This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, L, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
NOTE: error in script regarding L and H pulleys spotted by OSTycoon (see comments) - the script says H, but actually it is L profile.
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.

22 March 2012 - Updated for issue spotted by mfinn - see comments

Herringbone Gears for Wade 9/47

Derivate of thingiverse.com/thing:4964

Not sure how to announce this other than by uploading a 'thing'. So here is one.

Enthousiastic about OpenSCAD but somewhat frustrated by the limitations of its language, I've worked on an alternative using Javascript. It's free, completely open source, still seriously under construction, based on Evan Wallace's CSG.js library and can be used from within the Chrome browser.

Launch your Chrome browser and go to: joostn.github.com/OpenJsCad/

The benefits over openSCAD are mainly in the language itself: you can use dynamic arrays for example, and solids can be stored in variables.

UPDATE: I've added a parser for local files as well. Create your own .jscad files, go to
joostn.github.com/OpenJsCad/processfile.html to parse them into an STL file.

UPDATE 2: Here's my first real thing designed with OpenJsCad:
thingiverse.com/thing:16329

UPDATE 3: Now with interactive parameter editing! Check out:
joostn.github.com/OpenJsCad/gearsdemo.html

Syntax has been changed slightly! Solids must now be constructed in, and returned from, the main() function. Previously this was done in global scope of the script.

This MendelMax inspired printer is compact, lightweight, and totally self contained. Nothing protrudes beyond the frame. Z axis motors are mounted low, and thrust bearings carry the weight. Note that the z axis uses the aluminum extrusion for a guide, saving space and expense. The linear bearings and belt and pulley upgrades give high quality prints. All dimensions are chosen so that you can use 4 smooth rods and 2 threaded rods, plus all other parts from you mendel.
All parts are easy to print without support. The 60 W onboard power supply runs the motors and extruder heater. The heated bed used a 120 vac and a solid state relay. The extruder is very accessible. The heatsinks on the extruder are optional, but help keep thing cool when printing ABS.

See BOM and exploded veiw of X axis below

I added a pdf of an exploded frame drawing 1/19/12

Wire clips and T-slot cover for Misumi extrusions are at thingiverse.com/thing:16344

Below is a zipped archive of all the Inventor source files.

Full BOM added per several requests.

.stp files added.

See video of this printer at youtu.be/JysNv3Hi67k

UPDATE: I have added the OpenSCAD source used to generate this pulley, plus the idler for a 608Z bearing.

Here is a printable Synchromesh drive pulley for 3.81mm pitch cable with a simple interference fit and 15 grooves. I'm using this on my printers with results just as good a the purchased commercial pulleys. Here's a video:

youtu.be/woZara2NKUc

If you're not familiar with Synchromesh Cable see my other thing:

thingiverse.com/thing:15923

In the future I plan to release a version with a set screw or clamp etc. So far this hasn't slipped for me and I've been printing non-stop for several hours with it.

This is an idler pulley for using Synchromesh Cable from SDP/SI ( sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=84751&GroupID=768 ) in place of belts for linear motion on RepRap style printers. You can see a video of my Prusa printing with these cables here:

youtu.be/0GMzYMI6rf8

Using this cable and non-printed pulleys gives zero backlash for me and is a nice upgrade from T5 or XL belts. It's also fairly cheap and very lightweight.

Paste extruder based on the Moineau pump principle.

The pump geometry is based on thingiverse.com/thing:7958

Should work as a plug-in replacement for a hot plastic extruder in a 3D printer. However, I have NOT used this to actually print anything. I'm just publishing it in case someone else wants to try it out. (I think it's ready for printing a very small pizza without toppings, but beyond that I cannot say.)

Almost everything is parametrized and adjustable from the SCAD file. However, the resulting design should be evaluated to see if it is still sane after adjustment, since not all of the features are automatically calculated. Particularly the flange and driveshaft diameters must be adjusted by hand to match the other measurements.

