This part slips in the clip of an IPod Nano (TM) to allow you to use it like a Watch. You need a watch band - I found mine listed under Divers Velcro (TM) watch band. They can go for like $6. This is a design I came up with in a short period of time. The day it was released I bought one and made this. It was the first "Thing" I designed for my MakerBot. I wear mine all the time, it has a few draw backs the largest is the dock connector is exposed when washing your hands. I take no responsibility if you wash your Nano and it stops working. To get the Watch Face you can set it to Black on White or White on Black in the General Settings under Date & Time - set Time On Wake to - ON. Then choose the color scheme under Clock Face.

I looked into getting lead shot for the weight on a mechanical clock and it turned out to be cheaper to use pennies. This should hold about 2.5 pounds ($4) of pennies with some room to add more if you need to.

Note: To stay under the 150mm height limit of the Replicator you'll have to use the shorter stl file.

I made a hole in this for M5 threaded rod. You can use this for your clock as a pendulum weight. Fill with pennies and adjust as you like.

I scaled Antoines famous rocket down to 10cm, so it fits in my Mosaic printer.

A leaf spring frame.
Maybe useful for a 4x4 model

Here's a sneak peek of a clock prototype i've been throwing together. Its not complete yet as there are no hands for the hours/minutes seconds and the minute gear currently spins backwards.

The goal of this prototype was to verify that is it possible to print the full geartrain from escapement to hours gear and have the gears spin when a reasonable amount of force is applied.

I haven't printed the pendulum, but roughly 1.5lbs of weight applied to the drum on the hours gear will spin the entire geartrain and appears to be reasonably tolerant of alignment and tilting. (until the string hits one of the gears)

There are front pieces, so sadly the gears are hidden from view while operating, but I'm hopeful to have a it ticking with a ~1 meter pendulum within another day or so.

The screws are all M3 and most are stainless steel 55mm long.

To get a sense of scale, the backing squares are 100mm x 100mm.

Tetherball Escapement parts based on
youtube.com/watch?v=PRoz4XC83yk
Not sure if this works yet, but we'll see!

This is a python script for generating cylindrical coordinate functions as OpenSCAD scripts.

Specify height, radial resolution, vertical resolution, wall thickness, and a twist parameter at the top of the python script.

Specify radius as a function of theta and height in a function called "fun" also in the script.

The archive contains a few files :
-- cylindrical.py is the script
-- spin.sh is an example of using inotify to automatically regenerate the .scad file every time the .py script is updates.
-- various .stl outputs and some .gcode

This script solves the problem of :
-- generating a surface from a cylindrical function
-- generating a constant-thickness wall for most reasonable curves
-- a polygon function for plotting polygons in polar coordinates ( can be used to interpolate between polygons or other shapes )

This script is good for :
-- interpolating between different shapes along the cylinder with rotation
-- generating procedurally generated forms more quickly than composition in OpenSCAD

The script can now write STLs directly and can be configured to output solid objects or objects with a solid bottom. If a .stl filename is given as the first command line argument, the script will save to that file, otherwise it will print to standard out. Python also attempts to automatically call meshlab if it is installed to display the rendered result. If a .scad filename is given as the command line argument, an OpenSCAD script will be written and meshlab will not be launched.

While looking for new interesting things to print using water soluble PVA support, I decided I want to try to make a Hilbert Cube: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hilbert_cube

After trying and failing to do it in openscad, I worked around it's limitations by writing a ruby script that generates openscad code. This ruby script can create a 1-3 iterations of a hilbert curve in 3d. I borrowed code from a Processing script by Thomas Diewald at openprocessing.org/visuals/?visualID=15599

Unfortunately after doing this, I realized it wasn't really a hilbert cube as the shape is not one continuous curve. :( Still it looks cool and is pretty much impossible to print without dissolvable support. It would be awesome if someone smarter than me would make a proper parametric hilbert cube generator, plz!

I also found a really nice and proper curved hilbert cube by Carlo H. Séquin at cs.berkeley.edu/~sequin/X/Hilbert_Cube/ I resized it and made a support model for it. I don't know what the license is on it, hopefully he won't mind me reposting it here. The problem with this model is that it is curved in a way that makes it a more difficult print.

