i wanted something to put my printer in so i build it a flightcase
things i wanted:
- it had to look cool, so no square box
- it had to be able to print, both open and closed
- L shaped, so i could add a spool holder
- windows to see it print
- less than 1/2 sheet wood (flightcase wood is very expensive, and most vendors will sell you a 4ft by 4ft sheet)

all in all, flightcases aren't cheap, and mine came out at 180€ with everything
there are 2 good flightcase suppliers (adam hall and penn) about 98% of all flightcases i see at my job are from one or the other
on this one i used adam hall material, so i'll provide you a part list from them

This is an extended Z axis for a Makerbot Cupcake using LM8UU linear bearings and 8mm rods. It currently prints to a smidge under 200mm. The idea was to design this around a stiff spine for support using as few parts as possible.

Although this works great, it is a work in progress and I plan to replace the threaded rod from the original Z axis with an Acme rod sometime in the next few weeks. Even my least wobbly threaded rod is so wobbly that it still has an effect!

Fresh revisions of the firmwares explicitely deal with the Arduino internal 10K pull-ups and allow for dispensing of the external pull-ups, resistors, LEDs and endstop-pcb paraphernalia: a most welcome simplification.

Many microswitches come with a 10 mm spacing between M2 holes. The Prusa Mendel endstop holders feature a different spacing & hole size. Fear not! editing the parametric file is straightforward, and for expediency here is also the stl file.

Note: All due credit must be given to Adrian's Prusa Notes reprap.org/wiki/Adrians_Prusa_Notes : he deals with 9.5mm spacing and M2.5 holes. My mod was independent of his.

I adopted lever-less microswithces, they supposedly allow for better repeatability.

This is the best, most practical, and simplest filament manager I've seen or used for a Prusa Mendel. It gets the filament reels out of the way into "unused" space above the printer, allows you to stage two reels for easy switching back and forth, and makes it simple to change reels and to see how much filament is left. When printing, the filament itself is in free air between the reel and the extruder head so there are no jams or problems.

Holds from 1lb to 5lb standard filament reels.

We built the narwhal from the famous weebl narwhal song. It's rough, but it's pretty close to the video. If you don't know what we're talking about look it up. It'll make you smile.

I present to you, the RepRap tie!

Update 12.30.2011: Added minecraft stl one one 20x20cm build plate and individual pieces in zip file. Yet untested! Don't know how well the holes will print when laying flat, please leave feedback if you try.

Update 12.30.2011: Added a stl file of a tie made from a stl file. Check out tie_stl.zip for source code. Not yet printed!

For years people have made ties out of wood, and I adopted the principle for 3d printing. Could it be a world first?

The basic idea is to take a 3d model, cut holes in it for string and then cut it into smaller pieces so the tie will bend.

I'm not overly satisfied with how the ties sits around the neck, perhaps someone has an idea for a better solution?

Also, any special ideas for a tie, just make a comment and I'll give it a go. :)

This cover snaps on to shield the terminals on the large switching power supplies (anyone know a classification name for the this PS case type?)

The open terminals on these power supplies are very dangerous. Print out a cover and snap it on so you don't turn into a crispy tart.

Licensing
-Parts and files: GPLv3
-Images: CC BY SA

Very much a work in progress! This is an odometer for filament! It should measure filament by the centimeter so you can have a real measurement for filament used! The base it attaches to slides on to the counter assembly, so you can chose different mounts for it, but the first mount is for a ToM endcap.

I'm currently printing the first set of parts to validate the design, after some tweaks, I'll upload the first working design to share and build from!

The next version will have a second resettable counter. I will also provide just the counter mechanism as a separate "thing" once I make sure everything works okay.

This allows an AppleTV 2 to be mounted on the back of a TV using the 100mm VESA mount.

I designed and printed it using 0.4mm @ 0.72mm but it should print at other printer settings. I also have included support for the recessed holes.

You may have to file/sand the protruding keys on the left and right parts to get them to fit in the slots of the base neatly.