See it in action: youtu.be/OHQiKuQvuEU

Note: obviously it is impossible to build an object from material that flows on it's own - the object would not hold it's shape. So in practice the material has to either be pulled into the extruder by a negative pressure (impossible with PLA printed pump parts) or pushed into the extruder by a positive pressure. In either case the motor axle has to be sealed, or it would either relieve the negative pressure or allow the material to flow up and out from the inlet block.

This is a vacuum pick-and-place head design for automated electronic assembly. It features a stepper-driven rotary head with Luer-Lock port for interchangeable needles, and a feature for attachment of an "eyeball" style Webcam for optical placement (you can modify to support your own favorite camera). Vacuum is provided to the head via flex (fishpump) tubing.

Most of my acrylic parts have been slightly cracked but stable for a long time. However since I got an MK6 Stepper and have begun ratcheting up the speeds these cracks seem to have grown... One acrylic extruder plate broke the other day (thankfully the MK6 upgrade kit came with a spare). So here are some quickly generated drop-in replacement printable .STL part files for the "Rainbow bridge" that supports the MK5/6 extruder. A more printer compatible support design could be made but the convenience of drop in replacement parts should not be over looked!

Oh, note that the largest part comes in 2 halves that lock together like jigsaw pieces. I would recommend gluing or acetoning these together.

Also, the narrow slots beneath the nut holes are for M3 washers as otherwise I feel the nut will get pulled into the plastic if you over tighten it.

To completely replace your Rainbow bridge you will need:
2x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_A.stl
2x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_B.stl
2x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_cross_brace.stl
1x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_left_foot
1x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_right_foot
1x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_top

A compact Hot-end that can be build without high-tech tools and materials.
And you don't need great engineering skills either ;)
The total length can be as small as 30mm (between top mount and nozzle)!

This is an extended Z axis for a Makerbot Cupcake using LM8UU linear bearings and 8mm rods. It currently prints to a smidge under 200mm. The idea was to design this around a stiff spine for support using as few parts as possible.

Although this works great, it is a work in progress and I plan to replace the threaded rod from the original Z axis with an Acme rod sometime in the next few weeks. Even my least wobbly threaded rod is so wobbly that it still has an effect!

This tool splits your 10mm wide belts into two 5mm belts.

i wanted something to put my printer in so i build it a flightcase
things i wanted:
- it had to look cool, so no square box
- it had to be able to print, both open and closed
- L shaped, so i could add a spool holder
- windows to see it print
- less than 1/2 sheet wood (flightcase wood is very expensive, and most vendors will sell you a 4ft by 4ft sheet)

all in all, flightcases aren't cheap, and mine came out at 180€ with everything
there are 2 good flightcase suppliers (adam hall and penn) about 98% of all flightcases i see at my job are from one or the other
on this one i used adam hall material, so i'll provide you a part list from them

With the greater spread of high detail DIY 3d printers, here is a model to be printed with as thin layer height as possible to get high quality , high poly sculpture.

(actual pics are a 3d print in Stainless steel)

My downloadable design files:
ponoko.com/showroom/Dizingof

So I got into doing Renaissance acting this year and got to thinking, what would it be like if you had a real life dragon? Here is as far as I've gotten so far with that thought, the eventual plan is to make this dragon attonomous, but at the moment he is controlled with duel sliding joysticks that control the height and rotation of his head, how wide his wings are spread and the angle of the wings (I'll add in controls for the tail later). The joysticks will eventually be replaced with IR sensors and an accelerometer, but I'm still working on those baby steps.

The model does use a derivative of the dragon head: thingiverse.com/thing:1466

Any help with the programming would be greatly appreciated.

This set of parts adds a fume hood to your Cupcake CNC that's meant to be used along with the Cupcake "oven" covers:
thingiverse.com/thing:13937

There are holes for the filament feed, Z-rod access (for both left and right handed user), and a 3" port that you can hook up to the air handling solution of your choice (maybe this? thingiverse.com/thing:7152). It sets on the top bolts of the Cupcake for easy installation an removal.