See also this hilbert cube print from shapeways: youtube.com/watch?v=9cdWpQ2D-O8

NEW VIDEO! youtube.com/watch?v=gCGmpHHC0Ag

It's a 3D printed clock! WOOT!

It consists of 12 number plates, 2 gears, and 1 mount.

All units are inches.

In the zip folder are two versions of the main drive gear and clock base (10" gear). The gear I sectioned into four pieces (print two of each) and a version of the drive gear that does not need supports.

This should main clock base should fit on most hobby printers. I made everything so that it requires no support and fits within a 4x4" box.

After the clock hackathon today at MBI, I decided to try to copy the escapement from this clock from YouTube:

youtube.com/watch?v=VJ2OkslQSzU

So, here's the parametric code I've written tonight in OpenSCAD. It's meant to take bearings of arbitrary size, screws of arbitrary size, and make the escapement seen in the video.

It's not done yet.

If you want to support the clock hackathon, please help out and whip this file into shape so we can start printing some escapements!

I wanted to build a model rocket. But I wanted it to be easy to assemble without glue. So I designed a new rocket that uses snap together construction.

This thing will allow you to mount a cylindrical object (flashlight, laser pointer etc) on a regular tripod.

I made this model of the standard 2 liter soda bottle so that we can subtract is form lovely objects and give them the proper threads.
I changed the Thread Library a little bit to make this specific model print well upside down or right-side up.

One last thing. I found a measured drawing of the threads here: threadspecs.com/assets/Threadspecs/ISBT-PCO-1881-Finish-3784253-18.pdf

Articulated, snap together, Mars Rover! No screws, glue, or support structure needed (although some glue in a few places wouldn't hurt). All the parts can be posed, turned, twisted. The wheels turn and the legs even pivot like the real thing to go over obstacles! Unfortunately, it is not autonomous.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mars_Exploration_Rover

2011-07-19 Update: V3 fixes a problem with plate 5 that was causing some pieces to be too close together and get merged, makes the axel holes in the body a little tighter, half the panels in the plates have been flipped so that the shiny side of all pieces printed on a HBP can be on top, I made the dimples on the panel tabs larger so they hold together better, and I also added squares to the panels to make them look more like solar panels.

2011-07-16 Update: I uploaded a new version of everything with a few changes like dimpled tabs for the solar panels (thanks to gpvillamil) and slightly larger holes to make it easier to snap bolts into. I also added a variable to the openscad script called tolerance that you can use to make those holes slightly larger. If you print the tolerance_test.stl you can use it to help find the right tolerance for your printer. The holes range from a tolerance value of 0.0 to 0.6 in 0.1 increments and the files I uploaded are 0.2

This is a redesign of my prior attempt at building an open source disc shooter.

I'm not sure which kind of disc would be best. So, I've designed 9 different kinds. There are three with 2 holes, three with 3 holes, and three with 4 holes (plus a center hole for each). There are three with those holes beveled up to the right, three not beveled at all, and three beveled up to the left.

The barrel is in two halves, which should hopefully fit together. There's a firing pin as well, with notches for a rubber band. The cap is designed to be used with either one long rubber band or two smaller ones.

I've included a sketch with some basic design elements.

Eventually, I'd like to add a way to pop in a set of discs.

Having printed and assembled, I offer the following notes:
1. Despite the version number, this is the first draft I've printed. It does shoot. When you do you want to cover the circular hole or the next disc in line will pop out.
2. The firing pin sometimes snaps to one side, jamming. This might be solved by putting a guide into the top of the barrel. Needs more thought.
3. It seems like just pulling the firing pin back far enough to clear the disc gives it a pretty good amount of energy.
4. I'm using some small rubber bands. I'll try with larger ones later.
5. I've only tried the discs with the two small notches in them. The ones with bevels appear to fly better - but I've only shot a few times.
6. In case you're curious, I included my hasty sketch of this part of the mechanism.

