This is a parametric version of FdS' flex-box.
You can edit the file using your favorite text editor (notepad, vi, emacs, pico) to change the height, width, and length of the box. Then send the file to your laser cutter and you will have yourself an awesome little box.

edit: v 1.1 some clean-up and bug fixes

make tslot of any width.
10x10
20x20
25x25
30x30
40x40
...

Version 120208.02:
==================
Simplified library, now you pass the model as a parameter.
Added more tslot models.

Version 120208.01:
==================
Added two slots for Wx2W
So now you can print
25x50
30x60
...

Concept for a delta robot 3D printer with the following design goals:

Build volume: 8x8x16 inches or 200x200x400 mm
Footprint: 12x12 inches
Print surface: 8x8 inches heated glass which never moves
Mass of moving platform with hotend: less than 100 g
Mass of moving platform with two hotends: less than 150g
Positioning speed: 800 mm/s in all 3 directions
Positioning accuracy: 100 steps/mm in all 3 directions
Simplicity: fewer than 200 parts (not including washers, nuts and SMD-mounted electronics)
Hardware cost: less than $500 USD

I want to use the following common components:

Stepper motors: 4x NEMA 17 (plus extruder motors)
Timing belt: High-torque GT2 belt (2 mm pitch)
Pulleys: 12 groove aluminum (7.6 mm pitch diameter)
Filament drive(s): similar to Ultimaker
Ball bearings: 8x 608 (skateboard bearings)
Linear bearings: 8x LM8UU
Smooth rod: 8x 762x8 mm
Diagonal rods: hollow carbon fiber rods from kite shop
Diagonal rod ends: cheap ball joints used for model race cars
Hotend(s): MakerGear 1.75 mm
Top and bottom frame: laser-cut plywood

Inspiration: search YouTube for "flexpicker" or "adept quattro".

Closest ancestor:
heliumfrog.net63.net/deltarobot/delta.html

Some minor changes to my filament pusher inspired by Tom's update (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16928).
I have incorporated a filament guide on the idler (and coined the term guidler).
I also took his modification so the front bearing doesnt rub and I have included a printed spacer so the bottom bearing doesnt rub either (just insert it before the bearing).
I also widened the opening a bit for better access to the hobbing (another of Tom's ideas).
I also included one of Triffid Hunter's suggestions to modify the hinge support piece slightly to make it easier to remove.

Thanks Tom and Triffid for the ideas.

Circular duct work to direct and spread air around the nozzle. Honestly not sure how helpful this is, but I liked the look! Designed to fit Greg's latest thingiverse.com/thing:15118 or its derivatives.

This is a Keychain version of Emmett's screwless heart gears!

I'm still working on getting the scale right (small enough for a keychain, but big enough to print the details)

As it is, It needs a rather large fan blowing across the print to keep the gears from getting mangled.

Current scaling = .5

All parts are the same except Gear8, which has a hole through the tip for a keyring.

I needed some brackets to hold a dial indicator in place for measuring the travel distance for all three axes on my Prusa. And I didn't want to have to remove the extruder or anything like that.

This simple set of parts should solve that problem for all of us.

This set *may* work on Mendel and other similar builds.

Cylon Raider ship from the newer Battlestar Galactica series.

Make sure you have no wireless network devices nearby when this Cylon is printed; these toasters can infiltrate a network in seconds. And they have a plan....

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

My girlfriend challenged me to make a hand soap dispenser that is cooler than anything we could buy at Crate & Barrel (or similar stores). The result, after a number of design iterations, is this bottle which now inhabits our bathroom.

This dispenser is designed to reduce waste in a number of ways. First, it is easily refillable, and so can be used for many years. Second, as the pump is turned, liquid soap spills from the spout back into a hole in the bottle, thus recycling any drips. Third, this design makes it easy to get as much or as little soap as you want, while commercial soap pumps often dispense more soap than necessary with a single squeeze.

I made this for my badger hair brush. It looks nice and holds the brush with the hairs pointed down so leftover water doesnt ruin the wood handle.

Some users have found that the rafts generated by common toolpath generators are wasteful of material and difficult to remove. cptnAWESOME found that it is easier to add raft-like features to .stl files prior to passing them to a toolpath generator, as in thingiverse.com/thing:16596.

This script performs this function automatically and uniformly, so that designers can distribute files in a form that is as machine- and technology-independent as possible. The user can then apply whatever preprocesseing steps are necessary to ensure the best print characteristics on her machine.

This is a derivative of Landru's Companion Cube. I thought it would make a cool pendant for a necklace. All credit goes to Landru, I just added the little loop at the top.

This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, H, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.
Not printed yet... I'm away for the weekend! I'll upload some photos when I do, on Monday.

Tetherball Escapement parts based on
youtube.com/watch?v=PRoz4XC83yk
Not sure if this works yet, but we'll see!

So for awhile now i've had one of the little metal stands to hang my brush and razor from, but it takes up alot of space, I suddenly realized I could build a better setup and hang it from the underside of one of the shelves in my medicine cabinet.

Just a quick solution to my wobbling print bed.
Please notice I also use a linear guide (the clear printed piece).

I saw a video on youtube where a milling machine levelled it's own bed by cutting a tiny layer off the surface and thought this concept may be a good way to level your bed for cold bed printing. It's opposite of the milling concept but it should work.

The idea being that as you print the shim the height differences would be levelled out by the act of the plastic not being squashed down on the low parts. As more layers are printed the process finds the level by gravity for the low areas and compression for the high areas.

