The Black Goat of the Woods with a Thousand Young... well, still very young this one. It's Hello-Niggurath with two faces.

This is the latest in a set of pieces designed to be a desktop figures or re-sized to be a suitable replacement for simple pawns in your favorite board games. Print off a whole set to add a touch of madness to any game.

I don't have a 3D printer so I need your help and support with this and my other designs. Please check out my profile to see what I've made.

I got tired of having to search around for my markers all the time. Holds 3 Expo dry erase markers. And had a flat back so it can be adhered easily to a surface.

This MendelMax inspired printer is compact, lightweight, and totally self contained. Nothing protrudes beyond the frame. Z axis motors are mounted low, and thrust bearings carry the weight. Note that the z axis uses the aluminum extrusion for a guide, saving space and expense. The linear bearings and belt and pulley upgrades give high quality prints. All dimensions are chosen so that you can use 4 smooth rods and 2 threaded rods, plus all other parts from you mendel.
All parts are easy to print without support. The 60 W onboard power supply runs the motors and extruder heater. The heated bed used a 120 vac and a solid state relay. The extruder is very accessible. The heatsinks on the extruder are optional, but help keep thing cool when printing ABS.

The extruder is at thingiverse.com/thing:16143

See BOM and exploded veiw of X axis below

I added a pdf of an exploded frame drawing 1/19/12

Wire clips and T-slot cover for Misumi extrusions are at thingiverse.com/thing:16344

Below is a zipped archive of all the Inventor source files.

New pdf exploded printer drawing below. 1/27/12

Check out the animated assembly at the bottom of the downloads. A few things are out of sequence and it's low res, but may be useful.

Redesign of the reprap Huxley, inspired by the Prusa Mendel, but with some significant differences.

Key features:
- Small footprint
- 140x140x100mm build volume
- 1.73mm bowden fed filament
- Resistor heater block hot end
- Milled Aluminium, nichrome heated bed
- Single board Arduino motherboard

Design files can be found here: github.com/emaker/Huxley

Here by popular request, is the venerable Gothic Cathedral Playset as a single object. Sized suitably for printing on a Replicator build platform.

Its smaller than the original. But with that same crunchy medieval flavour. For extra fun, try printing in PLA.

Singly connected. Every pair of points can be used as start and goal.

A marble maze made from wood (1.1" x 0.20" Pine).

Tri-Track robot chassis is based on Sublime 100mm wheel base track system. This design incorporates dual servo motors that are mounted above the chassis. This design allows for mounting a robot body or arm between the tracks. The battery pack and electronics will be moved as the design progresses.
Frame has been significantly strengthened to accommodate for the added stresses and to increase weight capacity.

UPDATE

12-20-11
Added platform base for mounting robot body or arm.

12/21-11 Added additional files

1-08-12
Rendered BaseLeft and BaseRight in two pieces, this enables them to be printed on a MakerBot. The two piece files are: BaseleftP1, BaseleftP2, BaserightP1, BaserightP2

There are errors in the Tri-Track Frame file. This fils is still printable. We are working on correcting errors.

1-12-12
Redesigned and added New Tri-Track Frame for Solid Axle construction. File Name: Tri-Track Frame For Solid Axle v1

Short video of Tri-Track in motion:

youtu.be/KcNyt-GK2NU

My plan is to build a two armed robot around this motorized platform.

CREDIT

Original Track design by Olalla
See thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Servo Mount is by Hoeken. thingiverse.com/thing:5165 This is printed horizontally for strength.

This is a box for Mitch Altman's Brain Machine. I liked the kit, but thought that it really needs something to keep all the exposed parts safe from being bumped when not in use.


Design:

The waves on the top of the box are examples of brain waves. From the most noisy to least they are Beta, Alpha, Theta and Delta. The order is the rough progression that the brain machine takes from wakefullness to rest.

The blobs were hatched using the EggBot hatching tool for inkscape, very handy.

The zener cards are just for fun. Sadly arduino based projects do confer psychic powers.