If you're interested in helping, I've uploaded the OpenSCAD file. I could use some ideas on attaching a handle, getting the firing pin to slide straighter and jam less, magazine for additional discs, how the trigger should work, etc. :)

Or, better yet, why not make a derivative?! I think a very similar mechanism could be used to shoot darts like Vik's thingiverse.com/thing:7512

So after seeing the printable threaded rod replacements I got to thinking.

I didn't really understand why people were designing such high lead angles, I've been playing with printing overhangs lately, which coupled with my experiences printing a screw-cap for a bottle led me to this:

An attempt to design a printable worm drive.

Its hard to find much data online about any kind of worm other than the standard form. So whilst making a worm that can be printed (with a 45 degree tooth profile) is easy, designing a worm gear to go with it is surprisingly hard.

Here is my first attempt, with a (slightly) enveloping gear to fit the worm.
The worm just has an 8mm hole down the center, the gear is designed to fit an M6 hex bolt.

Updated:
I've added a new wheel that when used with the existing worm will function as a 'wormiod' or skew axis, worm drive. Its a bit rough, but the second wheel looked nearly as bad but printed and works just fine.

An attempt to generate a brilliant cut diamond shape based on info describing an ideal cut from folds.net/diamond_design/index.html
For something more easy to digest, have a look here secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Brilliant_%28diamond_cut%29#Facet_proportions_and_names

Warning: This is just a simplified approximation of a brilliant cut, I am not a jeweller, but this should give you a good idea of size, shape and proportion. Most likely this shape will not print well without well calibrated support.

My code numbering scheme is as follows
Version_number < 1.0 not ready to be used by others
Version_number ==1.0 ready to be used provided you really know what you're doing
Version_number > 1.0 generally safe for use

To do:
- adjust the ratios for the extra 24 facets on top
- add ability to scale or specify a variable e.g. use provides height or diameter or carat weight
- Clean up code!
- Make printable

Changes:
0.4
- discovered relationship between circumscribed circle radii for 8 & 16 sided polygons needed for creating perfect facets along crown and pavillion is SinA+CosATanA where A=(360/16)/2=11.25
- second attempt to add 16 extra facets to crown and pavillion, using above relationship, more successful than previous attempt
- first attempt to add 8 extra facets to crown successful, using above relationship

0.3
- first attempt to add 16 extra facets to crown and pavillion, somewhat unsuccessful

0.2
- attempt to add 8 extra facets to crown and pavillion

0.1
- First attempt with 8 (9) faceted crown and pavillion on either side of cylindrical girdle

Show how much you love your garden, wear your tools with pride on the end of your pocketful of pens.

inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:9603

Heart Bracelet

This item uses the Bezier Heart by WilliamAAdams thingiverse.com/thing:8483

This is parametrized Box model. It can be adaped to your wishes by changing the parameters like height, diameter, screwing angle, grip height, and curve parameters. In case you just want a screwable jewellery box I included 3 versions of the box as stl files.

I've been starting to print raftless, but I was having a terrible time adjusting the M3 nuts on my HBP to get it level and flat. My needle nose pliers don't fit in my ToM well and I didn't want to keep taking the X platform off just to make small adjustments. I was about to search Amazon to find a small wrench when I realized I could make my own!

The file is parametric. Fill in the width of your nut (the STL file is set for an M3), the thickness (the wrench will be 20% thicker) and you'll get a nice wrench.

For bonus fun, you can set the size smaller and the wrench comes out pretty cute. If you set the nut diameter to something like 4.2 (which I did by accident) it looks great but is still pretty tiny.

This is a small plane, with the wing frame printed and the body being a thing wooden stick.

The model has been inspired from 4p8.com/eric.brasseur/glider2.html

It does fly :-)

I made this in three parts so the overhangs would print. The top and bottom are stepped rather than curved so that I could better control how it printed on my printer.

Have added a middle with a hole in to use less plastic.

Update 04/07 : Just upload an fully monted picture and my work file with all the SolidWorks Files.

Hi,
Here is my second version [truly printable] of the 3D printed pinhole box !

On the picture of 3D printed part it's all the test and fail print I do before I have an good one, the final parts are on the front.