More pics here:
flickr.com/photos/builttospec/6103855648/in/photostream

The local RC airplane club that I belong to wanted a way to attach a bomb to an airplane and drop it on a target. We will use these as part of a compatition at our fun flys.

Just in time for Holiday Season – an ideal Christmas Gift for the university students in your life!

Game play:
...
Player 1: B4
Player 2: Hit! (Glug, glug, glug) ... C7
Player 1: Miss! ... B5
Player 2: Hit – you sank my Destroyer! (Glug, glug, glug) ... D4
...
(Well, I’m sure you get the gist by now.)

These designs were made for a friend who was sent an e-mail of a drinking game which has been doing the rounds lately: motifake.com/image/demotivational-poster/1011/battleshots-fun-games-demotivational-poster-1289595810.jpg

The ship designs were created in Alibre Personal, for a cheap plastic disposable shot glass (28 mm base diameter; 41 mm top diameter; 41 mm high; to be played on a 48 mm x 48 mm grid). The models are parametric, so can be easily edited for different governing dimensions; but sorry, I am not clever enough to do this sort of modelling as parametric models on OpenSCAD. For alternative sized glasses, if you don’t have access to Alibre, you could just scale the STL files, or model something similar yourself using OpenSCAD, or other CAD software of your choice.

The models are hollow shells without a bottom (to save material), and should be able to print OK without internal support, as long as you have “bridging” working OK.

[Edit: On reflection, I think you will probably need external support for the Aircraft Carrier models, because of the overhanging "flight deck".]

Note that the 4-shotglass Battleship (212.3 mm long) and the 5-shotglass Aircraft Carrier (264.5 mm long) are too big to be printed on my Prusa Mendel, but I have included them for anyone who has a bigger print bed (or wants to scale them down for a smaller shotglass). The 4-shotglass Battleship will however fit when printed at 45-degree orientation (159.2 mm x 159.2 mm). The 4-shotglass Small Aircraft Carrier is there because – well, every Navy has to have at least ONE aircraft carrier (to be the flagship!)

Feeling frivolous today. I decided to have some fun with my 3d printer. Printed in kitten size.
The zip file is Solidworks files.

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

I recently upgraded my extruder and I needed a straw to assist with the calibration. I couldn't find one so I made this, which worked great.

An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

This file contains all parts needed to create one set of cuffs. Beware that it took me over 3 hours to generate gcode for this file with Skeinforge.

Nanode - A Network Application Node.

Nanode is like an Arduino but with ethernet/web connectivity.

It also supports easy to use wireless and wired networks.

It has been developed as a low cost tool to allow simple sensor networks to be developed.

It's the perfect platform for smart sensors, home automation, monitoring and control.

It's through hole construction and the use of socketed DIP ICs makes it easy to build for the home constructor.

It's been competetively priced so that it costs about the same as an Arduino (roughly $30 US, or £18).

Without the ethernet parts it's sub $20 and can be used as a low cost Arduino "work-alike". It's compatible with most Arduino shields.

It has some key advantages over the basic Arduino:

1. Built in ethernet controller
2. Unique MAC address ID
3. Supports external EEPROM/FRAM/SRAM/Flash device for increased data storage
4. Supports a simple wireless transceiver shield from Jee Labs.
5. Supports a local multi-drop serial bus for wired networks of Master/Slaves
6. Breadboard friendly I/O connectors bring all I/O out on a 0.1" pitch




This is the productionised version of the Nanode for the London Hackspace.

It's very much updated and includes a whole lot of new features.

1. SPI serial memory either SRAM, FRAM or EE for storing data and web pages,

2. Microchip MAC chip so that it has a unique MAC address.

3. Wireless Connectivity - plug a Jee Labs RFM12B module straight in to give a bi-directional wireless link.

4.Moves the reset switch to where you can get at it - side actuated

5. Moves the LED to where you can see it.

6.Improved connector for local power/comms bus with 4 pin screw terminal block. Makes for simple interconnection with 4 way telephone cable.