Sources:

A few of the elements I got from open source SVGs floating around.
Zener cards:
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e0/Cartas_Zener.svg
Brain wave examples:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroencephalography
Brain Note:
openclipart.org/detail/19500/monstara_Brain_Notes
G-clef:
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/ff/GClef.svg
60-hexagon spiral:
openclipart.org/detail/148501/60-hexagon-spiral-by-10binary

The base box design was generated here: (Check it out, well worth the $12)
frag-den-spatz.de/shop/boxgenerator/boxdesigner.html

The SVG had some artifacts when loaded into inkscape. There were diagonal lines in oddd places that had to be removed. Some of the ports still have duplicate cuts, which cause quite a bit of burning.

Additionally, my epilog driver uses #FF0000 for vector cuts, so I replaced the edges in the SVG with red thin lines.

The numbers are not cut out. This needs to be fixed.

AT my day job - there is a Small kitchenette - and this Paper Towel is always on the counter in front of the things you want to get at (like the microwave). And I found that particularly annoying. And, since the co. would not cough up the expense to buy a paper towel holder - I figured this would be the FIRST thing that I would make with my Bot. And, as such - its the one product design of mine that is actually IN USE!

Its been in use (as shown in the picture) for a couple months now. Although - the 1st version - I sold it to one of my coworkers - as that one was a little nicer with a red logo on it - as printed on the Bot. So - this one in the picture was the replacement.

I tried unsuccessfully to properly print out the rockets that were here on thingiverse, so my son and I designed our own in solidworks. I think it was mostly due to learning the limitations of our TOM, and not a problem with the existing designs. You will notice that this is a "all at once" print, where you print the fins, tubes and nose cone all at the same time. There are connecting ribs between the parts so that the fin section will stabilize the other tall thin parts - you'll notice in one of the pictures that the print failed near the end when the tall skinny tubes were tilting around on the ABP conveyor belt.
It is currently just a simple design, but I hope to design a version that will include a mount for a "Spy-pen" camera to take video, and possibly one that will launch gliders when the nosecone is ejected, perhaps a propeller retrieval option for the nosecone - and any other wild ideas my 4 & 7 year olds come up with...
This was printed on a Thing-O-Matic, with a MK6 extruder, ABP (which made the first attempt unstable), the layer height is .35mm, feedrate of 30, and we used white ABS so the kids could color the sections with markers.

Update-
I have added a STL without the connecting ribs - just make sure you have a solid foundation - the incomplete print in the pictures was because the conveyor belt on my ABP was too "floppy" when the parts got that tall.

This is the same item as hippiegunnut's thingiverse.com/thing:12307, tweaked very slightly with an optional lid added.

My first attempt at a useful thing. I'm learning openSCAD in anticipation of receiving my printrbot+ and I thought I would make something useful. This is a parametric pillow block. At least I think its parametric... (still learning the ropes here) If you change the parameters at the beginning of the file you can change pretty much everything and get a nice customized pillow block.

you can even make it into a bushing by setting the "lip_size" to zero and increasing the "bearing_thickness".

Edit: version 0.2. I fixed a mixup between diameter and radius and added some more comments. The SCAD file is theoretically set up for a 608 skate bearing with tabs for m5 bolts.

Base on European 1 into 4 mail and inspired by building the WPFChainmailV4 by Will_NC.

I rebuild the whole file from scratch (it is about 50% the size of the WPF mail).

The SW file is arrayed so one can increase/decrease the ring count as one wants. Though you;ll have to make sure the STL resolution is low else SW locks up if there are too many ring (or mine does anyway).

Mega Man cookie cutter! Not much else to say about it. My favorite 8-bit pose of the series.

This is the LED ornament topper that was a collaboration between CCCKC Hackerspace and Hammerspace Hobby & Community Toolshop (our new home) in Kansas City. It is a fun, quick 4 soldering point ornament insert. The LED cycles between several colors and modes with each on and off cycle. We decided to keep it awesome by printing the body and using only two components (LED and battery holder) and copper wire to extend the leads to create the ornament hanger and integrated switch!

We created this holiday-themed project as a fun way to create a gift and learn to solder at the same time! We hope you enjoy it and please customize it! It is a blank canvas and ripe to become many different characters and uses. One thought is to NOT trim one of the copper leads and have two swirls at the top, tapping those together to become a switch. Slap some googly eyes and BAM, reindeer! And don't forget Hanukkah! Turn these upside down and make a Menorah with 9 prints. You get the idea. Let those derivatives fly and feel free to improve it!