This is a parametric printable bearing with a two-piece hub that allows the tension on the balls to be adjusted. Tightening nuts against the hub pushes the balls against the outer ring to adjust for printer tolerances and so that it won't become wobbly once its worn in. The two-piece hub also makes it easier to assemble.

The script includes variables for inner diameter, outer diameter, bearing width, ball diameter, and the angle of contact between the balls and the hub/ring. It is designed to be used with vitamin bbs or round beads. All of the pictures are sized to match a 608 bearing (7mm width, 22mm diameter). The bearings are, from left to right, 6mm plastic airsoft bbs with a 3mm shaft, 4.5mm metal bbs with a 6mm shaftt, 4.5mm metal bbs with an 8mm shaft, and 3mm spherical beads with an 8mm shaft.

This is Communicator Badge as seen on Star Trek The Next Generation. I designed it based on the official resin model. The new "thick" version is slightly redesigned to be more accurate to the real prop.

I'm making extensive use of OpenSCAD. The only problem I found is that the polygon function is hard to use. I rather draw my polygons visual. So I created a simple polygon editor for OpenSCAD in Javascript+HTML.

Following the idea from the "OpenScad Polygon Generator" by "PieterBos" thingiverse.com/thing:9290
But then working for any OS, any browser, without fuss. You don't even need to install anything! (might even work in mobile browsers)

Online version can be found at:
daid.mine.nu/~daid/3d/
Latest sources can be found at:
github.com/daid/OpenSCAD-polygon-editor

I found that the filament guide by hbs helped a little bit but not enough. with this modification the filament ends up right where it needs to.

Source: github.com/sdevijver/reprap/tree/master/filament_guide

Does the world need another earbud holder?

Well, this one fits Apple earbuds and stores the cable neatly.

So my friend is a teacher, but I think she spends too much time grading papers and such. I designed these so she could have more free time to hang out with me.

How they work (careful, this is complicated stuff)
Die 1 - Grade: A, B, C, D, F, or No Credit
Die 2 - Plus/minus: Plus, minus, or nothing

An easy to build, small sized Hot End for 3d-printers.

UPDATE: Added improved Manifolded files (thanks Cryozap!)

A quick, printable arc reactor, similar to the one from the movie Iron Man. This reactor was designed to be quick and easy to print, and includes some home etchable electronics (Eagle Design files also included).

A more detailed post on the build process can be found here: nbitwonder.com/blog/2011/10/27/open_source_3d_printable_arc_reactor

I had very limited time in producing this build, and as such there is considerable room for improvement. A few example improvements are listed below:

1) Polar arc traces and layout for the Eagle circuit board (Nice even circular arcs would be ideal)
2) Holes/spaces for the LED slots in the ArcReactorArms.skp model
3) Snap together construction for the ArcReactorCore and ArcReactorArms models
4) Improved ArcReactorBack design (ability to put a belt through this thing instead of running bolts through a T-shirt would be a big step forward)
5) Printable spindle/spider frame structure for the arms in the arc reactor

Another feeble box of Lucky Charms cereal? No problem, create that most excellent bowl with charms in every bite with this Charms Sifter. The holes are sized to catch most charms, you should be able to sift > 90% of them.

Please note: Diabetic supplies not included.

Just a little prop I worked up. Maybe someone else can make it useful for actually closing a bottle. Meanwhile, you may want to pin it to your coat to remind yourself how adventurous you are.

thing:3202 is awesome, but the belt rubs against the carriage, so thing derivative is an attempt to fix that.

The latest version of the openscad files and STLs is available from gitorious.org/hacks/things/trees/master/makerbot-y-stage

Movie of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=IdUrudecH2Y

20101004 update: Moved vertical bearings and added more strengthening

This is for a aprox. 4ft by 3ft printer based on the Ultimaker. It has not been made yet and it a thing in progress. It is set up for 4 extruders and also the files have a 2nd normal sized Ultimaker added because there was extra room. (added bonus!!)
You can follow our progress on my sons Blog rep-up.com you can blame him this was his idea. I hope this will make a nice piece of furniture and I need to figure out a way for my wife to allow it to..