7. Adds the London Hackspace Logo, Pachube Logo and Arbour Wood Ltd details.

8. Adds Auto-reset (from FTDI cable).

9. Adds Virtual USB Vusb (Like Metaboard) for programming obdev.at/products/vusb/index.html
metalab.at/wiki/Metaboard

A tool to convert PNG images into 3D models. It currently exports models in STL and OpenSCAD formats and has a variety of parameters to control the output.

It has several kyllikki.github.com/png23d/examples.html examples and good kyllikki.github.com/png23d/ documentation.

The Images and files I have provided here are from the tools examples and are just scratching the surface of what can be achieved.

At last, here is the much-requested 100% printable heart gears. No more ugly bolt holes! This was designed along the same lines as the screwless cube gears: thingiverse.com/thing:10483, and in fact uses the exact same center block (though the pins are slightly shorter).

UPDATE: If you lack a 3D printer, you can now buy these from CarryTheWhat at etsy.com/shop/CarryTheWhat.

The size has been increased a bit from the previous version to accommodate the printed pins, so it now measures 100mm across when assembled. Since everything is now printable, it should be easy to scale this design up or down as you see fit. At this size it took me ~6 hours of printing time on my TOM.

A motorized version of Emmetts' Cube Gears.
I built it (Emmett's that is) and was showing it around work. One of my favorite collaborators (Brian C.) and I were discussing motorizing it. I had visions of a tiny motor in the center, and was fussing over battery size, etc. when Brian suggested blowing a hole through one of the big corners and connecting a drive shaft to the center to an external motor. A quick look on Ebay found a motor, and when it came in the mail I started in on the design. I designed the parts in Alibre, sorry, OpenSCAD is a very impressive tool, but I am too CAD oriented). I did import the stl of the gear into Alibre. The zip file has the Alibre files and STEP AP203 exports as well.

Thank you, all of you who've made cube gears and posted pictures. Since tbuser made these lovely pin connectors, thingiverse.com/thing:10288, I figured it was high time to make a fully printable cube gear set. Now you needn't bother buying any more screws: this one snaps together.

UPDATE: For anyone without access to a 3D printer, you can now buy these from caesia on her Etsy store: etsy.com/shop/PlasticFusion

UPDATE: New version uses tbuser's new pin connectors V2: thingiverse.com/thing:10541, is much stronger, and prints right-side-up. This is practice for making a heart-gear version.

This design also incorporates a couple of tricks that others may find useful. The center block has two very narrow slices through it, which cause interior walls to form, which help keep the tops of the holes from sagging during printing. Likewise, a cylinder is cut out of the interior of the gears, which serves two purposes. First, it makes a strong internal support for the pin. Second, it makes for less stringing between parts when you print four gears at once, because Skeinforge makes the head go from the center of one to the center of the other, so that the perimeters wipe off the nozzle.

UPDATE: By popular demand, a new version of the center block has been uploaded (BcenterFlat.stl), which doesn't have any internal slits and is oriented to print on a large face. This one is significantly easier to print, though the top and bottom holes do end up a touch tighter than the rest.

Want to upgrade to LM8UUs in the future? Don't have any now? Don't want to print a heap of new parts when you do?

Printable LM8UU-sized PLA bushing!

These are sized to be a little tight fresh off the bed, but due to their design they wear in quickly - about 15 seconds of pushing up and down a smooth rod for me.

If your printer makes them too tight or too loose, just adjust the ID in the scad file.

Scad is fully parametric, should be able to make LM10UU or any other size if you wish.

Turn your Dremel into a blower or vacuum. It works really well!

.75" ID output port, 2.15" inlet. Inlet bolt circle is 2.438" in diameter, and is for 6 4-40 bolts.

Printed on a Fablicator!
fablicator.com

EDIT: The Impeller I believe is backwards. It still works very well, though. I'm going to re-print a mirrored version to see if it makes any difference.

EDIT2: The impeller works about the same despite being right or left handed. go figure.