I used Autocad 123d - 123dapp.com mainly to learn this program a little more, try it, you might like it!

Cowtown Computer Congress of Kansas City - C3KC.org

Hammerspace Hobby & Community Toolshop - hammerspacehobby.com

NOTE: We specified two different LED's to choose from. Radioshack has an LED in store that works but we ordered ours from microelect.net/ over the phone. Yeah, over the phone!

This is the better version of the one that I was going to make. First version had a tile for each number. For this version a slider is placed over the numbers to show the right numbers in that month.

The font I used this project is Daisy by Richard William Mueller

dafont.com/daisy-regular.font

Craig thingiverse.com/builttospec cut the wood for me with his laser cutter.

It's very important to let others know the hazards of operating dangerous equipment, especially automated equipment, and especially when specialized safety equipment may be necessary. This warning label lets people know to be careful around your laser cutter, lest they be blinded by awesome.

The Klann Lego Spider is a LEGO compatible prototype of the Klann linkage (see mechanicalspider.com).

Video clips of the spider are available at:
youtube.com/watch?v=Bl_5wCbvxMU and
youtube.com/watch?v=hz4mflE2foM

Update to v1.1 at:
tinyurl.com/y8lhcr3

The legs for the vehicle were milled from 3/8" plastic sheet stock. All the rest of the components are from LEGO Mindstorms (see tinyurl.com/6nj6w), which we use to introduce first year students to robotic concepts.

The project evolved somewhat during the build, as can be seen in the videos and pictures. The turning video shows a simple timed turn where the vehicle moves forward for five seconds, reverses the direction of the left legs for five seconds, then moves both sides forward again for five seconds. The forward motion video shows a skinny version of the vehicle that had to be widened when turning was added, since the skinny version simply fell over on its side instead of making a turn.

Nothing to see here. You really want version 3: thingiverse.com/thing:8252 (although this is still a good reference for the benefits of the accessible aspects.

**Version 2 now uploaded**. Generate STLs from the version 2 scad to get the version 2 changes. NOTE: To do this you must have configuration.scad from the prusa git repo in the same directory as gregs-wade-v2.scad so that bolt and nut sizes defined in that file can be used.

This is an extruder based strongly on the wades from the Prusa git repo. It has several features over the standard wade:

1. Accessible hobbing. If you strip the filament, there is no need to disassemble in any way (such as removing the idler/filament or bolt) in order to remove the stripped plastic from the hobbing. You can get a needle in the hole in the top and scrape it out.

2. The motor can be removed without removing the large gear. The three mounting screws can be accessed without removing the gear. 2 of them are clearly accessible and the other is accessible through a hole in the gear.

3. Slightly higher gear ratio than standard wade. This design uses 43:10 instead of 37:11.

4. The rotated motor mount means that the carriage attachment screw is accessible with the motor installed.

5. The rotated motor mount also means that the clearance past the idler attachment captive nuts is a bit longer, so you have a bit more play tensioning the idler.

6. The motor is far enough back from the face that the small gear can be mounted with the hub towards the motor (necessary with short shafted motors) and it will mesh with the large gear when there is only 1 washer between the bearing and the large gear.

7. The large gear has a shallow nut trap so that locking halfnuts can be used with hobbed threaded rod (infinitely adjustable hob alignment) rather than a bolt.

8. The motor mount screws are recessed allowing the large gear to be almost against the face of the extruder body.

9. It has sexy curves.

Things I still plan to do:
Add some options to the way the small gear mounts on the shaft. I have always had problems getting that right (hence thingiverse.com/thing:5213).

Version 2 Changes:
* Added the 4th idler screw hole.
* Moved the top captive nuts for the idler screws closer to the idler so that you can screw the idler bolts in further
* Made the motor mount slots go a further 1mm away from the hobbed bolt (as requested by spacexula)
* Added the framework for hotend mount supports (I still need people to tell me what their particular hotend mounting needs are). Each hotend defines its holes assuming that the extruder block is sitting vertical with the filament exit hole at [0,0,0]).