I think 3 to 5mm high would be enough to level out the low spots, this is just an idea whilst I rebuild my printer.

A simple structure like the attached stl sized for your bed should not use up much plastic. You may need to run some sandpaper over it to clean up bulge for the high spots.

These are yet another implementation of easy open / quick access end cap covers for the Thing-o-Matic y and z-axis linear rods. This implementation uses a cover which rides in a sliding dovetail joint.

For other implementations, see thingiverse.com/thing:12279 (cover is sandwiched between the wood and a plate) and thingiverse.com/thing:16415 (cover slips onto the screws which need to be loosened a little to again remove the cover).

This is a filament dust remover in cylindrical form. It can be attached anywhere on the filament. On top of the extruder or before your filament guide, etc.

These four parts will replace the laser-cut plywood parts on the Eggbot. All three major components are compatable with the wooden parts, so you could just change out the pen holder it would work fine. The plastic parts make the penholder much more stable. The penholder is designed to work with the Sharpie and Sharpie Micro. When changing pens, the alignment should be right on the spot.

a twisted triangular shaped vase

inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:12120 and thingiverse.com/thing:6465 i decided to try myself at a design for a vase.

made with 3dsmax, height ~90mm

When I was printing and launching the model rocket, the thought struck me: why does every printable model rocket have the same tube-with-fins-and-a-nose-cone design? We've got 3d printers, goldangit! We can do any design we want!

Thus was born the concept of the launchable cartoon rocket. This is the love-child of my Cartoon Rocket model ( thingiverse.com/thing:15618 ) and the printable model rocket ( thingiverse.com/thing:13616 ).

I used the Cartoon Rocket as a basic design concept, and added the functional components to make it launchable: an engine mount, a nose cone which pops off easily, space for a parachute, a tube for the launch rod, and extra fins for stability.

A word of warning!

As of this writing, this rocket has not been launched. I have satisfied myself that it will launch safely and stably as long as you add enough ballast to the nose cone, but I don't know what will actually happen the first time it launches. Be sure to test the stability before you launch and follow all model rocket precautions. Launch at your own risk!

Say hello to the 6 Packer, the awesomest way to transport your glass bottled beverage of choice. The 6 Packer is constructed of 3/16" thick laser cut ply wood and assembled with 4-40 1/2" screws and nuts. The bottle holes will accept anything from the run of the mill long neck bottles to IBCs to short chubby craft beer bottles.

The 6 Packer was designed with openscad and is completely parametric. You can change material thickness, bottle diameter, fastener size, hand grip size re-render and cut out using your favorite laser cutter!

What's that? You don't have a laser cutter? You can purchase a 6 packer directly from me over at Etsy. timogiles.etsy.com Enjoy!

Here by popular request, is the venerable Gothic Cathedral Playset as a single object. Sized suitably for printing on a Replicator build platform.

Its smaller than the original. But with that same crunchy medieval flavour. For extra fun, try printing in PLA.

Perfect for relaxing after a hard day in space. 1:18 scale. A bit oversized to fit that bulky space suit.

Update: I need to resize this piece slightly to fit the makerbot astronauts. The chair is useable without the seat attached. Look for an update soon!

update 20120103: The machine was commissioned some time ago, and this has been working great! (see picture). I'll adapt this system in all future designs. It will work with belts up to 10 mm wide.

This is part of a small audit I am doing of the current Mendel structure for the utter lack of stiffness of some key parts. The general aim is to have a superior Mendel while still keeping plastic (here: only 27 + 16 grams) & vitamins needs at moderate levels . Any help, comments, contributions and evolutions of the design most welcome!

The aims of this torsion box mount are:
* to put a mercy end to the y axis motor sorry flexion on its mount (and the consequent lack of parallelism that has the pulley and belt doing very unwanted things)
* to provide support to the Y axis pulley on both ends, thus reducing the forces exerted on the stepper motor bearings
* to improve the general ability to correctly tension belts and improve stiffness, precision and fight backlash.

The design uses one 28x12x8 bearing.. Clearances are OK with or without a printed idler / bearing cover. Lately I have switched to two bare 608 bearings side by side.

There is a 16 mm wide space inside the box for the idler and all the washers that will fit.

The starting point is the dxf from Adrian's mods.

Note: a similar "treatment" will be applied to the X axis in the near future.

Inspired by but not derived from thingiverse.com/thing:15602 and thingiverse.com/thing:11017

A Prusa Y Motor Bracket that allows the belt to sit close to the motor face like the X motor, changing forces on the bracket from torsion to compression.

!WARNING! Giant bridge! The entire motor face contacts a bridged area 43x43mm in size. if you haven't dialed in your bridge settings to be capable of 50mm bridges, don't print this until you have!
See my bridge torture test object

Forward Brave Astronauts!

Journey into the farthest reaches of the Cosmos and be among the first humans to see the wonders of our Thingiverse.

Your daring MakerBot crew risks all for science, adventure, and our distributed-manufacturing future!

Created by Thingiverse user Skimbal, designer of the Turtle Shell Racers, MakerBot Botmobile and the Gothic Cathedral Playset.

This is an idler pulley for using Synchromesh Cable from SDP/SI ( sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=84751&GroupID=768 ) in place of belts for linear motion on RepRap style printers. You can see a video of my Prusa printing with these cables here:

youtu.be/0GMzYMI6rf8

Using this cable and non-printed pulleys gives zero backlash for me and is a nice upgrade from T5 or XL belts. It's also fairly cheap and very lightweight.