the whistle. Since the pea is connected to the rest of the object only at one tiny point, it's quite easy to break it loose after printing with a small screw driver or tweezers.

I probably pushing luck a little bit with bridging the top layer. So far I printed the whistle twice without problems.

As always, I added the object as .obj file (wavefront), which can be imported into AOI and Blender.

The gcode file is the one I used to print the whistle on the image. The gcode file contains an experimental raft with additional "blobs" on the second (interface) layer.
You might want to generate your own gcode file with skeinforge settings, tested with your MakerBot. Be sure to setup Skeinforge to create an (almost) watertight object, since the whistle won't whistle if it's full of holes...

[Update]
I added a second version of the whistle. "Whistle_v2" is an attempt to fine tune the object a little bit. My brother (he's a pipe organ builder) gave me some tips how to optimize the whistles mouth. Whistle v2 should start whistle with less airflow than v1 and thus be (somewhat) less loud. I also downsized the pea a little bit and changed the shape of the lanyard loop.

Whistle v1 is still available for reference and also since it's more "tested"...

Since you blow the whistle with your mouth, be aware of possible problems concerning "food safety" of printed plastic. See the blog post "For foodies out there" ( blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/13/for-foodies-out-there/ ) for more information.

A hard, printable business card case, perfect for carrying around those fragile, elaborate business cards.

Here is a Toy paddleboat for your kids to play with. Created using the Drafting/Modeling program Vectorworks which can output .stl files. I have not had the chance to confirm the .stl files are in the right format. There were some options in the export window and I don't know if I chose the right ones.

In response to the remake challenge, blog.thingiverse.com/2009/08/26/remake-challenge-iphone-tripod-mount/, a portable media tripod mount. The adapter will fit many different handheld devices, and is reconfigurable to have either the single or double support block on top and bottom.

Smallest clamping size: 1.75in
Largest Clamping size: 3in.
Ideal fit: iphone

The two clamping arms fit into each other to prevent lateral movement. The female attachment has a press fit for a 1/4-20 nut, acting as the tripod mount. To eliminate the lateral movement between the female and either clamp arm there is a modeled "peg" and complementing features; however, there is probably a better solution.

Adding a low durometer material to the clamp fingers would make a nice grip without damaging the phone surface.

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

A simple device to hang your neckties, because no matter how hard you try we all need to wear one from time to time. Similar products in stores are no longer worth the price when we have the means to print our own!

Designed to fit any standard closet rod. There is 1.2 cubic inches of volume, costing around $0.2x in material

Please let me know if you experience any problems.

I was once a tall large man. Then I was scanned and I have been trapped inside an STL file for A LONG TIME. Thankfully, Martin Bauer let me out of this file and he has given me his name and I look like him, but I am small.

I can live in your house too, that is the beauty of being converted into an STL file, if you have a 3D printer like the MakerBot, then you can give me a whole extra life. It is like when you hit that secret box in Mario Bros and get all the free lives you want.

Please, print me out on your 3D printer, take pictures of me, make me clothes... really, it can be cold being this small with the whole surface area to volume issue.

Also, if you print me out furniture, that would be nice. I would use it.