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

ALREADY PUBLISHED THE NEW VERSION PRUSA AIR 2 AT thingiverse.com/thing:14204

Since I discovered the RepRap project I was surprised how much knowledge could be stored in an Internet community. I was impressed as a practical invention was able to born and grow in the network through the collaboration of specialists in various fields such as mechanics, electronics, computers ... all around the world.

In the mechanical field, It was a revolution when Josef Prusa got dramatically simplify the construction of a RepRap Mendel, current resulting Prusa, that has become a standard in building a RepRap. This also achieved make it much easier a person to be able to build a 3D printer.

The Prusa Air drinks from this spirit and tries to give a twist to the construction of a 3D printer. Its design is based on three basic principles:

1) To simplify the manufacturing and assembly (KISS principle).
2) Designing parts the cheapest way to be able to meet the requirements.
3) A little beauty.

With these guidelines, the use of RP parts is reduced for "commercial" pieces but always bearing in mind that they were readily available worldwide.

The changes are basically:

A) Most of the frame rods and RP pieces has been replaced by three pieces of acrylic embedded between them. They have followed all the design dimensions of Prusa, so for size, trips, electronics, firmwares... it works as a Prusa.

B) One of the sides of the typical Mendel triangle has been removed, resulting in a work area more accessible.

C) The holes for the rods have been changed so that the rods can be removed without having to completely unscrew the nuts.

D) The X and Z axis haven’t changed, they are exactly the same of a Mendel Prusa, the Y axis, as the guides are placed in the same way, you can choose to place a traditional Y-axis or mount a Y-axis with integrated heated platform like this: thingiverse.com/thing:11657.

All the infographics was made by Pikelo with Cinema 4D + Vray.

There is a wiki page writen in Spanish: reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire

If you're trying to throw together a Botmobile or similar RC setup on the cheap, you can make your own brushed DC speed controller out of the guts of an old servo. I modified the guts out of a Hobby King TGY-S4505B servo for Thingiverse user Luis to use with his Botmobile and turtle shell racer (seen here).

The local RC airplane club that I belong to wanted a way to attach a bomb to an airplane and drop it on a target. We will use these as part of a compatition at our fun flys.

Feeling frivolous today. I decided to have some fun with my 3d printer. Printed in kitten size.
The zip file is Solidworks files.

Here's everything you need to convert a standard 7" hamster ball into a radio controlled (or potentially autonomous) ball of fury. I've also included plans for a simple stand for the thing so it doesn't roll away when not in use.

Video of the mechanics in operation:
youtu.be/-h-q-IdnQ3M

Videos of people driving them:
youtu.be/nPqL2h55Tgc
youtu.be/6X15eBpUSGU

An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

The MK7 released and I was like, huh, why get rid of the 3mm filament? I have about 20LBs of the stuff and I want to keep using it. Wouldn't it be nice to be able to do dual extrusion with 3mm filament? The next day, Makerbot put the MK6 pluses on sale. Sometimes fortune smiles...

Here is my take on a Dual MK6 plus extruder.

Here are some salient points:

Nozzle spacing of 20mm (the smaller the spacing, the larger the build space you have left that is covered by both nozzles)
Bearing idler wheels
Fits through the upper opening on the cupcake
No springs needed for tensioning
No screw plunger to have release on you in the middle of a print.

NOTE:
You will need to drill a new metal retainer plate.

Video is up: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/6273051824/ You too can hear me sound like a dork.

NEXT STEPS:

Until I get my second EC I can't see what is going on with temperature migration across the heads, there is insulation between them but I'm not sure. The reason I care is because PVA has a lower melt temp than ABS.

This is a prototype animatronic tail, OpenScan designed 3D printed on a 3D printer and controlled by Arduino.

This is a small test:
youtube.com/watch?v=d1k9p1P4s8I

I attached in a text document the code that use to control the servo with arduino.

Uses the number of vertebrae that want, i use 10 plus the final. I put a rubber cord in the side holes to keep the tail as, in the other holes, i put a normal string attached to the wheel. And so that the rope does not slip from the wheel put some small aluminum rings.

I hope you like ;)