Also any comments, ideas, hate mail, love notes, we would love we are not planing on cutting this for a few weeks.. (hate mail goes to my son..)

I tried to redesign the X ends of Prusa Mendel to follow the reprap.org/wiki/Vertical_X_Axis_Standard

I also added an X carriage design

The belt clamp are the ones for building a standard Prusa

This is just my first 3d creation, and I'm waiting to finish my first RepRap to test this design. Meanwhile if someone prints these files and says me if there is somesthing wrong I would be very grateful =)

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

We were asked to make a good ol' American made B-17 Flying Fortress. So, here it is.

Idea submitted by Matt Goldeck to the GE Air Show at Facebook.com/GE

Here is a spooler I made for someone on #reprap. It works quite well and decided to share it.

I had an old Apple iSight camera and decided to make it useful again as a nanny-cam for my Thing-O-Matic. You can clip it to your ToM and it will give you a view of your work remotely when hooked up to a computer.

This is the starting point for another design - but figured it might be useful in case you lost the one that came with your camera.

It might fit other cameras as well, but I only have the one at the moment. If others could print and check, it'd be great!

This is an alternative Z-Stage for Makerbot/Cupcake with MK5/MK6 extruder. It's heavily inspired by MiseryBot's "MiZ Rider" ( thingiverse.com/thing:7954 ). I even copied MiseryBot's stepper motor coupler verbatim.

I was considering building MiseryBot's Z-Rider and was looking for a source for the small ball bearings. Turned out that for my neck of the world, those bearings would have been significantly more expensive than real linear bearings, so I designed this Z-Stage based on linear bearings.

As with all other solutions of this kind, it gets rid of the Z-Stage wobble. It even has a springy suspension on the threaded rod end, to dampen the last bit of wobble.

The extruder mount has an integral fan and air ducts. The airflow cools the extruder motor, the thermal barrier tube heat sink and the object being printed. It also cools the load bearing ABS parts from the inside, because I'm a little paranoid about the ABS right next to the hot end.

The achievable build height with this Z-Stage is about 150mm with the standard Cupcake build platform.

Parts recycled from original Z-Stage assembly:

    * M3 screws (M3x16, M3x12, M3x8) and nuts

    * 1 x M8 threaded rod

    * 3 x M8 nut

    * 1 x NEMA17 stepper motor

Additional parts (vitamins):

    * 2x precision rods, 8mm, >270mm long

    * 3x linear bearings, 8mm / 15mm outside, 24mm high

    * 45mm 12V fan

So I purchased an Arducopter Pre-assembled and tested, Something I rarely do. Maybe it was a subconscious action then, that within a week I had smashed it into the ground?

Now I am designing and rebuilding it, testing and learning and really enjoying it.

Some pieces survived and I had initially thought to design things as a replacement/upgrade. Now I think that would be silly to tell people to "Print these, and buy these 'special' parts", so I am making the attempt to make this frame fully DIY...

I haven't really been documenting the process, but initially it seemed there would be a slight weight savings in the carbon fiber/ABS parts vs the stock arducopter aluminum/acrylic parts.

Maybe some different construction methods could be used to increase savings?

This is very much a work in progress, but thought I'd get the idea out in order get some feedback and enable collaboration.

Inspired by the starship enterprise, posted as thing No. 8100 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8100), I converted a google 3d galery model of a romulan warbird (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c5b88c16e0091eed6208ceb8c2299bcc&prevstart=0) to a printable stl file.

Because of several overhangs, I had to cut the ship into pieces to get a printable version.
Now the ship consists of 4 parts: The left side, the right side and the 2 panels.
The size is about 100 mm x 70 mm x 2.5 mm.

The print was very good on my mendel with a layer thickness of 0.2 mm in glowing-in-the-dark PLA.
After cleaning (which is not very much work, if you set your retraction distance long enough) I glued it together.

The panels should klick into the wings - otherwise they also can be glued.

You can read more about this on: ifeelbeta.de

Live long and prosper!
BonsaiBrain