The pictures are my first test film, taken with this printed box.


Sorry for the short description, I haven't time for the moment to write an real instruction notice.

Print all the part, bobine two time.
Build your own pinhole or buy one.
I buy mine at stenocamera.fr (use 0.26mm pinhole) but you can easy buid your own, there is a lot of tutorial on the web.
Glue your pinhole on the center of the BotierB part.
Glue some dark fabric on all the part that will be in contact with film, and on the inside of boitierA et boitierB, the top of Bobine et under the Bouchon.
Fix an hexagonal screwdriver head on the bouton part for pull the film.
When it's done you can assemble all piece with ruber band.
(sorry I haven't picture fully assembled, I lend my copy of it for summer before take some...)

You can use this pinhole box with both film or photographic paper
For the expose time you can use this little sofware for conversion : pinhole.cz/en/pinholedesigner/

For the rest your alone, I'll work on a true description with pictures and an real corected english on in september.
I'll upload the design file (SolidWorks) as soon as I can.


If you have some questions do not hesitate to ask.


For commercial use please ask me before.

A tiny toy dump truck, no assembly required.

Captive wheels and dump box.

Inspired by toy tanker truck by jag thingiverse.com/thing:5273

The picture shows the series of intermediate designs.

My son (see thing thingiverse.com/thing:8845) lost my fathers key for the outdoor watering tap. I learned about it yesterday, and by chance, thing thingiverse.com/thing:9636 had just been uploaded. However, I didn't like the handle in that design, because it didn't look at all like the original key.

I therefore made my own adjustments to the file, so that the model looked a lot more like my imagination of the original part. I also added some embossed text ("Water" and "From Viktor") to the handle just to show off. Uploaded the model I gave away, and a clean one if you can keep the purpose of your keys in your head.

SCAD-file is not parametric, but it´s quiet obvious what to change if you have other dimensions than me.

I know this is a kind of derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:9636 , but I don´t know how to make this apparent.

The 27 Spidersaur STL parts organized into just 5 printing plates. You'll need to print plates 2 and 3 twice each, all other plates once. The plates are all sized for printing within a 90x90 build area. The parts are totally centered, so you can feel free to scale it up or down as big or little as you need.

Since a lot of people were saying their copies were very loose and needed glue, I've made the STL plates 18% thicker than the originals. (You can see this in the SCAD file.) My parts slide/snap together VERY well and tightly, with no wiggle. Some of the parts are pretty close to one another, a MK6 stepper extruder or similar is probably necessary.

Thanks to Renosis and Syvwlch for their help organizing plate 5!

You can download all of the STL's or the ZIP of the printing plates. Have fun!

Update
As all thing are subjected to change and a better mouse traps to come along. One has.

thingiverse.com/thing:14747


It’s been a month since I bout my Thing-O-Matic (TOM). After the first two weeks the belt on my Automatic Build Platform (ABP) was pretty warped from all the stuff I was printing.
So I wanted to be able to place the Heat Build Platform (HBP) on it and save the belts on the ABP. But it was a pain to change them out. The few examples I did find here ether required you to cut into your brand new TOM or buy some new parts. So I made my own setup. The requirement was to stick with the original part that came with TOM and not to slice and dice any of the parts up. (Since you never know when someone else comes along with a better mouse trap}
This is the design I came up with it reuses all of the original part except a second heat platform store.makerbot.com/makerbot-thingomatic-heater-board-v1-1.html . Unless you decide to use the non-heated platform.


I have left the "work in progress" on since I think this can have some more improvements. Like something better then the clamps I used on it.

This should save on the belts on the ABP.

UpDate
If you already put one together and there are no problems with it then there is no need to print them out again.

All I did was clean up the models. I also added a derivative of the roller bearing option for thaws who need or want it.
For more info on that go to thingiverse.com/thing:8625

Use this SVG file to better understand how your drawing in Inkbot gets laid down as ink by the Eggbot on your eggs, light bulbs, or other drawing media.

This drawing is intended for use with v2.1.0 and later of the Eggbot Control extension. For prior versions of that extension, see Thing 4419.